azzurro

Intersting the engine capacity, config and induction fields dont or maybe cant mention the ~50kw hybrid part. Any prius powered conversions in the db yet? What would they say?

so flash! have those michelin tyres on mrs_azzurros Healing Cruiser - probably the most expensive bit of all my cruiser/20 fleet armada

V close, spanish 151 with a '92 casting date and 3 progression holes I set the butterflies on the bench to there and also with a torch on the car a couple times to balance visually but not looked lately now they are balanced Pretty sure low float levels/ excessive angle was/will be messing with my tune, beyond any design flaw, as while theres still a small stutter its nowhere as bad now i gave the inside/lower float a wee tweak

bit more carb tutuing, upped the main jet to 135, better on transition, but maybe too rich on WoT. diddled with the the idle mix, ok, but still a bit funny. Read and reread my various carb books. decided to tweaked the floats, as the carbs are on a 12* angle to horizontal, (max recommended is 5*), the lower or inside side float will tend to cut off the needle valve earlier than it should making the fuel level low, especially in the upper or outside fuel well: ...and as it is written, so it comes to pass... Bent the inside float up a bit, and left the outer as it was (factory 25mm). Average fuel level is probably still a bit low, but too high will be bad too. WAAAAAAAY better now, i think the idle jets were sucking a bit of air every know and again or something, and the progression flat spot is much improved as the ETs have a few more holes covered. Tweaked the timing a bit more advanced as well (12-15* at idle) and the whole thing is now much livelyer. Idle is smoother and i leaned it back to a 'steady' 13.5 AFR, at 800rpm, when before it wouldnt idle under 1000rpm or 12.5 AFR At WoT AFR is dipping into the low 10s sometimes even the 9s, so i will try the 125 mains again. Time for a few other things (there is always something!) REDUCING NOISE Steering tie rod vs exhaust downpipe interference caused a disconcerting rattle though the steering wheel on hard right (parking style) turns These pipes are 80's muffler shop specials and will be replaced eventually, meantime a wee tickle from Mr Grinder on the excess threads appears to have the desired effect INCREASING NOISE 'customised' some op shop $5 low impedance (6ohm) speakers using a skill saw, ply offcuts and builders adhesive that i really think have nailed the 'builders least favourite apprentice' aesthetic. They fit under the back of the seats where no one can see them, and are 11ty times better than the old 4inch pioneer box speakers, and were within my budget, I am not ashamed. Related, I also installed a switch so the head unit will run without the key in the ON position (dash lights on, fuel pump chunting away). This hack is needed because my 'cheapest on ebay' Ducato ignition switch doesn't have a flippin ACC position. Now that's austerity. Chucked on a new sticker holder sticker And piled the girls in for a hoon. For the first time it feels like its actually running well, which means i will be using it quite a bit more.

Mine dont quite go that lean (22 = no gas?) , but there is a definite stumble and AFR peak on some low throttle transitions How did you solve it? Reading my new books suggest a range of potential causes/solutions: - idle jets to small, (45 fitted - i recon they will be slightly on the side of too big if anything) - idle mix too lean (AFRs say 12ish at idle, yet to plug chop to see what they say, and all the books say 'give the engine what it wants' to idle best ) - throttle plate position relative to 1st progression hole at idle incorrect The last two only require a screwdriver and time, the first one requires $ and new jets, and i dont think 45s are too small on a very mild 1600.

I will count them soon, they are all in the 1.5 to 3 turn range, idle AFRs are in the 12-13 range with small adjustments either way was making a big difference. I will richen it up a bit no longer an issue after remove, trim and refit 'is it possible it might be messing with me' he asks! "possible"? POSSIBLE!!!!111!!1 (shakes head walking away, throws arms up dramatically)

For Future reference: Weber 40 DCOE 151 on Fiat 1585cc twin cam: Main Jet 125 Main ET F9 Main Air 190 Idle Jet 45 F9 Accell Pump Jet 45 Chokes 32 Venturi 4.5

these ones had equal length shafts so i left them where they were and trimmed them Good Question! Mainly cause I used up my car time and had to do something else. Next day i did go for a hoon, went ok (better than the single carb!), but rich and lean spots and hanging on idle, etc, carbs not going back to idle in balance, etc So, I pulled off the carbs tweaked/ground back the linkage a bit more (master and slave levers were interfering with each other a bit), drilled the carbs mounting holes to 9mm (from 8.5) for that little extra bit of slack, reset the float levels, (12mm for these newer ones with a 26mm droop vs 8.5 and 15mm for the older style) pulled all the jets and gave them a clean out - two main jet stacks were not fully seated, and one accelerator pump jet was blocked ground some of the dizzy scoop on the manifold some more (while i could feel how thick the wall was with the carbs off) installed carbs and rebalanced/set idles etc hooned Great success, but does have a lean point off idle (progression holes?) and is a bit rich elsewhere esp on WoT, thinking of upping the mains to the 135 i have (up from 125) but also increasing the air corrector to reduce the richness at higher rpm (190 currently, no spares), but that is for later. Engine runs and pulls much better than with the single already, sounds great on song and has a pleasing burble at idle, and near silent on cruise with an instant response to stabs of the jandle. reccomended

