Guest Eddie W Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 You guys with the quick Eskys should really think about the Twincam/BDA type setup with the swaybar. The extra castor helps straight line stability no end and turn in is also improved. Unfortunately it means Sport guards to clear the wheels or a bit of a chop to the standard ones. The twincam bar had slightly bigger diameter but also much shorter arms that apart from increasing the castor also upped the rate a fair bit. It also had harder, double width mounts for better location. I guess these days Nolathane would serve this purpose. Although my car had the Twincam setup I used to mod the standard bar for some guys by altering the mount to pull the bar forward by 19mm and doubling up the standard rubbers. You could get the standard sized rubber in a stiffer compound and that is what we used. The MK2 has a slightly bigger dia. bar than the MK1 but with a standard length arm so it's rate was not as good as the Twincam bar. All the MK2 rally cars that I worked on had the Twincam setup. Eddie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerm Posted May 1, 2005 Share Posted May 1, 2005 so is this difficult to set up? you need to move the sway bar mounts forward and use harder bushes or nolathanes? which will increase the castor.. move the front wheels forward slightly... i have flared guards but its pretty low and only just clears... What do you reckon about strut braces? the ones the go over the engine? i thought about getting one but SAS qouted me $250! Cheers Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esky boi Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 I was just checking mine out now, looks like there would be abit of work involved in moving the sway bar mounts foward aye? Oh yea as jerm said, is it worth getting strut braces ive been told they make quite a bit of difference, like would it be noticeable on the road, or would it only make a difference if it was used for racing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atropine Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 As I think Atropine is trying to say politely, top speed is determined by horsepower not diff ratios. A stock 1300 simply doesn't have the horsepower to pull an Esky over 100mph no matter what a speedo might show. However a good modded 1300 will but not by a lot. !300s generally need a lot of revs to make decent HP and therefor a lower diff ratio will give a better chance of a higher top speed.Eddie i was more meaning that a standard 1300 redlining at 5800rpm couldnt possibly do more than say.. 140ish with standard driveline.. but yeah, horsepower is definately essential to getting that top speed.. diff ratios play a huge part though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Eddie W Posted May 2, 2005 Share Posted May 2, 2005 Yeah they do play a part but it's more a matter of matching the diff to the package, and that might be up or down. I was trying to point out to some of the guys that going from say a 3.9 or 3.7 to a 3.54 will not necessarily give them more top speed unless the power is there to drive it. It could quite possibly give them less. Strut braces: yep I'm a fan. It is surprisingly easy to bend the towers together and I've known an adjustable bar to be used as a crude camber adjuster. A friend of mine rallied a Dat 1600 and we made an adjustable bar with LH and RH thread in the middle. You could turn it by hand and it would crank the towers together with little effort. This shows you that high cornering loads would have a similar effect. I don't know why this sort of gear costs what it does but I'm out of touch and could always make my own anyway. The swaybar bracket:This bolts off the chassis rails so it's quite easy to work on at the bench. There is a convoluted plate underneath that holds the threaded plates and makes a recess that locates the rubber. This you can either drill the spotwelds on or chisel off and move forward by 19mm and redrill for the bolt holes. We then added another strip of 2.5 to 3mm along side and duplicated the original"convoluted" plate thus doubling up the mounts. I also added extra gusseting back to where it bolts to the rails. Hope you can follow that. It is the moving forward that increases the castor with it's benefits. The doubling of the mounts ( and Nolathane would help this) gives more accurate location as the swaybar is also acting as part of the lower wishbone. Regards Eddie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 hey jerm try this Gearbox Solutions, Glendene (09)8185441 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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