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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. azzurro
    Yeah. The front floor skin will be a tool store and will also try to jam in a 12v battery for the interior led lighting etc. Bikes and maybe bbq on the draw bar.
  2. azzurro
    I made some progress on getting this back on the the ground, and a little closer to it as well. I got the leaves reset 2 inches lower by an onery old codger out in Glen Eden (deepest west Auckland) who cooks them in a diesel fired forge in a corrugated iron shed out the back of his house. Top stuff. about 3 days later i picked them up and i also needed a couple of shackle bushes as they were shagged out. Luckily these take 125 (and Fiat Dino) sized bushes so they are easy to find. I also got the wee handbrake shoes relined and new hard lines made up for the diff as well, and a new diff pinion nut, pinion seal, and axle seals. I was a bit worried about the new pinion nut messing up the bearing preload as it was a different depth and new nylon (the old one i could turn off by hand so i dind trust it was in the right place when i removed it either) but i figured so long as the diff felt right and i didnt exceed 200ft/lb doing it up i wouldnt further crush the crush washer and it would be ok. Fingies crossed i guess! Shiney! Anyway, spent the day connecting stuff up and etc and finally got it back on the ground to see where we ended up Pretty happy with that!
  3. azzurro
    Arty - do you mean duallies,or like wheel in the old arches after cutting out the sliding doors? Cause making a tiny seated, unpowered van with an even shorter than stock loadare seems useful only as, well art? But, enlighten me. My mind awaits expansion like unchewed hubba bubba at the end of the last packet in the bottom of the box. Waiting. *** this could be lush? Could be! How very dare you sir!! Well, I dont know if you noticed but it has * Cheviot * Turbo * rims in the ever popular 13 " diameter and 6" width, with the desireable JJ type tyre mounting bead!
  4. azzurro
    A bit more progress on this. Got some tyres fitted to the TURBO's Got a jockey wheel, fitted the doors and tore off the old purple and ripped tints Picked up a sweet matching Cruiser at the op shop in Taupo, and retinted the windows Made a bad ass friend Need some proper shank nuts for the rims and some number plate lights and a bit of a wiring tidy up and its good to go to see my friendly WoF man, then Van-cessories
  5. azzurro
    TOTP!
  6. azzurro
    how did i miss that 510!
  7. azzurro
    oh yep, mrs grant too?
  8. azzurro
    Yay, Burgers! Am bringing some speakers for chees- and a compressor for brockzilla. Anyone want anything else (see my lock up purge thread)? Tell me know cause I gotta grab it tonight.
  9. azzurro
    Went and had a gander at this and put a deposit on it about a month ago, and finally organised myself to go get it yesterday. Formerly owned by ESKIN8R who i think originally chopped it up and put it together and then Zebra Dude, who got it painted and sorted the draw bar etc. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/26688-zebra-dudes-esky-van-trailer/ (photos are down) I knew i was in the right place! (you will know their works by the trail of bodies) Needed the lights wiring up, + some beers and Ben didnt finish till 6, so by the time it was ready to roll it was pretty late! Ran the gauntlet no troubles at all, and tows well, will go even better with some weight in it. I also managed to convince Ben to through in some schwweeeet rims. In case you are not a wheel aficiondo, they are * 13 x 6JJ * CHEVIOT * TURBO * Anyway today started getting into it, cut down the roofies from the van ( ) hung a gas bottle from a handy attachment and pondered on how to cram a LWB sized vans worth of camping stuff into half an Escort... Solution - Make the small thing bigger with Extentions! Roll * 13 x 6JJ * CHEVIOT * TURBO * to entice only the hottest classiest babes into the stabbin cabin. Need to buy some hardware to mount the doors then start thinking about the interior. Its basically going to be a bedroom for the boy + bathroom and kitchen that I can tow with the 2300, 125 or my daily
  10. azzurro
    Plates means 'isitinyet'? (Sorry) Looking good brother. Get them Springs in. Hope it fits!
