Rookie

I can drop it off on friday after work.

I could always bring it to bike summit et al.

Sweet let me know, I only want a hundy for it, comes with coils and carbs, its a bit ratty looking but does run and could be tidied up pretty easily. I just can't see myself using it.

Looking good man. I've got a cb350 motor sitting in the garage, if you want a few more cubes I could be pursuaded to let it go.

Pretty much max revs is determined by piston acceleration, which is mostly governed by the stoke, hence short stroke=more revs.

http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=32653 Get some learning into ya! I don't know if you have ever played with twin webers/dellortos (probably not I'm guessing), but they have very little manifold vacuum at anything but idle. As the OP clearly stated that he is going to run them, and asked "Do I need to use the vacuum advance?" the correct answer is no, he doesn't NEED to hook it up and there will next to no benefit from doing so, there would be much more to be gain by getting the dizzy recurved to the carb/cam/compression combo that he is planning on running. If this was using the stock manifold/carb then sure there would be gains to be had by hooking it up.

All it does is add a small amount of advance to the ignition when there is manifold vacuum, it is there to promote clean burning at idle to appease the hippies, nothing else.

Vacuum advance is just for better emisions at idle, unsure why you are messing around with it?

Top work bro, this is mind blowing. I assume you pinched the actual clutch basket from something, do you mind sharing what?

The reason you use a boost referenced (1:1) or Rising Rate (anything more than 1:1) FPR is so that as you add boost the fuel pressure doesn't "appear" to be decreasing. As you add boost the pressure differential across the injector gets less, so say you had a base FP of 43 psi and 10 psi of boost, your injectors will see a pressure differential of 33 psi. so what a boost referenced FPR does is adds 1 psi of FP for every 1 psi of boost, so when you are on boost your injectors will still see 43 psi of FP. Similarly a Rising Rate FPR will add (in your case) 1.25 psi of FP for every 1 psi of boost, so your injectors will see a differential of 45.5 psi and hence will flow more when on boost. Rising rate FPR are kind of a work around for not having big enough injectors, or using the stock ECU with extra boost, they can be used to good effect with a custom tune though, so don't count them out for that either.

If I remember correctly Brocklee said that his cert dude said that as long as he can provide calcs to show that it's as strong if not stronger, then sweet. Just do that.

Did you miss this bit mate? Even though the rear port may have a residual pressure valve , chances are that the bore of the master cylinder is stepped, so you will run into issues.

Out of the 11ty photos you took, not one of them shows the area of the head that would let you identify what sort of LSD it is. Take a photo of the ramps and then we will tell you.

Oi Bizzo, you jelly?

I too have heard of this but in my case it was an owner driver telling me and the amounts were in the order of 1L in a 400L tank, dunno the merits though?

Copy this man, he seem to know what he's doing, he's on the nissan diesel forum too. 1.7 bar of boost. Xz8u3_NzX88 This LDs got 2 bar up it. NLAIosfjAWs

Any of you top blokes know of a surefire (read: easy) way of getting the 40 odd years of shit of the gearbox and block of my Kent? I've been using petrol and a screw driver and that works but its slow going. Any help would be appreciated.

It appears to be in here.. http://olybrake.com/pdf/fel_pro_torque_specs_guide.pdf Ford 2.0l OHC Courier etc Otherwise if you have an ACL gasket it will have the sequence and spec on the packet?

Are the lifters the same size? so can I put the lifters that match the cam into the 711M block?

Ah that could be a problem, as the cam has been run in a 120E block and the motor it's going into is a 711M. What's the course of action in this case?

By doing the cam follers UJ, you just mean replacing them?

A 234 is a cam made by Kent Cams http://www.kentcams.com/product-details/5/Camshaft/Camshaft/234-Fast-Road/ And also a Heron combustion chamber is when you have a flat head and a dished piston. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heron_cylinder_head So what I was trying to say is the uber low CR from having a combustion chamber in piston and in the head will be poose. So the consensus is: yes, cam = good?

There's a good reason why I'm not going to put my good head on it KK, its had pretty big combustion chambers machined into it, so with the heron pistons it would have like 6:1 CR. Looks like this:

Ok what I'm after is a ya or neh on whether a cam upgrade on a standard 1600 crossflow is worth while. The reason I ask is that I have a standard kent in my lotus 7 while I'm building up a dry sumped race motor for it, and I have to pull it out to sort some oil leaks, so I'm wondering if it would be worth while to slap the 234 (i think) cam in it while it's out or will the stock head mean that there won't be any apreciable gains? The car has twin 40 dhlas and extractors. Cheers Guys

So you are saying that its actually 43 lb/in?