Valiant

In a nutshell. Yes. That is my plan.

I'll give you a rub down with the same rag afterward Andy.

Thanks, but no. When it's going I'll give it's track frames a clean, grease it, and maybe give the body a wipe with an oily rag.

Another piece in the puzzle. Air intake and filter done. I picked this Donaldson air cleaner up the other weekend, mounted it so the intake in lined up with the hole in the bonnet,and made a duct to the carb. And recycled the can that came with the crawler.

Thanks Kirk. I've got no plans to paint it. It might get water blasted around the tracks but that'llbe it.

Nearly four months. I haven't given up on this or forgotten about it, just been tied up with other stuff. Has a working clutch now. It's Datsun ends crimped onto a new inner and outer cables. It feels like it'll work well. And... an exhaust. It's quite recycled, left overs from the Anglia exhaust, piece of water pipe etc. The muffler and rain cap cape came from a tractor supplies place, it was surprisingly cheap.

Ball joints, wheel bearings, and suspension bushes sorted. Both ball joints have been rebuilt by HBI Engineering. I've re bushed the inner and sway bar mount bushes, and fitted a new set of wheel bearings to both sides. Just some rust to fix. Here's some broken stuff.

You can run a remote booster on your front circuit only alot larger of older cars ran a system like that. I have a VH40 under the dash on one of my Valiants to boost the front brakes, It works well, the car pulls up nicely with unboosted rear discs. I found it was quite alot of plumbing under the dash when I did mine and you can hear the booster working when you are driving. It doesn't make your dual circuit into a single circuit, the booster goes inline in either circuit you decide to use it in. As mentioned above, I have another Val with no booster, it stops fine too just needs a bit more pressure on the pedal. You might find that your brake pedal has two holes for the master cylinder pushrod on the brake pedal. One closer to the piviot for un boosted opperation the other further away for boosted options. I'm not saying what you should do, just that all three options can work.

I could be keen on them. How wide and what offset are they?

What's happening with the old D Windows?

T5s are quite popular in the States I think. http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_0609_t5_transmission/viewall.html They are quite specific to what they were fitted to, Holden ones have a long input shaft, Camaro ones are leaned over (from memory)etc.

I'm excited about those carbs and manifold from the other end of the country!

Cool. Are they 15x8s? What size tyres?

Cheers Glen. I might have to back out of this deal. We may or may not have got involved in some logs at work with a hiab truck.

So I have this for a while now. It failed a WOF quit badly. So first off the exhaust was in a shit state, not mounted well, leaking, just nasty. we've fitted some headers and I added a GT intake Felix had kicking about. There was no GT carb though so I've made an adaptor to fit the original carb. It seems to work ok. Next up. Ball joints, wheel bearings, and rust.

Hey mate good to see this moving again. Sorry I didn't stop to chat the other day. Tight time schedule etc.

Is this a wagon or a sedan/hatch? From memory... If it's a wagon back your cable right off, start the engine and pump the brakes slowly and firmly about20-30 times then re adjust the cable. If it's a sedan or a hatch you need to take the blanking bung out of the back of the caliper and use a 4mm alen key to wind the piston back out until it the pads bind against the disc. Back it off until it is free and readjust your cable. That's assuming all the rest of the brake job is as it should be.

Yes.

Bring your bikes, it makes it much easier to see whole thing.

YES!

Thanks, I'd love to. Pity it's just a bit to large to be luggage.

Oh hi Jeff. Quite a bit has happened since last update. I got hold of two tractor PTO shafts via a friend who had used them as out drives on his off roader/go cart project. the yokes that came with my tractor were a direct swap with the PTO shaft crosses at one end the other needed two small spacers turned up to take up the clearance. Spacers. With a drive shaft made it needed to be connected to the output shaft. that's where this dubious creation comes into play It's a drive flange welded to the back of a Datsun input shaft. I did it in my lathe and set it up/checked it with a DTI and it seems good. There is still time for it to suck though. With that in mind a drive shaft loop cover seemed like a good idea. Last but not least. The Datsun carb looked a bit complex, ugly, and it sat out past the body line. I couldn't bring myself to cut the bonnet. So with a huge thanks to Goat and Steelies it's SU to the rescue. If anyone needs SU bits talk to Swift Automotive in Hornby the owner is a first class GC.

Hi Dan. Thanks mate I'll have to call in and get it. I'm sure I can make something that works.

Thanks anyway Bart. I have other avenues of inquiry.

Cheers mate. I've done quite a bit to it lately but I can't copy/paste links to photobucket for some reason? Once that issue is resolved I'll update for you.