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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. azzurro
    thanks! The thread is a dictatorship tho, you only see what i show you Also, no.
  2. azzurro
    Some of my Ebay stuff has started arriving too, This sweet (english) factory manual (most of the engine pictures are from the Fiat 1300/1500 manual and the body stuff from the 125), it is however missing any electrical diagrams, which is the main thing i actually wanted And a 1:43 model. The canopy and pizza cutters didnt last long Weirdly the number plate is almost an exact match, only 1 character is not shared.
  3. azzurro
    last of the rust, saving the best for last, etc. I started on the drivers side, thinking i would just let in a few patches, but after a while they all joined up and i just did what i originally planned to do with rust cuts from a sedan floor and cut a 100mm wide strip out, only difference is making my own patches. All these photos are from the passenger side, which was a whole lot quicker and tidier cause i just hacked it straight out instead of faffing around. Yeah, nah: Dad, I dug a hole. The rest of the floor on both sides is sweet. whipped this patch and the lip for the cab floor that came off with the old one in about 10 minutes, but took another hour of trimming and bending to fit nice first pass weld and grind, with only a few pinholes to redo Then primer, and black zinc and then seam sealer patted on to replicate the factory stuff, then underbody over the top and redo the whole under side So that is all the rust sorted Used up the last of the underbody schutz on the arches and the rear of the cab And tray back on Just need to - seam seal around the roof and etc - paint the patches on the body work which are in primer and the seam seal, (will probably just rattlecan for now) - reinstall the interior (and passenger door) - install ignition switch (when it turns up tout le chemin de la France) - install new outer headlamps - install front lip - do a skid - get a WoF. - go to drag day So far its cost me (other than the original purchase price) just slightly over what the PO wanted for the hotwires
  4. azzurro
    dude, thats boss level rust!. Very tidy work too, be a shame to grind all them lovely welds off!
  5. azzurro
    Oh, @EURON8 also gave his credit card details and home address to some russian hackers and in return they emptied a warehouse of lada goodies from the motherland to store more bitcoins. I jumped on his freight bandwagon and gots me one of these sweet lip spoilers
  6. azzurro
    Then i founds some holes in the gutter 'hiding' under some clear silicone: Chopchop I purposely kept my cut below the swage line as it made the patch easier to make and blend in and reduces the chance of warping a lot, even if it was a bit tighter with the torch tip. Got some rust kill and primer in there while i could, always a bit of a tradeoff as the stuff you jam in can contaminate the weld and make it more prone to rust out again vs slowing down or stopping the cancer thats already there that will definitely rust out again! CAD then steel, A flattened bit of old copper pipe makes a good bridge/heatsink and saves grinding the back side of the weld flat, as the weld wont stick to it Bam! and the rust is gone Few more blebs and holes sorted too while i was there I pretty much only have the back of the cab floor to do now, and ive had a bit more of a poke at it and i think ill just patch the worst of it to get er done as its not that bad really , and keep the floor sections when i eventually collect and chop up my red parts car for that 'one day when i do it properly'. Future me can suck it.
  7. azzurro
    And some rust and stuff around the drivers door The mirror mounting points were, ahhh, not rusty but may as well have been. No access from the inside, so i chopped it out. Found some RivNuts at Supercheap (no gun but!!!) so tacked some in my patch before install so it matches the passenger side (which needs a couple of the extra holes welded up too, but already has the rivnuts) Knocked back the welds and done
  8. azzurro
    Heaps of little things, - got the stereo/gauges installed and working (except the oil pressure - need a 1/4 NPT to 12x1.5 thread adapter to put the china sender in the standard Fiat sender hole, or a Fiat guage i guess) - swapped out the old secondaries for some from the stash, factory 125, old holey rubbing and bent ones on left, new hotness on right made a few free horse powers before installing them with the power file! Lot quieter now so i can now hear the valve shims tapping... My Ladapower box turned up, - so far ive fixed the steering column bushes (nice and tight now) - replaced all the dash panel lamps - installed the new gear lever and bushes, and rubber boots so it doest fall out nor can you see the road though the hole - replaced a couple of other random firewall boots - replaced flasher unit - diagnosed the no start issue to the ignition switch (same as 80s/90s Ducato/Renault/Citroen van, so only 28Euro with freee shipping instead of 90Euro + for a Fiat 127/128/132 listed item!) - installed a battery holddown and tidies up some engine bay wiring - found the factory hub caps sit flush on the meshies, yeah or nah?
