77magnum13hundy

this was it before

Update for the month... Have folded the front end out the opposite way to create a lip. Im happy with it but its still needing a tune up before i put some mesh on it. Have been welding around the engine bay and found that old steel doesnt like to be welded. Before chucking decent heat in there i have been putting a small layer on the top to get the pool hot enough to penetrate the old skin. In some places its thin and rusty and loves to blo thru but the majority is ok as long as you flap disc then wire wheel it all shiney like. Still yet to add the new plate for the brake booster. Will try to weld thru the thin stuff form inside the car as oppose to getting it too hot and blowing thru everything.

so, got the front end looking less sad-like. Added some side peices and attempting to converge the lip with the skirts down the side. Final bolting to the front guards is done so they be removed if need be later on. picture quality is what is not up here but you get the idea

Good luck with this shell, bit of rust on the ol girl. BUt if you have the tools and the time then its really only piecing together panels, and sounds like they'd be a few bits around. Will be tough car when back together. Can you get that rusty cylinder sleeve out and replace it? Looks like youve accepted the ultimate restoration challenge.

looking like good progress... keep it up

began to strip the engine bay out, purchased a wirewheel for the grinder and some spray-on paint stripper. Thought it may be a good time to add some welds around the chassis rail for added strength bfore i paint it and drop the engine back in. For the firewall area the wall is pretti weak so I have opted to add in some 3 mill plate. Having done this allows me to level out the slight angle ov which the booster sat, and adding a few more mills of clearance between the master cylinder and the inlet manifold.... my template for the mock up.... also have started the side pieces for the front lip, want them to be removable if the guard comes off so prob rivet them in or something... pics to follow...

Wow this is awesome... Very different and very cool. Love the chassis work. Simply EPIC. This will Haul ass, how many Hp you going to get?

yep think thats gun be mint to lower it get rid of the body roll around the corners, my viva used to do that, nyce car by the way! Tints i say dont tint it, Might look better OG looking.

So moved house and now set up shed, got the engine out and have sorted out the oil leak from the sump drain. Looking at bracing the firewall a little more with a plate to help strengthen the brake booster area. Beofre i put the engine back in i think il paint it this time round. But first the front end needs some thought, ive been slowly working away on it to create a front lip of sorts, just need something on the bottom to finish it. Plan is to mesh that front peice out and put the IC a bit higher and out of the way. Heres the carnage, and a few shots of the new whare.....paku. Chuur So this is the before shot And the aftermaff... And the work area

My toyota curren cracked the top radiator tank, was running around farily hot a week before this << symptoms like yours gradually gets up to hot then quick drive would drop down. Took it as being major, bought water pump, thermo stat etc ready for re-doing the head and stuff. Turns out radiator was blocked guy reckons up tp 95% blockage. Check the radiator first.

Those astron motors are pretty much 2.6 litre slugs, we had a sigma wagon and it was pretty average (140 in third). I Agree on evo 0 motor, take a evo 3 manifold and chop the evo 0 flange off cos the original zero inlet manifold is too bulky.

Hey so if anyone can help me to tune my car in about a months time i'd really like to have my own kit/stuff and learn to tune but in the meantime if anyone can help out that would be so so sweet. I beleive ive got a V3 upgraded to V5 firmware, has a 14 pin output. This is for the Vox 4age, im sorting out. Anyways if someones out west i'm happy to pay what its worth, send me a PM Cheers

just here The pointgap should be around 0.45mm.

stolen from rolla club http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/40 ... oints-gap/

ok so where i had my cold start injector pipe running(4age) off the rail, il put the pressure gauge in there and put the normal fpr in and then at least i can see what psi is running at what rpm. Cheers for the insightfull info...

OK got a link now, so can set up the fuel map. About the Stock regulator, how will it preform when it see's boost? Will it push the diaphram fully open thus closing the return path more(or vice versa whichever way they work), or will it have the opposite affect and will close the diaphram resulting in fuel running back out the return. Do I set it up at just 43psi and have no vaccuum hose connected? Then its just up to setting how long the injectors stay on for fuel wise.