Rerouted the fuel line to how i planned it, with the fuel pressure gauge between the two carbs In a timely event, these turned up from @ul9601 and so after reading the relevant section i tuned my MAN-O-METER to 11 and made this very very boring and poorly shot video, which is pretty much the 2nd start after getting it to fire and idle and me tuning it by how tall the rod is on my MAN Engines really tappy! ill redo the shims soon. Next day i tuned it a bit more, 1. balancing the barrels on each carb to each other using the air bleed screws (bleed the highest reading to match the lowest) and idle (small adjsutments), then 2. then balancing the carbs to each other (bleed the highest to the lowest side), then 3. adjusting the idle mix (leanest smooth idle, turn 1/2 turn one way at a time until it slows, then back the other way until speed drops then keep halving the difference until you find the spot 1/4 turn above the lean speed drop point) and back around to step 1 again, etc Turned out the timing was pretty retarded too, but also found a better dizzy spot. Had a dig though the filters stash to see what would work. The big factory thing is the Strada Abarth manifold (fwd) and the blue line is wehre i would need to cut it Tuned out only the worlds greatest filter will fit. Even then the (K&N) bases needed a tweak to fit (My 125 Belina has socks over trumpets) RACE MODE (now i see it in the photo, I dont like the look of those trumpet retaining bolts just waiting to wiggle out and fall into the carb. NO SIR) However, small children and animals no longer in danger of ingestion. Check the clearance to the shock tower. Be a real faff to make the Strada filter thing fit unfortunately, would need a custom airbox and a cut and shut, but would also be better than the Ramflows Test drive soon

Stage 7 - gosh! getting it going i would start with the basic factory settings (8-10deg seems about right) and adjust (via dyno?) from there - high power engines are generally set up based on the maximum all in timing (just back from pinking) with idle timing adjusted, if required, to suit However you want it to just run first if its cranking not firing you might have the timing 180 deg out - but start with the basics - got spark Y/N? - got fuel Y/N? - Got air Y/N? if yes to all the above, then check its at 10^deg (static) and once running, tweak from there

Lol yep. I was thinking about yanking the heater and the rear air con out but pulled the cover, had a look, noped and put the cover right back on again. Quite keen on a front end suspension diagram + rear suspension leaf bushes. Mainly to cross reference with navara ones which are much easier to find.

i suspect your are 100% correct, but i dont have or have ever seen carbs with that style throttle shaft , and it would complicate both the linkage requirements (two separate pull points) and carb balancing significantly. What is even more silly is that if both barrel pairs were angled the same as (or more, for better dizzy clearance) as the front pair, they would fit perfectly, and there almost no space restrictions towards the firewall that justifies the choices they made. These were NZ designed and made specifically to fit sideys to the dealer developed 125T , with the advantage over the factory LHD models in that the carbs dont compete for space with the steering shaft and brake master/booster (all LHD RWD twin cams had twin downdrafts, or single carbs), so it seems weird to design it in such a way as to require special unicorn model carbs (both dellortos and webers were fitted), and to invite ignition timing/shorting issues eg if i was designing some to be made i would have designed them like this "\\\\"* instead of like this ")\||" *which is ironically pretty reminiscent of the /F/I/A/T/ corporate logo at the time

Sold the old van, woooo! New one was a relatively cheap upgrade, but will take me longer to pay off based on fuel cost savings. I like driving it a lot better anyways. TInted the windows, and made a window blank/insulation panels for the rear side windows beside the mattress. 5 layers including the last of the foil backed stuff on the sheet side. Got a few dog hairs in the glue >:| Fiat shelf and and new tints in the background looking cosy baby one for the shag, pile, port, hole thread Tested in the most gruelling environments as proven by the following two photos: the background of this family facebook photo from my Aunties 60th and this picture of a road sign and another silver van project TO DOs - new mattress, oh god my back - cheap water pump is shitty, need a self priming one - ventilation - this van is way warmer but also stuffier than the old one with the fancy interior, roof liner and side panels - want to find a slider window for the window behind the drivers side ideally - wheel alignment + get them to wind up the front torsion bar about 10-15mm (more on drivers side) as the tyres rub on big bumps and has quite a soft spring rate (i did this on the old van and it handled much better) - boost gauge

