David

you can put a alloy head on the minx block but the ports are located differently so will need to change the manifolds and fit a cam shaft to suit the alloy head, to make it even go. If you old cast head unit is still working fine try find a manifold for a 32/36 weber. I've seen Griffith's mani's for sale every now and then on trademe. I don't know if anyone stocks exstractors for these but the good old aftermarket humber 80 units should do the trick. Should be reliable and give it a bit more go. as some one said just fit a dizzy of a late model hunter. I'm running a dizzy off a Nissan CA20 but is a bit of a job to make fit. I'f you wont to go alloy head it's probly easyer to just fit a complete Late model hunter unit. You will need to get a hunter unit to get all the parts for a alloy head convershion anyway. It will go slightly better. But as every one say's they are prone to corroshion. The late model unit is slightly more capable of handling extra hourspower with it's twin timing chains ext.. The good old 1725cc was a very outdated motor in the 70's and just doing a carb and exstractors is about all that is viable. it dosn't take much to turn it into a grenade. Unless you wont to spend a cupple thow and go all out. Done well and you would'nt even think the done up motor was related to the origonal unit.

when you said "plactic cups that hold a O ring either Side" This would lead me to beleave it's a factory type manifold running 2x dellorto carbs I could be wrong. If it's single carb the soft mount kit should be just the thing. But if it's duel carbs the soft mount type is normaly a last resort. They allow to much movement between the the manifold and carb making your ballencing between the carbs to keep going out. Thats why they use only a small o'ring on the origonal type to keep this to a minimum. I had this problem myself when i couldn't get the plastic cups anymore so ended up making a brace to make the two carbs rigged to each other too keep synchronising in check. This does tend to lend to premature spindal wear as it's near on imposable to get the two carbs lined up perfectly. A flexy carb spindal linkage of a hillman avenger GLS was good to eliminate this. Getting some one to spin up some new plastic cups on a lathe is normaly the best bet.

The answer is NO. you cant use it There is two types of copper pipe. “drawn temper,” also knowen as “hard” or “rigid,” and “annealed temper,” also knowen as “soft.” The use of Drawn copper pipe is the best suited material for brake lines over alu,steel or any other alloy. But Annealed is the worst material to use. And becouse you cant tell from looking at the copper pipe what type was used. It isn't safe to allow copper pipe threw. Most people if ask "did you used drawn pipe" will just say "yes" and have no idea what your talking about leaving a time bomb as the Annealed was brought and installed as it's half the price. (So thats the reson why copper is'nt allowed). And off the subject and in reply to other notes It was interesting reading replys saying copper is'nt used as it crystalizes. Interesting as copper is about the third most malleable metal after GOLD and LEAD and Aluminium is way down the list. I'f Aluminiun was more suited to flexing then we would make are exstenshion cords with Aluminium conductors it's also lighter and cheaper. But this is not the case. And Aluminium being lighter and cheaper is why it's used in the automotive world for aircon. It also requires very specialized jointing gear and dosn't require belding after installation but in saying that requires exspanshion joints or zones where it's held rigid and copper wouldn't require exspanshion points. And for dimestic heat pumps it would be near on imposable to install (hard drawn aluminium) pipes threw wall cavitys eg (1/2" by .124" Hard drawn alu) you just cant bend that stuff you might aswell try bend a steel pipe.. The only con of copper is it's high cost.

So anyway fixed it now. Pulled it apart found one of the bolts holding the centre planetary gear had come lose hitting the internal remote for the park lever. Bending it and locking it in park. This ended up busting the share pin on the shaft. a 20cent pin and $10 worth of gasket and all good again. Don't know why i faired pulling the tranz apart there much easyer to pull apart that a manual box. Would of cost a mint going to a tranz shop.

That booster looks more like a EH holden type

I know 2xpeople that have done mk2 front stuff in a Mk1 and have both found the car sits higher in the front end. So then fitted lower springs to bring it right. Has anyone else Had this problem??