  9. azzurro
    Used up a whole 1L canister of Dinotrol underbody on the front half when i got home tonight, should keep it nice for a while, as well as hiding my secret excavations. Ill cavity wax in the corners and access holes tomorrow and then its off the stands. My Aliexpress oder turned up too, so I finished off wiring up the centre console on the bench. Sound Pressure, Oil Pressure, Engine Pressure and Electrical Pressure Gauges ready to go. This combination of Chinas finest automotive accessories (head unit, 3x 2" gauges cluster, and a 2" Tach) cost me US$62 including shipping, and im quite pleased with my purchase so far, and i very much like the factory ''2FM + 5 AM Station Memory' looks, even the wonky chrome kinda suits. Mechless Head unit has bluetooth, Aux and USB inputs and a tuner, and has 4 channel RCA outputs if the 4x60W (lololol) onboard amp turns out to be total pants, but i dont imagine the bottom tier 90s Pioneer box speakers ill jam under the seats will reveal much of a soundstage. TBH ill just be happy of the Aux-in works and the USB port charges my phone.
  10. azzurro
    I then moved onto the base of the a-pillar, which is another common rust spot, mainly due to being commonly used as a jacking point when it isn't (the thing with a hole in it is an assembly jig point). You can see the lip all bent up and the bit behind it all holey. chopped it out, the bit behind (the passender floor panel) and all the other areas are in good nick. buzzbuzz grind and primer. Then the other Drivers side, which has been jacked on but was nowhere near as bad, a-pillar is good too I will cover most of this in seam sealer to build up the texture of the factory undercoat before putting a fresh coat of undercoat over the hole lot. Only rust remaining is in the rear of the cab, but im not sure ill get to Hamilton to get my 125 shell and back (1 weekend) , cut out the floors in both, (1 weekend) weld them in etc etc (1 weekend) before drag day which is 4 weeks away, so pondering a quick bodge to squeak it though a wof (maybe!) till the new year when ill have more time to do a good job Ive got a lada power order of various bushes and stuff, and an ali-express order that should arrive next week to finish off the interior before then too.
  11. azzurro
    this week i finished off a few jobs on the list, started on the a-pillar, as i thought it would only need a little patch. which is nice because this area is a common rust spot with the pointy fender angles trapping much up there and then rusting into the scuttle then i found it has been leaded before. and there was a big hole on the underside letting water up into the scuttle, so off with this whole corner (this is about the 5th time ive done almost this exact cut). as per usual the triangle bit had a hole in it letting water from the front wheel up into the a-pillar. Nice REmade that bit and repaired the scuttle and fender corners buzzed back on and a coat of primer. Just needs a skim of bog, but that can wait
  12. azzurro
    other than the gearbag, is the engine tiptop? To wring as much as you can from the small 4 pot staying on top of general maintenance having new points/plugs/dizzy cap/leads oil and filters (esp air) as well as timing and carb tuned could help? Dodgy wiring, janky fuel lines and etc is often an overlooked issue in older stuff with plenty of previous owners and roadside fixes and could make a big difference. A 1hp improvement by loosing a slight misfire when you only have 50hp on a good day is a 2% improvement !
