GARDRB

How it started ^^^ vs how it's going So I mentioned to Dad that we needed to get the leg off to see if the driveshaft was rusted. I didn't mean now. Dad decided now was a great time. So we've spent however long it's been between that post and this post pulling it apart. We've split the top of one flat head machine screw, broken a bolt, scooped out a couple of cups of this weird shell/grease mix, poured the driveshaft out as a fine powder of iron oxide, and now we're trying to work out how to remove the machine screw with the broken head to release what I'm gonna call the pinion gear.

Those could fit the bill, are they run individually or in a wasted spark config and what are you wanting for them? Maxy is a bit of a hoarder/hotrodder/tight ass so I'm pretty sure he will scrape something out of somewhere, but good to have a backup plan.

Ok soooo, I have a v8 Corolla project that's been off the road since 2010, a Lifan go-kart project, and a couple of later model Corollas sitting in the driveway to tidy up and sell among many other things so I decided that grown-up thing to do would be to buy another project. This one is 2-stroke, something I know a whole lot less about, and as old as my Mum. Dad is a boatbuilder, so it was much easier to get him on board for this project, and he's even let me store it in the woodworking shed. The guy selling it priced it based on what he'd seen a fuel tank listed for on TradeMe. The motor turns over by hand, but the prop doesn't turn, and it sounds like it's a shaft rust issue. I'll dig into it at some stage, but for now creating a thread on here was much more exciting than actually working today. I see the Seagull Barrys race them, so it might be a good chance to buy a silly little boat to put it on.

The ECU has arrived, consider me impressed. The micro USB is a bit janky, but that's neither here nor there. It's been fitted with a VR conditioner and configured to suit the Toyota 24+1 trigger setup. It connects to TunerStudio which I'm quite happy to see has Mac support. Now I just need to resuscitate a laptop, as I don't think my Mac Mini will work very well in the car. I went and saw Max on Sunday and we stood and stared at the two disassembled dizzies for a while. The guts of the 4AGE dizzy are too big to fit in the 2TG dizzy, so it sounds like there is going to be some sort of choppy choppy sleevey sleevey action going on. We're looking at potentially cutting the 2TG dizzy off at the red line, turning the blue section down and turning the base of the 4age dizzy down to be joined with a sleeve and joining the two dizzy shafts somewhere in the mix. Max also pointed out the oil port on the side of the 4age dizzy for lubrication and told me he was gonna lie awake at night designing something in his head. I guess my next step is to start stripping the 2TG loom down and working out what I'm keeping, what I'm removing and what I'm adding, along with what is already in there that can be reused. I'm already planning to run the map sensor and IAT sensor off the AFM wiring having done this previously on a Silvertop to Blacktop 4age swap, and I know I'm gonna need some more injector and ignition wires.

That will depend on what coils we find kicking around I think. We may end up with wasted spark purely based on there being free coils in the shed somewhere. Max comes from the days of importing series 1 RX7s from Japan cut in half and welding them back together again, so there is a bunch of amassed stuff between his various sheds.

I've done a 3d printed dimple die. We pressed panel steel with just a nut and bolt through the die. Alloy should be much easier than panel steel to work too. It would be a fun CNC project to make up MDF forms

Two questions, One, does the larger aperture on the plate help if you're still only using the same-sized tube to get the air there? Could you achieve the same with a hole the size of the pipe and then vanes coming off the orange plate to distribute the air around the inside of the area? Two, have you considered/can you go to a thicker disk to give yourself more material to dissipate the heat

I’ve got Max putting the guts of a blacktop 4age dizzy into the 2tg dizzy at the moment so that should sort triggers, 2tg injectors run a resistor box so need to find some injectors that don’t need that. It looks like the Speeduino is similar to a megasquirt. I’ve been watching tuner studio videos to get my head around that

So because I have a big job to finish at the moment and am under immense time pressure, I got distracted and had a fiddle in the shed after staying up late last night doing research. This is my 2TG pile. First I had a fiddle with throttle bodies and TPSs. On the left is a TVIS Redtop 4age throttle body and on the right is the 2tg one. The 4age has a potentiometer TPS vs the switch type of the 2TG The 4age inlet manifold is on the left, and the 2TG one is on the right. The bolts are the same width apart, but the 2TG ones have a smaller spacing vertically. There is also a 10mm difference in size between the two TB holes. The nerd that can't weld alloy in me has been working out how to design a bolt-on adapter plate to bolt the 4age throttle to the 2TG inlet, but the logical option is probably to make a weld-on plate that the 4age throttle bolts to. We looked into switching the TPS over, but swapping the whole throttle seems to be less fiddly and results in a bigger throttle, and bigger is better right? The next little mission was trigger wheels. We searched through the shed for old Toyota distributors and found an AE101 5AFE one and a Blacktop 4AGE one. I pulled them both apart and decided the 4AGE one on the right was a simpler setup, but will take them both to Max and see what he thinks. I've read about how ideally you want to run your trigger on the crank due to distributor slop etc, but this seems a whole lot less ugly. Hopefully, we can drop these guts into the 2TG distributor and get a cam and crank signal off it. It will be easy right? (This is what people say when they come to me for website things that don't turn out to be easy). I've found this discussion https://speeduino.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=495&start=100 that relates to a 3SGTE that seems to use the same style of trigger wheels.

