mekemelorry

failed a WOF today for rear brakes not working properly, C33 laurel, rear disc brake with separate handbrake Put it on the rollers, they are working, but not very well. Brake pads about halfish worn. The master cylinder has been changed within last 6 months, previous melted from engine fire. Re bled rear brakes and got no change. Could it be wrong master cylinder? Maybe new brake pads might improve them? any ideas before i start spending money Thanks in advance

id say so. Broadway electrical in Palmerston North send them off to Auckland somewhere to get recalibrated, maybe give them a call? I think it cost about $90

demagnetize speedo

Anyone know of a similar product to POR15? But cheaper?

Hi just thought id see if anyone clued up on nissans could help me? My C33 laurel engine loom had a melt down (RB20e) Will i be able to take one from a R32 skyline or a31 Cefiro? or something else? also running RB20e Thanks in advance

Thought I would chuck up a new thread, as the old one shit itself Had the Carina for a few years now, Nothing much has changed, a few wheel swaps, general maintenance and a touch of low. Smelly 1500cc 3AU Automatic Sigma steels Terrible cellphone pics Future plans: Fit fender mirrors (someone took factory ones off) Bigger dia wheels Maybe manual (probably not) Remove the emissions crap That is all

I think you will find vacuum tubes in that radio..

what size are the new tyres?

Then mine, Stuffed my project thread up, lost pics etc. Will try dig some old pics out. Good to see it back on here

hey, who is the local engineer that widens rims? Cheers

For future reference, its was the valve stem seals, Easy job, even without removing head.

Ive been told a compression test isn't going to tell me alot, as it would be the oil control rings worn, and they wouldnt affect the compression much?

The turbo was rebuilt by AutoKraft in Palmy, so Im crossing my fingers thats its valve stem seals (supposibly you can change them with head still on) I have a 10w40 Caltex oil in it.

After a bit of help in regards to whats causing it to smoke, its in a 97 GSR lancer I get blue smoke from the exhaust after it has been idling for a few minutes and i go to take off. No smoke when idling, only when you touch the accelerator , Doesn't smoke when your up and running , and short stops and starts (traffic lights etc) Have done a oil flush and change + filter Turbo has been serviced so its not that Im thinking Rings or valve stem seals? Any help/known problems or further testing suggestions I could try would be great Thanks in advance

Good jumper cables?

i called them today, they quoted me $80 a rim for a band welded in on 14" wheels.

my fiat done the same thing when the air correction jet in the carb blocked up,

shit its looking bloody good, just seen it on ruahine st, well done

sping shops bend the metal (probably in one big bend) then heat the steel and quench it in water, this brings all the grains in the steel to the same point so its essentially one piece again. When a spring shop reset leaves they only just warm the steel and slowly bend it in a press (start and one end of leaf and work there way to the other end). When they make the spring in the from scratch, the steel is heated to red hot, shaped using a jig, then cooled down in oil, then heated again to get the correct hardness. Then the spring is shaped and matched to other leaves in a press. You are right, but if you heat the metal until it starts to change colour, not hot enough to change to red but when it starts to get a tinge of purple or blue, then if you let it cool in the air it normalises the metal, which will be making it softer and a lot more saggy than when they came out of factory. I'm not sure what cooling rates springs require after heating, but after any heating you should probably reheat to red hot and quench in oil or water. or else they might sag like crazy when you load them up. Archers springs it Rotorua reset springs with no heat whatsoever. I worked at Auld & Voss in Palmy for a few years before it closed down. We always warmed the leaves up slightly to prevent snapping them when re-forming in a press

sping shops bend the metal (probably in one big bend) then heat the steel and quench it in water, this brings all the grains in the steel to the same point so its essentially one piece again. When a spring shop reset leaves they only just warm the steel and slowly bend it in a press (start and one end of leaf and work there way to the other end). When they make the spring in the from scratch, the steel is heated to red hot, shaped using a jig, then cooled down in oil, then heated again to get the correct hardness. Then the spring is shaped and matched to other leaves in a press.

Did anyone end up using this service?

Thanks for the info guys, its complete minus sump, head and timing chain cover, all looks to be good condition, though have not removed bearing caps etc. Old man has no use for it, got it for nothing, so is going sell it on, would be it worth getting it cleaned up and properly inspected/, or just sell it as is, where would be the best place to advertise it Thanks

Hey The old man has a engine block he has asked me to get more info on, maybe someone here can help Its a 1500 block out of a cortina Engine number 701M6015BA Has a "L" under RH engine mount Is it something special, as he thinks it is? If so whats it worth? Thanks

When you ditch the 3au, can i buy the aircon pump off you