mjrstar

Progress has been slowed a bit with other jobs on the go.. I did get to spend a bit of time tinkering today.. I had a bit of an issue with the steel distorting, but not too bad.. I used one of those flappy sandy discs that goes on the grinder to finish off the welds...

So I got a bloke in town to fold me up a 4 sided box (no top or bottom) that was 600X600. The plan was to oversize it a bit in case i decided to put a surge tank in at a later date it seemed pretty sweet as I would only have 1 edge to weld up and then plug the base in... This was all good in theory but a second measure underneath revealed that this size box would leave me with little or no diff head clearance.. In the end I trimmed 60mm off 2 sides and then tacked the box together.. working with new clean steel is awesome compared to rusty old Shit. Next I will start with the brackets for mounting the tank, filter and pump.. once that is sorted I will weld the base into the box sides... I will probably also have to devise some form of bender to put a 90 degree flat on the top of the box to provide something for the lid to attach to.. - no major plan here I'll just play it by ear.. Not too sure if the box will get fully welded in or if I should make it removable?

^^ sounds delightful Mr bogangeof. Also will try and make it although my plans differ slightly from those mentioned above...

I thought i better help mr speedflow put his kids through uni so i picked up this pile of pieces, including a very shiny fuel tank (yuck) and a walbro external pump. I'll probably do a mock up of the box in cardboard before i crack out the grinder / welder... plan is to organise some of this nonsense out back (I'm not sure if you can see all 17 hose clips in that photo) I am also hoping to reduce fuel stench in the car and gain enough room to fit up the handbrake system too...

depending on the ride height you might get away with fitting the flares without cutting away the factory guards underneith.. I ran my car like that for a couple of years before i got around to cutting away at them. the front is pretty easy really if you mark it up nicely and take your time.. you won't see the cut away once the flares go on anyway.. the rear is a bit tougher. any 1/2 decent panelbeater should be able to sort it out if you stump up some coin..

I chased this on my wifes corolla for a few days, what you need to know is one side massively high or the other side low.. i ended up getting the valve rebuilt as it was cheaper than buying a new one.. I foolishly tried new shoes and cylinders first to no avail. If it is low on one side then look at shoes and leaky / weak cylinders, if however it is high your proportioning valve is not doing it's job..

cheers for the explanation, I don't think i'll go down the same track of increasing wheelbase in my car, as it will only lead to moving the effective front / rear weight distribution further forward and it must be pretty nose heavy as it is... looking at your pictures i reckon i might (depending on shock eye widths) be able to make 4 large plates, 2 on each side to pick up the lower arm mounts and lower rear shock mounts too.. Will probably focus on the fuel system first though...

It was good to see this back in action, even with a few teething issues, top marks dude..

^^ That would be awesome thanks... I had a look at the early pages on your project thread for a bit of inspiration.. I reckon some laser cut flanges are on the cards for both the lower arm mounts and the shock mounts, what did you use on your car for the rear coil-overs? I was also thinking about the lowering of the diff end arm position and wondering if it is this to regain a horizontal line on a severely lowered car or is there more to it? (my car is not really all that low at present)

I brought the front up 15mm before the track day which has helped with the front end feel. The rear is all factory arms which as you guys mention above would be a good place to start looking to improve. The 33 year old rubbers have probably done thier dash. Sorry no video which is a shame as it does sound pretty decent.

I have used one of these on slightly lighter stuff and did not have any issues with doing some fairly tight bends, are you running the seam of the pipe on the outwards radius?

Track day was a success, looks like it leaks a bit of fuel out the filler when it's full.... I have ordered a 40L fuel cell so stay tuned for the progress on that.. Some minor brake shudder which I reckon could be down to my driving style as it seem to get better once I started working the brakes a bit harder... still struggling for rear end grip at 120-130kph, probably should have played with / at least checked tyre pressures, but happy all the same as i did around 90 laps of the short track with no issues... Didn't even need to open the tool box..

pretty sure this is the PDF I have.. http://www.supra.co.nz/1g/1GGEService.pdf Section A9 onwards...