Judge me and tell me how far over my head I am here

Dad's cousin married Max, who has always been our family mechanic and panel beater. He's somewhere north of 70 and a full-time menace and tinkerer. This is his Ke70 wagon that he bought off @Dudley (also a fill-time menace) and proceeded to rebuild half the body of before painting it and tidying allll the things. He got bored one day and had a 2TGEU sitting around that he'd got in exchange for putting a 4age into someone's wagon years ago. The loom had been chopped in half, and being older than fuel injection he thought it was a great idea to replace the injection with twin carbs. Yesterday my brother called me and said "Max has been talking to Pete's friend who built himself an ECU for his car and tuned it himself. He reckons you should be able to do it." Approximately 24 hours later I have all of the EFI gear from the Corolla sitting on the floor in the shed and have read half of the information on the internet about the Speeduino. I've been given a generous (for a Speediuno build) budget to work with and told to get ordering. I've printed out the 2T wiring diagram which is comical after dealing with 1UZ diagrams and am starting to make a plan. So far the shopping list (other than the ECU) includes: IAT sensor (probably a Toyota one) Map sensor (also probably a Toyota one) (so I don't have to run a vacuum line all the way to the ECU and can just run it off the AFM wiring) TPS (maybe 4age as we have a couple of motors sitting around) A wideband, probably Spartan 3 I'm leaning toward either one of these https://www.everythingfuelinjection.com/store/The-Micro-p161480124 https://kiwiefi.nz/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=54 Feel free to tell me in the discussion how far over my head I am. I've wired a 4age, a B16a, an SR20VE, a 1uz and a 3uz and used to do car alarms, so pretending I know what I'm doing.

St215 3sgte with all the bits you already have, and drive it

The CRV with Landrover Discovery viscous to pinned CRV diff setup seems to be capable of 7s in a civic, but then they are all cars that would run 8s without the rear assist probably. It's all pointing to the 2AR/2AZ being a better option in a Toyota

Have a look here https://www.woodsport.org/forum/forum.php Paul Woods from Woodsport pioneered the 2gr MR2 swap I believe. He built a 2gr AWD first gen Rav4. I seem to recall him using a smaller transfer case from a later model Rav4 due to it being smaller than the GT4 one. Also google 2gr Alltrac, the US Celica guys have done it a couple of times which may help with finding bits that give more clearance. It was Hux racing that told me the Toyota transfer wouldn't fit with the K24 block. It was a comment on one of his Facebook posts somewhere I believe.

Funny you should say that. I just measured one at the parts place. Sadly too long. At the moment Mr Tilton is in the lead, followed closely by Mr RomanDave

So the most important question is.... What are you gonna make the controls on the right hand side do?

It's looking like I'm gonna need a 3/4" Clutch master to work with my hydraulic throwout bearing. It's going into my 1uz Ce71/Ke70 Wagon. The factory CE71 cylinder is 5/8" and roughly 85mm long with a vertical bolt pattern. I've found a Tilton cylinder that appears to be the best option so far, but if anyone has any ideas for something that's OEM and more OEM-priced I'm all ears. The factory one is very cosy with my driver's side head, so I can't go any longer realistically. I'm not keen to go to reverse swing. This is the Tilton option. https://www.cardwells.co.nz/product/tilton-master-cylinder-76-series/

I've been watching them for about 10 years, 2k seems about where they've always stayed. A Runx or Feilder might be a good way to get one and then part out the whole car.

I've always wanted a 2ZZ but never been able to get over the buy-in on one. When I got my 1uz for my Corolla a 2ZZ was more expensive. Also agree with ditching the S13 stuff. It's trash in a Corolla

The 2zr also benefits from sharing an exhaust manifold pattern with the outgoing 1ZZ and a bell housing pattern with the 1NZ.

I don't want to rain on your parade if you were considering using the E-series toyota box with the K24, but I talked to the K24 to E-series adapter guy that does all the MR2 kits when I was considering doing a k24 into an ae104 wagon and he said he's looked into it and the K24 block will not play nicely with the Toyota transfer case. He recommended going to CRV gear.

I'd be very careful if looking at that Carina, someone that openly talks about doing plates and tags on a car on TradeMe might not be the best person to deal with and as @Dudley pointed out there was a stolen warning on it

@KKtrips and or @cletus Just read Chris' comments in the dodgy cert advice Facebook group around the bump steer swing test. On a ke70/ae86 with Techno Toy Tuning roll center adjusters between the strut and steering knuckle is a swing test required for Cert if the car doesn't have adjustable height tie-rod ends? I know @advokit had trouble getting a cert because he had bump steer adjustable tie-rod ends and ended up reverting to factory as he couldn't get his bump steer within spec. Will I need a swing test with just the RCAs? From my understanding the factory bump steer in a corolla is pretty bad to begin with?

Bloody China

Did it come with AEM stickers?