Valiant

Whats your thermostat like? Where does the temperature gauge sit when the car is running? If its right down at cold replace the thermostat. the vent controlls on the heater box could be causing you troubble too, not letting the warm air out.

Shouldn't have. Get your alternator fixed, check your battery water level, give the battery/battery tray a rince if the acid has boiled out, make sure all your dash lights work etc.

I think you have a faulty voltage regulator. Or the wiring to it is faulty if it is a remote regulator.

Worth a try.

^+1

Put your socket and power bar on the crank nut and wedge it against the lower arm etc. unplug the distributor and hit the key. Its the best back yard method of loostening the crank pulley with no rattle gun. That is a nasty noise, it should be obvious what it is when you get it appart.

I'll come along Felix.

No it shouldn't, the coil earths through the points/condensor.

Fluid can leak out of any component. Your remote booster sounds like a it could be the culprit. Best to start with the wheel cylinders and work back from there though. Do your drums have little threaded holes in them so you can wind a bolt into them to push them off? Back the brake shoe adjustment off and give the drum a decent wack on its edge with a hammer. Or you may not have slip off drums and you will have to remove the wheel bearings to get the drums off.

Have a look at the contacts on your points, are they all blue and butnt? Is the gap very wide?

Is it a Ballast resistor coil? Do you have a ballast resistor?

Don't worry to much Felixx. I'll call round one night and we'll sort it out. We'll get the wheels off again and have a good look and work from there. It sounds like you may have some kind of underlying problem. Your brake pedal won't push the master cylinder pistons right to the end of the bore so you can get a pocket of air stuck in the master cylinder. You have to bench blead the cylinder to get all the air out. It sounds like you have air in the system and/or your brakes are not adjusted propperly What sort of car is it?

Thats a cool old bike, I'm not sure what frame it is. I think the wheels are OGKs. Let me know if you are going for a ride in Christchurch. I've got a couple of old BMXs too.

Other than what Unclejake has said there is no easy of adding more power to your Anglia. You could build your 997cc up but I think you would be better off to convert to a more modern engine with more capacity. 1500cc Mk1/2 Cortina would be the easiest option. Otherwise a 1600 cross flow from an Escort or Cortina is a good option. You will find your self needing to get a cert with a crossflow swap though.

Keen, see yous fellas there.

6 of one half a dozen of the other. People say Dellorto is more a street carb, I couldn't say. When you get some, look for a set off a 2.0, like yours, some off a smaller motor will cost a lot to jet and tune for your motor. What ever you get check them over very carefully before you buy, every meat head with a screw driver thinks that they are a tuning expert when it comes to side draughts.

Anglia4 sounds like you have some Sky Ways? What are you building? I have been on an old BMX tangent lately too. So yeah my skills are minimal but I'm keen as on some old school BMX riding.

Buy a master cylinder. They are the same as trailer ones and don't cost much at all. Ring BNT, You will need to quote the bore size when you do.

Ok Ok, pub, somewhere centeral, Sunday afternoon. I don't want to hang around a cold wet park at the moment.

This would be great. Sunday night at a pub?

Put your lights on high, shining at a wall about 2-3meters away. Set them so the center of the beam pattern on the wall is the same hight as the center of your light. That should do the trick.

Is it a points distributor? Are you sure your points gap isn't way out making your timing out too?

Hi you mean the one off 105speed? Yeah I will try to make it but not in this flea bus. Just so you know please post comments here. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081 It makes the projects thread neater this way. Thanks for looking. Seeing as I am here already heres some more photos. I have put this on hold and been working on my VG Val lately. I have made some engine mounts though. Once my VG side project is done I will get back to this. Oh yeah, winter can piss off too. viewtopic.php?f=18&t=25081

Mazda don't usually do a detatchable bell housings except the later S4 RX7 type box. Some E2000 vans came with a FE motor and S4 type box with a remote shifter. Could a van bell, housing twin cam motor, and RX7 box work? Also earlier B2000 had FE sohc 8v motors and smaller gearboxes, could work too? FE experts correct me if I'm wrong. Here it is. I saw this a while ago. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =363466721

From memory, FWD and RWD motors have different auxilary plates on the front and back of the head for the thermostat housing and distributor. Most of them had carbs. They went OK though. The V8 is a good idea too.