Normaly the ladden ride hight is the biggest problem and found differnt brands in the same stated hight eg. "super low" being differnt. I had a falcon and put superlow Cobra springs in it and it sat about 4mm above the bump stops/ Not much fun Then fitted superlow Kingsprings and sat about 25mm above the bump stop but the springs were softer and hit the bump stops just as bad Then finaly put superlow Lovells and sat the same as kingspring hight but hardly ever hit the bump stops. So the at the end of the day not all springs work the same. Some brands softer or harder, higher or lower but there is only one way to see how they fit or how long they last. So just buy the ones that sound the coolest and you should be right.

cool I'll get the numbers of it to check it out. just post me how much you wont?? Never had anything to do with injected cars before so this one is a bit of a lerning curve. I've tried a cupple wreckers around Invis and there not happy taking a dissy of there motors in stock. and told me they were trying to sorce one but have'nt herd back.

could be wrong but you should have 12v coming out of that wire which goes to your tank. connect it directly to earth quickly to see if it shoots ya gauge shoots up. the float in the tank varies the resistance to earth which gives your gauge its reading. and make sure you have the key on. Could be the fuel tank not earthing out well. Do the other guages in the dash work?? I seem to remember frying a MK2 fuel guage years ago by jamming the fuel sender wire and earthing in out when fitting the tank. This putting tomuch current threw the guage and burning it out. could be wrong. just some ideas.

Had the AM2 fuse blowing leaving the car able to crank over but no fuel or spark. Tracked it down to the dissy with a dirrect short on the black wire to body blowing the fuse every time the IGN was turned on. So Just wonting to know if this dissy can be repaired and who can. Or were to get a replacement?? And maybe what might have coursed the dissy to go like this I would hate to put a new one on and blow it up too.

I've used a Hilux Surf third member in a Hilux Ute casing and works very well. I found for some reson The Surf unit out of a (3L diesel turbo) runs larger pinion shaft bearings and is a 4x spider type. As both the utes I've wrecked had a 2x spider third member up front and a LSD down back. The front diff and rear diff third members are interchangable and in road going 4x4's the front diff is normaly not very worn. And another good thing about the Surf 4x spider third member is that i could fit a cheaper (LOCKRIGHT) locker. This type under throttle locks both wheels and under light throttle alows freewheel, you can still turn but does take a bit of getting used to driving around the road. It technily is'nt a diff anymore as it switchs load to left or right or both axles. Also saves only one tire getting heat durring a burn out. Having one hot and one cold tire is never flash. Also prevents locking one rear wheel during hard braking. Can move a stripped out, turbo'ed hillman hunter for a 12.20 with no problems but is a lighter car thow. It did a 16.52 with an open diff as it just wouldn't put the power down and sufferd bad turbo lag. Plus It destroys a motor every other drag. I'm impressed with your times thow. A turbo and better traction would probly get it going quicker but a turbo emptys the pockets thow getting it setup right. and i found a non-reliable car just isn't much fun.

The good old 4-speed auto in my daily driver Hillman hunter has desided it will get a intenal linkage problem and select no other gear than park. The selector shaft turns with no force and cant even fell the detents between selections. I've drained it and pulled the pan off to find the hydrolic circuit covers the hole underside giving no way to inspect the linkages. So Anyone know what bolts to remove to drop the circuit? I would hate to undo the bolts that hold the circuit together letting all the flying bit out.

are the rims 13x7's They have a desent dish on them. I brought some new not so long ago and they just had a big spacer cast into the back of them and bugger all dish. What your've got is what i wonted. Mag place didn't recon they could be done.

Been about 10 years since i've played with lancers but just wondering if you need to weld anything. I've done Hillman ones before and they have a nylon ball on the shaft with a pin holding it in place. So just need the hole in the shaft drilled about 4mm higher up the shaft and pined at that point. Then a 4mm spacer needs to be put between the selector mount and the box. A bit of alloy and a hole-saw made this plate nicely. I could be on the wrong track as the japa stuff could be different. The part your showing isn't what prevents the gearstick turning around?

