ta63-1uzze

sure its not stressed out? not since it was bent 10 ish mm . . . . it will be fine as long as you don't heat it up to much . . . . . Toyota steel is much better than china spec . . . . . are you lot serious? just read all of the comments and think about this for a minuet !! this is the bit that connects you to your steering . there are reasons why you don't straighten them, heat them, or repair them. its cause IF THEY BREAK YOU ARE IN THE FUCKING SHIT

yeah I need to make a build page for it, I've done lots of overhauling of everything, and was getting to the good bit near the end. ready for the first start up. and then I found the oil leaks, that turned into gearbox damage and a rebuild check everything. . . but the person i bought the (cough) rebuilt engine/gearbox has done a remarkable job of being a douche bag I got stuck with the flywheel threads had been fucked . then needing shims/lock tabs for everything, I've got it all just need to just got to find the motivation again hahahaha should be a fun little car, has mild cam, new oil pump, new pistons. 40mm side draft and a Nissan pulsar electrical distributor . and I've replaced everything else in the car too. its good to read others build pages and actually recognize all the parts, nice to see some one else tackling same stuff that your doing. I've gotten sidetracked buying wheels for the mini hahahaha .

hey I just came across your thread, I feel your pain . I literally just finished rebuilding my mini gearbox just cause the stupid diff housing was leaking . and I haven't quite found the motivation to put the thing back together. its now just waiting for me to paint it all and then reassemble it hahahaha anyway, nice build thread man, good to see others still playing around with the old bmc cars. go the tinny a series! lol

just throwing a carb on wont necessary make more power, or be an upgrade depending on a variety of things. have you done any engine mods? is it struggling to get enough fuel? what engine, what's its set up, is it currently running with out fault?

should be way less like 0.02 , that would be normal. if its a later model car with a lot of modules then leave the amp meter on it for about 30 mins, they some times tail of after a bit of time. but yeah .2 is far to much that will kill the battery in no time at all start pulling fuses with the amp meter connected and see what circuit is draining the battery

lol this is funny, just think about the application of this idea vs your the car thief . . . just making something that would mask the signal the entire time , having to have the same mask at home covering the place its stored in, and covered for at least a few weeks or until you found the gps unit and ripped it out . they have back up battery too so you can still contact it for a few weeks with out vehicle batter power . . . also they don't have to make noise, they can just be there silently transmitting, the whole time and the thief doesn't know its there to make the craze faraday cover in the first place. you can install it in the boot or under b pillars , anywhere at all , its tiny. this is not 100 percent fail safe but its so far the most effective way of using current technology to fight back against car theft. far better than a car with just flashing lights and single immobilize system. this gives you the chance to get it back , and its all we really care about at the heart of it .

yeah i have the ebay job. TK103b . i got this for the fact it has remotes and i can use central locking signals, and its got a output that you can connect to a relay , now you can trip multiple circuits ,if you want. like horn on, and cut fuel pump, ignition module, ecu , any number of things to make it impossible to start. also the horn is good if you decide to use the 5 0 for collection of vehicle , you could do it with in 2 minutes of them getting home, literally you can knock on the door and they will be snapped red handed ! also it has programmable areas so if it moves from that area, it will message you and lock the car, you can chose to remotely set the relay of yourself via text message too. so if your like me and have 2 cars you always know were it is when your at work with the daily shit heap vehicle it has a tracking mode to for disconnection and memory , ive not had an issue with signal problems so yeah its a feature that does stuff i don't know much about but its has it. . . . there are heaps of things that could be done with these systems, and you can install it anywhere you want it, they do need a glass mounted antenna but its easy to hide on the back tints help too they use cellphone networks and gps too, so if you have a signal on your phone then it will cover it. i haven't had any issue but i am also on the top of a hill in the middle of Auckland. they are the cheapest way to track your car. monitored cars alarm systems cost shit loads., this is only 80 bucks and 20 a year for the sim card .

all I can say is being a vigilante will do you no favors, all this sending people over isn't going to get your car back if they take it, they will just take it some where else and you wont have shit cant do shit. best thing to do is get a gps tracker. they are so cheap , they can come with remote actuator drives so you can make the car stall or the horn go, connect it to a relay and make anything amount of things happen. the point is if they want it they will take it , you could be at work could be anywhere, they will find a way . so your best bet is to be able to find it if its taken . to many times I have seen stolen cars on this site, alarms don't do shit. recording number plates doesn't help, shitty cameras in parking lots don't help,. we all have to be smarter then these bastards what everyone should have is a gps, you can take the cops right to the place, set the horn off and bam there is your evidence that the car is there. cops can then go in and get it, the gps doesn't have to have a siren or flashing lights, it doesn't have to have tilt sensors or glass brake protection, all that shit is a waste of time, all you need is to know were it is. I've got them in all my cars. its so easy to install and only 20 bucks a year to keep the sim connected to the network. any who that's my point of view. everyone get a gps , its the best solution to getting your car back period

make a bung that has a step in it, the step fits into the large hole and locates it there and you weld the outer diameter to the diff bracket. then in the center of the washer/bung it has the hole size that you need . let me know what you think I can make a silly little picture to convey the idea if the words don't do it for you

