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azzurro

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Everything posted by azzurro

  1. Nothing i can do about the carb till the new year, but a few other things can be sorted. WoF man said the front wheel bearings were borderline and iit started making terrible noises at drag day, but they seemed ok on a jack. Had some in stock, as the 2300 takes the same size and is a bit grumbly too, but not as bad so i havnt done it yet, good thing too Easy job other than getting the old races out, which were pretty bad... While im in there... Swapped out the 2300/1500 and 125p steering idler whcih just has a shaft in a bush For the old one off my 125 that has a leaky shaft. These ones have an oil damper, i cleaned it out and half filled with grease and topped up moreys so hopefully it wont leak I pulled out the steering box too, mainly because it looks manky. This truck has a collapsible steering shaft like the later 132 (132AB casting box) my 125 (had) and my 2300 have a one piece shaft. the oil in it was as grim as the outside, so it got a tidy up on the outside and some new oil. It needed lots of adjustment. Steering is much tighter and quieter now
  2. YES DRAG DAAAAYYYY! All packes up, ready to go, scooter drags on too! Big thanks to @Threeonthetree and everyone who helped out and turned up, always a good day. Also thanks to the people who took photos and i have shamelessly rehosted Lining up for scrutineering Ended up doing a lot of this. fiddling with the carb and talking crap with good peoples This was my result in the DYO part of the day, i dialled in a 19.7 and on my first run i DNFed about 20m from the start line, the carb linkage popped off so no go pedal :/ . ^that run was after run 3, results from passes i did are below. Run 4, - 6 were after the DYO had finished, Shaved a second off from the first run, and gained 7mph just from swapping the limited jets i have around in the carb, pretty happy to using a semi scientific method. The carb much better dialed in, and probalby as good as this particular one will ever be, but its still not very good there is an internal air or fuel leak, or maybe both, , idle is up and down and farts and pops on load sometimes as well.
  3. SO ive been pesting around in this a bit, trying to get it sorted for drag day. Seat already taken, sorry ladeeze. Makes a good surf wagon The DCHE carb it came with is Is still a bit flakey, so i swapped to a DCD which is the type the original 1500 motor would have had, and is on the 2300 as well. I have a DMS too but the action is the reverse and the truck has slightly different linkage to the sedan as well, no pivot point on the firewall. DCD is way better but still sub optimal :/.
  4. Havnt done much with this while ive been playing with the ute, except drive it to monthly meets. Here it is with another sweet torsion bar suspension vehicle at the october meet these flippin sweet sweet pics from the november one thanks to @MichaelJFox on his Rolleiflex and on the way to the december meet it ran out of gas despite the gauge saying half full until the AA man put $20 of 95 in and it dropped to under a 1/4. Once rolling again it was too late to make it to Mt Wellington So we had a solo MEAT at Lincoln Rd MEAT!
  5. Ran out of gas on the motorway even tho guage says over half full... Now running a solo* meet at Lincoln rd thanks AA Merry Christmas dorks. Y'all will have to wait till next year to unwrap my junk
  6. i get no deafening, but you mean an angry, burbly mouse right, a rodent of unusual size type mouse?
  7. "Congratulates car form Poland! I have cars from FSO too. ( Polonez with OHV engine ) Are you happy with this Fiat? My dad had the same. ( 1990 white with 5 gearbox and 1.5 next 1.6 from Polonez engine on carburetor and timing belt instead timing chain ) Sorry on my englisch. My language is bad." Cześć Likor, and thanks mate! Your Englisch is fine I have yet to drive this much, but i do like it, the rear end is very light . I think i will eventually change carburettor to EFI from a Lancia Delta. i have 2 other Fiats as well, a 1969 125 with a 2l twin cam and sidedrafts and a 5 speed, and a 1966 2300 Familiare with some Polonez parts on it too (many engine parts on the old 2.3 are common with the 1.5). You should start a thread on your Polonezez! (Polonoi?) There are many people here who would like to see what you do in Poland. Na zdrowie!