  13. azzurro
    My order from fiatparts.co.nz turned up on Thursday, with my crank seal so got the cam belt on and engine all buttoned up Changed the spark plugs. Hopefully now that the carb has fewer fuel leaks and no air leaks and doenst really need the choke they will be grey next time i do a plug chop I had some NOS Beck-Arnley leads, purple to match the sides and interior stripe, lol. Also chopped the cam cover so it can come off without draining the radiator Swapped in the Pertronix fitted dizzy i had on my 125 before i went to Digiplex, and a new coil, and tidied some wiring. New oil and filter, fitted radiator, filled with water and a bit of simple green for now to clean it out a bit more. Replaced the mechanical fuel pump, turns out the non-OEM bolts didnt have quite enough thread to tighten up properly, so hopefully sorted a big oil leak too. And picked up my box of carbs, L-R DCHE, same as whats on there, but very crusty, will try swapping the few bits that still leak on the fitted one DCD, i had cleaned and reassembled this in 2014 and it is 'OK', according to the vivid on it, DMS, clean body with no bits, i sold my complete, but a bit worn one to NickJ, but i think i still have jets and stuff to make it work, but the linkage is a 'pull' instead of 'push' like the other two, but i have linkages from when i ran one on my 125. This is the best carb by far, but needs the most work to fit. In my order from Mal, i also got some diff seals, it is a 125 diff, he just sent me the wrong ones (131 gbox seals), so the axle is refitted, diff refilled with oil. Finally removed the rear bumper (one bolt required 4 jointed arms or removal of the gas tank to reach) and did a couple more patches hiding behind it, and bogged them up, putty all the wee bits etc then primered it to grey (last before real paint), stoked to get that finally done. I then took it for a burn up the road to turn it around so i can fix the rust in the front, and see how all my work went on the engine etc (great!). Next jobs: - cavity wax rear of tray and reassemble tins, tail gate and tonneau etc - replace the holey front half of the exhaust (have an ok spare) and fit a joiner (its currently 1 piece...) - fix rust behind front wheels - fix rust in passenger a-pillar - fix rust in cab floor/base, either collecting my old red 125 shell back from Hamilton for cuts, or make my own. - wof - drag day... - 1000 other little things
  14. azzurro
    I removed the crappy stereo and looked at the wiring, sighed and pushed it back out of sight and started putting the front half of the interior back in over some 6mm foam which makes it a bit nicer to sit in while faffing about The old stereo was just sitting in a big hole in the dash as the factory (single centre) speaker cover is all broken too and my spare headunit (CD) was too long, so ive ordered a cheap 'retro' mechless bluetooth jobbie off aliexpress, as well as some gauges, (RPM and Voltage), and some other shit. To prep for this, i made up a dash panel for the stereo to mount in and ive had this cool gauge pod thing for ages and i think it suits the brittle black plastic aesthetic that the interior has going on (the screws are fake, lol) I only had to trim this massive gash a wee bit (on the bottom half) to get it in Bit of black formica over the top and jobs a goodun pending the headunits arrival. Will probably run oil pressure, a 52mm tach and voltage as the dash water temp gauge works fine. Sorry about the carpy photos it was dark.
  15. azzurro
    this is actually barry genius*, its easy to work and shape holes to suit, and dead flat when installed, will insulate from heat soak and over time will expand to fill any gap and prevent airleaks. *Untill it catches on fire
  16. azzurro
    fuck yeah, nice one galaxienoob! love the colour
  17. azzurro
    only took one pic Will grab the Mrs phone and get her scooter shenannigans videos.
  18. azzurro
    Ive also been doing mechanical stuff too, new engine mounts (and transmission mount too), they were all soft and bung, so should tighten everything up alot. got carried away, some rustoleum spray paint i got to try is not a match to the body so trying to use it up... New Starting reassembly, (after a waterblast and lots of degreaser!) incl new shaft seals to hopefully keep the oil inside. New waterpump , tensioner fitted and cambelt to go on too I dont have a crank nose seal so thats ordered for next week, so stuck here for now Also - Drained the radiator and removed it , cleaned out out the overflow (gross) , - drained the engine oil (gross) and filter, - checked the gearbox oil (way overfull, but clean), - drained the diff oil (gross) and removed the passenger side axle to replace the leaky seal but the 125 seals (30*48.6*6) wont fit, but 124 ones do (30*45*6) do, so i have them coming next week to finish that off too. The diff may therefore be a 124 type with 125 mounts selded on, if so then a Russian LSD could be a goer at some point. Tomorrow im heading up to storage to get rid of some stuff and bring some back down, will grab my 34DMS carb as the one on there is still leaking gas pretty bad even tho it works quite well otherwise, and will remove the mechanical pump that the electric one pumps into, that also leaks.
