77magnum13hundy

OK so i might get one of those innovate things off the tard unless someone has one they would like rid of. Link details - does that v5 bit actually mean its got the V5 stuff in it? i was told it was v4 D42V5F 4AGZE 140109

Will the factory sensors run on my v4 link? Im mainly concerned about getting AFR values back form the 02 sensor? will i need to get a Wide Band 02 sensor? for my 4age

Whaka yeah!

the tube should be slightly inflated but not too much to save the tube from getting pinched, valve@12 oclock, bit of soap. the opossite side of tyre needs to collapse into the well of the rim in order for it to fit over without much leverage/levers/screwdrivers... ruber mallet, the rest on, hitting the rim and bead area lightly. practice makes perfect

maybe look at projectzero in google they will know what up

Not making excuses but Ive got a lot to do to get the car into cert shape, alas it would be a good time if i could bring this car. I will just keep plodding on. But everyday i seem to knock one job off the list, and then 3 more flare up. Replaced the caster arm bushes with nolothane ones, used some ford ones and drilled out the sleeve to 19mm to fit the rods thru. Super fat and solid, so im stoked on those even tho they are 70 bucks they are worth it compared to the decreeing 36 year old ones.. Seeing as ive got the front end out, im cleaning the steering unit up, looks like it needs a birthday. So i gutted it out and found it has some old school bearings in there like the old bmx's, so i'l clean and regrease and (try to find where all the f-ing bearings rolled to) paint it, also will paint the rest of the x-member so that everything looks mint and clean, then i can get the donker back in its hole.

first coat of blue print pearl, dark purple in dark places turquiose green in the light areas and blue in the middle, so far its taking my liking... it could be a bit much for this thing but is better than stale yeller colour the old girls been in for the last ages got some new bushes, didnt quite fit but then they did after some fettling, and so

fair play chap, looking real nice in there, and those exhausts seem to clear everything well, running dual pipes out the front of rear wheels (hehe) or single?

So not really moving forward at a pace but nonetheless moving forward, so painting inside the cabin got underway and after getting alot of lint and crap from all the nooks and cranny's its now been rust converted, The headliner has 4 rods running across to keep the vinyl in check, ripped those out to find the bottom of the roof has rust, wire-wheeled and then applied the kill rust paint, the floor pans had initially been undersealed but they were in need of a refresh the inside looks a lot better now. The dash does not come out unless you really want it to, was figuring to change the whole front to maybe a toyota one then thought na, too much faffing about. I need to sort out; painting the rest of the car putting engine in, sorting rear brakes fitting a driveshaft hoop which complies fitting seats. 1 left to do. exhaust from the flexi back. wiring entire car, pulled the loom out to paint the dash area. wiring the link in, maybe fit a oxy sensor get the car running, drivable. get cert wof and go At a guess id say 2months to go (multiply by 4 carry the one, 5months.)

its proper fiberglass, i have to sand it back a bit, real nasty stuff.. gets in every where, will bog straight on it, just was worried it may lift if moisture got between the layers kinda like metal and bog...

anyone no this? bog straight on or paint between fiberglass and bog? cheers

SO..... i have etch primed the engine bay...

Yep the v6's make some good noises, i had a 6A10 (1.8 V6 galant) and chucked a big pod on it and sounded like a porshe...time to upload a pic of mine now, the viva that is

IF your in the southern area Ive used GK engine reconditioners before for my 4age head, he stung me 400 odd but half that price was labour and puttin the shims in and mucking about.Skim acid wash, valve seats and seals. Go buy the valve stem seals when you drop the head off. This place is down the road from Panmure roundabout, it goes without saying, get the job quoted first.

hey coming along quite nicely, is the intake system staying n/a? this should produce awesome induction noises. Brake setup looks good. Did you make that box up yourself for the intake, some mad fab skills and keeping it different which is always good to see. Your tig skills are coming along nicely, time to do some cashies for the locals...

so fiberglass.... whats best to lay on that before paint, the story is my roof had a few dings along one side so ive put fiberglass on, i will work that back then get the height correct with a slight skim of bog, any paint layers needed between the fiberglass and the bog? do they react with moisture etc...

I have usually found if its got a reset button behind the face plate this can stop it from doing silly things, but not sure if yours would have one, mines a sony. sounds like its ok now....

she is actually really tall, i saw her too once dropping a car off to gitrap toyota bakindadays.

so even if they have the mounting points in there, can I remove the belts and run nothing? and what about the back seat in a 4dr, are you allowed to remove it for extra tool box space etc?, put a peice of ply in there all nice with carpet and a 12" sub or something? When my front seats are fully retracted back i think they'l be no room for anyone in the back anyways/toolboxes

can i use a set of 2dr folding forward seats in a 4dr car? if so, would i need to get rid of the lever that sends it rocketing forward and things that make it tilt forwards? Also putting a stressed seat in to a non-stressed seated car and using OG anchorages is that legit as? Stressed meaning the seatbelt clip is attached to the seat itself as opossed to the interior shell of car. Cheers

dunno if your after the flow ratings or not but this link here has helped me in the past ... http://witchhunter.com/injectordata1.php / no use at all

yep i live on hepburn chur

yeh, i think the wire feed motor was replaced, its set on almost nothing, they could have not got the wires in properly, but i did ask a welding machine repair shops in akl and they wanted me to bring it in for a small inspection fee of 100 dollars..which was a no... My thinking is that if the voltage supplied to the motor was increased then that would have great effect seeing as how i'm hardly turning up the wire speed. I think I'll run a voltage meter across it see what its reading and if its about 12vlts then reduce to 8 with a resistor.it may well blow up. it just feels too rushed when i try to start the pool going, and it makes it a crap outcome.

in this case of mitsi ones they do, but id say not all are like that, and ryanfels thats probs the best way to do that, if your allowed in the kitchen with car stuff. basically heat the thing till it expands thoery.

yeah its even faster, like stupid fast. say it starts at a 9 o'clock position and goes around to the 3 o'clock position, if it goes about to 10 or 11 its way too fast. I could crank the heat up to compensate but im only dealing with sheet metal at the mo, once we get into 3-4mm stuff its in its element.