e30-323ti

Just added a cpl of E36 pics above. When I did my cage I wanted to add those same bars you sketched in, triangulating the towers but going through to the dash bar, but had no more coin. I think that would be a better solution than a 'strut brace' Are you thinking of doing something removable?

The E30's are actually quite 'weak sauce' when it comes to chassis strength in the front end. Quite often in road going cars you will see cracks around the battery tray/firewall on the d/side and the wheel well on the p/side. Also where the chassis rails join the firewall. What you can't see in those Grp A & DTM cages is the mass of bars they put in the front end. There are the bars you can see, triangulating to the dash bar. Also from the towers to the bottom of the A-pillars, and from the intake side tower (top) to the bottom of the opposite A pillar (across the back of the engine/over the gearbox - in the pic below). And, from the dashbar/A-pillar joint down to the front sub-frame mounts in the chassis rails. And then they went bezzerk for the E36 STW/BTCC chassis:

I had a 3" 1pc shaft, was no good, now run a 2pc. From Previous Discussions

Don't confuse being able to 'slam your ride' with actually having the bump travel needed for it to be usable. esp. since you are running keeper (or may be tenders) springs upfront says to me you have a lot of droop travel, but probably limited bump (combined with E36 struts being taller than the original E30's). By running less stack height (or raised turrets), you can filp that situation around, as E30/36/46 strut front ends need big roll bars which defeat need for a lot of front droop, just have a look at race car pics, most will have the inside front tyre barely on the ground. Just my 2c from experience, sure you'll figure out what works once you get some testing time on the track. Keep the updates coming.

Liking the alloy work for the radiator inlet, looking forward to get stuck into mine before too long. Re: Your Camber plates. Those look to have a huge 'stack height' If you're needing to get the car lower, and still have suspension (bump) travel, have a look at the GC or Vorshlag plates.

I've put turbo chargers in the photocopier/scanner at work in the past, works well

Single 2.5" sounds like a good solution to me, space & cost effective too. Looking forward to hearing a sound clip when you're done. Some Nice Zorst Header tech And X pipes (balance pipes) but you've no doubt dug up all that stuff with google

Tell me about, you've made me look through them all again, now feeling totally inadequate. Thanks

Shame they are all so dayum rusty. Looking forward to see what you do with it!! Inspiration maybe: (re-build gallery, put some time aside for this one) or the

^yeah^ +2k is well spendy and have been on tardme for less in the past. http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showpost.php?p=989298&postcount=192'>This E28 looks pretty boss on the C4 'vette salad shooters And not half bad on an http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/attachment.php?attachmentid=60350&stc=1&d=1348086627'>E30 either

Just for reference For my E30 with 4pots all round, Tilton Sized the below for a 5.5:1 floor mounted pedal box (unboosted of course). 323mm rotors, Front Calipers run 40/36, and a 7/10" MC (75 series) 312mm rotors, Rear Calipers run 30/28, and a 3/4" MC (75 series) Was previously running the same rotors / calipers on a 1" (MC Boosted, ~4:1 pedal ratio IIRC)

I do, in a baby'd 320i even. The centre looked like it had exploded, and he was just pulling away from a ped. X-ing. Conversely 'built' small cases have been used in 300whp NA screamers in the US, albeit in a 900kg E30 I would count on having a spare handy...

Thinking per the E9 CSL's

Lucky bugger!! Personally, I go for 16x8" BMW 'Style 5' off an E38 7er, with a good bit of LOW to boot.

Ah yes, there it is in the shadows, my bad.

Great work. Liking the 'battleship' grey, might have to borrow that for the interior of my E30. One Q' where is the harness bar? Or was the cage homologated before you needed one?

If you match the piston sectional area to the calipers you are replacing, you won't need to mess with the master cylinder sizing. If you like the balance how it is, keep the piston proportions as they are (calipers & MC's). Wilwood do the the 'same' calipers with various piston sizes, so you should be able to find something that suits.

So if you are in Wellington, you're probably not getting it from the pump, so is the source 'legit'..... If you're getting it 'by the barrell' for a track only car say, why would you want to be paying all the road tax, I would think it is sold in that manner with a disclaimer about 'not for use on public roads' Pedantic, yes, and the police often are (and often they don't have a clue)

I would say so, you'd also need to read up i nthe hobby car manual re: Tank fabrication. Incidently this is the 'free - sample' section available on the hod rod ass'n website at the moment. Also check Schedule A, as from Jan 2015 any non-OEM or FIA need to have a bunch of certification/manufacturer details shown, and must be foam filled. Bit of a side Q' is E85 allowed as a fuel for use on public roads? Don't see it at the pump anywhere (in wgtn) and would presume it has no 'road tax' etc... applied at the point of sale. No different to 'avgas / 100+ / C16' which you are not allowed to use on the road.

Prob' backlash and needs the CW&P reset, hopefully can adjust out with the carrier bearing shims (assuming a T-series has them). I use Howat engineering in NaeNae for all my toyota G-series rebuilds.

If I were to do my E30 again, I'd go for a 4G-63 or a 3rz-fe+T A *UZ would be good if you don't want to 'modify' as other have said due to high $$$/HP Making great progress there!

Looks great, I want to hear it too!!!

At least you didn't fill the esky 2/3 with diesel and head off to Manifield...

GPS Speedo - 400kph just because

The logical choice, with the least modifications required is a TD-05 14B from a VR4 or TD-05H 16G from an Evo 1-3. An EVO 3 TD-05H (big) 16G would be the most desireable. You could even find someone selling the complete manifold to down pipe if they are doing a major upgrade. EVO 4-6 are TD-05HR and spin the opposite direction, thus all the housing are orientated the opposite. Their turbine housing are also all 'twin scroll' if you are going to the effort/$$ to fit one of these, there are better options to consider. Subaru MHI turbo's have Hot / Cold housings to suit the Subaru Manifolds, thus do not 'bolt-on' to Mitsi's, no idea if the CHRA can be swapped into Mitsi housings, that you would then need to buy anyway.