Finally went and got ol mate @EURON8 to ally weld the holes in the already hacked up side draft manifold so i could space the carbs apart about 4mm from where they were but without fouling on the dizzy or loosing room to seal or flow. some careful 'linishing' later Without any trimming the inner barrells will be 49mm apart, manifold spacing is 40mm, min i can get away with on the carbs is 45mm, max on the manifold is 44mm. its pretty flippin tight and doesnt add up... shaft need trimming by 3 to 4mm and the nuts thinned down a bit as well - i ended up spinning about 3 out of the vice, so i need some more M7 nuts to fit back on the venturi retainers i stole my spares from! no need for retaining washers :/ You can also see how offset the carbs are to the manifold Redrilled and tapped - had to open a old NOS packet to get a 5/16 NSP tap out that had been floating around in my grandads too box for who knows how long before that Fitting the o ring holders show where the manifold needs a smidge of smoothing, about 15 seconds with the belt file. The outer edge of the o-ring diameter is just inside the edge of the manifold face. linkage mod, toyota corolla cable from the old single carb set up to twin weber linkage, all this is sandwiched between the carbs boom AS mentioned in a previous post, these carbs came from a very hot mini, and apart from the drilled and soldered main jets, they all looked very close to what various books and setting tables suggest would be ok for 1500-1700cc engines. 32mm chokes, F9 tubes, 45 idles, 185 airs and random sized but soldered and redrilled mains I had previously ordered 125,and 135 mains so popped in the 125 to start with. old manifold off. Removed the (pretty new) old leaky mechanical fuel pump for good, and installed a factory engine blanking plate. Dumb photo cause it shows the old pump. installed and with new linkage mount and brake vacuum routing, both way better than before. Fuel hose routing will eventually be jiggled to look better (i had orignially wanted to have fule coming in from the firewalll side, but the double ended banjo is a bit long to have the hose make the remaining curve without a kink or rubbing. May try bending it a bit, or maybe just buy a bent one. Clearance is ok, but I cant install the bell mouth into cylinder 3, nor will the air filters i have fit - i will look into making an airbox - i have a Strada 125TC airbox with 'ABARTH' and a scorpion stamped on it that i really really want to make work some how but whatever, lets worry about that after! plugged the fuel in, then spend an age jiggled the timing around and carefully power filing the manifold, then trying to find the best combo of a limited ability to clock the dizzy (it fits in only two more or less fixed positions, maybe 5 degrees rotation?) and dizzy drive tooth alignment , and then it fired up and idled. and revved. Sounds good, and AFRs are ball park YAY! DOORTS!

Concrete mayte

Just throw them on the back and sort them out over there? Those look ace.

Probably depends where you are. I use north shore metals in rosedale. They have offcuts and etc of bar stock but dont cut sheet steel on site. The ususly have some half sheets tho. I think a full sheet (1200x2400) of ~1mm zintec was $45 or so last time i got one.

Stupid back shit man, I compressed my spine about 10 years ago (hit the bottom surfing) and it gives me the gyp if I push too hard doing stuff that tweaks it etc (like surfing, sitting, lying down, standing up, excersize, doing garage stuff etc), but its manageable. Worst part is it makes me cranky, not just because its sore and achy but because doing stuff i like to do makes it sore. That xray looks bung, and as your medical professional I recommend doing a cut and shut from the parts body. Get well soon big guy

Meanwhile i also bought a dish, some nylon plumbing fittings, vinyl hose and an electric tap + pump. With all that and a pile of left over materials, and a basic idea of form i came up with this A small storage shelf, and everything mocked up. I couldnt find any stainless bowls in my (very low) price range that looked likley so ended up with this bluey enamel baking tray. What a flipping mission to drill through the enamel for a plughole with a holesaw - blunted two of my cheap shitty set - ended up wazzing it with the jigsaw, and ended up dropping it and chipping the edge. I was looking out for some cheap (retro) formica for the bench top on trademe, but In keeping with the low budget build, i remembered i had this left ally sheet over from the big 'sign of the times' trailer, with a bonus factory smooth edge and fold. All pooped up and screwed on. Needs a going over with a scotch pad on a grinder to polish it up a bit but pretty happy with how it tuned out. And in, plus the inverter (laptop charger) 20l Water tank and pump ready to be plumbed up (need 2m of 10mm ID vinyl hose) , plug waste exits via the old ash tray hole. With the coolant lines and ducting it was a hell of a fishing exercise to get the 20mmID pipe out of teh factory hole on the inside of the sill. Its just hanging there like all the old vans as we only use the sink for teeth brushing, hand wash and the mrs to do her contacts, but there is a lot of room under the floor for a waste tank to be installed, or pop a bucket under if required. And added a bit of an electrical board to better keep track of my addons, should make it easy to install solar in the future too. This battery is a bit dead too (pretty new looking base model Bosch, but wont hold a charge above 12.5v ) , so when the old van sells ill splash out on a fancy new one Still no boost gauge installed.

