Simon

If the pipes wont flow the volume that the pump is trying to push it would be like forcing out a stubborn turd.

my 360 is monoleaf as is my alto Will be fine

Those bike rads look good. I was just going to put the small honda radiator from my corona in there in front of the normal one. Im also interested in this

You looking for someone? Just full time? Would be keen for part time.

Will just use washers lol Havnt looked at my rear brakes but would machining 6mm off the calipers work?

Easy for you to make two more? Swap you a windscreen lol.

Can see Jesus in the rear window. Do you know if those 22v calipers are from a turbo car?

Was going to say that.

Or g-zeros Would love ssr mk2 or 3 dont know about equip o3. Will play p-shopp again tomorrow after iv put the clutch in, done rear brake shoes and rust for wof.

Im starting to think mesh may not be right for this car...

Im pretty keen for theses though. Gunmetal or light gold ish like markkus BBS.

^ Its seriously ftw. Just buy a daily driver with the least displacement you can find. And rego / wof out weighs fuel costs for the year. Fuck insurance.

Buy muy suzuki alto Capacity: 796cc Nominal bore: 68.5mm Stroke: 72.0mm Compression ratio: 8.7:1 Max power output: >29.5kW/39.5bhp @ 5500rpm Power output per litre: >37kW/49,7bhp Power to weight ratio: 64,1bhp/ton (616Kg) Max torque: 59 Nm @ 3000rpm Torque per litre: 74,1Nm Torque to weight ratio: 95,8Nm/ton Intake 31.6mm Exhaust 27.6 (valve head diameter) Rocker ratio: about 1.48 think its got like 40L tank and does 450km on full tank round town. (or something ridiculous / awesome)

Haha nooo. Is a half finished conversion. Came out with 3a-u? Or something equally boat anchor (just keeping on the pirate theme). im soo nub at toyota ... so mr2 came out with something other then the 4gauge

You certain about that man? Trying to think about that, cant see how that would work. Also about the one side spring longer i that too. Its just cos most cars have an extra 70kg+ on the drivers side for the entire length of its driven life = more sag than your grandma / mrs.

Haha nooo. Is a half finished conversion. Came out with 3a-u? Or something equally boat anchor (just keeping on the pirate theme).

Well after coming into possession of this pirate ship i had no guilt in destroying it. Trees are handy if you want to get under the car without getting under the car. Red cars a AW10 with a gen2 churbo 3s init. It faces a similar fate I think.

