maxted

new seat upholstery looks awesome! nice car

have been recommended this off trademe heres there spiel This is a universal cylinder that can be used instead of a fork and standard release bearing setup. This kit comes with a remote braided hose kit. We can sell without if needed. The bore of this CSC are designed to work with American transmissions such as Saginaw, T-10, Muncie and Jerico 1.379"/35mm but can be used on Japanese Gearboxes which they are commonly used for - Toyota R154- W Series, Nissan RB20/ 25 etc however these units come with a standard flat face bearing and are designed to run on rolled tip diaphragms pressure plates commonly found on Ford and Chev V8 engines so if you want to run them on a normal flat diaphragm pressure plate you must change the bearing to one with a radius we can supply these. Failure to do this will cause this unit to essentially push the diaphragm out of the pressure plate and put loading on your crank- so please be careful matching the correct bearing to your appilcation. This unit slips over the output shaft snout and comes with spacers so the unit can be setup to correct height. Also comes with studs to secure unit from moving although are imperial. Unit compressed height is 1.688/42.8mm to a max of 2.375" /60.3mm giving a max 17.4mm of travel. It's recommend that you run a 3/4" master cylinder. a friend has used one in a hilux with a uz1 and w55 and said it worked really well, he said he spaced it off the bell housing using the provided spacers but used a 5/8" master cylinder. ​mjrstar- couldn't find your mazda build thread? did come across another thread about these bearings from last year with a couple of pics, seems they are quite popular in the stock cars, just a bit of work in working out set-up, definitely worth while if saves hacking up firewall and allowing mounting motor further back

Been thinking of using a hydraulic throw out bearing to ditch the clutch fork and save cutting my firewall / tunnel, anyone had any experiences with them? Easy enough to set up? Seen a few different ones on trademe

cheers mate! yeah been collecting a few bits for one for awhile now

swapped over gearboxes, have got it sitting in there with carb sitting level, box has more clearance around firewall now, had to cut some more out of tunnel to raise it up to level shifter sticks through floor a bit heres the w series gearbox mount with adapting the box to the rx7 bell housing it lays the gearbox over towards the drivers side, so had to make a new crossmember to suit this angle got it all drilled out and bolted up the mount and just tacked it at the angle until I've got it in and tried it out, also made new brackets to be welded to chassis and use two bolts either side instead of one like the original one hopefully will have it in this coming week Also re-thinking engine mounts after coming across someone else's build on the net, quite like how they have done the front plate

main reason for going with w series box is I picked up the w56 for cheap and already had the bell housing and found an adaptor for $100, even tho the ratios aren't flash i can swap it out for a w57/8 at a later date, saves changing the whole set-up from s1-3 later on, and my little bro wants the s1 box for his escort his one is knackered yeah its only a standard 12a at this stage

love the new wheels looks the business

discuss here project thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/30826-1975-mazda-b1600/

made some progress over last few weeks, decided to ditch the s1 rx7 gearbox as it would be a hassle down the track if wanted to put something with a bit more power down the track so have got a w56 and managed to find an adaptor to fit s4/5 rx7 bell housing got it all bolted up this evening pretty close shifter position wise, and has gearbox mount further back also a bonus will almost line up with factory x member now, only down side is drive shaft will need to be longer as output is under shifter also had some mounts for the front plate tacked together and got some rubber mounts will swap out gearboxes next so can get it sitting where its going to stay then make front plate and suss out box crossmember also picked up some discs for the front off a b2000 get rid of those drums! Also started a discussion thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/42707-maxteds-b1600/

sweet so should run matching slave and master to suit series 4/5

Was awesome to have a look over it today, such a nice car good job! Love the hotwires

sr1600- cheers for the info, do you also run rx slave cylinder and fork? nzed- I had heard this also regarding rubbish ratios and the selector forks being a weak point, but i got the box really cheap and will just replace with a w57/8 if i have problems down the track, but at the moment it will do to make mounts and get through certification, its only going to have a standard 12a to start with so won't be getting a rough time. cheers for the help

Just wondering if anyone on here have run a w55-58 behind a rotary, i have got a w56 and a s4/5 rx7 bellhousing, ive just brought an adaptor too suit, wanting to know what set-up you need to use clutch wise, do you use all rx7 stuff except a supra splined clutch disc? Any help is much appreciated

awesome thanks mate, just had a read up that sounds like a good solution cheers!

I have scored some disc brakes of a b2000 to go on the front of my b1600, just wondering if anyone else has done the same or similar, going from drum all-round to discs on front, theres not much room between original brake and clutch cylinders 80mm max so could maybe squeeze a 160mm diameter booster in. keen to hear what other people have done, cheers

man that photo u put up of that one on meshies is so cool! love the twin round headlights

pulled engine out and ground the rest of mounts off and dropped it back in, this ute has had a floor shift 5 speed conversion at some stage and they had welded a plate to gear box crossmember to bring the mount holes back towards the diff, so i flipped it around and it bolts up roughly where i want it when its all mounted where its going to stay i will probably cut plate off and shift mounts on the chassis forward and use the holes in the centre of crossmember and get rid of that plate. So thats left the engine sitting in the bay like this thats as low and as far back as i can get it keeping roughly 10-20mm clearance from front crossmember only now the clutch slave cylinder and fork foul Im not keen on moving the engine forward to clear it as it would have to come forward 80-100mm so going to look into raising where the firewall meets the tunnel roughly 50mm to get some clearance and clear the clutch fork, luckily the heater is mounted approx 100-150mm off the firewall so theres some room in there to play with, do something roughly like this and if need be a bit of a extra notch for clutch fork also welded up the factory bolt pattern on the front plate to get rid of the offset, now its ready to be re-drilled more central also picked up a carburettor kit for the nikki as it leaked big time last time when i tried it on another motor, and got a knackered slave cylinder to use for dummy mounting help give me abit more of an idea how much to raise/notch firewall

made abit of progress yesterday, removed the 4 banger and 5 speed then cut the engine mounts out still need to grind the rest down flush and tidy up Then to slot this into the gap got it in there its going to be tight for the exhaust will need some pretty slim headers made, the clutch fork is pretty close to the firewall too, might pull it all out and trim the rest of the mounts away and see if i can drop it a little bit more down and back

cool build, those starsharks are such a awesome rim!

managed to find this for the chassis to do up and mount motor in ect so i don't have to pull mine off the road will pull the old 1600 motor and box out next and get the 12a and box mounts done before i remove the rusty as cab

new instrument cluster is really cool, good work!

A mate had this tailgate in pretty poor condition, someone has cut the bottom skin off as it must of been pretty rusty like most i have seen, going to need a fair bit of work to get it in tidy cond again, pretty keen to have the stamped mazda and swage line in it like this one as mine is new zealand new it has the plain tailgate also got this standard port 12a and s1 5 speed to put in it down the track need to get these blasted and painted or chromed

Brought this b1600 back in the weekend going to do a full resto on it, its going to be a long term project, would like to find another chassis to slowly fix up with all new bits and paint up ect so i can still daily drive this

Awesome build thread! love the info, look forward to seeing the HQ on standard steelies and hubcaps, heres a couple of photos of my old HQ on hubcaps

awesome build nice work