  8. they tend to remove a normal cars door linings and stuff to have a good gork, dont they? Maybe they only have plastic panel popper tools to suit Tiidas now, and no proper USA screwdrivers... Good excuse to cavity wax (and have a look yourself) while its off?
  9. I was just warming it up while moving other vehicles to take it for a test run. Turns out i didnt wire up the radiator fan which is a small (12") pusher on the front. New earth and power and regigging the switch meant i missed my man at the place. Cooled down while i rewired the fan, topped up the reservoir and fired up no worries. Had the day off today and ran it in, great success! Im definitely swapping out that crummy blocked/leaky/ carb before drag day/driving it again . Its had two chances already,. Engine pulls well when it cooperates. i have 3 contenders clean and ready to bolt on, will try the DCD(s) first as its a straight swap, then if thats pants the DMS (which needs linkage changes) . Parked on the street like a BOSS and ive got a bit of a list of niggles, but pretty much sorted for summer
  10. Respayed the rear and had way too much paint so blew over all my other repairs and the black 'tideline' on the side. Diddled around with a heap of other stuff hoping to take it in for a WoF on saturday. Pink Doggo Rusty and Grey just like the house. Stuck my spoiler on, self tappers FTW Interior all back in including a new Ducato ignition switch Then this happened:
  11. I just wanted to say I love everything about this build.
  12. Well as far as i am concerned its not finished untill there is a pic of a well earned beer with a freshly vintage-lawn-tractored lawn in the background...
  13. its just a SS disc for yr grinder that puts heat into the panel where you 'grind' it but doesnt take any metal off - easy enough to make from an old bowl, bench top, or sheet of SS. Ive not used one myself but a gas torch, benzo, or even judicious spots and flap wheel can do much the same thing (with higher risk). Lots of vids on youtube but its a bit of a trick i think to know where to put more heat in in a way that wont make it worse. I have found putting a spot of weld on the far (from the original weld) edge of the divot from oilcanned area can tighten it up (and the flap discing it off adds more heat too, esp if you use a fine grit) , but effectively makes the sunken area a bit bigger, but also much less obvious. I would just bash it and see, no shame in using filler as a filler (rather than a structural member)
  14. Yerp, warping is hard to avoid, esp on big flat panels with heaps of butt welding, no matter what you do.. Im guessing from your tidy weldporn that you do long beads which would get a lot of heat into the panel, which shrinks and warps. Pick and peck stacking up the tacks one by one is 'better', especially if you have a lot of sections/patches on the go its easy to jump around so the metal stays cooler. Tapping the back of the weld back out or selective shrinking elsewhere eg a big spot of weld (or a shrinking disc if you are flash!) in the middle of an oilcanning section can tighten it up, or make it worse, lol. Nothing wrong with bog over good metal tho, heaps better than bog over chickenwire, newspaper and rust!
  15. thanks! The thread is a dictatorship tho, you only see what i show you Also, no.
  16. Some of my Ebay stuff has started arriving too, This sweet (english) factory manual (most of the engine pictures are from the Fiat 1300/1500 manual and the body stuff from the 125), it is however missing any electrical diagrams, which is the main thing i actually wanted And a 1:43 model. The canopy and pizza cutters didnt last long Weirdly the number plate is almost an exact match, only 1 character is not shared.
  17. last of the rust, saving the best for last, etc. I started on the drivers side, thinking i would just let in a few patches, but after a while they all joined up and i just did what i originally planned to do with rust cuts from a sedan floor and cut a 100mm wide strip out, only difference is making my own patches. All these photos are from the passenger side, which was a whole lot quicker and tidier cause i just hacked it straight out instead of faffing around. Yeah, nah: Dad, I dug a hole. The rest of the floor on both sides is sweet. whipped this patch and the lip for the cab floor that came off with the old one in about 10 minutes, but took another hour of trimming and bending to fit nice first pass weld and grind, with only a few pinholes to redo Then primer, and black zinc and then seam sealer patted on to replicate the factory stuff, then underbody over the top and redo the whole under side So that is all the rust sorted Used up the last of the underbody schutz on the arches and the rear of the cab And tray back on Just need to - seam seal around the roof and etc - paint the patches on the body work which are in primer and the seam seal, (will probably just rattlecan for now) - reinstall the interior (and passenger door) - install ignition switch (when it turns up tout le chemin de la France) - install new outer headlamps - install front lip - do a skid - get a WoF. - go to drag day So far its cost me (other than the original purchase price) just slightly over what the PO wanted for the hotwires
  18. dude, thats boss level rust!. Very tidy work too, be a shame to grind all them lovely welds off!
