BlownCorona

If you want one of those drain trays, the dodge rams have them. You know where they are. /please dont break in a steal one, we get enough of that as is. I can grab one off if you want?

Likewise. But I'll just approach it methodically. I think the 20r piston will be the ticket I just need to get my hands on one. Entire quality 20r piston kits can be had out of the states for $150usd

Have also considered moving to a turbo since I have the supercharged crown which is a keeper. How much softer on the engine would that be? If its negligible then I'd rather the blower simply because I think they are much cooler, even if they are way worse haha

Nah with the hemi head I didn't think scooping material from the head would work. Not sure if I'm comfortable with 9.2:1 especially when I was aiming for 8.5:1 but I'll see what I can dig up flat top piston wise. I do have an even higher compression head here that could either make an angry N/A engine or maybe work well with zero deck pistons. And a standard gasket, standard gaskets have been reported trouble free even up to 30psi

I don't think I can deck the pistons any useful amount, they would get too thin real quick. It's a closed deck block so clamping force would probably be OK, but have heard of issues with fluid sealing with copper?

Those 20r pistons might also need valve reliefs and I've no idea how to do that.

10.5:1 with stock stuff. I could get it down to around 9.2:1 with machining the pistons a little. And a 1.5mm cosmetic gasket. The combustion chamber is hemi design. I did think about taking some material out but I have no idea about that side of things. Cooper gasket and o ring block didn't seem a particularly cheap option. Just a pic off the Internet but the same head. As for the piston, I assume I could machine a chamfer on the dome the same angle and depth as the valve relief pretty safely, wouldn't want to take any off the top though especially if building for boost. Piston on the left is what I've got. Another option is 20r pistons, they look to have a very small dome and might be the key. But I'm struggling to reliabley compare them.

Struggling to find a way to keep the compression low, this block has been decked a fair amount. Building a nice N/A motor is an option but I'd really like to keep the supercharger. Any ideas? A really thick mls gasket is close to 500 bucks before shipping...

thats so good, i can only imagine the barries faces when that rolled up. must ask the vintage machinery enthusiast at work if he attended, hed be one of the ones that would have loved it.

Made this baby walker trainer for my daughters upcoming first birthday. Silloette of my corona painted in its actual paint. I never work with wood so super stoked on how this came out. Kmart fishboard skateboard donated its wheels and that's about all I needed to buy. Bonus is it gave me a chance to test out my new to me, Sata 4000b spray gun. Shit it's awsome! Can't wait to paint to crown with it, colossal step up from the supercheap auto guns...

Engine mounts trimmed and sitting in place. Will need that leg bent in to sit against the subframe and probably a brace going rearward too. Too easy!

we bought it from the local speedway supplier shop so i assume those guys wouldnt stock it if it was total snake oil

interesting! what brand? (if there are multiple brands) we used redline to be fair, we never actually ran the engines without water wetter so i guess i cant comment on how good it actually works. lingish post

You could also consider running water wetter to help make the most of what you've got. We used that stuff on the jetpacks as heat was a problem and so was weight, so big engines and small cooling systems ect. Seemed to work well.

Back in the game! a literal bootload of 18rg parts just turned up at work. purchased from a mates mates father up north. highlights include; a mint block, that has been professionally honedand surfaced. nearly all rebuild parts. a couple of really clean heads and a partly complete dismantled but complete one. the early "230" head has port work. but ill most likley use the very clean and resurfaced "270" efi head as they had bigger ports anyway and are much stronger with a lower compression, they just had wimpy cams, so the 230 cams may find there way in there too. a slightly lighted flywheel, which will probably be ideal for a street car. once the crown is shipped off to panel in the next week or so, ill hook into building this engine. i need to do alot of measuring and thinking about what combo of parts to run though.

shit i thought i put a link https://motobrain.net/details i dont think its CAN, but you could probably run a can signal up to an arduino thinger and then have it spit out the inputs for the PDM right next to it? i dont know much about arduinos but have read a bit of the stuff youve been doing. will have a look at this stuff you mentioned. im going to be throwing the MoTeC m400 i have into the corona at some point instead of it literally collecting dust, so CAN just became a hole lot more interesting too

i mean, the most we can say is that its still kicking out a voltage. who knows if its the right voltage. probably less of a concern for a little N/A engine, but fuck taking that chance on something where AFRs actually matter. in other news has anyone come across a solid state PDM thats back yard budget friendly? id love to use one but the cheapest ive found is 300 usd plus freight. (thats probably really cheap compared to motorsport spec $3000) is it something you diy?

How it should have always been. The pedal set fits great. I'll need to cut the hole in the firewall for the master cylinder but that's the extent of it it. Seeing three pedals makes me very excited for the future of this car.

Flywheel and heavy duty clutch acquired. Have the flywheel a quick sand blast and will machine the surface before fitment. Have ordered, Input bearing Flywheel bolts Pressure plate bolts Pressure plate dowels Rear main seal Still needed, Slave cylinder Maybe a master / I have one from an old corona which is maybe the same. The hosing that goes between it.

in my corona i drilled a hole in the side of the tank near the base and fitted an AN bulkhead fitting with a 45 degree fitting on the inside to get the pickup as low as possible. and then hooked that up to a filter > external fuel pump > fuel rail > regulator then used the original fuel line as the return. the only problem i have is that the fuel pump is higher than the level of the tank sometimes, so has been knowed to unprime itself. but i think this is more to do with the second hand 80s celica supra pump i used, ill upgrade to something actually new and it should have a little better suction. but fuel pumps dont like sucking up fuel very much. i may also install a check valve so it helps maintain its prime. super easy and a kind of cheap and shitty way to do it. i was in a hurry to get the efi engine in for my wedding, but has posed no problems to far so ill probably keep it that way.

With the engine blowing on the corona bringing the plan to certify that and daily it while i build the crown to a grinding halt. i came to terms with the fact that i was probably going to have to buy a fourth car to daily while i build the crown asap because i was worried there may be rust hiding that would deteriorate the longer i waited. so with a new cheap cheap boring daily acquired. this weekend i set to stripping the crown down, initially for rust and body work, and then for paint! Big pile of parts removed and stashed untill the mythical day of reassembly? Surprisingly i found very minimal rust. found some where i didnt think there was any (under the rear windscreen) and found next to none where i thought was quite bad (around the tops of the screens) ive yet to remove the front and rear glass so this could change but it looks solid. some minor rust at the base of a couple of doors. but only on the inner skins and the lip that the boot seat presses on is quite bad. none of this will really be my problem anyway, ill just have to pay the money. If your the cunt who bogged over the rust under the rear window. im going to punch you in the dick. some people just shouldn't be allowed out of their cage.

Yes please to a nice metallic bronze or dark blue one for the crown! Would tie in the planned body colour or interior colour very nicely.

hmmm ive got a small section of that aeroflow 400 on the corona that perished in a mater of months after install (wasn't new when i got it, but still) i think ill steer clear of it forever.

tempting best get it running i think..

nah that throttle has to be where it is. its part of a huge manifold. which probably works really well. plus ive always liked cowl hoods. i think itll suit the mx5 well. heat dissipation will be an issue too, so thats a big plus.