BlownCorona

finally got around to cleaning some things for a measure up and a parts order. the engine is all stock sizing wise. however when i cleaned the oil from the bores i discovered they really wernt that flash. cyl 1 & 2 are pretty okay, some staining which would come out with a hone. but cyl 3 & 4 have some fairly deep corrosion when the pistons/rings sat, from when this engine was sitting in a field for years. Cyl 1 Seems i didnt photograph Cyl 2, looks much like 1 Cyl 3 (the worst) Cyl 4 quite gutted, always seems like nothing ever goes smoothly on this car, theres always something. perhaps this post should be in the depression thread cause not very much has gone well in the past wee while. i haven't got the gear at home to measure how deep the corrosion is. but can borrow it from work. its looking like my options now are to try and find a new second hand good block, or if its not too deep, bore it 1mm over and use the 89.5mm forged pistons that are available. this will add over $1500 to the bill and probably 6 months of saving up if not more. im surprised to find this since it ran awesome, and the compression was great, even when i suspected an issue and checked it very recently. please give educated opinions here. including options for perhaps yet another engine swap, although that will most likely cost more and i can personally think of any an engine id rather see in the car.

perfect, should hopefully be able to dimple the cutouts too, so shouldnt be any lost strength. there are already large oval holes where i want holes anyway, no clue what for. perhaps air con was an option, but id doubt it on a 71 corona.

Can anyone tell me if i can cut/enlarge existing large holes in my radiator panel to fit inter cooler hoses though? heard no end of conflicting info. not really sure how im meant to get pipework out in front of the radiator if i cant. will need to be cert able.

maybe ask palmside if you can swap it out? if the new one makes the noise, they know the reg was fine and can sell it no problem? pretty sure its within your cga rights to get a new one.

ive got a genuine tomei reg on my car, pretty happy with it. but there are ALOT of knock offs of them, so buy from a reputable place.

that crane fits the width perfectly. A+

that fire truck one is sick! i think you need that semi wellside tray edit and the roll bar please

i cant help too much, but i threw that fucking huawei router into the dump, lobbed it for distance even. i dunno if its a QC thing, but mine was the worst electrical thing ive ever delt with, replaced it with a reasonably flash TP Link item and haven't had an issue since. except with our vodafone tv which wasnt router related but they couldnt remote into it and snoop around, the overseas help desk guy got upset when i said i threw the router in the dump and asked if i could go retrieve it.... as i think hand was alluding to, hopefully your issues are fixed with a better quality router.

It's still beers and pizza and car crashes. I'm lucky. The IT guy also knows you nismocapri on other areas of the Internet and mentioned you lived next to office manager. Small world. The road legal ram is gone unfortunately. It certainly should go hard for what it is!

i have, that shit crazy fast. there is also a Mercedes M120 v12 going into one, that one fits like a glove too, an XXS glove over an XXL foot. fits none the less. and it will sound like a zonda if hes done it right, funnily enough we also have one of those engines at work, in an sl600 race car we built, its a gigantic engine, truly a monster. sadly the motor is fucked, so its getting similar treatment to my car, except we'll use one of the Hemi 5.7 beasts we sometimes get. i figured i didn't need an additional 25% power over the 4.7 in an mx5, with the added bonus of way more spare parts for the 4.7. cheap cheap

Just won an auction in Japan for a clutch pedal assembly and manual spec brake pedal. Stoked

It'll fit. probably

The engine is a nothing flash 4.7l V8. making a reasonably flash for an mx5 310hp and 400 something nm filthy, but not an ugly motor which is nice. i plan to keep the automatic and manualise it. the trans computer should be able to to be programmed to behave like a sequential manual trans and ill make a big gear chopping stick. and the goal for this car is to be as fun as possible for as cheap as possible. it wont be a competitive race car. but it will be a stupid amount of fun

