Bling

Flick me a PM, will dig it out. I'm based in Prebbleton so south area. Not worried about coin, better it gets used than goes to waste here.

Need to be spray on? I have brush on in CHCH I don't plan to use anytime soon. Kicker is would need to have someone grab it as posting it will be a ballache.

Yeah I wonder if that loop hole has been closed yet. You know what I mean though, *puts on tinfoil hat*. Zero interest in decal plates or homemade plates forever, then all of a sudden they care.

It's for safety, we swear. Guess that means they want to be able to read the plates... so... lets see what comes next.

Wait for part 2.

You guys can get new jobs you know, OS meat, new year, new job, winning.

Best idea to send all that through. I had to do some welding for recheck and sent through photos for checking. Got the ok to paint and final check was done with it all finished.

It's ok I have AA plus. /I always have tools

Is there another option? I should really sort my uber high idle before this. But I know if I mess with it, i'll get it wrong. And will have to boring daily it again, so i'll just charge the battery and send it. I really need to enroll in carb fettling 101.

Just shop talk, but the rear design of those means the amount of height adjustment you have is fuck all. I found this out when building my car with other brand stuff. I ended up swapping my short sleeves for longer ones for nothing, but I imagine they will be a this is it take it or leave it. Just a heads up anyway, my solution was easy, yours might not be if the height is exactly what you want out of the box.

Is the head off? What about just filling the bores with coke? Sounds like it's chooched anyway so nothing to lose? Rinse and repeat till it eats away at the rust holding the piston rings.

Could be a go'er. Xmas BBQ catch up this month?

I'd be more proactive about fixing it than just for WOF if my car locked up the rear when pushed. Not exactly a safe setup. 2c Could just as likely be shit tyres? Though you mention imbalance too. So that would be worth sorting, though I don't think it's going to solve the whole problem.

Would it be locking up as from the factory it had a proper rear cargo setup so has less weight now? Add some weight on and see if anything changes.

If the other mount was already welded there, then it's probably passed WOF's for years without a problem. I'd just avoid welding to factory stuff when possible personally. Obviously it's already do so just carry on. If there was ever an issue you could remove it and tidy the crossmember back up to be like it was never done. When I put a whole new exhaust in mine, it built it from scratch so it didn't match original design. I just bolted up mounts to existing holes then welded on rod bent as hangers to suit those locations.

Is there nowhere to bolt a mount? Pretty sure all the hangers on my car are bolted on. I'd try and do it that way, or make a hanger that can link to the existing mount and weld it where possible on the exhaust. Pic might help?

@ajg193 ?

I get all my 125 sanding discs from Spaystore (Smits). They might just not list them online. I never had a problem sourcing them and I needed a fair few for the project. Often they just had to get them from behind the counter rather than the limited options on the store shelves.

I'm sure they will happily close that loophole. Lets be honest, cars have to meet certain criteria to be allowed on the road. Don't meet those rules and they can't be compiled to be on the road. Whacking some railway track on the front of your rig throws any of that compliance out the window. Surprised it's taken them this long to crack down on it.

Typically an automotive paint shop for me. I find my local one is cheaper than SCA / Repco for pretty much everything. Mine is Spraystore, but if you have an automotive paint shop in town, which I imagine you do, i'd go hit them up when you're mobile again and see what they got.

You've seen quick release steering wheels... But have you seen quick release bullbars??? BEHOLLLLLD my new product. The feathers will sure be flying!

No one cares. As for the actual topic of springs, just give Chamberlains a call, was a year ago I popped in so I don't recall the price for some custom springs. Wasn't cheap, but also wasn't more than one would expect to pay for someone to calculate the exact spring needed to meet the requirements you provide when ordering.

Man I should dig out my C64 games and try flog them. Has been on my to do list for a year easily. Did you test them or sell as is sort of thing? Were they PC games?

Thinking out loud you could also get some progressive springs made, best of both worlds. Long enough to remain captive and secure between top hat and base. Without needing to be a soft spring to be the right length / spring rate. My rear springs are progressive. They are stupidly short, but they are progressive. I'm guessing budget is the reason to run straps or the likes vs new springs that fit the bill? I was pretty close to getting Chamberlains to make me a pair of springs but due to time constraints, I made what I had work. But it would have been easier than the extra effort needed to make my stuff work. Also keep in mind you need 40mm droop or 1/3 of suspension travel as droop. Could be worth having a measure.

Another option would be cobra springs made to suit. That was a path I looked at for the rear of mine. They would do the maths on a spring needed to fit the specs you provide. 20mm longer for example with slightly lighter spring rate to keep final ride height the same? With the keeper springs you may need to make a custom adaptor to your your springs. There were only two sizes of spring that I recall, both within a few mm of each other to suit different coilover brands. I went keepers in front as needed 10mm more travel for cert, otherwise would have avoided as it means springs aren't tight in coilover, but does the job fine.