This is from a guy who has a 835kg mx5 with 200hp. Huge but worth the read. "Lightening the Miata. Starting at the front where you gain most in that weight removed there makes the Miata both accelerate faster and handle better. Under the front clip (plastic nose) is some crash protection that can be removed. Cut the metal brackets to use only two bolts per side. Honey comb the black plastic leaving just enough strength to prevent the nose piece from colapsing from wind pressure at high speed. Remove all the air bag crap; the four sensors, the heavy wiring, the computer, the battery, the explosive unit and the bag itself. Use a hole saw to remove the nuts that held the baby teeth (tie down hooks). Cut off every bolt in the car that protrudes beyond the nut. Replace things with aluminum, like the steel bracket that runs from the bottom of the Sebring to the block. There are casting protrusions on the block that serve so purpose except for support during assembly, cut them off. Lighten the alternater bracket. Remove the center of the bracket the holds the Sebring idlers. Remove the right side windshield wiper and its bracket. Replace the steel wiper acutator rod with aluminum tube. Remove the dash and cut out all supurflous wiring and brackets. Remove the stupid brass belt adusters for the alternator and power steering. Remove the front of the cam cover, it only covers the cam timing sprockets (I am about to do this). Replace the adustable seat back mechanisms with aluminum brackets. Replace the right seat sliding mechanism with aluminum bars and honeycomb the metal under the seats. Remove the rubber sound deadening stuff under the carpet everywhere. Replace the rubber firewall stuff with aluminum and fiberglass heat shield. Replace the sway bar with a hollow one. Remove the mud guards from behind the brake rotors. Put a 2.25" pipe from the cat, a glass pack then a straight pipe to exit under the left side of the car. Remove the radio speakers from the doors, the arial, the chome hardtop atachment bolts, all the brackets from the trunk except the battery hold down, even the trunk lid springs and brackets. Replace the trunk hinges and latch with hoodpins. Scrape off all the under coating beneath the car (12 pounds). Remove the fender liners front and back. Remove the plastic between the radiator and the front clip. Cut down the radiator brackets. Remove the metal foot guard from over the ECU. Move the ECU to under the passenger seat (takes 72 solder connections to do this). Cut away the steel rear crash protection bumpers and do the same cut down and honeycomb of the rear clip stuff. Cut off all unused exhaust hangers. Remove the retractable seat belt mechanisms and replace with real seat belts that tighten fully. Remove the stupid bar between the seat belt towers and replace with a hollow bar between the rear of the spars that run beneath the floor pan. Replace the shift knob with a wooden one. Remove the gas cap release mechanism from inside the car and just use the trigger in the trunk. There are brackets on the soft top skeleton that do nothing useful. Be careful, there are two brackets that are important. Remove the heater, fan and all hoses and fittings. Put in a JR header and save about six pounds but don't expect much power increase. Cut down the starter bracket. Shorten the bellhousing bolts, they are huge. Mill the flywheel or buy an aluminum one. Machine down the sides of the spring perches if you are using Koni's and cut off the ABS nuts. Use gimbaled sway bar links. Remove the hood latch mechanism and replace with aluminum pins just back of the headlights. Remove the headlight motors and make a catch mechanism to raise the lights manually or buy BSP's fixed Euro kit (awuful expensive but I got them for free due to an earlier problem with their PAX spring and shock kit which would have saved weight but the shocks were junk.) Replace the steel hood rod with a carbon fiber rod and make aluminum brackets for it. Of course the windshield washer was history long ago. Other than a lighter steering wheel and the Euro light kit and hood pins the Miata looks completely stock with all its interior intact. Soft top 35-40lbs AC 35lbs Door panels 5lbs (not counting armrests) Door speakers 7lbs Radio 3lbs Dash 25lbs Seats 35lbs (w. brackets) Next strip out the entire trunk, of carpet etc. Then remove the stock seats and replace with one or two sparco or clubman race seats, offsetting the cost by selling the stock seats. The clubmans are really light,about 14lbs compared to 39 for the stock. Resonably priced too, about $250 each. Then remove the interior carpet and sound insulation, but leaving the stock dash,(too much trouble for the weight saved) remove the center console though. Then the radio, and speakers, and airbags,replace the steering wheel with a Momo, again offsetting its expense by selling both airbags. Next the sunvisors and the soft top and all the works The soft top is 25lbs by the way. Then the side windows and regulators, I wouldn't bother with replacing them with plexiglass unless you really don't like sidedrafts in the cockpit. Remove the rear cargo tray, (why bother replacing this with composite?) Next, the A/C and anything haveing to do with it's operation, again selling the parts for upgrade money. Leave the heater core and controls, first so you can demist the windscreen, and keep your feet warm, and secondly it is too much of a pain in the ass for the weight you would save to remove it. The tie down hooks should be removed if not already done, to save about 10lbs. Replace the catback exhaust with a Supertrapp, and some custom tubing from Kinsler, I know it's loud but it is alot lighter than stock and you won't need to hear the radio in this car anyway. Dump the fenderwell liners altogether, they aren't worth making ligher since drilling them will defeat the reason they are there. saveing 18lbs! Then replace the bumpers with fiberglass race pieces for 28lbs. The door panels only weigh 2lbs so why replace them with composite? Just pitch um! Remove the popup headlights and mount some form of fixed headlight, This may not look too pretty, but the pop ups weigh a lot! and that weight is way out in front of the wheels making the suspension work harder too. Remove the stock airbox and replace it with a plain K&N filter, to get rid of all the weight that carries about 4lbs. Leave the wipers, for safty in cleaning the windsheild should it start to sprinkle when you have the toy out driving. Unless you are really worried about saftey or it is reqired for racing, I would leave out the rollbar, to save weight there too. But if you do add this at least make it worthwhile, but getting a good real one! For the Wheels, the stock alloy are about as light as they come, if you want 15in get the Rota circit8 or Volk racing TE-37's. Finally if you really want to go crazy, break out the 1inch hole saw and the Plasma cutter and remove every bit of non-structual metal you can find. ie the re-enforcing ribs on the underside of the trunk lid, and parts of the interior door panels. With this recipe, you should save a lot of weight, it is still street legal, and most of the parts you are adding to save weight you can pay for with the money that you get from selling the stock parts. Granted you should have a garage to keep this car in, as it will be a sunny day toy, but get a tonneau cover so you can drive in weather that is short of a compleat downpore. RumNHammer Aside from a tube frame chassis and acid dipping, I doubt there is a whole lot more you could do to lighten the Miata." Do it

Will ask my father. Hes got one for doing diesel pumps. Probably does injectors also.

Oh yep keen. I dont mind doing more than average guard work cos the thing needs rust taking out and ill spray some white paint round anyway. Ha na wasnt me. Will hit limiter for you next time though. Ill give father the car details and hopefully get a clutch kit to put in it this week. Also need to borrow your spring compressors, and to give your stuff back / pick mine up.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E-c3zy87Vyo

The 10s flipped fill the rear guards perfect. But that would leave +25 for the front and would look silly. Should just man up and flip both sets. Some hard core guard rolling. Then replace bearings before each wof.