mjrstar

Accusump, I do wonder how effective these things are, I'd say a typical engine oil pump might be doing 60 litres a minute.. say there is 5 litres of oil total capacity, and a litre of this is off doing things like sticking to the walls of the drain back and hanging out under the cam covers etc..whilst the engine is running. (Probably more) We then assume that this "surge"( oil moving away from the oil pick-up or not returning to the pick up point in sufficient quantities that subject the pump to a condition where it can draw air).. Typically these accumulators look to be about 2 litres or thereabouts, so it's safe to assume that there is something like 2-4 seconds of stored oil pressure in there? is that enough to make a real world difference when full throttle max rpm on the exit of the final corner at Hampton Downs? I dunno maybe it is or maybe these things are just shiny additions people bolt into their car? PS the sump and the sump making process is indeed pretty cool, and makes my modified sump in the mx5 look very caveman in comparison..

For your firewall material I had McLeod sheet metals in the tron cut me a bit and roll some beads into it, went hard for what it is/was.

I've got a couple of non intrusive options underway at the moment including limiting the discharge valve max open percentage and increasing the level... it's kind of a knife edge system with a steam heater on one side and a condensate heater on the other plus a target temp of 225 degrees+/- 1/2 a degree plus an ever changing automatic set point... I'm pretty confident a vortex breaker is the correct weapon of choice, but I can see how chopping up the inlet could also help.. It's an insulated pressure vessel, so externally pretty much stuck with what we have. I have done the diy voretx breaker on a long stick poked into tank through an access hatch whilst running a few years ago, I suspect that fix(bodge) is still in place until someone pulls it out thinking it's garbage and throws it away.. it's amazing how slow the swirl can be and how deep and aggressive a vortex can become..

Yeah I figured worse, the level transmitter suggests the tank is over 50% full but potentially telling lies. Vortex can be brutal, even with just minimal suction head from a pump let alone 20+bar in a condenser vessel with a bunch of steam hooning at a couple of hundred degrees.. I looked deeper into the system and I'm even more convinced that she's got the mean swirl on.. I wish it was a glass vessel so you could see what's happening.

Ok science nerds, I think I know the answer if I have a tall pressurised cylindrical vessel (25+bar head) 1/2 full of water with a drain at the bottom is it the same or more or less susceptible to vortexing than the equivalent tank without the head of pressure?

There are places like carbotech that will reline backing plates to whatever you supply (if they don't have an off the shelf for you). I run thier xp8 series in my civic which are legit in my opinion..

The scotch pad polish option does sound like a nice idea to improve the surface finish on the holes..

Bosch pdf suggests 14% crush on the oring and less than 1 degree from centreline. Maybe you start your drilling operations after you have the injector.. I think 11 and 14 are the 2 most common rail fitting diameter which probably equates to a something like a 10.5 or 13.5mm hole respectively. Data sheet Injection Valve EV 14 (short and long options if that's your weapon of choice) - Bosch Motorsport https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_67797771_Injection_Valve_EV_14.pdf Yeah you'd definitely drill the beefy side, although the rail extrusion I got wasn't offset it was symmetrical.

I feel the surface finish from a milling cutter and rigid clamping arrangement is going to be optimal over simply drilling the bore for the injector orings to seal against, even though it's only aluminium. Do you just want some pics and dimensions from a stock type aluminium fuel rail to compare? I probably have an old Evo fuel rail here you could borrow/take a look at? also I'd probably consider getting it anodised once it's completed just for the surface hardness and corrosion resistance.. Edit yes there is sleeve style adapters for stepping up the injector fitting, I'd suggest avoiding these if possible, we used some on my mates 2jz supra, and even the smallest angular misalignment caused a fuel weep situation. This sort of crap. https://www.efihardware.com/products/c354/Fuel-Injector-Height-Adapters

They probably won't fly apart as you only need sensible rpm, to make solid power numbers on a 4 litre turbo with dual vct. Good reliable fuelling and boost control and not trying to dial in a hero tune should prevent torching the tops of the piston (which an OEM or aftermarket are probably as prone to as each other)

Awesome ,that's going to be a pretty cosy fit on the rear! I settled with a 205 soft compound on the rear of my ek, then either a 205 soft on the front for wet or short runs, and a 225 AR1 for longer events. Works alright.

Nice wheels, are you intending on running the 16x8 225 on the rear too?

Not sure if it's an option for you but on my mazda I made a nipple that used an old brake bleed nipple at the high point on the cooling system. Crack it open use some clear hose and dump it into the expansion tank until there is no more bubbles.. it did take a couple of drinks (cooling cycles) from the expansion tank for it to work..

Bex link might just solve the ride height, travel and packaging issues, no need for diff mounted centre pivot.

Engine is purring again (until next time)with one new injector.

Pulled the injectors, #3 had no remains of the seat seal and needed a lot of encouragement with a homemade slide hammer. #4 also needed a slide hammer but seat seal was in tact..both had a lot of carbon build up.. The other 4 injectors looked like brand new and seat seals in good condition... I switched 3 and 2 injectors around and the high deviation number switched to cylinder #2 so I'll order one new injector and see how it goes.

If you do decide on HRB conversion a couple of things.. Make sure you can make a decent surface on the box to mount it. If you don't feel like paying a billion dollars for a Tilton or whatnot then you could consider a saab bearing. Https://www.ebay.com/itm/223024786078 but check your release bearing contact to clutch fingers as converting the bearing is a bit of a ballache.

Actually no fuck that, the installs I have seen that go nuts generally have pullies of very similar diameter, I reckon with the alternator being small diameter it might not fly to bits... Send it as is but maybe be prepared to alter it if grenades itself.

You'll Probably find that a tiny little idler setup with almost no tension on it mid span would eliminate any risk.

I'm running one of these, but I've had it a few years now and it appears inflation has not been kind, I think it was about $1700 trade price including adjustable hand piece and 8m lead when i got mine.. https://www.saecowilson.co.nz/product/wia-weldarc-200i-ac-dc-arc-tig-welder/

Nothing to add other that Eugene did pretty decent work at a pretty decent price. Some people had run-ins with him but I thought he was algood.. Mate of mine has a single plate autoclutch in his 500+ wheel kw supra that he's used drifting, used on the street, and run full slicks at the track.. no dramas..

Have seen belts turn to dust at high(ish) rpm on 4g63t Evo's too. I think it was an order of frequency of the bigger diameter pulley vs the longest free span length. It was super repeatable and happened within a few seconds at certain rpm across a number of cars.

I have done some more reading, one of the reasons for an increase in injector is to smooth the idle if the engine doesn't see the increase in energy from the firing of that cylinder. It might also be reducing fuel on the other cylinders as part of the smoothing strategy. So potential for seal being my issue. Research suggests that over about 1.5 is greater than normal and requires investigation. So yeah the ~5 is bad.

Do I do this by capturing the leak off volume into a container at idle or something?