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vivaspeed

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Everything posted by vivaspeed

  1. Discuss here -> //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33890-vivaspeeds-no2-viva-discussion/ Well, seeing how owning multiple of the same type of car seems acceptable around here, I thought I'd start a project thread on my latest acquisition. I bought this 1967 Vauxhall Viva HB SL90 a few weeks back now but due to other things going on this has been the first weekend I've been able to work on it, take photos etc. Did a few little jobs today so it can go for a WOF check, but mostly just played around with it. The SL90 is the higher spec HB Viva, so has more plush vinyl seats, wood grain veener on the dash, front discs as standard (as opposed to drums) and a few other minor improvements. It's got an 1159cc motor, with a slightly-better-than-stock cam and a Weber 28/36 DCD carb. When new, 45 years ago it was meant to produce 69 BHP. Interior is largely complete, but a bit tatty in most places, looks nice from far, but far from nice. Will get some attention in the future. Nice wood grain veneer and bus sized wheel. Even has an orginal AM radio - "His Master's Voice" with a single centre speaker. Works too... The wheels that came on it aren't right - they're 4x100mm not 4x4" (101.6mm) so they can go on a Corolla we own instead. I rummaged through the parts store of bits I've hoarded for Vivas over the last 10 years and there is a reasonable set of 13x6" Ward alloys. Had a play with them for fit and seem to fill out nicely. Will get some 185/60/13 rubber on them maybe this week. Then applied generous helpings of Autosol and elbow grease Also in the parts bin I've got a front sway bar, some rear low springs (need to get fronts made), a GT40 coil, and some gauges (oil,tacho, etc) which will get fitted over time. Plans are to get a WOF on it, swap wheels over, then fit some of the other bits. I got a 1256cc motor with it as well, so one day might build a fresh engine but the 1159 goes okay for now. Here it is with its stable mate...
  2. I had a lockup out at Gracefield, was a reasonable place. Depends how spendy you are and proximity to your home etc. http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm Have put it up on here before and Mr Borgweiser knows it. The owner is a reasonable sort as well. Have a range of units from v.small to enormous but may not have right size for your needs. See this thread http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=31993 Sell house and buy industrial unit to live in? (could also solve earlier housekeeping issue) Edit: like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/property/commercial-property/for-sale/auction-497665625.htm
  3. I have one of these in the race car and it is generally okay when driving, but a bit shit if you want to clear the window first time round - really needs some heating in it. Use towel / then fan. There were some on the tard a few years ago that were a low profile heated blower that could sit on dash, or get a 12V travel hair dryer and strip the guts from it.
  4. Oooh I may just have a Viva with a WoF by then must put door back on Celica so it can go outside and Viva can get shed time for repairs. (shit is like The Castle round here at the mo, "could you move the Camira, I need to get the Torana out so I can get to the Commodore...") Strathmore, seriously, that is like the furthest most point from my abode Variety is good though. Can I propose a Petone-ish / J'ville / more central location for a later month? No particular venues pop into my mind at present .
  5. Was hoping I might have the time (and a WoF'd old car) to come to this but may have to pass Anyone want to write my essay on knowledge management instead so I can attend?
  6. Yeah have already been in contact with Mark, he can assist with parts procurement Also he did some workshop consultation on my behalf and confirmed what KK said.
  7. Unlikely you've still got one decades later? Trial and error repairs are so much easier when someone else is paying for parts will investigate further to confirm functioning of said valve.
  8. Green and black valve on drivers side seems familiar from today's rummaging - will investigate further. Are they generic that can be bought somewhere or do I have to part life savings with Mr Toyota for genuine parts? Wouldn't fancy my luck with pick-a-part/wreckers for that kind of thing. Thank you Encyclopaedia K-Trips
  9. Has got the slide type carb, like a vertical SU/Stromberg thing. Oh, it runs fine all the rest of the time, good response under load (well as good as a 2E does!), just hot idle is wrong.
  10. A little advice from knowledgeable sorts (or any others with unqualified opinions) please. The GFs EE90 Corolla has developed a terrible hot idle problem and won't idle at all when hot (revs just drop to 300-400 and it splutters to death) - has been getting slowly worse for a while but because it didn't affect me every day I opted not to look at it until now. I think it's an air valve/idle throttle problem and when you put foot on accelerator it is like it's being suctioned closed and offers heaps of resistance, although once throttle is open its back into life (if you catch it before it stalls). Immediate thought was to check idle screw but that seems okay. From my limited knowledge of it, and some Haynes manuals for other Toyota cars of mine, it appears to have some sort of hot idle control circuit comprising 23454 miles of vacuum line, tees, one way valves and some temperature type valves on various parts of the engine. Messed around with it today and when I clamped some lines it stalled, when I removed others it ran better. The throttle does not appear to be sitting on any idle adjust screws, and is being held in position (open or closed) by the various diaphragm actuators. Have spent ages on the interwebs trying to find fuel/vacuum system diagrams but to no avail - it's like people don't care much for the old 2E (and I'm not a member of Corolla/Starlet/Tercel forums). Might have to make a trip to the public library for some more info. Have made a temporary fix for now by removing a vacuum line off one of the throttle diaphragms which allows it to idle about 1,200 rpm but I'm not happy about it being not right. Anyone got access to any Factory Service Manuals for a EE90/2E, or have gone through this before? Would I be right in thinking one of the temperature vacuum valve things (on head / with line in and out) may have died causing incorrect vacuum to a diaphragm when its hot? I guess just test the vacuum valves for open/closed in both engine cold and hot states? Can I rip all the vacuum crap off and just have normal carb-ness with a throttle link and auto choke?