Still got the old one, hopefully a dude will be buying it this week, hopefully. Showing off a few features in the new van, Rear Air con, makes the rear area like a fridge in about 3 minutes flat, looked into pulling it out but its got hard lines in the B pillar and it works really well, so, it can stay. There is room in the maaasive roof box thing for storage cubbies and stuff (whole thing could have been designed about 6 inches closer to the roof) so i may do something with that, as its fibreglass its pretty strong and easy to mess with. The holes above the head area from these sweet looking but probably a bit shit Pioneer TS -TRX60, one 6.5" driver, and one passive cone and a tweeter. They sounded a bit poo before i pulled them and the old head unit out, but they are also missing the back half of their boxes that would have made them into a trapezoidal sub box style shape, and sealed them up and made the passive driver work. Ill see how they fit behind the seats in the Ute and might try remake a box from ply. Love the text TS-TRX60 MAX INPUT150W OPTIMUM BASS PERFORMANCE SPECIALLY DESIGNED FOR PICKUP TRUCKS Heater in the rear as well, this thing appears to run off a coolant loop that threads though the sills, have not tried it out in anger yet but fan blows and its warm. Thats also the spot for the sink, so it needed a lot of pondering time to make it all fit and work Hmmmmm...

So, so good. Well done man

Not fitted the boot gauge yet, but ive made and fitted curtains, insulated and boarded the floor, and made the bed. Guy I bought the van off gave me a coupe of sheet of ply that used to be in the back and a few more offcuts as well, as well as the ply i took off interior ladder rack thing I also had some 32mm ply offcuts from an art week project i helped me ol' mate with, and most of the soft materials (curtains and insulation and foam, mattress) i already had, so this has been built for 'free' so far but i did have to buy more screws. Nice to use some hoarded shit up and make some room. Blank canvas with so much room for activities. Internal roof racks are from the PO - Guy had it set up for carrying a ladder Also covered over the brown chip board lining where it would be seen with check vinyl. Underfloor insulation - not sure how much difference this will make but cant hurt. 6x9s in too, same position as old van These 5mm odd sized MDF sheets were $5 at M10. Should be enough to stop my patella twisting off in one of the floor channels and stop the insulation rpping as well as providing some sound deadening and insulation too. Especially with a layer of fatigue foam on top, then the factory vinyl floor and some more foam under the last of the check vinyl. Much cosier too. Our last vans had house carpet on the rear floors, i think this will be a bit easier to keep clean and no less warm, especially with the fancy head liner, and we can always throw down a rug, or put in some underlay Made the bed, design was kinda dictated by the wood i had, but it tuned out really good. The sides are fixed, (but with only 4 screws per side) and very solid being made from 22mm ply, and the middle (17mm ply + 32mmply x 70mm cross members) is in two halves, So, they can be rotated and sat on the floor to do van stuff, OR put in place to make the bed platform and do caravan stuff. These are fixed to the fixed sides with 4 screws in the middle seam to stop them levering out when i sit on the end of the bed - the whole thing stiffens up the whole van like a cross brace And im pooped, so test lie down completed successfully! Now to the sink. And boost gauge.

What a mission, and in a field find city car too. Top FIATing! Or is it a Zavasta or FSO?

Back firing is indicative of a lean condition. But also too much advance. And your sure that new cam is lined up right? Does it run with some throttle at all? Or on the easy start or a squirt of gas in the manifold?

Ive been using this as a daily for the last few months and being auto petrol plus all the junk on it Im getting a bit over satiating its thirst for the dino juice. I needed a more economical solution, and after being on my watch list for a month i noticed that this van was just down the road, so went and had a look. Less kms, less $ to run (i made a spreadsheet), more displacement, more gears, more clutch pedals, more airbags, more diesel, MOAR TURBOS!!! So of course i bought it, gonna chop up the silver one for a manual diesel + T conversion on the white one... Lol such minty. This is the cleanest one yet, v4.0 2006 E25.2 Caravan, ZD30DDTi, Manual. Love the boost. And gears. And diesel clatter. Roll of Honour of previous Holiday Homys: V1.0 1996 E24 Homy TD27, Manual, BHG V2.0 1998 E24 Caravan TD27, Manual, Rust v3.0 2002 E25.1 Caravan, KA24DE, Auto, FOR SALE Bought a boost gauge off @ul9601 before i even collected it HOT Double Van Action Now with most of the good bits swapped over, Looking forwards to fitting this one out. I wish the chrome west coast style mirrors on the old one fitted , but the nose cone is just different enough that they dont quite swap straight over. May make the effort as the new ones fold at high speed and have less visibility. Old one is for sale here: https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1954458950 YOU BUY NOW!! ASK ABOUT YOUR OS SPECIAL DISCOUNT!!!