I recently got a full set of 175/50/13 from mag and turbo manukau . they are nankang as1 . i see the price has gone up for the listing on trademe, i paid allot less then what they are now asking.

chuck the 044 in the tank . that will make it allot quitter, and the fuel is great to help cool the pump down which makes it last longer too . so all round best solution is for the pump to be in the tank.

oh thank fuck for that, retract previous statement (my bad) . just jam any old radiator in it then. cable tie it in, or fence wire and that will be sweet. shit someone on here may even have something to donate . a mazda demio or something similar. there are quite a few tinny radiators out there .

just push it of a cliff and save the persons life your going to take driving around with tractor tires on the steering end of your car. you may not be the one that causes an accident but if you cant stop or steer properly then its your fault too in the eyes of the law . bro seriously we have all done questionable car stuff in our lives but you sound as if you know better . even snow tires would be less dangerous in my opinion go to zebra/ pick a part / trade me scrap dealers/crashed damaged cars , and get some second hand tires and a radiator too , that is probably the cheapest way to do it . don't have to spend up large but you have allot of options .

im just going to put it down to shit ignition and bore wash, its something that I've never tested for so who knows how much compression can be lost due to bore wash my friends compresion tester was missing the small plug fitting so I never gave it another test. and I cant remove the fitting from the end of mine to do a leak down test. but it doesn't really matter now cause its running so it will definitely be well over 60 psi. these things are meant to be about 200 psi( something like 11 to 1 comp ratio, or there abouts) . . . so maybe tomorrow if I can be fucked I will do another compression test to see how much a wet cylinder gives. but it will be high , I just put new oil and filter in it so not to keen on purposely throwing fuel in there to wash the bore and then testing so for now I think I will just leave it at poor ignition being the main culprit its been a long as fuck week for me. lots of hours spent, most of them was fucking around to get the correct parts from bnt, there "system" is a joke. I pretty much had to take every part down to them to match up lol. ah well its all done now and thank fuck for that

its bucket and shim so no lifters just cam on top so kind of direct to the valve. which is good nice and simple . na I couldn't make it do anything like that , I tried that the first time I had the cam belt off. but if it was that it retards the cam so wouldn't be able to start or idle with it locked on. so kind of rules its self out now that it is running , but yeah its all fine now, I drove it for a hour today and its all good. it has me scratching my head to say the least. I was in a rush to get it done so I didn't fit parts in an order for diagnoses , I should have then I could have known what it was exactly but I was fighting with time to get it done so it made sense just to fit everything and not fuck around , but now I wish I had done one thing at a a time . but when you are not sure if any of what you are doing is going to fix the car you need to drive asap you just rush everything to get it done .

right so cleaned out the vvt valve, it wasn't gunky or anything . replaced all the worn out ignition pasts I found. plugs ,cap, leads rotor, fuel filter air filter oil filter and oil. checked ignition timing . basically did a Mack daddy service to get it into a respectable state again. resealed rocker cover and dissy o ring. cam belt , seals , water pump tensioner all look to be newly replaced. cranked it over it was very hesitant to run, gave it about half throttle , started to pop and splutter. gave it more throttle got it running on 2 then 3 then on 4, dropped of the throttle and then it died. cranked it for a bit again, then half throttle. again it was shitty and stumbling, then it cleared and I held throttle for about a min at 2000 rpm. no smoke or anything out the back , eventually started to run well after it got some temperature into it . so I really cant say what it was, I am confused at the low compression reading, perhaps it had bore wash from the cranking and not running and its washed the oil out of the rings? but 3/4 of the compression ? it doesn't really add up. and why wouldn't it run in the first place? it wouldn't have had low compression to start with . . . possibly the shitty ignition system wasn't strong enough to ignite, and the weak spark the fault the whole time perhaps . but it wasn't running badly or misfiring or doing anything to suggest that it was having trouble prier to it not starting . it couldn't have been the vvt as the computer earths out the solenoid allowing the oil to flow so its naturally closed to oil. so it couldn't have been held open. and the solenoid was clean and working well. so that rules that idea out so to sum it up, I found that the car has been a little neglected and the receipts for parts don't match up to the condition the parts were in . it was meant to have had a lot of things replaces and I cant see them wearing out in the time frame they were meant to be replaced in. they look like they haven't ever been changed. so to say the least you never know even if you have paper work if its actually been done. sorry to disappoint and not actually find any tangible fault to help in the future for all the black top 4age guys , but all I can say is look after your car, I am guessing that if it had the service it was meant too have had none of this would have happened. wallet = unhappy + return of doort = even /0

lol did everyone just have a shower and at the same time . . .deep in though, have the same thought pop into there heads!!!! , its like the vct valve is stuck open giving full oil pressure whilst cranking and advancing the inlet cam . Its got to be it . I will whip it of in the morning and take it to work give it a clean in the kerosene bath . hahahaha now I think I can sleep tonight, it all sounds like the culprit. shit I should have though of that one myself. duh !!!

