BlownCorona

i used a locked dizzy in my first engine, then used a trigger wheel mounted in the case of a dizzy. both times i just locked the dizzy up with lockwire. removing the flyweights gave excellent locking points. just a figure 8 of wire and twist it up giving it heaps of tension. use actual lockwire and youll never have to worry.

it does, and they are super expensive. is the loom portable? could take it somewhere to have that one done? great plugs though

It's a deutsch plug. They are meant to be crimped, can't comment on soldering.

Heard back from L C Engineering and they piston kit is indeed availible, so I'll be looking to order this in the next day or so. Hopeing I can get it shipped to the American division of my work, and get it drug muled back under the cover of darkness! Cheers for the help this far. I'm sure that's not the end of my problems!

100% understand you can't give a definitive answer,its not even a common engine let alone a common modification to it. I'm super grateful for any pointers and prior experience ect.

Perfect, this is exactly what I was going to do. Have a good quality donut type sensor and was going to feed it into the laptop microphone. But I've also been wanting a small headphone amp for my desk at work so perhaps a chance to double down on some investment.

They are availible for manufacture. And given I'm standing right next to a cnc mill, I could probably make one myself. But unsure on their performance with sealant on one side and a std gasket on the other?

its a different conversation and potentially worth its own thread? but is there any reliable way to implement decent knock detection without buying high end professional gear?

shit thats a big difference, as in like 75% of my desired boost pressure. i got interested in running their 100 fuel when a colleague said his tuner couldn't get his cammed up blacktop levin to detonate with it. also a tuning shop in timaru did back to back to back test with 98/avgas/npd100 and found the avgas and npd very similar (no lead though) and they were making more power on the sr20det with less boost than on 98, so it definitely lets you get away with more timing. my main concern was availability. but that might not be such a problem anymore, though not all npds are carying 100. however at this point, harder to get fuel trumps grenading a motor.

yup, the crown i have is also factory sc14 with the big bypass valve. works awesome for cruising around but its an ugly and bulky system. could probably be hidden away though. i just saw on the LCEengineering website that the 20r pistons are not currently available. have sent some emails so we'll see. if they arnt available ill have to revisit everything as most of the other piston kits for the 20r i can find look like economy cheapie things which probably will end in tears. initially i was hoping to use 95 octane as 98 is a complete pain in the ass to buy in chch. however NPD are offering a steady supply of 100 octane and seems like there a new station popping up daily. interested in your thoughts on this?

(assuming it stays boosted) its getting intercooled this time around. itll also not be running that much boost. i was keen for 7-8, but would be just as happy with 5-6 in a reliable engine that i wont really have to stress about. its not remotely about power for me. ive had fast cars and i still only drive them at 50kmh. having the blower is 100% about the style the feel and the noise they make. but i also doing want to install it and only make 1psi because itd be technically supercharged. does that make sense? i either want a reliable engine making some boost. or id rather not bother. its still got the clutch on the blower so i could get it up via the ecu to switch on at say 3000RPM or something to mitigate that low RPM problem. however id need to setup a bypass system as i doubt just getting the engine to suck air through an undriven sc is ideal. even though it happily does it? cant be good for fuel economy. for what its worth, and this may change your answer. if these 20R pistons are what i think they are it would be cheaper to build the 8.5 engine, than the 9.2 engine. it would also be bolt together and go with zero machining required. except for perhaps some valve reliefs. the 9.2 engine relies on the assumption of being able to cut the entire circumference out of the 18RG pistons dome and also the cometic head gasket is a 92mm bore vs the current and stock 88.5mm bore so thered be weird dead space in there. a stock gasket is 1.2mm though so most of the deccompression comes from cutting the pistons. turbo does interest me. and so does the thought of being nicer to the rare engine.

Crash testing

If you want one of those drain trays, the dodge rams have them. You know where they are. /please dont break in a steal one, we get enough of that as is. I can grab one off if you want?

Likewise. But I'll just approach it methodically. I think the 20r piston will be the ticket I just need to get my hands on one. Entire quality 20r piston kits can be had out of the states for $150usd

Have also considered moving to a turbo since I have the supercharged crown which is a keeper. How much softer on the engine would that be? If its negligible then I'd rather the blower simply because I think they are much cooler, even if they are way worse haha

Nah with the hemi head I didn't think scooping material from the head would work. Not sure if I'm comfortable with 9.2:1 especially when I was aiming for 8.5:1 but I'll see what I can dig up flat top piston wise. I do have an even higher compression head here that could either make an angry N/A engine or maybe work well with zero deck pistons. And a standard gasket, standard gaskets have been reported trouble free even up to 30psi

I don't think I can deck the pistons any useful amount, they would get too thin real quick. It's a closed deck block so clamping force would probably be OK, but have heard of issues with fluid sealing with copper?

Those 20r pistons might also need valve reliefs and I've no idea how to do that.

10.5:1 with stock stuff. I could get it down to around 9.2:1 with machining the pistons a little. And a 1.5mm cosmetic gasket. The combustion chamber is hemi design. I did think about taking some material out but I have no idea about that side of things. Cooper gasket and o ring block didn't seem a particularly cheap option. Just a pic off the Internet but the same head. As for the piston, I assume I could machine a chamfer on the dome the same angle and depth as the valve relief pretty safely, wouldn't want to take any off the top though especially if building for boost. Piston on the left is what I've got. Another option is 20r pistons, they look to have a very small dome and might be the key. But I'm struggling to reliabley compare them.

Struggling to find a way to keep the compression low, this block has been decked a fair amount. Building a nice N/A motor is an option but I'd really like to keep the supercharger. Any ideas? A really thick mls gasket is close to 500 bucks before shipping...

thats so good, i can only imagine the barries faces when that rolled up. must ask the vintage machinery enthusiast at work if he attended, hed be one of the ones that would have loved it.

Made this baby walker trainer for my daughters upcoming first birthday. Silloette of my corona painted in its actual paint. I never work with wood so super stoked on how this came out. Kmart fishboard skateboard donated its wheels and that's about all I needed to buy. Bonus is it gave me a chance to test out my new to me, Sata 4000b spray gun. Shit it's awsome! Can't wait to paint to crown with it, colossal step up from the supercheap auto guns...

Engine mounts trimmed and sitting in place. Will need that leg bent in to sit against the subframe and probably a brace going rearward too. Too easy!

we bought it from the local speedway supplier shop so i assume those guys wouldnt stock it if it was total snake oil

interesting! what brand? (if there are multiple brands) we used redline to be fair, we never actually ran the engines without water wetter so i guess i cant comment on how good it actually works. lingish post