  11. azzurro
    you should stop giving away pussy and start selling it to pay for best Russian parts mr fleabeard
  12. azzurro
    I was able to spend a bit of time on this over this long weekend and close up the rear quarter. First removed the remains of the inner skin and replace it with a single skin. Like the other side, instead of recreating the factory rust trap, i replicated the existing 'shelf' but made it an extra 5mm or so wider to attach directly to the outer skin. inner plate ready to bend to outer 1/4 profile inner bent up to outer profile. + a wee rebate for the bumper mount outer 1/4 from under neath (bumper rebate patch from the original just tacked on) hole which was cut from the original outer skin. It would probably have been easier to just tap it into the nice new steel given the state of it, and the amount of faffing blowing holes in it but its done now Next, make the lower panel to fit. A shrinker/stretcher would be awesome, but this tuned out ok. 1/4 fit looks ok test fit #4358754785 showing off my pie cuts and blow outs that make this shape 1/4 fit looks good, time to weld. I like to have the patch just 'fall' into place with no more than about 1.5mm gap at the most- if you have to force it it wont sit right once its welded and might warp - too big a gap and its a pain to weld and it will warp due to the amount of heat needed to bridge a big gap 1/4 tacked in, this is about 3 passes, just closing up the gaps each time letting it cool be fore stating the next pass. These big panels will warp very easily. 1/4 welds smoothed and ready for some primer Also fixed the rust patch in the sill, good to have a few patches on the go when welding as you can swap between them and avoid over doing it and warping the panel. insider the sill end, not bad for 50 years. Dunno why it rusted out above? sill patches tacked in And all ground back plus smoothed with the 40 grit sander and ready for some primer So that leaves only the front drivers floor and fender to do now rust wise, but I cant make a start on that untill the diff is back in and on its wheels. Axle seals turned up, so swapped them out, changed the pinion seal (the nut was suspiciously easy to get off so will get a new one before i put it back in) with some RTV behind the washer (to stop the leak into the flange). My handbrake pads and diff hard lines need picking up, and i need to get the leaves reset over the next week or so, and meanwhile have some crusty diff/suspension parts to clean.
  13. azzurro
    Oh, missed all the discussione! Thanks Boes, shit is coming on pretty good now with the ol' rust, pretty happy with how its turning out TBH. Based on where and how its rusted in the arse, and the state of the tow bar mounting area I think that it was actually used by Nautilus Marine to launch and/or tow a few boats before it was laid up in the Rutherford Collection. Wagnats 2017 is the target, but I think it will be on the road before then. Next bits are: - rear quarter (at least a week), - rear of drivers sill (not long), - drivers floor/sill (a long time - need to cut apart parts car too) - drivers front fender/headlights (a couple of weeks) - prep and paint (roof off white, rest blue - undecided on plan of attack with the blue here - doors don't need any work, but will look funny on a 'brand new' body - may top coat with cheap spay cans which will chalky up quickly) - reassemble (a month?) - electrics (oh fucken lol - this thing is VERY advanced for a 1959 designed Italian car, so many lights and switches! (and horrific electrical circuitry!)) - wof?
  14. azzurro
    This week, - ive ordered some diff/axle seals from Italy, they should turn up soon - dropped of my handbrake pads to get rebonded + new diff hard lines for the brakes - searched but did not find a spring place to have the rear leaves reset 2" lower - better luck next time maybe - fitted the brand new KYB eye-eye shocks i picked up for cheaps from the Kumeu Hot Rod show - they are perfect except for being slightly longer (~20mm) at extension and compression than the factory ones, but at least they move and they pretty much bolted up (swapped the crush wasters for the Fiat ones) also continued with fixing rust. Lower valance all back together Boot seal plugged on Ground back slop some primer on So thats the boot area except for the chassis rail 'lid' which ill leave off for now - i want to install some sort of crush tube/gusset thing for the tow bar to stop it fucking out like the original set up did.