All hillman's i've had always end up with ign problems. the later type with a 45d4 lucas seem to have crap condensors. Best foult finding ive found is to plug a sparkplug lead straight in the coil with a spark plug on the end of it. Lie the spark plug on the head so it's earthed. remove the points wire off the side of the dizzy. Turn the ignition on and start tapping the points wire on the earthed strut bolt or other clean earthed part. Every time you relese the points wire it should spark at the sparkplug. If no spark check there is 12v at the coil If there is 12v and no spark, check the point's wire is'nt broken (both my hunters have had this foult from motor vibration braking the wire) If not suspect a foulty coil. If it does spark then suspect a fould in the dizzy. As people have said above for dizzy foults. #Static timing very far out. #Consensor shorting out #Dirty points #Dirty rotor tracking to the shaft it's pushed onto (not a easy one to work out) #Broken sping contact in the middle of dizzy cap. #Shorn dog pin at the base of the dizzy and the oil pump drive is no longer driving the dizzy shaft.(common on 1725's with high milage) #Can even be a siezed oil pump from rust, brakes the shaft when the motor is first started. Even seen the casting broken in the motor block moving the oil pump drive away from the cam shaft drive. This can even be done with over revving the motor. Normaly a conrod jumps out of bed before this happens on a standard motor thow. Another good way of testing the dizzy is to leave the spark plug set up from the first test. Plug the points wire onto the dizzy. remove the cap. turn the ignition on and start closing the points manualy with a screwdriver seeing if the sparkplug sparks. see what you can work out. It's good pratice working these things out as it will probley crap out one day in a supermarket carpark or something and you have no tools. A lot can be worked out with no tools at all. I've cut a consensor out of the circuit before to just get me home and replaced the points and condesor when home. Saves walking.

The viscus convershion works well in my car. Also putting an aircon clutch on the altinator so it disconnects under full throttle. All less load on motor helping to keep it cool. Only foult I've found with a clutch on the altinator is on a long run of full throttle like a 1/4 mile the voltage in the battery wasn't stable and started miss fire. 2X options fitt a larger battery ( more weight ) or put a large capacitor across the the battery to help voltage isues. any one who has played with big audio amps and capacitors will under stand how this helps. Plus Caps are normaly made of alloy so very light. Also when fitting a Cap at the battery it is highly recommended to put a fuse between the battery and the cap so it can be easyly isolated and blow before cap melt down if it ever generates a foult in it. This could make a big mess of the engine bay or even torch your ride.. Wont to know more just ask.

wow 84_S12 Your've put it right out there. I must admit I tend to skip the chemistry lessons as it reminds me too much of school. A person with a little bit of knowledge can be more dangeris than someone with none. As you have put there is an outline of things to consider. Some practical things that people have tested and proved in the past are nomaly some of the best information even thow they don't know the full sientific text book behind it. A practical way of stopping a water pump over reving and cavitating is to adapt a viscus fan clutch to drive the water pump (a hevyer oil in clutch). parts are cheap and you might already have lying around. Depending on the model or type of unit will take very little time and make even a (putt about) to (burn-out) car cool better and give back some hourse power. even save fuel. This also will take testing. a lot cheaper than a electric unit. (I've never seen this on a factory car and hope there is no good reson why) works very good on my car. There is many type of viscus units and some are even temp sensitive. This type may not be so suited to a burn out car- takes to long to take up. but I could be wrong.

A note should be taken that standard driven water pumps are designed for the engine's average operating rpm. normaly around 2000rpm. The pully ratio has been selected to get maximum flow with little energy needed to turn it. Take the engine rpms above or bellow this point and volume of water flowing threw the pump will decrease. So when doing a burn-out, a larger pully on the pump maybe required to reduce the speed of the pump alowing it to flow more water. this may couse another problem when the fan is driven straight of the water pump drive as it's speed will also be reduced. Driven cooling fans have the same problem- spinning them too fast will end up reducing air flow.

Hitachi distributor from a Nissan Sentra/Sunny 1982-1989 This page talks about fitting a hitachi dizzy to the escort. These dissys are very good in the sence all the electronic stuff is inside them and just a normal looking coil on the outside so they dont look out of place and very easy to wire. I havn't tryed the convershion myself. But I have fitted a Hitachi dizzy out off a u12 bluebird 1991?? to a Hillman 1725cc motor with a nice simple adaptor made of 2x10mm peaces of alloy samwedged together and drilling the center and bolt holes threw. The drive dog was a direct fit from the lucas to the hitachi. I have a feeling the cortina 1600 crossflow had a 25d4 lucas on it and the drive dog off it should fit the hitachi nicely Only thing i could see a problem is the small amount of hight available for the dizzy in the escort. But check it out. Is one option.

