GARDRB

Surely you've got bonnet electromagnets running off your PDM and your dash flashes up "Check bonnet electromagnets you ADHD fuck" when your wheelspeed sensors show over 3km/h and positive oil pressure

I'd run the battery in the passenger's footwell or behind the passenger seat. I am a big believer in keeping it close to keep it simple and not need as much heavy wire everywhere. In my friend's SSS Sentra racecar, he wanted to put the battery way in the back until I pointed out that mounting a lightweight battery on its side in the factory position meant he didn't need a huge amount of cable everywhere. Everything that needs battery power is in or around the engine bay. If you're running dual 15" subs each with its own dedicated amp, then go hard and put your battery in the back of the car. But it doesn't make sense to lose all that power to voltage drop getting the power back to the battery, and then using the power in the front of the car. It also means that you can run a smaller battery cable and terminals, which all costs extra the bigger you have it, plus you need annoyingly large cutters and crimpers and large battery cable is a ballache to work with. Battery terminals are also a great distribution block. You can bolt all your extra cable runs to the battery terminal and then you don't have to buy an additional distribution block. These are amazing. E46 engine bay positive terminal. They are like $10 at pick a part and give you a nice isolated engine bay terminal if you need one.

Is it worth just sealing the airbox against the bonnet??

What about hose clamping some hose or another bush on the inside of each swaybar bush? The swaybar in my Altezza has got some grunty clamps holding some sort of rubber that I assume was put on to do this.

I've had similar thoughts about a k24 Toyota and asked Eric Hux, the guy that makes the K24/E153 adapter about AWD and he was very certain it wouldn't work with the Toyota transfer case because of how big the Toyota transfer case is compared to the Honda. Then at the same time I've also seen the 2gr AWD AE111, so with a big enough grinder anything is possible. How close is the Celica diff ratio to a Honda one? I know the Honda guys are running a viscous coupler which would allow for some sort of difference, but I've also seen Honda guys go to huge efforts to get a decently match rear ratio. RaceFab has recently done an Evo rear subframe to take a Honda diff, but I've also read things about there being a Jag diff that works.

Welcome to the world of the rest of us poors/plebs who don't have access to a tig. I'm sure you'll enjoy your hot metal glue gun

Is it a Sumitomo connector? https://msel.co.nz/sumitomo/

The cops would be alll over that one

Coz you won't share it with me

Nah I’ve got the later plastic hot wire AFM so there is no FC switch in it like the earlier AFM if that’s what you’re alluding to?

You reckon I can modify the Speeduino software to look like the link software and confuse him?

That sounds like overkill, my kind of kill, not a PDM?

Yeah, pull to ground to switch the circuit opening relay that controls the pump, then factory functionality gives you another pin that bypasses the fuel pump resistor, but I'm not running a resistor, so the circuit opening relay runs the pump at full power. The ECU pin isn't pulling to ground, it's staying high. Kelvin from The Cartune Company, who is supposed to be the 1UZ guru, (and I have paid for wiring diagrams and support), was meant to get back to me early last week, but I have heard nothing. It will still run if I earth the relay myself, but that's not ideal. I'd read about 1UZ ECU capacitor problems, and opened the ECU up, and there is definitely some capacitor fallout. So I've got some new caps. But it sounds like the fuel pump control pin might be a transistor issue. I don't really want to become an electronics tech and feel like my effort and money are better spent on an aftermarket ECU, which has always been a future plan anyway. Free selling on TradeMe prompted me to sell the spare car, and I have enough money for a semi-decent second-hand Link. I'm pretty keen to pull the trigger on this G4+ Storm because it does everything I want and is about half the price of buying a brand new ECU. One of the guys on the Link forum was extolling the virtues of a G4X over G4+, but let's be honest, it's an overpowered street car that's just got a factory 1UZ in it, so it doesn't need anything too fancy.

Nah I meant on the factory ECU, the fuel pump control output isn’t working

Looks like they didn't add e-throttle til G4+ Red. E-throttle was more of a nice to have. Gonna sit on my cash a little longer, but the black Storm is leading the charge at the moment, especially with the 1UZ guy not getting back to me about my fuel pump control.

Money has been deposited for the Corolla, so I'm almost ready to make a purchase. I have just posted this on the link forum.

ideally I want my tuner to be as happy as possible. I hear a pie and V keeps him pretty happy though

Ok, looking at dipping my toe into the world of aftermarket ECUs since I've sold a car, have the money kicking around, and the factory ECU is getting a bit sad. I've got a UCF20 1UZ in a CE71/KE70 Corolla wagon. I've found what I consider a good deal on a Link Storm G4+, which looks to be the first of the black case ECUs? I understand that I should switch from stepper motor idle control to a solenoid. I'm gonna need an IAT. Can I use a Toyota IAT or do I need a Link or similar one? Is Spartan still the go-to for a wideband controller? Do I blank my narrowband sensors and run a wideband after the merge in my exhaust, or do I keep the narrowband sensors in there too? To start with, I don't really want to build a whole new loom, so I'm thinking I'll run the twin distributor setup over going to individual coils and coils can be a future project. I'd be getting it tuned by our favourite 1UZ guru @kpr at Garage1uz if he will have me in his shed, but I'm guessing I can get a semi-decent tune into it through hassling @RomanDave and that the Link software can give me a semi decent base map? Anything else I need to consider? @Dudley is trying to sell me a Link G3 that he probably got off @Stu for a gobby and a reach-around, but I like the idea of having a slightly more modern ECU and the 8 injector and ignition outputs feel nice and future-proofy. Thoughts/Feels/likes/prayers?

These are the shit, I have two in my Corolla, one replacing the engine bay fuse/relay box and one specifically for the ECU under the dash.

So the horrible concoction on the lawnmower actually stemmed from this thinking. I got sick of bending the steel plate that goes under the deck and figured that ply would just bounce, chip or wear as opposed to bending and being a pain in the ass all the time.

Don't you work for some South Island billionaire? Can't you steal the heavily starched sheets from his AirBNBs and use them for your splitter?

Splitters are something I take very seriously, as you can see from my lawnmower... I like the idea of a splitter blade that mounts to the chassis, is easily removable and has a lip that blocks airflow between the splitter and the bumper. Ideally, it's also gonna protect your fancy fibreglass bits from damage. I'd look at Kevlar to wrap the splitter for the same reason it's used on jetboat bottoms, it's much more impact resistant and won't smash like CF. These guys make a really cool-looking bracket that's adjustable and has a quick release https://www.pci-racing.com/product-category/aero/front-splitter-brackets/ EDIT: You'll also notice that I never read any of the posts on this page before writing my post.

Yeah, I looked into this, it appears that that's a flap AFM thing, and my AFM is hot wire doesn't have a FC pin in it. I'm currently waiting to hear back from the Guru, so we will see what he says.

Updated: It's a UCF20 Celsior engine and ECU with the hot wire AFM, the FC pin on the AFM seems to be a UCF10 thing for the flappy AFM Heeelp. Electronics nerds, I need your brains. The FC pin on my UCF20 1UZ ECU isn't switching to low to trigger the circuit opening relay to run my fuel pump. I've tested it with a test light and a multimeter and checked allll the earths I've done allll the Googling but the pin doesn't seem to want to trigger. I've read all the things, from the theories (like the incorrect wiring instructions from Nigel Wade that are everywhere) that the pin doesn't actually trigger a relay (which has been proven wrong) to the pin should put out a positive voltage (also proven wrong). Does anyone have any ideas or deeper understanding that could way in? It sounds like there is a transistor that is switched by a wire in the AFM or something??