I have some stuff in PDF form which might do the trick, PM me your e-mail address if you like.. Also this probably needs to go into tech help if a helpful moderator comes along....

I have one similar you can borrow for a bit if you want... (I'll have to make sure I know where it is though)

I think the traction issue is 2 fold, firstly there is not enough weight in the rear, and secondly it's running some semi slicks which are past their best before date.. It tends to hook up a little bit better at the track once it gets some heat into the tyres... although it's still not great.. on the looks front, it's ok from a distance, but my back-yarder panel / paint skills let it down a bit when you are closer than about 20ft away..

cheers guys, fingers crossed it doesn't decide to part company, the wing on my evo is held on by 15 (yes Fifteen) bolts, whereas the one on the hatch of this thing is only held on by 7...

I got the injector wiring sorted out with some new crimp terminals from NZEFI, also wired in the new alternator... and fixed a minor oil leak (i hope) and a fuel weep from one of the fuel pump outlets... The road was dry so I took it for a burn up the road, the boost flutter seems to go away at full throttle, but is there at around 60-80% , problem is that on boost is not normally the best place to be using copious amounts of throttle. Had a minor moment at around 3500rpm in 5th going up a bit of a hill when it decided traction is for fags..... I decided it was time for the car to go back in the shed.... Proof it actually went outside: It's eaten an exhaust gasket but luckily is just the down pipe one so it's a easy/simple fix..

Well that fully sux, I assume that's then exit of the hairpin at Pukekohe? For some inspiration this is my mates Evo which he injured at Puke, after finding some donor bits from a libero it's back to full health. Before After:

FYI just in case anyone else ends up needing some I ended up getting a handful off NZEFI for $1 each, so that was a win!

I used some M5 riv-nuts... they seemed to have done the trick...

looking good, I would anticipate a possible issue with burning of the driveshaft output seals if they are no subjected to the occasional dose of oil.. i reckon a simple pump/squirter setup might be worth looking into as Mr notch eluded to above the major splash lube for a FWD gearbox will tend to be from the CW & P.. also I am sure you would have already anticipated blocking off the factory breather location and fitting something at the new top of the gearbox.. but how will you go about draining the oil out? it could be worth looking into a suction tube with a fitting on it to drag the oil out like a lot of big machinery has? Once again I am impressed with the lenghts you are going to in the pursuit of maximum low..

this 200A machine.. http://www.esseti.co.nz/xamig200cmts-mu ... -p-98.html The plan was to get a spool gun for very occasional tinkering with the likes of inter cooler / radiator mounts, inlet manifolds etc.. The added plan with the spool gun was being able to swap out for a mini spool of stainless wire without having to stuff around with a 5kg roll - if the need for burning some holes in stainless was to arise.

I did a bit of a youtube search and there seems to be a method of basically stacking a whole bunch of tack welds in close proximity which seemed to leave a resonable result.. I guess I could get one and give it a hoon, even if it was just used for tacking suff up and then i can take it to a mate of mine to give it the Tig treatment..

This is a great conversation topic, what i found going to a taller ratio (from 4.3 to 3.9) in my starlet was that the car worked well with the increased load and actually made the car a fair bit quicker, the issue i had is that it would not make full boost in 1st or second gear as it would simply rev out too quick. Giving it longer legs was a great upgrade. This would be an isolated occurence and was probably based predomanantly around the current power to weight factor. you could pretty muh ignore this arguement on a N/A car. Ideally rather than just changing final drives the best thing to do is get a decent gear set, normall comprising of a taller 1st gear and then tighter spaced gears between 2nd and 5th. This provides all the benifits mentioned above, but probably the biggest improvement will be the time it takes to shift. Clutch mass and speed difference in the shafts are probably the 2 biggest limiting factors for how quick you gearbox will accept a gearchange. (other than general mechanical condition) I noticed a huge difference in my mini when I changed to a close ratio setup, you could feel the synchros were not having to work so hard to "speed Match" the gear selection. it will no swap cogs as fast as you dare wrench on the lever. Pretty sure most will TL:DR this but Meh..