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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. Plenty of barrys and a few hard out pig hunting bros stopped by to say they liked the trailer. Even some foreigners! Did you stop? No, I just drove by. We only stopped in gissy for about an hour for some brunch then hit the road to get back to feed the cat, and sorry i missed picking up that engine for ya. I need the rear suspension mounting bar thing (that the struts and sway bar connect to) and the top strut mounts. I have some strut from a Cortina to fit but not all the other gubbins. We would have been missioning from Whakatane to Te Araroa
  2. so yeah this is sweet as. this is the war-rig in gissy on the way back. never did end up travelling light! 3 bikes, 3 surfboards, wetties and towels, 2 foam mattresses, 4 pillows and blankets, 20l water, 15kg gas bottle, 2 tents & one ezyup, 2 folding tables, 4 chairs, 3 dozen beers and ciders, 2 tool boxes, jack and spare tyre, cooker, pots pans cups pegs dishwash... loaded up it doesnt need lowering. could do with a sway bar to even it up off kerbs, but it tows really well. Had to roll the guards with a stick from the beach in the campground, lewl now on the look out for a late model high top lwb van...
  3. Proper job man. Looks like some of the whale blubber oil has leaked or mummified and some water got in. Take it apart clean it out and put a modern oil/grease of the correct viscosity back in with a new gasket. Then forget about it for another 50 years
  4. Drag Day was on this Saturday. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/53865-oldschool-christmas-tree-drag-day-mark-4-december-10th-meremere/page-24 Unfortunately the 125 was having some electrical issues (deadish battery/no start) so i didn't do any runs and ended up organizing the staging all day. Great spot to watch from, and lots of banter over the head mics. Those dudes see EVERYTHING. Anyway on the way home it disgraced itself even further with a sudden rear brake lock up on the motorway, and pedal went rock hard. Was hot enough to burn my finger when i touched the caliper. Couple of OSGCs on the way back to town also stopped to see if i was ok, and i ended up a little tipsy by the time the tow turned up, by which time not only had the brake had freed itself up but the car started up and drove onto the truck I suspect either the caliper handbrake mech or something hydraulic up stream of it, as it has sometimes been slow to release when I haven't driven it for a while before (a few pulls on the hand brake loosen it up), but this was the first time it has happened while driving, and the first time i could feel it in the pedal (ie just fine then *on*, and I hadnt even touched the brake!) I pulled the offending caliper off today, nothing obviously untoward, so re greased the slides and boshed it back together. The brakes have been a bit odd lately, and as I already have a brake line kit incoming as the hard lines are getting a bit rusty, I will do a big brake refresh (new master, pads and rotors, and swap out the booster) at the same time. Silly old bugger is getting jealous of the wagon i think.
  5. Pulled the starter apart, all seems pretty good, other than the odd-man-out bush which should explain the intermittent issues - hole is slightly different so i think someone put 3 (of 4) new bushes in at some point, or one was busted and they only had an old spare or something Rebuild kit for the DCD turned up so that got a refresh too, not that there was much wrong with it but new bits cant hurt. Ive managed to heft the gear box in too, so will continue to assemble the engine bay this week, excepting the starter, pending a delivery of new bushes and a few other little things (smashed a few senders getting the engine out) which will hopefully arrive before xmas.