  11. CBF trawling through lots of search results, so... I have bought another Viva 2 door which I received on the weekend and the front seats have a pivot arrangement at the front and just lift up to gain access to the rear (like a Mini IIRC). There is no clamp/restraint on the back so they just sit there on some plates. The seat has a release lever on the side and a clasp thing underneath, but there is nowhere for it to clasp onto (some had a small bar under the seat). No holes in the carpet, no holes in the floorpan, nothing that gives any hint it should hold on or that there was ever a bar there. Seems odd, seats are original (or original type with front pivot). WOF book suggest provided the original mountings are no broken it should be okay for WOF, but seems a bit too dodgy for me (car has had WOF in this state before). Opinions/Experiences?? I can install a small bar using 8-10mm rod under the seat so it has something to clasp onto and be 1,000x more robust, but then that would consitute a modification? Would anyone even notice?
  12. Alex, I'll sell you a set of 13x6" alloys so you can stay legit with your cert at WOF time, then just roll steelies for the rest of the time I'll wave farewell to my old steels if you sell them served me well but have had a hard life...
  13. I vote 1UZ, they fit well apart from sump location, example below... Had a reasonable tunnel chop though.
  14. Sika (I think) made a product called Carbond which was okay and reasonably easy to get hold of. Used it on a few projects and turned out okay.
  15. Tuning pages scanned, from both 1st and 2nd editions of Blydenstein tuning book - will PM you also for emailing address. Any other interest PM me and I'll include a copy for you too...
  16. I may make a re-appearance. Haven't been to one since January. Oldschool-ish car has had radiator failure since about then so might just be a daily I arrive in. Future meet in Petone is super convenient to my place of work
  17. You need this... http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/other/auction-484311250.htm Will scan and send tuning pages at my leisure.
  18. Thanks guys, gives me something to go on with. Offpeak Automotive have a facebook page which says they do late night WoFs. Will try there if I need it before the weekend.
  19. Anyone know of a testing station or workshop that does late night WoFs? i.e. after 5 - 6pm. Might need a WoF before the weekend (on car trailer for up-country trip) and can't do a day trip to WoF due to extreme busy-ness, also logistics of having 5.5m trailer on car when parking at work. I know in Auckland there used to be a testing station that stayed open until 7/7.30 on a Thursday night - that was awesome.
  20. Thanks but I really need 1.5hp+, yes your one is a 1hp. haha hadn't noticed that but I think the cat was pouncing on something (grey blur under LF paw) he doesn't make a mess on the floor.
  21. Well as a completely unexpected event on the weekend, I managed to obtain a rather large piece of scrap metal, which once went by the name of a Colchester Bantam 2000. I know some people like lathes / tools / workshop stuff so decided to start a (re)build thread. Went with a mate to buy some Land Rover diffs and the guy selling the diffs had a fire damaged Colchester lathe in the corner of his shed - some quick inspection and discussion and we had a deal for the mighty sum of one Ernest Rutherford. These were made from the 1980s through to the late 90s from what I've read and they are still made as a Harrison M250. Although the lathe itself hadn't been on fire, the fire had melted the plastic knobs, some guards and a few other bits, but most of the damage came from the water/extinguishers, and the fact it had been stripped down and left sitting for a few years. It's not complete, the motor is gone (plus is likely to have been 3-phase), the tool post is missing and I have slight concerns about the state of the cross slide. I inspected the headstock, got it turning and checked all the gear selectors, as well as re-assembing the chuck to see if it was all okay. That part should be good. Sprayed heaps of CRC onto the cross slide and tail stock so will leave for a while to soak in. Some gears are missing from the screw cut drive/autofeed so I don't think I'll bother with that. Will save the high cost bits (motor, refurb of stand, tool post etc) until the end when I know that the core bits are not too stuffed - corrosion is very light surface rust and cleans up with some oil and a scotch pad. It will be a reasonable project (to join my other incomplete projects) but if all else fails I should get my money back on TM or from the scrappy (it weighs about 400-500kg). If it cleans up okay and I can get a cheap 1.5hp motor and some other bits as required I might have a basic lathe for under $500. Some pics - Unloading into my garage, weighed heaps (manual later revealed ~500kgs) - engine crane was only just big enough to get it off the trailer. And this is what a real one looks like...
  22. You can probably buy new too from somewhere like Beattie driveshafts if you feel spendy.
  23. Awesome that someone from oldschool bought this. I was watching and very ready to buy but I already have enough Vivas and insufficient garage There are things that can be done with the 1256 and using the 1159 engine heads, raise compression etc. There used to be a common conversion to put a 28/36DCD on them (or a DGAV type thing off a Ford), also the over the rocker cover DCOE setup. I have some books by Coburn and Blydenstein about tuning these engines and apparently with some pissing around with heads and cam you can get an extra 10 bhp out of them - that's like 25% more!! Can scan and email relevant pages? Datsun A12/A15 was also transplanted into them with relative ease.
  24. That was owned (may still be owned) by a guy Murray - top bloke. The 2.3 in it originated from me about 5 years ago when I wanted cash to buy a house - has got Chev 307 pistons, high comp, angry cam, rare CF electronic ignition and started life on injection but he converted back to carbs. Loads of torque from zero RPM. Had a W50 Toyota box behind it. The white 2 door wasn't my car originally, but was very tempted to buy it from him for the engine and general awesomeness. I have a rule though against buying back stuff I've previously sold
  25. I had a place in Gracefield - good facility but a bit run down in places. originally had about 60 sqm then got a bigger place 85 sqm had water, shared toilet and power/lighting. http://www.gpi.co.nz/html/Storage.htm Some others on here also have used / use it.
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