  19. Oh, @EURON8 also gave his credit card details and home address to some russian hackers and in return they emptied a warehouse of lada goodies from the motherland to store more bitcoins. I jumped on his freight bandwagon and gots me one of these sweet lip spoilers
  20. Then i founds some holes in the gutter 'hiding' under some clear silicone: Chopchop I purposely kept my cut below the swage line as it made the patch easier to make and blend in and reduces the chance of warping a lot, even if it was a bit tighter with the torch tip. Got some rust kill and primer in there while i could, always a bit of a tradeoff as the stuff you jam in can contaminate the weld and make it more prone to rust out again vs slowing down or stopping the cancer thats already there that will definitely rust out again! CAD then steel, A flattened bit of old copper pipe makes a good bridge/heatsink and saves grinding the back side of the weld flat, as the weld wont stick to it Bam! and the rust is gone Few more blebs and holes sorted too while i was there I pretty much only have the back of the cab floor to do now, and ive had a bit more of a poke at it and i think ill just patch the worst of it to get er done as its not that bad really , and keep the floor sections when i eventually collect and chop up my red parts car for that 'one day when i do it properly'. Future me can suck it.
  21. And some rust and stuff around the drivers door The mirror mounting points were, ahhh, not rusty but may as well have been. No access from the inside, so i chopped it out. Found some RivNuts at Supercheap (no gun but!!!) so tacked some in my patch before install so it matches the passenger side (which needs a couple of the extra holes welded up too, but already has the rivnuts) Knocked back the welds and done
  22. Heaps of little things, - got the stereo/gauges installed and working (except the oil pressure - need a 1/4 NPT to 12x1.5 thread adapter to put the china sender in the standard Fiat sender hole, or a Fiat guage i guess) - swapped out the old secondaries for some from the stash, factory 125, old holey rubbing and bent ones on left, new hotness on right made a few free horse powers before installing them with the power file! Lot quieter now so i can now hear the valve shims tapping... My Ladapower box turned up, - so far ive fixed the steering column bushes (nice and tight now) - replaced all the dash panel lamps - installed the new gear lever and bushes, and rubber boots so it doest fall out nor can you see the road though the hole - replaced a couple of other random firewall boots - replaced flasher unit - diagnosed the no start issue to the ignition switch (same as 80s/90s Ducato/Renault/Citroen van, so only 28Euro with freee shipping instead of 90Euro + for a Fiat 127/128/132 listed item!) - installed a battery holddown and tidies up some engine bay wiring - found the factory hub caps sit flush on the meshies, yeah or nah?
  23. Used up a whole 1L canister of Dinotrol underbody on the front half when i got home tonight, should keep it nice for a while, as well as hiding my secret excavations. Ill cavity wax in the corners and access holes tomorrow and then its off the stands. My Aliexpress oder turned up too, so I finished off wiring up the centre console on the bench. Sound Pressure, Oil Pressure, Engine Pressure and Electrical Pressure Gauges ready to go. This combination of Chinas finest automotive accessories (head unit, 3x 2" gauges cluster, and a 2" Tach) cost me US$62 including shipping, and im quite pleased with my purchase so far, and i very much like the factory ''2FM + 5 AM Station Memory' looks, even the wonky chrome kinda suits. Mechless Head unit has bluetooth, Aux and USB inputs and a tuner, and has 4 channel RCA outputs if the 4x60W (lololol) onboard amp turns out to be total pants, but i dont imagine the bottom tier 90s Pioneer box speakers ill jam under the seats will reveal much of a soundstage. TBH ill just be happy of the Aux-in works and the USB port charges my phone.
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