BlownCorona

you have no idea how much this is true, i dont want another major project, it can get made safe and legal and sent. hoping that air filters dont upset the sound too much, but i suppose they are required though. have to figure out what to buy and what works with the really nice cast trumpets it has

That's great info cheers! There's every possibility that I'll need to do that in the future. It stops petty great for an unboosted system. Front brakes will lockup if you try to, but great pedal feel so you won't do it accidently

Yes, Viva front end with I'm told Victor disk brakes. I'm very new to British stuff though. Has an LJ Torana rear end which is awesomely oversized. The engine looks yuck at the moment but will post some pics once a it's been cleaned up and had some paint thrown around.

threw the seal kit into the carbs and no more leaks and no more lean spitting. (also put new O rings in the soft mount kit) went for a drive around the block and it cruised great but any time you tried to accelerate quickly it would hit the wall hard and sound like a rev limiter. not something you could drive through. clearly a major issue in the carb setup. Luckily i took photos off all the jets and tubes while i was rekitting them. Went inside for a coffee and looked up some suggested specs. found all the jets to be similar enough to the suggested specs that they were probably within tune, except for the venturi chokes, the were 30mm and suggested was around 35mm. Included with the car was a set of 34mm chokes, im not sure why the 30s were swapped in but i doubt it ever drove well. fitted the 34mms and it woke right up! still not perfect, but it runs pretty bloody strong! comes on cam (i heavily suspect its hiding something fun under the cam cover) pretty hard and sounds like the apocalypse at about 5000rpm. wof very soon and then ill have to try get some video. only new photo i have is of the grill i had a play around with painting. quite like it.

New wheel cylinders and the rear brakes are mint. Robbed the headlights out of the mx5 for this, still sealed globes so will order in some semi sealed units at some point. Tail lights and carb kits showed up too, so that should get it 99% over the line.

wow you finally got one. sick they look so crazy with no front grille, like you forgot to take protective shipping wrapping off. any mods planned or keeping it stock?

i may take you up on that offer when it comes time to build one. the boot in the chevron is actually behind the rear seats and the gas tank is where your rear stays go, my rear stays (and seat belts) bolt onto the very rear most lateral bar. and im not too sure whats underneath that. hopefully its a strong area. itll need some investigation.

I'd be real keen on some photos of your setup. The cars not log booked and I'm not too interested in entering anything bigger than sprints.

Continuing through the list of wof things that done work. A new front right indicator bulb has the right hand side indicators working, wired in series maybe? Possibly the stalk switch just needed cycling to get the switch to work. Adjustment on the brake light switch has them working too. The horn stated working out of the blue, I suspect a similar issue to the indicators with some switch cycling magic. Still no tail lights though (have headlights Park/hi/lo) , however since one the the light units is cracked alot, and since they use weird festoon bulbs and since the identical unit is available new, using bayonet standard bulbs for like $40. I'll order up some new tail lights and if they still don't work, trace the wiring back. So apparently its true that this does have a Holden Torana (9"?) diff and brakes, and thankfully I only needed to remove one spring and nudge a pad sideways to get the slave cylinders out. There is fluid right up to the cylinder but zero movement. I can't budge the pistons on either side (should I be able to?) and I doubt they are costly so new items will go back in. I also have it fresh oil this weekend and had a look at the spark plugs, turns out they were mx5 plugs, so treated it to a set of correct plugs. There appears to be a weep still from the sump plug, I thought the lack of copper washer was to blame but put a new one on and still possibly a minor weep. Couldn't see any cracks and it wasn't threaded, perhaps I should have used a fibre washer? Things still to buy for a wof are some new headlights, the ones in it are sealed units and half blown or cracked lenses, hopefully I can get some H4 replacement units. I'll also need two new / good second hand quality harnesses. If anyone has any out of date but good/unused belts kicking around? Track day legal would probably be a must too, which I think is 5 years out of date? Else I'm just gonna end up paying twice. I'm also keen to make a 'track spec' roll bar. The stock unit is bolted on and would be okay for street use, plus works with the roof, but with a helmet and new regulations at ruapuna requiring 50mm head clearance probably won't be allowed. I also probably won't be able to full cage it easily so passengers will be a no go, fine by me. And means I can possibly run a foward running roll bar strut down to the chassis in the passengers foot well. I'll need to speak to someone who knows what they are talking about, but a hot swappable street / track roll bar would be ideal. Id also like to remake the OG roll bar to modern standards and ditch the crush bent tube, even if it is about 5mm thick.