  6. heh, yes, lots of parts binning in these era of fiats, lucky becasue i have bought a lot of bits very much cheaper that suit these smaller models as well as the 2300 ('baby ferrarri' label on the 2300S Coupe attracts a tax on parts, that doesnt apply to 126 or FSO 125p's ) They were fans of not fixing things that were not broke either, see the starter pic in my last post, almost bolt in between a design first used in the mid 50's rwd push rod (fiat 1300) to the late 90's front wheel drive twin cam with electronic ignition and fuel injection (lancia delta GTI)
  7. Good luck! Need to put bonnet on to maintain secret sleeper identity. With the bonnet off everyone can see what a hot rod it is with your massive air filter and all
  8. Saturday Morning! Fffff. I had my honing all done by then and would have had to go back into big town to get it and that would have cut into my 'not being in town' time. Visor is pretty flash alright, shame its still yours (hope you like the paint job i did on your visor )
  9. Ended up picking up a three legged hone on the way home from work on Friday and spent a sunny weekend putting this back together between surfs. A flex-hone was preferred but they are not existent in NZ on short notice, but are readily avalaible on Ebay, but aint nobody got time fo dat. I honed it just enough to remove the glazing, so a few bits saved for a future proper rebore, "one day" The rust spots in Cylinder 4: Ring wear marks at the top of cyl 6. The flat hone stones makes them look much worse than they are (flex hone would have hidden them), as I can barely see any variation with a straight edge (you can aslo see the hone 'just' scratching them in a couple of spots, so only a couple of thou) but they are there all the same. Just hope they dont 'catch' the new rings too bad. I used the Geotze expander rings of my choice of two sets (the other a more 'normal' set of Grant rings) - i figured with the wear on the cylinders + a hone, that all the expansion i could get would be appreciated. Ring gaps were also slightly above spec meaning the engine is a bit more worn than STD, but the blow by cant be any worse than it was! Made a small dowel from a brass barb from a busted fuel pump to help line up the head on the block and keep the head gasket in place (headless twin cam head bolts I use for the 125 also used in the bigger diameter head bolt holes when dropping the head on) And ended Sunday with the thing back in the hole after resetting the tappets etc. Much easier with the engine out (there is no crank nut to turn on the crank nose due to the centrifugal oil filter) While its out Im also working on a few improvements The 2300 Starter is a bit hit and miss even with a 'new' (ex 125) solenoid - the Delta GTI (might be Croma) starter will 'bolt up' but the pinion has 10 teeth to the 2300s 9, and the teeth will foul on the flywheel without a 5mm spacer, which will also need shaping to fit in the slightly larger diameter hole to help the 2 bolts hold it in place. Alternatively looks like the motor mounting diameter in the aluminium 'nose' is the same, so might be able to swap the bodies over, and maybe the pinions/teeth too? Anyway, something to keep in mind for the future.
  10. Sharn discount? $5200! Tell 'im ees dreamin.
  11. Nice work! Cant believe how similar in design concept this is to my 2300 wagon, differs slightly in execution but definitely very similar ideas about how to best put together a car. I guess Pininfarina needed to make some money flogging off the same 3 box design a few times to save up for the coke to fuel all their concept car + model photo shoots a few years later.
  12. Be cool if you could ask for sure! I have found a place in Aussie with one in stock (ex UK). Also a dude locally who can get them in (from same place in UK that has a mould). Screens themselves are $4-700 which is fine, but getting them here is big $$). Ive tried the big NZ screen distributors but they don't respond to emails, and there were only ever 100ish cars in NZ that needed one, most would be gone to the big rust pile in the sky, so it will be dust collecting in the back of the rearmost corner of the oldest warehouse if they are anywhere. Unfortunately I cant claim the screen on insurance for them to sort it out as its unwarranted/registered (on hold) and ive not insured it yet
  13. This is the worst cylinder, (#4) the horizontal markings are just that, rust marks from where the piston was parked, and I cant feel them. The vertical score that ends just above the marks in the center just catches my fingernail. I think a quick hone and new rings, while not ideal will be fine for now Crank is very good, factory markings Factory stampings on the block, never skimmed I degreased the whole block and gave it a water blast with hot water. OMG the rusty crap that came out of the jackets was next level! After that a Quick clean up with a paint stripping disc on the drill: Ive cleaned up all the components and once i get a hone it will be reassembly time. Cant wait.
  14. This week I've been disconnecting stuff and finally got the box and engine out today. Pulled the head off complete and got into the bottom end to see whats up with low compression on 3. Err, that'll do it! An average of slightly greater than one broken ring per piston... (piston 6->1) Anyway, other than a broken ring on almost every cylinder (and all 3 on 3!), the bottom end seems good, if a bit grubby. - all original STD sized bearings, big ends look like new, mains have some slight wear (engine had excellent oil pressure) - all original pistons, on piston 6 the first compression ring groove is a bit splayed, i guess from the broken ring, other pistons seem ok. - cylinders all look really good with no lipping, apart from some horizontal lines halfway down most cylinders but esp cylinder 4 (probably from water sitting on the ring when it was parked up), and the odd vertical score that i can just feel with my fingernail. Ideally it needs a rebore and upsized pistons, decked block etc , but I have been looking for new pistons (in any size) since i got the car and no luck to date. As i have a couple of sets of std piston rings 'in stock' I will probably just give the cylinders a quick wazz with a flexi-hone, give it a good clean and put it back together with new rings, maybe main bearings and big ends if i can find them, but i might just keep collecting bits as i find them for a proper rebuild 'one day', cause im quite keen to actually drive this bloody thing, and the Kumeu Hot Rod Show is in January. Also 125 got a WoF, so that's summer driving sorted, and OldSchool Drag Day on the 10th December
  15. >14.4, sitting around 14.7v at the battery (which is in the boot) 14.8 at the batt terminal on the alternator. To be fair perhaps I should try the other $3 regulator I got in the packet from ali-express, but it was no worse than the original one so IDK. Electrics = Alien water
  16. good idea peeps! Chris, im in need of alternator work, mine seems to be overcharging even with a new voltage regulator. Something diodes something something?
