Adoom

I'll be getting it from Shred in Petone. They buy it by the drum. But because I'd use SFA I would only get 5 litres at a time.

Thanks, So, do I need to cert the extra fuel system before going for a WOF? I'm thinking yes.... Or should I just try get a WOF and see what they say?

I don't think it's really a power adder, since it's perfectly fine to use E85 as my primary fuel, but it's damn expensive. Let's see what Clint says.

While playing around with Water injection on the dyno, we discovered that injecting straight E85 through the W/I system at high boost allowed us to add timing and pull back 'normal' fuel giving a ~10% power increase on the same boost while using hardly any expensive E85. Due to the original W/I system being too unreliable and the jet blocking, I have replaced it with an E85 fuel system(separate to the normal fuel system). It has its own tank, pump, pipes, filter, regulator and injector all mounted under the bonnet. I mostly just use the car for clubsport events and keep it road legal for convenience and testing. I could not find anything that seemed to cover this in the LVVTA docs. Do I need to cert this?(The car is already certed for all modifications prior to this)

As said earlier, those gay rubber cups are epic high spring rate. You just need some good shocks and you won't need to slow down for corners anymore. The dash is just custom wood with vinyl wrapped around it. I think the sections were held together with aluminium tabs, and the self tappers you can see. The 510 was my older Bro's. He sold it about 10 years ago, those photos are pretty old.

I have mine on Aux 7, which can only do pwm up to 300Hz, which would explain your speedo issue. I do happen to have Aux 2 free(which is not limited to 300Hz), which I did not realise earlier, as it was wired to my old idle control valve and the wire is cut short.... But I should be able to at least move the needle a tiny bit if my problem was the same as yours was.

I think I can use this http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=KC5435&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=965#11 to correct the speedo when both the speedo and the link and connected to the speed sensor!

I originally posted some of this on Toyspeed. But maybe someone on here can help. Basically, I have a KP starlet. The drivetrain is all sorts of toyota/nissan frankenstein. The original speedo is mechanical and it reads 20% too fast. Recently I got a Link G4. I'd like to use a gearbox speed sensor and connect it to the Link so I can log my speed(mainly for track days). I got a speed sensor from an S14, it fits in my S12(CA18ET) gearbox. I have wired the speed sensor to digital-in #4 on the link and worked out the calibration. So the Link knows how fast I am going. BUT, the car is road legal. I have to have a working speedo! I can't use the mechanical one and the speed sensor at the same time. So now I have a Nissan speedo(this one happens to be from an N15 pulsar). This is where my problems start. I can wire the speedo directly to the speed sensor and it works, but the speedo reads about double the actual speed. Meanwhile, the Link is also still wired to the speed sensor, and showing the correct speed. I should be able to take the signal wire from the speedo and connect it to Auxiliary output #7 on the link. Then the link can drive the speedo. The Link gives me lots of calibration options in this configuration. But I cannot get the speedo to do anything. Here is how it went down: Okay, so now I have a nissan speedo. (I initially had a toyota speedo) I wired the speed sensor directly to the speedo. One wire to ground and the other to the signal terminal on the speedo. Then connected the positive and ground terminals on the speedo. I used the drill to turn the speed sensor. Using the drill, I could get the speedo needle to sweep from 0-180kmh. (I tried the same thing on the Toyota speedo, nothing happened.) Okay, so I moved it to the car. (It's on axle stands with no wheels on the back.) Speed sensor is in gearbox. Speedo connected to power and ground. Speed sensor is connected to ground and to the signal terminal on on the speedo. Start car and put it in 2nd gear. Speedo goes up to 30kmh when idling. Seems too fast. Rev engine, speedo goes up and down as expected. Connect the digital-in wire on the Link to the signal wire from the sensor(the speedo is still attached). Speedo says 30kmh. Link says 1654kmh..... Forgot to calibrate the digital input(number of pulses per 100m). NEK MINIT! I worked out it is about 1018 pulses per 100m. Now the speedo reads 30kmh, the link reads 14kmh(which is about right). Rev engine, speedo goes up, Link speed reading goes up. Put gearbox in 5th, rev to 3000rpm. Link reads 100kmh(which is about right). Speedo goes well past 180kmh. Connect Speedo signal wire to Link Aux 7(set to speedo out). It is set to "sweep" the needle to 200Hz on key on. This doesn't happen. Engine running at idle. 2nd gear. Link reads 14kmh. Speedo reads 0kmh. Aux 7 can only produce a PWM signal up to 300Hz. What is the difference between the signal from the speed sensor and the pwm signal from Aux 7? I don't have anything as fancy as an oscilloscope(or know how to use one) to look at the two signals. Would the speed sensor signal be analog? If anyone can answer this, is there a circuit I can use that will convert the pwm output from the link into the same kind of signal from the speed sensor? This would be the preferred solution. If there are 1018 pulses per 100m. Then does that make it 2.8Hz per kmh? If I can only produce 300Hz, doesn't that mean the Link can only make the speedo go up to 107kmh? It works if I have the link and the speedo both attached to the speed sensor. But, the speedo reads WAAAAAAAY too fast. WOF guy won't like this. Is there a circuit I can use that will manipulate the signal from the speed sensor to the speedo that will reduce it? I drew some AWESOME diagrams of the two configurations.

