BlownCorona

funny you say that - was heading here to give that exact piece if info/clue thought id cracked the case at lunch today when i checked and the signal wire wasn't connected. (i didn't remove the starter, just pushed it out of the way so it must have gotten dislodged) but nope. still exactly the same. took a multi meter to the sense wire and its not getting 12v when trying to start.

Appears I have the correct pins jumped, good to know about the reverse lights in above pic. Starting to consider something else is wrong or has been unplugged/bumped during the swap.

have discovered that "neutral start switch" is the big electrical box on the side of the trans. that the shifter runs through, im pretty certain i have the switch bypassed. as per usual my ill have to check the 7.5a fuse isnt blown, wish i could find the fuse box lid! still keen on input. cheers

also - ignore that last diagram, that apears to be just a bare bones wireup of an ra28

ive had it hooked up to a grunty (will start 5.7 hemi dodge ram with no battery fitted) jump starter. but i dont even hear the starter relay click when i turn the key. are you sure the acc circuit gets power when the key is turned to start? ive even left the auto shifter pluged in, perhaps just that 7.5a fuse has blown. ill double check the wiring around the shifter though

Hello OS collective, I once again have underestimated something. i got my modified driveshaft back today, and as per usual, only yesterday decided id see if the engine would want to start after the manual swap. inevitably, it did not, No problem i thought, probably just needs the ecu to be told its in park, as none of the gear position lights had lit up. Today i went over the auto trans with a multi meter and found what pins were connected when in park. jammed some paperclips in the corresponding plugs and had "P" show up on the dash. still no cranking. doesnt sound like the fuel pump primes, but i cant remember if i could hear this before or not. i dont hear the starter relay click, but the radio ect does turn off when i turn the key to start. Does anyone know what needs to be done to get a 1ggze to start after the auto has been removed? cheers!

or your type R has honda minivan brakes.....

MS Paint edit of what i mean

this may have been mentioned, or already your plan. but if that rear wheel works fine where it is and clears everything, why not just trim the rear of the arch out and weld it back on and inch or so further in to 'center' the wheel in the wheel arch? youd end up with a bit of a shorter wheel arch but i rekon it would look awesome, and be nice and symmetrical

Sorry nothing like that unfortunately. I'd probably still be keen on the door cards and just glue up the vinyl if it's not too hosed, my door cars are just shitty straight black poor quality vinyl. I was gonna have some new ones made too but it's wayyyy down the list

Big fan of the wheels. your progress is getting me so amped to get back into my car after the crown is finished. let me know if you end up swapping out the door cards, id be keen on your ones with the speaker holes cut if you get rid of them

10 straight hours with my father and myself saw the auto ditched and the manual fully bolted into its new permanent home. The swap was very easy mostly due to me thinking about all the parts I may need and pre buying. This even included a new rear man seal because I figured now would be a good chance, looked like it was weeping a little too! The win of the day way the auto trans cross member being very usable for the manual, all that was required was mount holes drilled 30mm further up the chassis. Win! Other wins include the shifter poking through dead center of the centre console hole, and all the bolts being fairly straight forward to reach once the gearbox was unbolted and allowed to drop down at the rear. Good times ahead, with a driveshaft to be sussed and the rest of the clutch parts fitted, handbrake also needs a fitting and probably some electrical wrangling of the AT ecu.

Crown is now parked at work. For perhaps the 2nd time, I saw it in the sun, mostly due to it being parked in a permanently shady spot at home. Love the color so much and am really looking forward to cutting out the orange peel and buffing it up real nice. Also finally bolted thr G-W Bellhousing that came with the car to my w55 I've had stashed away for a while, this is primarily the reason I even bought the car, the thought of a stick shift blown widebody Toyota was too good to go past. Planning on swapping the boxes over next weekend and then I'll be able to sort out the driveshaft, clutch and handbrake stuff during lunch brakes.

Chucked together a new parcel tray since the original once was crumbling into dust due to previous owner thinking the rear windscreen glue was optional. Real please with how it came out. I'm done with everything I want to do before the manual swap, so I'll quite likley take it into work next week where it will live while the new trans goes in. Nearly done (famous last words)

Picked up some good quality window tint from @Archetype. As expected I wasn't able to do a good job of the rear screen and I'm happy to pay someone to do that later on, but the sides went flawlessly and I'm so pleased I opted to tint the car. Should help heaps with it being an oven in summer. The car is all but complete and back together, things lefts are to cut back the orange peel and buff it aswell as fit the manual trans. l

thats pretty cool! are they reliable and can you still buy them? super interested in acquiring one, over the planned diy knock ears.

you should definitely not mount the ECU on the engine. it will fucking hate the vibrations

youre dead right, read asymmetrical and thought directional. as you were.

Flip them side to side though? Like take the left tire and put it on the right hand rim?

I also drive past that end every day. Happy to play MI6

How much of a sleeper is it?

that starlet must have gone hard!

ah the lost footage of me applying my clear coat the first time round

was hoping to get a bit of sun so i could take a photo for this thread. but redid the paint job, this time not being an idiot about things, and aside from some clear coat orange peel which is very fixable. its come out bloody good. i had also repainted the centers of the epsilons satin gunmetal grey which im also very pleased with. looking forward to seeing it in some sun to let that metallic shine!

All advice always welcome. And plenty of great tips in there! I'll sus out my led light to be on hand. Watched a few vids and some pros had sweet gun mounted led lighting.