  19. azzurro
    Bog, is boring so skipped ahead abit, the spare door cards were in the way, so sapped them over. This is what i had, which were ok apart from the massive holes and wobbles. And this is what ive got, 2x passenger side 125S (for Special!) door cards, complete with GOLD AND PURPLE trim. Passenger side swapped right in Drivers was a bit more of a mission. I ended up ripping the vinyl off to reverse the door card to reuse the factory holes for the door pop-clips and stuff, but better than before, and thats a job that is now finished! While i was in there I have also - cut down some foam for the underlay - removed the shitty stereo (will probably put a head unit back in with speakers in the kick panels, and gauges under) - removed the heater box - so i could access the hood opening mech (now sorted)
  20. azzurro
    item 1 on the list above, section behind the rear wheel. From bottom to top, rusty section, CAD, and the patches 90% ready to weld in Then welded up the pie cuts and slits, checking against the car as it can warp, then welded most of it in from the inside where i could. Then my welder started playing up, all pops and burn backs and no penetration Turn out it was the new 5kg wire roll was quite a bit heavier than a nearly empty one, and got the wire speed set properly, after some long overdue maintenance. Ground most of that off and ran over it again with the revived sizzle stick, ground most of that off too, and here we are SO thats the rear half de-rusted, started on the first round of bog, and washed the dust down with a beer i got just so i could use my new opener
  21. azzurro
    personally id grind that back and slap some paint on it before ol' Mate sees it edit beaten!
  22. azzurro
    http://www.kumeuhotrodshow.co.nz/about.html Keeeeeeeeeeen. Its only down the road from me, AND i will in the country for it this year. Woot!
  23. azzurro
    Ooh. A 2300 coupe! rare bird for sure. Thats 2 i know of in nz. Wheres the engine? Is it an 'S'? Looks like a proper fiat pest with the yellow 850 on the right and is that big silver car a 130 sedan on the left? (Would love a 130 coupe!)
  24. azzurro
    I actually bought this not just because its cool, but because it was a similar price to a decent trailer, but with the benefit of being self propelled! Looking forwards to smug facing at the dump as i reverse up the small gaps between all the jack-knifed trailer + modern ute combos
  25. azzurro
    more rust. I always think it wont take very long but it does. I tend to work in sections and batch things to the tools needed - saves trying to find that tool while your lying around on the ground, as its always in your hand. . Eg mark sections, drill all the spot welds, cut all the holes with the slit disc, tidy with the other grinder ends and powerfile etc. Then make all the CAD templates, cut all the steel, then fine work to get teh patch to suit the hole, weld, grind, weld pinholes, grind, sand, primer. Also means i can do a bunch of quieter stuff after work etc and do all the welding and especially grinding in a single annoying spurt on the weekend instead of a little all the time Section A Wheel Arches. Figured id get this done so i can loosely fit the tins and start pile crap back in there. Pretty much 3 matching areas both sides, plus a couple of random blebs out of shot Section B: Rear Valance etc Took the tow bar off to get into this area, this section is 'closed' (lol) from road debris form the wheels and tray areas and does not have very big drain holes (there are some humps in the inner section that his plugs to that face forwards...) so trapped wet grime sitting on the flat sections has made its own way out. First batch of patches. I should have replaced the whole bottom section right across TBH, i added a couple drain holes in the big patch which should help let dirt and stuff out (and cavity wax in). I will also seam seal before i underspreay as there isnt much on this car, and some of the gaps are pretty bad! Moving around to the passenger side, thought id get away with filling a few pinholes, but ive since done what i should have done the first time, and cut the corner off like onm the drivers side, as well as extended the big patch in the middle both ways. You can also see the strengthener on the flank where trapped muck and holed the side, below the bumper, from the inside out, and it was just the same on the other side. Got all the remaining patches for this area ready to weld in during the week some time. Remaining rust (i know about!) to be cut out, which isnt that much if you say it fast is: - 1 tricky to fold section if the rear lower corner of rear passenger wheel arch (just in front of the mudflap) - 2 & 3 holes/bands in rust trap factory positioning things that look like jacking points but are not... of outer floor section behind front wheels, both sides - 4 rear cab/floor area (will probably use rust cuts here) pass and drivers - 5 lower rear tray to tailgate seal lip, but can leave it till after summer/WoF , and will get a section bent up so i can spot it in easy, like the 2300 section in the same place
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