BlownCorona

i got quite alot of indication. but shit does it look good in the sun

currently watching this much longer video about the same trick/more info. he did say on flatter areas hed stick with the razor. he does a good job about making me not feel so shit about getting runs though, "if you dont get a run every now and then, your not trying hard enough or your not putting it on wet enough"

i might give this trick a nudge. seems to be pretty awesome at protecting the good bits around the run i think ill give it a go on a more inconspicuous spot first. but looks like a great trick, and i watched a lot of this guys vids to (fail) at learning good techniques

The metallic went down better than I could have imagined, just the clear went to shit. It's prety bad, the photos don't show it up that much/have only photographed good angles, but you can look through the runs and see the panels are dead straight so that's awesome. And I'm really hoping that with yet some more sanding it really will look as good as hoped it will. I think it will. I'm also pleased with how the bronze works with the blue interior. And am undecided on wheel centre colour. Initially I was going to paint them r32 gtr gun metal grey, as a mate painted his r34 rims this bronze on my recommendation and the colour combo looks great. But open to suggestions. Really need to clean all the sanding dust of them as is and see what I think.

I do have two 2400w industrial fan heaters, if I moved these around and pointed them directly at panel by panel, would this be a good idea? Have never heard about the heat being a requirement before! The colour is bmw sepang bronze (a32) and I absolutely adore it. I came across the colour when I wanted to paint rims for my old audi s4 the work/rays matte bronze and have always wanted to paint a whole car.

That's an excellent idea, will do

Yup even assuming that it came out perfect I was looking to leave it for a couple weeks before even reassembling it. So I'm not too worried at this point. Any tricks to tell when the run has gone hard on the inside? Or just leave it an excessive amount of time.

I don't 100% know what you mean by dry areas, but I don't think if got that. Just went too heavy/slow/close ect. I am pretty confident I can smooth it off, hopefully without needing to put more clear on but not against that either. Only problem is I don't have the sandpaper, so might be an after lockdown job which sucks but ohwell

Painted the crown a couple days ago. The basecoat went down absolutely perfectly. But when it came to spraying the clear every panel that wasn't horizontal slowly turned to shit. Most likly it was technique though I've not had this happen before, who knows. Anyway fairly sizable sags and runs all over it. Looking for suggestions on how to cut back the runs properly, there's plenty of info online but it ranges from, just rub it with wet 2000gr and it'll go away to, it's fucked needs a complete respray and if I try rub them out it'll cut into the colour. Any input from people with experience?

The clears a bit of a disaster really and reasonably gutted, so many things I'd have done differently in hindsight. But it's done. Drove it into the sun yesterday and it's not all bad news.

pulled the pin yesterday and painted the exterior. the basecoat went down beautifully. but i really made a hash of the clearcoat. quite alot of sags, and in hindsight, the lighting in the garage was shit so i couldnt see them forming and i think i was holding the gun too close. really took the fun out of it, however all it means is a bunch more colour sanding which ill tackle in a while once its gone nice and hard. on the plus side, the thing looks dead straight, really happy with the sanding job. have un masked it, which was a tour of all my fuckups, but ultimately itll come up awesome. the colour is amazing and i cant wait to see it in the sun.

Finished sanding the primer to 600gr, which brings this era of my life to a close. I don't really remember a time I wasn't sanding the crown, but I now have a very large appreciation to how many compound curves and just how massive it is. Celebrating with a double whiskey and now looking at the forecast to pick a suitable day to spray this once and for all! Cheers

did 30,000kms in a year in a z30. the seats are great. photoshops look primo. following with great interest, that hoonigan feature of a similar build proves itll be alot of fun

getting a little off topic. but i *think* this is the same as the what we have. You can see a standard looking output shaft and seal, and a bunch of meat which may get cut off, depending on if its structural. certainly should be able to slim it up a little. but its a race car and room can be made for anything.

once this virus stuff is lifted and im back at wok (or might be able to get it from said engineer) ill post the exploded diagrams he had got ahold of. they should be the same length, just a little weird looking sans transfer case because all the internal shafts ect were the same parts.

we picked up a navara (?) i thnk it was 6spd trans for the hemi powered merc sl600 racecar were building at work for 5/10ths of fuck all. its the same as a CD009 but the ratios are a bit messed up, essentially we should be operating it as a 5spd because 1st will be useless. i haven't looked too closely at it, but a pretty senior engineer was driving the decision. its a 4wd gearbox, but he discovered that the transfer case is pluged into the normal cd009 output shaft. so we pull the transfer case off and plug in the driveshaft and good to go. itll look a bit weird because the tail housing is meant to have a transfer case plugged into it. but function+price > looks for a transmission. it was something like $200 from memory weve yet to see if we can remedy the gear rations, but with the correct diff ratios it should be mint as a 5spd.

lathe some up? soak up some excess covid lockdown time

do you mean soarer seats to allow access? should be really easy to get your hands on, plus they are pretty comfy seats, but they may not suit the cars style? mk4 supra seats could be an option too. the rear seats in a mk4 are black leather too and awesome deep buckets.

Doors back on. Feels great to be refitting parts. Alignment is pretty good, but will spend more time on this once the seals and rubber bump stops go back on.

Colour went down on the backs of the doors and all the shuts today.

that mondo sized trutest ebike is the first ive seen thats made me think, hmm i wouldnt mind an ebike like that.

can you fit a 2nd 'fuel cap' but have this be a fuel gauge? you can get 100% mechanical float gauges that bolt to the top of a tank. it would also add a degree of symmetry to the tank if done well. which we all know you can handle

have you seen KPRs 4ages? his unicorns have defiantly seen some shit...

More mind numbing progress. Shell, gaurds, hood and deck lid are done (excluding the ten thousand tiny areas that need some close finer attention) Doors in primer today. Still to touch the bumpers, sure am glad I left the most difficult for last Loosely hoping to be blasting some colour in 2 weekends from now.

is the radiator and water direction plumbed correctly? as in hot water going into the bottom and cold coming out the top? cause it looks like its backwards compared to my engines. thermostat housing on all my engines goes to the top of the rad, and the waterpump outlet, goes to the bottom. edit, i see its been mentioned a few times, but no answer on this one? quick google of an sc400 and it seems to be plumbed correct. adding the blower to the system hasnt acceidentally reversed the water pump pully or perhaps you've changed the crank pulley to effect boost and upset the speed of the pump?