na I haven't, what are the clearance ? I will check it tomorrow , guess it cant hurt to check that of the list anyway, but it the way its all come about I don't think it would be that, it was absolutely fine on Saturday drove around and used it for a hour , then it didn't get used on Sunday . come Monday morning it just cranks and wont run. if it was something like that I would think it would run like a bag of shit for a long time before finally getting so bad it wont run at all, and for it to have low compression across all 4 cylinders perfectly even too. none of it makes any sense at all. will try another comp tester tomorrow with a fresh charged battery and see what I get.

well nothing to report under the rocker cover, looks normal, I've put the battery on charge. will get some clean oil tomorrow and do a wet comp test see what I get. also getting a second compression tester to try out tomorrow. hopefully its got a leak down attachment . I cant disassemble mine to fit an aero fitting to it arrrrr. yeah I couldn't get the crank bolt off even my electric rattle gun wasn't strong enough, and it can do Honda crank bolts. so its way over fucking tight . but I don't think the key way is broken cause other wise it wouldn't make any compression at all . the ignition system is in poor state, so will get some new bits for that tomorrow too whilst I'm at bnt , this car has not been looked after as well as I was led to believe . Im not really fussed cause I know I can fix what ever it is that is the fault. It just the not knowing that is doing my head in, cant stop thinking about what it could be . shit like this just makes me ocd , I have to know why

so got covers off,all nice and dry, tension is a little low for my liking, but still acceptable . timing marks line up ,so that rules out that so now I'm going to whip of the rocker cover and see what's going on with the top half of the engine. its very easy to turn over by hand and has little compression at all, I can spin it over with my short 3/8 drive ratchet on the crank. yes its used and good compression tester. have checked my other car to verify that its not reading wrong. yes the head was/should/hopefully is torqued down, it hasn't had any overheating issues, doesn't have the death smell or anything. nothing to indicate that its blown all of the head gasket ? lol I cant think of why this has happened. hope something is in the cam area , be back shortly

I have seen it before , but typically on an old belt that has had bad oil leaks, or cause some dumb ass hasn't tensioned the belt correctly, or they haven't rotated the engine then checked the tension again etc. poor fitting.. . . . I have even had a customer that tried driving through a big as fuck puddle and the water went under the covers, made it skip 3 teeth, but was sweet , just threw a kit at it and was all good. it got a new belt about a year ago, it was done by the previous owner. only done 8000 km since it was done. (ex company car, auto sparky) have receipts etc. all seals water pump tensioners the lot.bnt stuff so gates belt , good normal stuff , I ran out of time to pull it down enough to get to the tensioner/lower half , got to dark to see what I was doing., it has tension across the cam sprockets and on the tension side , but I couldn't see if the slack side or tensioner. so that leads me to think its skipped and not broken altogether. "how many teeth do you have to jump before it gets mess" that is the magical question , hence why I am asking all you 4age boys., it was running fine so I can anly assume it didn't jump whilst it was running, and it still turn over freely on the starter, but that doesn't prove that its not touching. . . hopefully I can get home early tomorrow and get into it fast as whilst the sun is still out .

ah, shit balls , the interweb recons that it is interference, its a 20valve, black top. not a 16v . oh well. fuck it , damit , now I wont be able to sleep cause I will just be thinking about getting it going all night . gaaaaaaaaaay !!!

ah, thank fuck for that. I ran out of time tonight and it to dark to see. will throw a kit at it tomorrow night and hopefully that is that. yeah I would be keen 2 X 4AGE that would be mean, call it a 8aaggee

yo so has anyone ever jumped a tooth and not had mashed valves? miss's car wont start this morning, drove fine in the weekend with no issues or faults , strange sounds or anything to cause concern I just checked all the normal shit, fuel pressure , spark , injector pulsing, ect. . . cover the simple stuff all looking ok . I just did a compression test and its got 60 psi across all 4 , dry cylinder, and cold engine, all plugs out , throttle wide open, so that's shit as . ha so I suspect its jumped a tooth, I also believe they are interference engines, so this begs the question if it just jumped one tooth do they mash valves??

I was hoping someone would recognize the markings/ part number/ branding and that would possibly lead me to a site so I could find out size/data via part numbers. I wasn't panning on removing the head , mainly just because I have no reason other than to id the pistons. they are brand new , the engine was rebuilt before dry storing for the last 10 years . I just have no information on what it has . . . lost to the far reaches of time unfortunately .