Put a timing light on it. Check the resistance of each spark plug lead, if they all similar they should be fine. Replaced the plugs? Replace coil/test with a diff one if its better worse? Dizzy or dizzy components like Trump sez the old points should be checked ensure they close and open right on point of number 1. Shuddering sounds like ill ignition. Earth points even. 4k's are simple engines to diagnose, what about acceleration does the vaccuum advance work? check vaccuum hose. Anyways timing light will show you what up i think they should be 10 btdc... someone might know better. discoonnect vaccum hose when adjusting.

OK not too sure about Fuel Pressure Regulators, especially this rising rate one i got. The guy told me it was 1 : 1 which means 1 part air to one part fuel adjustments when rising. The receipt says 1.25 : 1 which makes me think thats guna be leaner than normal) not sure if this will cause problems along the line. Maybe too much air to fuel Lean it out too much The guy says it would be fine for under 10 psi boost status's. If i run a custom map to have "x" amount of fuel at this time at this load etc does the RR FPR even come into play any more? As it would adjust the flow of gas to suit the conditions as the ECU is telling the injectors how long to be on for... Anyone toy'd with this idea, if i set this to be standard fuel pressure, and just let it add more gas, and drop off the amount the ecu sends in fractionally will i have some form of sweet mixture to drive it with. So what im really asking is... Does the RR FPR become obselete in such a situation or can it give a little more gas when needed when on boost?

Not much to update really, but thanks to 4age addict i scored a link to get this thing runnin the turbs right. I am pulling the motor out to sort out the sump as its seeping oil slowly out the turbo return after its run , while its out i'l sort the paint in the engine bay and a few other things such as the brake booster needs some additiional strengthining and also make up some braces for the t50 bellhousing. On the hunt for a silvertop and some low comp pistons so i can get another engine built, this will be slwly and on the side. But before i get carried away theres about a grand just there and so i'l be waiting for my tax refund b4 anyting happens. So yeh cheers to 4AGE_Addict shot for the hook ups...

get the big guys in da back even! does 80, choice as. just my opinion.... engine wise, stick with it stock, when your fed up with it, vectra sohc block, and 2l twin cam head, commy gbox, etc. anything in between that will be lack of power to cost ratio.

Wow thats a tidy score you got there. Will be an awesome car to roll around in. What 323 hubs work with that one? Must be older RWD ones. Wonder if they work for HB/C's? COs my rotors are pretty shite and would be keen to see if this is a go... Nice one bruv

Sweet so managed to track down a couple of map sensors for this engine, kind of hoarding for bits to see if there are differences and if one works better than the other. I just have to bridge out the ecu to set up the timing and run a check engine light so I can see whats flashing. Just bought a house so I have now a meke double garage room for all my crap and the car. I just need to deck it out with tools and a work bench. Will be moving car in there to rip the engine out and start to paint the engine bay. Been reading this nationals stuff sounds like it will be a jolly good show. Will be def keen for the following year.

Yeah I may flip the IC in front of radiator and mesh out the front peice to keep it sleepy, just to keep those tings hidden and see peoples faces when boot planted. That would save some drama with people knowing it has turb, and my frenz in blue. God knows they always get their snouts in when they can smell some shit.

i just put the front in just to see what it'd be like might put a front lip on there

yeh what kp sed, head dont drain the oil out quick enough if you fang for ages/do skids greater>5mins so remote catch can will sort out any extra oil. Still trying to hunt down a standard map sensor for this.... MAy have a link lined up down the track would be sweet. I am not going to make this a sleeper, or paint the IC the same colour at the mo, we will see how it looks after, keen on some sort of front lip tho to tie it in... Speaking of sleepers my mate got a 78 lancer colt with 4g63t init. Let me go for a drive in it, i creamed myself that thing was insanely fast, i was scared to open her up but it pulls a solid 15psi, weighs less than a tonne. Holy shit! Now that thing is a beast, prob best part of 230-50hp.