japawagons

Oh seedy you need to work on more Alfa V6's... They eat stones through the cambelt covers and jump teeth on the rear exhaust cam. If your lucky that is.

Usually with scratch built project these days people get involved with certifiers from day one. Pay them for some time here and there to have a look at plans and what needs design approval. Take photos and document things. Make sure that when it's all done, it can actually be certified and it makes the final inspection process easier for everyone involved.

I'm pretty sure that's not gravy... If a 121 in would effectively need a Certificate of Description saying that cars with 2.0L were identical in every other way. However LVV still don't take that into account. its all about what that car in particular was originally fitted with.

Yeah you need your authority card Pre LVV Cert. The MSNZ Club sport license hasn't even got questions about flag colors etc it's super basic. Had a question about helmet storage.

Toyota spent a shtload of money on coming with the term T-VIS, rather than actually testing the improvement of airflow characteristics to the engines they fitted it to, don't see why you'd need it...

I want to believe what your saying... But do you mean increase?? not incress... Kinda throws everything else out the window...

Well no, it will not be due to not having a swaybar. I'd be looking at that shock, I think you may have answered you own question...

This never applies. Ever. Lvv certification is completely passed on what you car originally was fitted with. If it has been modified from that then this test will be applied... So if you fit a 3k to a 2k car it will need to be certified and past the appropriate tests...

It only needs to contain the driveshaft within a 360 degree loop made out of the minimum material 50x5mm within 200mm of the center of the universal. Pretty sure if you do that your good. O think I exhaust being inside it etc is fine. Also needs the reinforcement plates 300mm2??? 50x60mm whatever that is. Can't have compressible material underneath e.g sounddeadening and needs min 10mm bolts... Does that sound right peeps??

Was that off the LVVTA site? Only gets updated when its amended...

Im pretty sure that's you telling me I'm right... Thank you...

Not so sure of that YowYow. Need Cletus to confirm but I'm still sure its related to significant power increase or driveshaft modification...

Yeah definitely good for stone impacts. Just for bonnets straight carbon requires less matting thickness to get the same rigidity to hold its shape...

Wideband adjustment is best for alpha n tuning as its hard to tune load changes into it. For a warning system on a map sensor tuned system would be all you need... Why does it need more fuel then stoich? A serious question. I'd like a experienced explanation as to why people run there NA engines so rich.

Looking forward to see what you find. Why are you using Kevlar out of curiosity? From what I've read Kevlar is used for its impact resistance but carbon has higher rigidity. Hence its use for bonnets.

I have no idea why everyone runs there engines so rich. Twek the engine mixtures for best power. Engines are hugely varying in this regard. Fiat twin cams have been known to make highest power in the low 15s. Some engines love excessive fuel.

For one thing 14 to 14.8 isn't going to be causing an engine failure on a NA beams engine under heavy load... I'd see even 15 is safe. I'd just be running a wideband with live tuning. Set your ideal values and percent the wideband can modify your base map and it will adjust itself the same way a factory ecu does. No need for lights.

Attempting to make a bonnet... Fuel flap will be the 1st trial. Then moving on from there...

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Thank you. Found carbon fabric I need on all express this morning. I think I've sourced all the things I new for my Carbon attempt. So I can start buying things now...

Link to Aliexpress to the stuff you brought please Roman

I'd totally be there but I won't have anytime to get my car ready as I arrive back from the South Island that weekend...

FIA belts have a 5 year extension for non championship Motorsport e.g clubsport etc. For only 30 I'd go for 6 points. But you need to check they are homologated for 4 and 6 point. If you intend on using as 4s in the interim... Any webbing damage, Fading or stretching will void the belts and cannot be used...

$550 for a pair seems like good value. Sabelt is a really good brand. On par with Sparco and OMP. I wouldn't touch things like Jamex. Fuck there products are so terrible. The seat bases on the Fibrglass FIA seats aren't even square. Belt material looks like it's made out of old coke bottles.

My TIGs a small inverter style unit and the arc isn't stable at the low current settings. I can weld brand new 1mm but it's right on the limit of being to much current, anything below that and the arc just drops out. Works awesomely on exhausts etc and anything thicker. Might be my skill level, but I can't trust it on this kinda job anyway so no point trying to use it.