There's a rotary powered on trademe, super cool. Not cheap though! Ever since I did a little work on some formula ford's I though a high revving rotary would be awesome in a FF or lotus 7.

Discussion thread here. Pulled the carbs off last night to check a few things before I order some rebuild kits. The head has been ported so that's pretty cool. Didn't take any pics cause I was enjoying myself and forgot.

Discuss here, Make sure I don't completely dissemble this one so I can actually drive it this summer...

Yeah will start a discussion thread, or feel free to make one and start nagging! Dunno about the difference between screw and normal pd blowers, but I'm reasonably committed to the sc12 since I bought the lotus and I'm now super broke haha.

Short version of the story goes, the guys who sold me the pallet of 18rg parts to help me repair the corona engine also had a Lotus Seven replica also running an 18rg on twin weber 40s. Has been in their barn for the last 14 years, but recently they dug it out. Some fresh fuel and a slight fiddle and it was running again. I heard through the grapevine that he was was looking at selling it, and it had my name ALL over it. So several phone calls and a bit of time passed and a deal was struck. So a car I've always liked but never thought I'd really be able to own was mine, even better it was RG powered. Traikered it to the ferry, drove on, drove off, allegedly a quick fang through Picton and onto another trailer back to chch. From what I can see, the webers will need a rebuild kit thrown at them, an oil leak from the sump plug, probably just a new copper washer, and the wiring for the lights repairing. Then wof time! Included in the deal was a roof, doors than can also zip in half, and a torneou cover which can also zip in half speedster style. I love it so much, even my wife admitted it was really cool, and she's usually indifferent to my cars.

have no proof, but have heard of separate water temp sensors just feeding the ecu doing weird things. back when my 18rg was running on the stock ecu it would do a weird pulseing rev. we decided it was probably something like a weird sensor and it would disappear once the megasquirt when on, which it did.

Serious question. It's a 95 hilux that sometimes takes a couple of seconds to fire, why even waste your time thinking about it?

Loaded up ready to go get all the previous owners horrific excuses for repairs, actually repaired.

I'm actually planning on putting my Motec m400 in and perhaps moving to e throttle for simple iac. But I'm far more keen to have the blower switched on just off cruise. And run a vaccum valve for bypass. Simple is better and usually looks better too.

vacuum leak on that cylinder?

That's a shame, I've not looked into the idea any further.

youve probably already sorted it. but i just picked up our one from dads so i can sort the head on the corona, welcome to use it.

my S4 had those and i was seriously considering that as an option. for those that dont know, i believe hes talking about the 710N valve on audis and vws. essentially a vacuum/boost operated valve. its quite likely the option ill take i think. it would be a really clean way of allowing the air around the blower. i put really expensive 034Motorsport billet ones on the S4 and i regret not swapping them out for standard before selling!

holy shit thats expensive what am i, rich? but unfortunately that wont work in my setup, my throttlebody is before the blower, so i need a path around the blower, not something that bleeds off its pressure. essentially an electric valve. i can actually run the engine with the blower turned off and the engine will suck its air throught the blower spinning the lobes. but i dont know how back for fuel economy that kind of intake restriction would be. guessing pretty significant

oh thats not a decision based on anything other than what id like to own and the different obnoxious noises they can make which are a massive guilty pleasure lol. good fuel and knock detection are definitely happening.

fair enough. im gonna go with the 20R piston kit though. off the shelf parts that dont cost the moon that land me right where i want to be for not too much money seems like the good option, they are an aftermarket kit from a company in the states that specalises in building performance 20/22Rs and states the kits are suitable for mild boost. my only real question now is whether i keep the supercharger setup, and run a bypass so i can keep load off the engine at low RPM. as i do wonder if thats what contributed to blowing the first headgasket? though i suspect it was just and engine rebuilt poorly and/or neglected as i know it was sitting in a feild for upwards of 5 years. or do i convert to a turbo setup. if i did go turbo id want it to look very retro style, with an old looking (not nessesarly, or idealy acually old though), a bit old finned HKS external wastegate ect. hopefully that kind of paints the picture of the style setup id be interested in. ultimately its the same core engine and i can decide later on, i think im leaning towards keeping it supercharged. but having a supercharged car, a turbo car and v8 car wouldnt be the worst thing in the world