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Guest mazzo

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Guest mazzo

hey peeps,

anyoine got any ideas on doin sum small mods on a mk2 esky?

ive also got a bit of rust that needs fixing and was wondering if it wud be cheaper to just buy anotha car.the rust is on the floor in the front passenger and also by the dip in the boot above the rear left wheel.

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Is it a 1.6 or a 1.3?

Try starting with:

Extractors and exhaust and a better carb (weber). Should help things a bit.

Someone else should know which kind of carb would be best to use.

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you say its near the wheel well? well i had no wheel well.. more a wheel hole :D .... but nah thats not much to fix i don't think if its not to bad post a pic if you can... and front passenger shouldn't be to bad either... if you get a panel beater to do it... pull all the carpet back and take the seat out if you need to .. it saves them time that you don't have to pay for...

yeah extractors and a weber will be sweet ... carby might just cost a little bit if you get it reconditioned and tuned by someone.... alot of the eskies came with twin throat webers so a carb and manifold shouldn't be relatively easy to find..

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Guest escort_boy
a little bit off topic here but see that little metal ledge in the bottom left corner with the rubber seal going up the side, you no that little plastic panel that goes there, i dont no how to get it sitting perfect its a bitch!

is that the panel by ur feet on teh passengers side?? cause if it is, i foundif there is stuff behind it it will not site properly

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its hard to tell how much is affected alot of it could be surface shit... get it looked at though and pull all the seals off around the door sills.. i found rust there where the two pieces of metal meat at a seam wels under the rubber

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Guest mazzo

well i was reading in sum of th oha forums that it myt be gud to put 1300 pistons n a 1300 head on a 1600 engine.is this gud or not? aparently it makes higha compression

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Comming from an 'i don't know shit all about esky engines' perspective, I'd say that dropping a 1300 head on a 1600 should raise the compression, might not even need to use the 1300 pistons. Although, don't take that as advice, best you hear it from someone who knows.

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  • 3 months later...
Guest R3DSKN

one of my previous eskies was in the same condition as yours, i was 15 at the time and knowing little about rust repair my dad did all my panel beating and stuff. he grinded the hold out with the old angel grinder, rust killed it with fish oil, then patched it with fibre glass and a bit of bogg. he then painted the repair with house paint, he adviced me to go rally driving before i took it for a wof which i did and passed coz the repair was covered in mud..... 3mths down the track i was driving to work at 5am, middle of winter, frosty etc etc..... came around a corner, took it a lil wide and hit the ice on the outside of the corner, weeeeeee, k-smash. as i wasnt wearing me seatbelt i landed in the passengers seat, i had hit the kerb, almost rolled, and came back down again, i started her up and got back on my way. i realised i had fucked something , it was pulling left in the worst way, i looked over and noticed the passengers side tyre poking through the floor, oldmans repair didnt hold up to well... it came out in one chunk, i drove it to the local panelbeaters and they sorted it out with welding in the floor and a new bottom arm for about 200 bucks, never had a water leak or excessive pulling to the left after that...

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putting 1300 pistons in your 1600 will raise the compression, but i think that the heads are the same. I had some oversized 1300 pistons made for my engine and it raised the compression to around 10:1 but i also bored my engine 40 thou so i dont no what compression you would get.

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