BlownCorona

for bronze wheels i highly recommend the bmw paint code 'A32'i had a paint shop mix me up some paint and i used a compressor ect. but you can probably get it made into an aerosol too. i did my old s4 wheels bronze with that code. i did a gloss clear, but a matte or satin clear could be applied depending on what you want.

MUCH more success today! shortened up the brake pushrod and made some changes to how its retained. to further shorten up its length inside the master cylinder. bled all four wheels and it just seemed to go right today. pedal felt great. just how id hoped it would with the particular valving id choosen. the car doesn't have a booster due to space issues. but i didn't want a rock hard pedal like a race car. the valving i chose gave more mechanical advantage over the slave cylinders at the "cost" of longer and a bit spongier pedal throw. which is also exactly what i wanted. the car brakes just as good if not better than the original boosted brakes with incredible control over the brake pressure. you can lock the rear brakes up with moderate pressure, which isnt actually a good thing, however the fuel tank is dead empty and i limped back to the garage ending up on 19psi of fuel pressure, so itll probably stop doing that with a bit of weight, otherwise a simple 2 port bias valve will sort it right out! it feels like the fronts would lock up if you really stood on it harder than you probably ever would which is about right. very very happy as this has been one extremely long headache and im over the moon to have it finally working how i wanted it.

would the vehicle weight, especially under heavy braking not force the to their max neg camber? or is the clamping friction enough?

I met Julians wife when I journeyed up to Carterton and bought a chevy silverado for work from them. She seems real nice and switched on and I assume her husband is too. Awesome oldschool workshop at any rate!

Ahh I see, thought it was just two normal bench seats. A couple of decent high back seats would be the go in that case.

2009ish Dodge ram rear seat be what you want? if your ever in chch im sure i could score you one out of one of the wrecks at work.

from memory i also cracked the bleeder on the side of the master to see what happens and the wheels released. but i cant remember for 100% certainty. anyway since its just a master cylinder bolted straight to the firewall (and a bunch of extra bracing) theres only one pushrod. i had a look at it before i had to pack up for the day/week and im pretty sure it wasnt holding pressure on, non the less i had the opportunity to take about 5mm off the end of it no worries, haven't had a chance to fit it but will do, and see if that fixes the issue first up. i think ill also recruit someone to help me bleed the brakes the old fashioned way, i borrowed a compressed air bleeder from work and im not that sure it works very well. it sure sucked the fluid through but the bubbled seemed to never stop. i miss the days when this car was my one and only daily. and to think, i had delusions of sorting the brakes today and trying to book in a cert on my day off on friday. HA! day off probably wont even be spent working on the car either!

can you snap off the opposite tooth to the missing tooth and tell the ecu the sensor is as crank speed with a 15-1 trigger. thats what ive done with my dizzy mounted sensor (12 tooth hall effect wheel with two oposing missing teeth). unsure if 15 teeth is any better for the maths though. HOWEVER. i also have a 36-1 crank mounted trigger wheel waiting to go on when i also change the superchrager pulley for more boost (is doest fit with the current pully) because im 99% most of my shitty idle and roughish cruise is down to all the backlash in the dizzy setup and all the tricks made to get it to run thinking its got a crank trigger.

the more i think about it, the more that seems wrong, the cylinder should be doing work the moment the piston starts to move yeah? maybe its a clearance problem after all.

im pretty sure it does. its all custom made so could be fucked up. but when wound right in to give as much clearance you have to press the pedal nearly to the floor before you feel anything engage in the cylinder. theres a possibility that its still not enough clearance though. im just not sure how to tell for sure without pulling the rod out, shortening it, and possibly finding out that its now too short and im back at square one. its several hours work to get the master in and out.

Well i spoke too soon. im currently trying to bleed up the brakes, which in itself is going horribly. but the problem with the wheels binding up with pressure from the brake system not releasing when you let off the pedal is still there. Does anyone have any ideas why this would be happening? its a brand new master cyl, and when i crack the brake lines the wheels immediately go back to rolling very freely, takes a pump or two and they are back to dragging, but not locked on like the brakes were pressed. im really sick of working on this car, all i want to do is drive it and these endless boring jobs with non stop problems is really hammering my motivation. couple with only getting about an hour a week to do anything on it.

