nzstato

ATF works well too at freeing up bores.

I can sell you a $50k analyser from work

P.S. Also swapped out the free wheeling hubs (stuffed) for the standard drive flanges - wont make too much of a difference to me.

Has anyone here ever swapped out the spring eye bushes on these things? Getting a fair amount of arse end wobble and the ones in it are stuffed.

Slowly getting rid of the rattles on this thing. Bought some defender door seals to fit. These are perfect as long as you drill out the rivets for the old seals and grind of the 'lip' which goes around the door frame. Also dealing with the door top fitment too. When I got these repros I mistakenly though they would fit up fine. The need significant tweaking otherwise the front corner of the frame sits proud (and lets the water in). I've had to take all the glass/channels out to do it so just waiting for the sealant to dry. Quick burn up the gravel road shows the doors sit firm/nice (also rebuilt the door hinges at this point too).

Nothing too serious, just a nice day to be driving about....

Agree with all of the above, chuck the procomp away. Do you have a spark tester?

If you bust diffs I have spares.

Not a hell of alot is happening, really waiting to get my HQ sold so I cam move onto this. Have baremetalled the roof with paintstripper and sandpaper (which gave some surprises) and have the shell sitting on a dolly. Have braced the shell since the floors/sills are close to non existant. The dolly is constructed with dimensions such that when I remake the sills I can cut the dolly off where it is currently welded and have the shell sit on it on the sills, that way I can make the floors/bracing etc... Least this way I can roll it into the corner of the shed while I work on other stuff.

V8 Belmonts are indeed rare, the 'HQ SS' was a Belmont with a 253 but they never came in that colour. What are the numbers on the tags, be interesting to see what else it was optioned with.

Yep, PM me

Will take a bit of thinking, do you have a wiring diagram?

What do you have wiring wise around the radiator? There should be a plug left from your factory set up. What about on the fans you have? Should be an easy setup, give me a bell if you need a hand, I might be able to spare an arvo during the week.

Fans should activate via a relay, with the ON signal coming from a thermostat. Run decent wiring as they can suck some amps.

I'm up here at the moment and just took a look around the park. Super keen to head up for the classic racing on Easter next year.

Here's what the people want, I give you an HC Viva Magnum subframe. Taken from a very nice man in invercargill who has a whole lot of cars (otherwise known as a wrecker). Yea it needs a complete refurb but at least it is complete, plus it didnt cost moonbeams. Now what's this? Could this be the start of ANOTHER project for Sam? I think so.... stay tuned.....

It would be wise to stay with the current front setup if I already had a running/driving vehicle. This is a cot case, the entire front floors (which the front frames rely on) are rotted away all and these have also been known to suffer with chassis twisting during hard cornering due to a lack of front crossmember. I will be cutting out the original frame rails and making my own from box section, this will allow me to set a reasonable A arm mount height as there is essentially no room for spring travel at these heights ^. Likewise I also get R&P steering with the viva and a steering column which wont impale me if I have a head on.... Will also continue the frame rails to the rear suspension points. So yea, fine to keep it all if I am just swapping the engine. Not if I want to build something a bit more extreme. PS. I love that ^ think it sold for $60k at auction a wee while ago. Will be following some cues (filler on rear 1/4, leather bonnet straps) but really want to prevent having to flair the back guards, even if I want to run 8" rims.

Ok, this is looking easy. Hard part, triangulated 4 link in the rear?

Nope, not mad. I could count on one hand the amount of times I have used it in the last 2 years..... Wrong type of car at this point in my life. I've had one or two people come take a look at it already but no bites so far. I've got enough contacts that I could get back into an HQ relatively cheaply further down the line.... That being said I wouldnt say no to a swap with an LJ 2 door project.... Though it reminds me I should update the thread.....

Ok so I had sort of forgot I started this thread.... To cut a long story short the yellow/brown thing ended up going to the great scrapheap in the sky (though not before I sold all of the parts and cut out the good metal I needed) and I brought another one with alot more rust but would require less 'cosmetic' repairs, plus I'm gonna hack the crap out of this anyway... Like I said, I bought another one, this time from Dunsandel. This had the old plates/tags so will be slightly easier to get back on the road. I't was probably a pretty good shell when it was put out to pasture (last rego in 96) but some smarty decided to smash all of the windows and the floor rotted out. Didnt cost me much though. This was over a year ago so I've been spending a bit of time collecting some parts.... This is the 'New Old Stock' wall - I have 1/4s for both sides, passenger door (still looking for a decent drivers), mid panel, bonnet, plus a HQ sill and an HK/T/G sill I am currently trying to sell. I also came to my senses and realised a 202 holden is going to be a massive headache to shoehorn into this thing and so recently I purchased this redtop off xsspeed (chur). Wil rebuild it with some 'go fast' goodies and use twin 45 webers for induction (cos they are awesome) Was mucking around in the garage so this is what it looks like currently Have been conviced that a Viva front end would be a good idea (and I agree) so it shouldnt be too much of an issue once I narrow the crossmember. As I said its pretty fintstone styles at the moment, not to worry as I am completely making a new floor, will also tie in the front and rear suspension with stiffeners. Am keen to get stuck into this project but really need to sell my HQ to free up some space.

Thanks man, just went out and put the tape measure over the car. With a 20mm narrow this is going to work out perfectally. Anywhere know where I could pick a complete front end up - SI wide? Failing that I'm sure Prestons in Invercargill probably have a few stacked up.

I'm still torn, one side of me says, "you're going build turrets for the rear so why not struts for the front" need to look at a starlet to decide.

I was intially thinking starlet/AE86 purely due to aftermarket bits available. However the idea of attempting to weld in the strut towers has put me off.

Cool, I'm going to have to cut it down to 550mm ish between the mounts but that should give me track that will still be within the (lipped guards). A35 had a really crap design (by modern standards), it was the first attempt by Austin to make a monocoq chassis and hence lacks any sort of rigidity at all. It has two U chassis rails (which only go just past the firewall) and the dampers/springs are mounted direct to that, it didnt even have a crossmember (sort of braced with the lip at the front) and the engine mounts are forward of the suspension mounts. So really, a silly design. Yes I will have to make some silly high frame rails to get it to work as there arent really any other subframe options which would work with this kind of car. Torana, HT etc has too much arc on the A-arms and a bit too big. Though ideas would be appreciated.

Chur Am not afraid with a bit of cutty cutty weldy weldy..... Only issue will be if I need to shorten it (which I think I will have to).