Where do i start. A while ago my brother started building an mx5 for his girlfriend and ended up with a fairly straight, but de registered rolling body, offered it to me for free and i was keen for a future track car project. I also happen to have a job which involved crashing cars, and thanks to a certain american standard roadside barriers must meet, we crash a lot of Dodge Rams. with plenty of v8 engines kicking around i hatched a plan and proceeded to talk about it for at least a year without actually doing anything about it. then the engine blew up on the corona, so while i wait to save up money to build that engine properly, i thought id make a start on this one, which by all accounts should be nearly free, with the only big ticket items needed being a roll cage, a diff swap and a driveshaft. So last weekend i dragged the mx5 into work, where i have all the tools i need to build a race car. and over the week started the efforts to remove the engine. Now that sounds easy, but boy was this truck fucked up. while the engine faired very well with the only damage being an engine mount ripped out (block still fine) and the starter motor wanged in (i have alot of spares). the chassis was bent at near 90 degrees around the engine, i also didn't really want to remove the trans. i started with a 9" angle grinder and removed as much fucked body and frame as possible. i then undid the remaining mounts and then promptly discovered this engine doesn't have lifting points? strapped it around some dubious strong points and tried to lift it out with the forklift. it rapidly became clear that the turbo fucked chassis was going to make it impossible to get out. so packed up, went back to work and had a think over the next few days. that brings us to today, what i had decided to do was cut the chassis in half just behind the trans and lift the truck off. so out came the 9" grinder again and i began by cutting access to the rails around the fucked body, and then trying to cut the rails with the grinder. sketchy at best. so thought fuck it, step it up a notch eh? though this was actually much safer. Gas axed the rails and out she came!

the exhaust ive got on my cs80 engine is just straight pipe with a BMW f800GS muffler that i saved from the scrap bin years ago. i doubt it does much wonders for power but i was going for quiet so we could use it at local parks. that said, i still get angry old cunts coming over to have a whinge so perhaps a screaming expansion pipe is what i need!

i put the 80cc version of this 3 speed motor on a go kart as super kid friendly being 3 spd auto while still being awesomely quick once you wind it out through the gears. found it hard to find info, but everything said the automatic system was a really well designed and bulletproof system.

very good info. certainly keen on knock detection. ive got a knock sensor here that i planning on making some sort of DIY audio knock setup with. just need to look into what parts itll need

tuning i want to do myself. fucking it up is a concern and did make me wonder if i should buy stronger parts just for insurance on that front, but am interested to hear what you guys think. not a 100% tuning noob, but not a pro either. i also dont have a dyno in my shed KPR. lucky bastard.

assuming, and your not the first person to suggest i wont really need forged pistons, i dont buy them. will standard type piston rings be up to the task, once gaped properly, or do i need to look around for something specific?

you can get forged pistons, though would need 1mm over bore. and are spendy. can get an MLS gasket from the same outfit in america, kinda spendy, but not all that much more if your buying a gasket anyway. ill probably be buying there full gasket kit anyway as it looks the most complete and well priced. they also do flash bearings with some kind of special heat treatment. probably not needed by the sounds. forged rods also availible, but since they are rated to 200hp per rod, i aleady assumed this was not required. id be pretty happy with 200hp across the whole motor! definatly going to be gapping rings for boost, as this is 100% of the reason its only ever ran super low boost 2-3psi. its been over heated a few times, never super super hot. but ill want to get the head checked out and hardness tested as first port of call.

ahh we dont have ones like that sorry!. must be an earlier model. ours look like this

what does it look like? and are the programable to other cars? we crash tiidas at work and might have something you can use. pretty sure ive got one of the keyless oval type ones

Hi hopefully more experienced people than me. i have a few questions, mainly about what extent i need to go to, around my up coming engine build for the corona. engine is currently a disassembled 18rgeu which had a failed head gasket. Now i know how to build an engine, have done a couple in the past and even have some formal engine building training. but what i dont know much about is building an engine to make more power than it came from the factory. short story is its an old 18rgeu with a supercharger strapped to it. will be running about 8psi, and run by a megasquirt stand alone ecu. how far do i need to take things? do i need forged pistons? do i need fancy bearings, do i need flash piston rings, do i need a MLS head gasket (im pretty keen to use one anyway) is there anything else i should be doing or need to look for, in order to produce a reliable engine. i don't much care about making the most power i can. but reliability is 100% priority, while still being supercharged. id usually just do internet research on this, but theres a million conflicting articles and most originate from someone selling something.

The ball joint on that side didn't have a split pin either, so I'm picking its a genuine aliexpress part (which terrifyingly is available) Went back to the dog park today, which I was coming home from when this happened, the skid mark is about 75m long and shows a struggle in the steering as I wrestled it to the side. I don't remember any of it! Shit happens fast.

cars back on all four wheels now. found lower ball joints locally no problem, but was concerned about the stress the upper may have seen, when it was all that was holding a wheel dragging at 90* along the road. so have got some of those inbound from Australia for piece of mind. i did take it slowly around the block and had a bit of a frightening light bulb moment, i had initially been planning on getting the car a wheel alignment because it didn't return to center all that well when turning. but with the new lower ball joints is now spins right back to center quick as can be. guess we know what the real problem was now, never did feel any play when i looked quickly when swapping wheels. oh well live and learn.