Hitachi distributor from a Nissan Sentra/Sunny 1982-1989

I would deffently do a cam if the motor is already out and just live with maybe a little less power. so the motor is then ready later to put some exstractors on and maybe a good carb later. Just don't know about $60 for them. I found a recept for mine and it was $120 inc postage from kelford and you know it's right and have all the specks. Kelford in chch used to have a race Hillman Hunter so should know what there doing. They should also be about to tell you things about your reground cam like run in and other problems like spring bind and valve clearence. I would also fit a machined flywheel also when it is out. more cost but a lot of work to fit it later. Even models with auto boxs behind them love a lightened flywheel. You can get it running snorning at idle in drive and have car jumping back and forward. Would get some looks at the lights. even if you have a borg worner 35 auto fit a torque converter out of a borg worner 32 like found in MK2 cortina's. when you plant your foot from rest the motor will spin upto about 3000rpm before putting power to back wheels. with a hot motor you will sling shot mostly anything. a welded diff is a must for this carry on. Just give ya some ideas. I had this setup and it lasted about 20,000km untill the oil pump in the auto blew to bits. Auto gets very hot, mine had no oil cooler thow. Seemed to work best with twin strombergs rather than twin webbers.

This is right. There is two differnt types of valves supplyed for the hunter alloy head. There is a single peace and two peace. Run and hide from the two peace type as they love to rip apart at high revs even on a standard motor. Only easy way to to tell is by trying to stick a magnet to the valve. A single peace valve will attract to the stem and head but a two peace valve will only will attract to the stem. The two peace valve is very uncommon and just about as rear as hens teath and normaly only found in recon motors with replacement valves. But this type of valve failing gives all the hunter valves a bad name. In saying this there proberly is better japer valves around.

fitting a cam into a hunter has some little fun bit's. Biggest thing to note is the hillman cam timing marks are at TDCC on the fire of cylender #4 NOT #1. you don't wont to get the timeing 180deg out. and note if your useing any Hayes manual non (green cover) for the hunter the timing is showen all wrong. Been there done that. Also when you have taken the timing cover off and found TDCC on #4 the timing marks will line up. remove the dizzy from the block and draw on the block the location of the drive dog. This comes in handy later on. On the valve side of it. On the later models with twin valve springs like the AM3 alloy head, bind with very little extra valve travel. You may need to find an older head with the single valve springs to rat for your head so they dont coil bind. There is also different hight spring caps over the different models. So if spring bind is still a problem you may need to find the taller type. I think the AM2 head has the highest. You will also find the single valve spring also has a higher rest presure than the twin valve springs combined, making for better valve seating. As for the valve hitting the piston face is very unlikely, unless the head has had a lot milled of the deck. These heads have a very deep pancake compreshion chamber and the valve dose'nt travel into the piston sweep area. even with the timing set wrong and a 320 thow lift cam the valve can only get with in 1.8mm of the piston. always pays to check thow. the old dummy test assembling the head, valve gear, push rods and rockers and doing a turn over by hand never goes a miss to check nothing binds up. Even a thin peace of plastercean stuck to the top of the piston will leave a indentation on it from the valves when they open and if it's getting a bit thin like less that 1.2mm left then something will have to changed.

I put a under cut standard cam in a hunter that was stock standard and got about 2 extra hourse power Put a comp cam in and lost power all across the rev range in the standard motor. As the guy's say a good cam that will do something worth wile, will have a desent intake-exhorst overlap to make max power. and having a standard cast exhorst manifold will restrict the flow, undoing all that good cam craft and even take power away. I've even noted the hunter has problems with this standard without making the overlap greater. You can note blow back threw the carb at low revs from the exhorst being so restricting, this is normaly fixed with a set of good exstractors. Hillman did this so in later years more power could be exstracted from the motor in later models to keep up with other manufactures power increases in new models. If your looking for a choppy idle the cam probley wont do on it's own. The lucas dizzy is very good at buffering hunting out and keeps it firing nicely even when you dont wont it to. As well as doing a cam you would need to lighten the flywheel and make the exhorst more free flowing to make it choppy, if that is'nt lumpy anoth then lightening the centrafugal advance spring in the dizzy will also help.

Yes i've had a far share of stuffups with carbs setups, ending in motor rebuilds One of the worst was setting up a pair of twin stombergs and allowed the throttle to over travel. The setup had a pore design were the slave carb has the throttle stopper on it. This ended up twisting the brass spindle shaft and braking it. The weekest point is were the butterfly screw goes threw and released that lovely little thing down into the motor. Damaged the valve and valve seat then mannaged to borrow it's way down the side of the piston and down into the sump. Leaving the bore scratched and smashed rings.