As requested, I looked BACK IN TIME!!!!! And found some old pictures. Kinda really hard to see it there... It's basically a copy of the bracket on the left. Simple as! I think I also drilled a new inner pivot for the radius arm rod thing in the sub frame. So it gave it a bunch of camber which I could fine turn with the adjuster. Here, have a photo bomb. You may or may not be interested. I got it in around 1998..... I think. This was after maybe a year or two. Then... it got a little out of hand. The nephew. He's 14 now!!! Made a sweet dash! MG Metro 4pot brakes. These are "adjusties" for a mini. The long ones go in the back. The back and front ones are the same, you just don't use an extension for the front. Anyone with a lathe could make them for SFA. At that point it had become too big and taken too long. I had just bought my Starlet. It was about 2002-3 and I sold it to a guy in Featherston. AFAIK it never got finished. Sorry for the hijack

I made some camber adjusters years ago on mine. They are REALLY simple. Just a bit of angle, some threaded rod and some nuts.... I might even be able to come up with a photo of them from the FAAAAAAAAAAAAAAR distant past. I also found that all the cool mini stuff was really expensive just because it comes from the UK. It was far cheaper to work it out yourself and have it made locally! But just remove the big nut at the end of the radius arm, then the little bracket comes off with 3 bolts. What you need to do is slot the big hole that the radius arm rod goes through. Slot it up to increase the negative camber. Once you slot it, just put it all back together, don't tighten up the big nut until the car is back on the ground. The weight of the car will push the radius arm rod thing up to the top of your slot. Then tighten it up. Of course you will need to do some maths to work out how many mm for one degree of camber. If you get a wheel alignment, you will probably find that the wheels are pointing in all sorts of directions. They aren't exactly precision built.

Roy valued my modified starlet when it got written off. His value was much higher than all the "normal" valuers. I just gave him a list of the modifications and some examples of what people on tardme were asking for similar starlets.

I think Honda City headlights are the right size for a straight swap, and take halogen bulbs. Should be cheap as from a wrecker.

Holy shit. Did the old owner keep it parked IN THE SEA!?!?

Nothing is missing. I was just wondering if, in theory, you could get away with changing stuff as long as it still fitted with the details on the plate. Of course you would have to change where you got your WOF... For example: My engine details are "1800cc" "NISSAN MOD" "IL4-OHC" "FUEL-INJ TURBO" What would stop me from replacing my CA18ET with a Z18ET?(not that I would actually want to do that swap ).

I don't recall getting anything other than the cert plate both times I got a cert....

When you get a cert, is there additional info that is recorded somewhere in addition to what is on the cert plate? Because some cert plates can be really, um, vague..., lacking in specifics. I just wondered if a more detailed version of what is on the cert plate is recorded elsewhere??

How big was your bottle? I have 3 'D' size bottles(MIG and oxy) rented from BOC in Petone. It's about $15 each per month. It does add up if you are not using it often and you have more than one bottle. Cost me $90 to fill up my Argoshield a month ago As far as I know, you have no choice in Wellington area, you have to rent.

See if you can get a hold of an SU from an MG Metro Turbo. They were blow through. Might be hard to sort out a suitable needle though... Or buy David Vizard's "Modify BL's A series engine". It's essential for someone modifying the A series.

Imagine... in your HEAD?! THIS IS THE INTERNET!!!! *King Leonidas picture* Google images search FTW!

Why do you want that much camber anyway? I'm running 3degrees on the car I take to the track. I hope you are not doing it for looks Adjustable bottom arms will also widen the front track by a fair bit. Rough calculations.... every 1 degree of negative camber pushes each wheel 10mm further out of the guard. Better to have that adjustability at the strut top so your track stays the same. You may have to severely modify the top mounts. Lowering the car/shortening the struts will also have a side effect of negative camber. Use some trigonometry to work that shizzle out au.

Kind of on topic. A trick I use for drilling holes in exhaust gaskets. Sandwich the gasket between two bits of flat bar with the correct sized hole through them and drill the gasket through that. Stops you from mangling the gasket. I had to do this with my exhaust manifold gasket when I replaced the 10mm studs with 12mm ones.

THE STARVIA wasn't pretty enough to be in anyone's photos, so I have to look for it in the background of other car's pictures

That was Dan aka 'flannel's car, he built it nearly 10 years ago, was a seriously nice little car that one. I did a tiny bit of work on the original build of Dan's BPTPWR. Just found out this week that it's on blocks and being sold as parts. LAME. We have spies everywhere.....

mitre 10 is the new boy racer hang out on thursdays it seems and the police just block it off and then spend hours checking wofs etc Really?! I was not aware of this.

I usually take a drum brake and put it on backwards. Then take a big hammer and go bang bang BANG BANG BASH SMASH SMASH AAAARGH AAAAARGH!!!!! Till the axle comes loose. Remember there are FOUR retaining bolts.