mjrstar

It's looking like this step down transfer might be the issue. If I should be getting low voltage ac across each off the paired colours and it's got nothing, but it has good 230v in.. Transformer has open circuit when resistance test across the 230 in. (not sure this is correct?) It has zero ohms/ continuity on the output pairs.

Good point, Everything is labeled as 240 inside the unit.. So yeah I don't think there is a step-down to 110 anywhere.

Because I'm getting pretty much zero black to black but ~230 between black /yellow or black/ orange?

Ha, I have found a pdf for testing /fault finding, my previous search was junk! https://www.sportsmith.net/images/product_support\sportsart\Repair Manuals\6300_6310 Treadmill Repair Guide.pdf When it says black to black or whatever is that between the two black pins?

Only an overall / general layout wiring diagram so far unfortunately..

Wife's treadmill has become no-go, now if the was a cheap $1000 or whatever machine I'd send it to scrap and replace. But it's a gym spec heavy duty thing that's going to cost 5 grand or more for something similar.. The circuit board is showing no signs of life when powered up,(no clicks or less lightning up) I found the 250v infeed varistor looked sick so I took the board in and had an electronic guy replace that but he wasn't interested in further fault finding, still no dice. There are a bunch of relays and another transformer and an inductor coil, all of which seem to have no visible signs of damage.. I suspect it's something as simple a relay but equally a voltage spike may have fried other components.. I guess the main issue is it weighs a couple of hundred kgs so can't easily take it to the shop.. I guess what I'm asking Is there a systematic way I can check off each of the components which is likely to be the problem from most to least likely? A replacement board may or may not be available for about a grand, with the added complexity that I can only find a 110v unit, EX usa and it might be one of the other things that is stopping it from firing into life, not the board itself.

Probably cheaper in a small vehicle to run a petrol i suspect.. Last time I ran the numbers her car costs more in RUC than fuel per 1000km. I suspect it may have changed at current fuel prices.

Wife's diesel merc. I reckon if you were trying to save fuel (maybe with air con off etc) it'd crack into the high 3's. Pity about road user charges which really hurt running costs on economical diesels.

You know the jump pack is an expensive plastic box with some leads coming out the top and a sealed agm battery inside yeah?

This is all a ruse though yeah, he's gotta be building an NA 2jz on itbs and big cams to rev to 9000rpm?

If there are a bunch of these installations running around without any dramas then it's probably not worth over thinking.. If someone has already done the legwork and it works then sweet as. It seems to be a pretty well documented instruction..

Hey look, it might be sweet as and if that's how it's designed to work then it's probably OK,(I hope for your sake it is) but in my case I had the box off a few times to sort the issue of it not being able to bleed all the air out. It sucks to not really be able to see clutch throw like you can with an external slave when troubleshooting... Having the shortest hard line run solved my issues after starting out with an over-length flexi setup not unlike yours.. If someone else doesn't have to go through that headache I did then that's great! It looks like the bottom hose off the slave is the bleed (not great for getting rid of air?) And it also looks like the bleed hose it a bit compromised on the top radius.. Also will the bulkhead fittings give you enough room in the trans tunnel? Good luck.

Preload won't change the rate on a linear spring, it'll will change ride height.

The top linear bushings are available in a few sizes.. Places like saeco list them under prefix code LLB. I had a mission finding replacement ones for my aragosta inverted shocks, but yeah definitely like @cletus with his suggestion to try and keep grit and grime out of that area. You maybe working the suspension harder if you have more grip rather than the tyre giving way first?

Re weld prep chemicals (sorry I started it) I'm not phased if someone is making an informed decision. It if others browse this thread for advice at least there is a bit of info here for people to view and make thier own minds up.

Tig arc will wander with a magnet for sure, have not noticed with mig, maybe at really low amperage? Also brakecleen is nasty shit especially when heated, I would recommended something like maybe acetone for weld prep. https://www.thefabricator.com/thewelder/article/arcwelding/cleaning-material-with-brake-cleaner-before-welding-a-risky-move-that-can-turn-deadly

Any difference will be negligible, put it wherever is convenient to access. Maybe even mount it in the cab do you can adjust it on the fly, then install it permanently once it's set up.

Cool project, and great progress.. if I was you I would consider some hard lines for the clutch slave cylinder inside the bellhousing rather than those braided ones doing the loop-de-loop.

Bit of spam here, I just checked my 14.0 run in my civic vs your slower 14.0 some of the numbers are insanely close.. This is my stock b18cr with 3rd,4th,5th short gearset in a 990kg ek civic.

I'm no expert but this is where I'd start off, set the pulse at 60-70 percent and 1 second, add filler every second pulse. Keep an eye on the pool if it's cooling off too much increase the percentage. I don't have a pedal, once you get comfortable with an adjustable hand piece it's probably more convenient (can weld in more positions without relying on a pedal) try a few different hand positions maybe try pointing your index finger, and try not to grip the torch too firmly.

If you are struggling with too much heat on thin aluminum and your machine has a pulse function it's worth having a tinker with. The other thing is when playing with small bits of scrap they heat soak very fast and behave differently to a larger part. (far more likely to sag out) Once the work piece is too hot its time to do something else for a bit.

Awesome time, quicker than my 1800 civic..

You are most likely all over this, I didn't see a photo of the back side of the HRB, but one thing I learnt the hard way in a retrofit of a very similar looking Saab HRB into the mx5, is that the back side of the unit needs a solid base. As the rear cover where you gain access to service the hydraulics is a crimped in disc. This will not withstand hydraulic pressure without being sandwiched so it can't move.

Is that turbo return point below the oil level line? My preference is to have the drain point above the oil level in the sump if at all possible.. Although in saying that if you haven't had any issues to date its probably sweet as!

^ good advice from kpr and driftnmaz.. There are a bunch of options for oversizing the internal flapper of the Ford /Garrett exhaust housings and off the shelf uprated actuators too. 7 ports into one can be a little tricky to fabricate (6 plus the waste gate) If I was on a budget I'd be looking for a plain bearing borgwarner s200 from a John deere or similar out of the usa rather than an aftermarket China spec falcon turbo.. Preferably with the green paint on it if possible. T4 flange also gives you a bit more real-estate to plumb up those 7 pipes. Although in saying that if a Ford 3576 popped up cheap enough I reckon it'd do the job, with an oversized flapper.. Are you after a street able daily, or a weekend type car.. I'm not really up with 1/4 mile times but assume you'll need low to mid 300kw for a 12 sec pass in a full weight Commodore? Depending on 60ft and transmission setup.