The suspected residual valve that shouldn't be there. This valve helps hold positive pressure on drum brake slave cylinders. But is not required for disk brakes and causes slight pressure to stay on. Have removed and even though they need bleeding, can tell its fixed the issue

Continuing through my checklist to get it cert ready, scored a half day on Friday so spend the afternoon at work fixing everything (or so i thought) first problem was that the handbrake cable went straight through the driveshaft hoop. so i made the spreader bar that the cable loops around and goes off to the two wheels slightly wider. and reshaped the driveshaft hoop a little. this also stopped the exhaust hitting the hoop. bonus. i also replaced a bunch of exhaust gaskets and its sealed up good now. but compared to the crown it sounds like shit, so that will require attention futher down the line, i might even put a massive muffler on and shut it up, letting the supercharger noise be the main sound. with all that done i was please and in the frame of mind that that car should be able to be booked in for cert, im not sure on the brakes. the datsun 1200 master cylinder has made the pedal feel not solid like a race car now. its a bit spongy which i expected. but it still doesnt stop very well. now im not sure if it really doesn't stop very well. or it doesn't stop very well compared to the recently sold Audi S4 i was dailying, which i fitted 325mm brakes to, and would probably throw you through the windshield. so i think ill send it for cert and if the cert man isnt happy ill figure out something then anyway i gave the wheels a rotate, and noticed the front brakes were dragging, im 99% sure the new master cylinder, although sold to me as a disk/drum unit probably has the drum brake one way valve things in both front and rear, so ill have to remove that and re bleed the brakes. no pictures cause i got into too much of a roll...

+1 for putting the vtwin in something safer. i wanted to suggest that, and typed it out a few times but never felt right suggesting it given the situation. a caged buggy would be awesome with this motor + turbo

no worries. most can be had out of japan auctions for next to nothing

Yes it was spintires. Excited to hear there's a new version. /spam

@HighLUX I chucked up some pictures of broken stuff in the build thread

a post mostly for @HighLUX but i went around the car and took pics of anything broken i could see. obviously some are more damaged than others and some could be glued back together pretty easily. im mostly interested in a functioning aircon / radio button panel as mine is broken and i cant turn the fan off! and the radio surround panel. both parts i can get pretty cheaply from japan. im also interested in electric window switches plus their plastic surround. some of mine are broken and some switches dont work, could probably be fixed with a tickle up on the contacts though. its missing the bonnet trim, but im undecided what to do here. i dont really like how it bulges up with the trim in place. i may look at making something more smooth. same goes for the 2x missing lower door trims, im probably going to delete them all for a smoother look. the trim behind the door pull on the LR door is broken, but id be interested in a full set as they break so easy. Front Left corner light is cracked, might get pulled up on a wof, same goes with the Rear Left tail light, but i specifically want this style tail light as i love the way it looks compared to a normal style with the indicators up top. what ever the missing trim is on the "superwoofers" would be nice to get too. Also on the hunt for manual conversion parts. i already have a W55 and a G-W bellhousing. depending on what ratios suit better the option to trade for my brothers W57 is there. brother has a 1g flywheel for me. will probably just get the driveshaft modified rather than try and find a used front half. looks like i can get a brand new clutch pedal from amayama fairly cheap. just need to see someone about how to read the Toyota parts cataloger and what "sub assembly" actually includes. i might be able to do the same with the handbrake lever too, but the real tricky part is going to be a manual center console.

Does anyone remember what that computer game where you off road old Russian military trucks is called? I suddenly have a desire to play it again

it reminds me of a Pinzgauer which are also awesome.

Damn that's cool, never have I started reading a project thread and been so disinterested, and then so rapidly brought around as I have on this thread! "Heres a slogged out looking dyna I paid beers for, several pictures later and a few words and it looks like a beast"

oh shit, i think my house is made from hotwheels display stands! i joke thats awesome, ive never seen a hotwheels D Type

ooh could be pretty interested in that! will put together a list of bits i need. not a manual by chance is it? and what colour interior?

very likely. made the trip from auckland through kapiti on saturday and then through to christchurch late sunday. was an awesome cruise down, if only the rear diff wasn't geared so low and it could make any sort of power at alll uphill! that extra boost just makes so much heat and kills the HP. the car is pretty rough looking, but the bones are solid so it should make for an excellent car once a fresh coat of paint is applied. the interior is in remarkably good condition and will benifit hugely from a shampoo and wetvac i think. ill grab some more photos of the car when i get a few seconds

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