  17. Have been making a box of stuff to take to swaps too. Will hopefully have the wagon engine back in by then
  18. fine work comrade. If you cant fix it with a hammer you have a ideological problem that can only be resolved by a long stint of hard labour. Or Vodka.
  19. Bit more polishing/sanding runs and putting the last of the bling on, looks nice out in the sun for a change The short drive and out of the shed confirms the engine has to come out, it starts and revs ok, idles away, quiet tappets, but blowby is silly, just steamy/smoking out the engine bay and a good coaster sized blob of oil under the bell housing (that only leaks when engine is running). Lesson learned - i should have pulled it completely apart to check and clean properly when i had the sump of the first time, i checked the bores and a couple of bearings and just assumed . So good timing for the main parts needed turned up from Mr Fiat ,Headgaskets x2, rear main seal (x2) and some random coolant hoses to buff out the shipping. I already have a set of std NOS rings i found cheap on ebay. IN winscreend news, AALAWS put me onto a chap who can get Screens made new (custom tinted) from a place in the UK for ~$500-650 which seems fair, BUT + ~$2200 for custom crate, insurance, shipping, GST and etc. Chucking even one additional screen in would halve the landed per unit cost, but even then its still $1800 bucks and a 12 week wait Fingers crossed for a NOS or second hand one a bit closer to home. I will try an actual phone call to the big windscreen warehouse places as their 'contact us' forms dont seem to generate any responses, but i have sent a rough template off too a guy who knows a guy with a shed full of old FIAT screens (amongst other stuff). I need to do some work on the 125 for drag day/wof , and have a big tidy out the lockup for a shuffle around( get the parts wagon in and parts 125 out stripped and off to the scrappers), so i dont think i will make too much more substantive progress on this for a while as im waiting to find a screen anyway and at least its complete, looks cool, and can move itself around.
  20. Stupid rust. So how big is the engine in there now?
  21. Soaked Cylinder #3 with some kero and 2 stroke oil (no ATF to hand) for a couple of days and got it warm enough for the fan to kick in for the first time (yay, it works!) when i rolled it outside for a wash and some wet sanding. Still 30-90 PSI depending on RPM, (other 5 are 130+) unsurprisingly engine runs better with it disconnected from the air filter. Most of that is steam/condensation not oil, but it is fair flying out! Also fitted Jed's old visor up, needed a bit of aggressive bending and the making of one clamp, but no trimming. It fits like it was made for it! Underside from inside Outside getting a very lazy wet sanding to 1500 grit. I have an electric buffer for the polishing stage. Used this in anger for the first time today, found it in the inorganics up the road a few months ago
  22. Few more little annoying and fiddly things done, list is getting very small now, pretty much - sort out windscreen, - get keys made for the external locks - wet sand/buff/polish the paint - start test driving not necessarily in that order Borrowed my neighbours compression tester again, 1, 2 and 6 are really good, 3, 4, and 5, ahh not so much. 3 is definitely the worst - 0-30psi cold even with extra oil in the cylinder, and it idles like its on 5 and removing #3 lead the least difference at idle but the engine does smooth out with some revs. This showed up as 3 4 and 5 that had much better pressure when the engine revved a bit - Hope i wasn't just measuring crank case pressure Will just try for a few longer runs soon and just maybe a bit of actual driving might sort it out I lapped the valves when I had the head off, a couple looked like they could have been replaced, but lapped up ok. I should have pulled the pistons out in retrospect, but all the bores looked good and I dint have bearings (also looked good - oil pressure is fine) or rings at the time. Best case, valve timing improves the compression, and a bit more hot running loosens the rings . Worst case I get to pull it out, strip it down again and install the NOS rings I now have + new valve guides (with proper seals) and new bearings and...and ....
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