  15. azzurro
  16. azzurro
    Made quite a bit of progress on the rusty hole othis week hole made a lot bigger had a few people at OS Nats say that they wished they had the tools to do body work, and that i must have some mean ones. Ah, no not really! my grandads hammers, some gilbow shears and a vice. oh and cut of wheels and flap discs! But ill show you how i do it. mmm whats another for pirate treasure? This is my template. Yum for small bits like this (whicn is most rustwork usually) just picked apart, cut off the rust and remake, Use cereal boxes as template material as it bends like metal but is easier to cut and trim. Once the carboard fits without forcing it, transfer it to steel repeat the folds, trim till it 'falls' into place this is the boot floor corner - bit of a wiz with teh power file and thats ready to be stuck on This is the basic process but a bigger simple shape template made and sheet ready to cut- i use some Gilbow shears i got at a second hand shop, they are great. sheet being folded, on a bit of I-beam. Just tappy tap tap with the hammer, all of a sudden it will be done. For small bits i use the vice, but man I wish i had a folder, much neater (and quicker!) valance section nd a bit from the base of the d pillar remade from "templates" valance etc ready to weld underneath also tapped in the stenthening indent by clamping the edge on the i-beam and using a cold chisel, You could make a template to tap around too, but meh it was a square. Again just tappy tap tapperoo till its suddenty done.
  17. azzurro
    At the lock up now. Keen for car museum then museum of car movies
  18. azzurro
    Had the day off monday to recover from the weekends Nats shananigans, and inspired by all the freaken sweet wagons, dug a bit deeper into this one while paint was drying on the dissasembled diff parts. Start putting the valance out To reveal what i think is the reason for (most) of the rust in this corner - the big rusty hole is right behind the wheel and would have let water and crap into all the rust traps pre built into this thing. Bleugh. So many intersecting parts here. To access this from behind/underneath i need to get into this corner. This is also pooped. As is the liner/double skin behind it, but not as bad as the other side. On teh other side i deleted the inside skin. Undecided on removing this one as yet. I probably should. Bit more out. In some good news, the front of the wheel arch and the arch itself is actually really good. Just a wee hole to deal with on there and a patch in the sill (obviosly!) The bottom of the sill is great too. Two full dust pans full of crap and this removed: Still need to pick the rest of that corner of the rear valance & the end of the chassis rail apart, its going to be a bit tricky to put back together as i have to chop out all the datums before i can get started putting fresh metal back in
  19. azzurro
    Old School Nats last weekend in National Park and visited a friend at Horopito while i was down there: Ol' mate Colin was very surprised to have someone interested in it Ol Barry: "Do you have one of these?!" Not so old Barry: "Yes, two, + 2 more tail gates making 4", lewl. Got all four monsoon sheilds and the dizzy, shields were cheap, but the dizzy was not (check out the drive!), but happy on average Cap is 'new' and my one is missing one of the cap clips, and spare parts are nice to have. Apart from those bits the car is pretty rooted. Still has its back brakes (I should have grabbed the hand brake pads!) but i doubt i would have been able to jack it out of its hole or get the wheels off.
  20. azzurro
    Come back via sh16. Much nicer drive in a zebradude special
  21. azzurro
    Ill be here. Im in muriwai which may be a bit of a haul depending where you are staying
  22. azzurro
    just the turbines with tyres fitted. Or some factory fiat steels no tyres. or heaps of 125 parts & random enginey bits lol The turbines are pretty light but with the tyres they will be over 23kg im sure
  23. azzurro
    oh schweet. did you want some rims to take home? Or other stuff? shame about the 1600ness of your block, (1608? whats the block code? ) as that's the 'old' or early 80mm bore size (from the original 1432 and then 1608cc) the bigger 2L 84mm bore size was used right up into the late 90's incl 16V Turbos and so the available head gaskets are much much better.
  24. azzurro
    i enjoy your masochism immensely. and your love of big booty bitches wagons.
  25. azzurro
    Been overseas for a few weeks, but got back on Saturday, Sunday got back into the rust bucket. Only one major drivetrain parts assembly remains to to be unbolted from the body: geddoudofit Axle seals leak, (have new ones 'in stock') but so does the pinion seal which i dont have . Pinion is leaky to the extent that on removing the diff/driveshaft flange it was literally full of old diff oil which is always nice, but on the positive side has also kept the underside pretty well rust proofed . The parts car wont save me this time as has no spare diff head to swap in, and i also hope the wheel bearaings are ok (as retaining collars are NLA?) and im not keen on speding up large for a full diff rebuild (the old mark and slightly over tighten will do for now i think!) Ill also replace the hard brake lines while im there (only has a soft line from the body to the diff tee), and add lowering blocks & new bumps Anyway with that off i could play with the ride height (the rear is about 3" lower at rear from where it was sitting before the front torsion bars are wound up as far as they will go (lower arms are just above horizontal)
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