Bling

Yeah looks to be the case then, paint looks thick as, so whipping it off that part of the center that won't be visible, could be all you need to do. I would be tempted to have no paint on the flange that fits to rear of inner barrel and the return that is causing the clearance issues. Saw these which are similar era by the looks with only slight design differences. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing/4853945095?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwuG1BhCnARIsAFWBUC0ey2XLFidDU0pY56Iwuv_DYYCF0py1gH76ZMmubAAmX1dZoQ-SKOEaAhFTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://limebug.com/three-piece-wheel-assembly-installation-guide/#:~:text=A Three Piece Wheel %2F Split,mounting surface of the barrel. Likely same order for yours, has good info on the sealant too which will save headaches later with leaks.

Ahhh the old rookie mistake with bits/bytes, makes quite the difference!

To be fair, many people on here have many projects that will never see the road. So it does have merit. It's cheaper to buy one already done usually too, so i'm with kws. One should not bite off more than one can chew.

Yeah if you can source bearings to suit it could be a good goer.

Might be a dumb question, as it's been a few years since I built a rotisserie with two of these. But do you even need to swap those parts over to get the new stud pattern? Could get lucky with the stub axles or whatever they are call them swapping between them?

Spotted this from a channel I watch and thought it may be of interest. 3D printed guitar.

I would check MB / chipset specs first as that would be my guess.

Just me or do some welds on that arm look less than ideal? I know some don't look finished (I hope) but others look like welds I'd do if in a hurry.

How picky is the sensor? Would it pick up the rotor vanes?

That's not fog that cancelled all the flights, that's Mitsi cologne mist in the air. Good burger etc

Don't forget this is tonight. I have my alarm set so it will be embarrassing if I do.

Yeah I pretty much did that too, not enough spare time as the learning curve isn't easy. I just use tinkercad and so far haven't needed more.

Next week?

Does the 50:50 mix mean no methanol vapour is produced?

Yeah there are certainly situations where a modification that is certed doesn't really change the car that other mods would be affected. Must be quite a few manual swaps on the road with no cert too. I get why it needs a cert too as even if using factory bits, any numpity can do it and do it badly. My latest car was manual swapped before I got it. Nice and easy to add it to the cert list. Certainly something everyone will have a different take on. I have zero interest in further modifying my car so the cert restricting modifications isn't a problem for me. For people that like to change things up a lot then it's not so ideal.

We are lucky to have the cert system. The rules are set out before you start the process. So to me its either you accept them and deal with it. Or modify the car to stay outside of the rules that require LVVTA attention. It's good that here that you can modify cars, changing wheels miles away from OEM spec and get away with it. Plenty of places don't allow it. Clint just posted a perfect example of why changing wheels post cert can be bad. The car can't even pass a simple brake test with the wheels it's rolling on. Plenty of ways changing wheels can be detrimental to a car IMO. I tried to keep my car out of cert territory, but all the fun stuff is there, so I couldn't. Plenty of people swap wheels and then on sell the car making it quite the fun time for the next owner. See it on Facebook all the time. If they post enough info you can check the cert photos and see how far from passing a legit WOF the overpriced car they are selling is. Who is going to check the swapped on wheels meet all of the requirements they needed to pass cert? Certainly not car owners as too many are 100% retarded. So things like not made of cheese, aren't cracked, don't rub, can pass brake test, if a spring brakes they will provide enough ground clearance to not plow the road, just so many things. Normal road cars just get away with a LOT, when you step in to cert territory you get someone that has a clue actually check the car is still safe. I don't think i'd bother certing a car for one change, due to the fact it locks the car to a spec. And also due to the cost and process of cert. /rant /stuck with my wheels but they are shiny so don't care

Pretty sure everything is checked to be safe but old stuff doesn't have to be changed to meet new rules. No idea on the noise side of things though. From their FAQ's

I'd leave chassis as is and make the tray mounts work to what's there if possible. Modifying the chassis is quite different to modifying the tray which is just an accessory slapped on.

Cutting them off the tray or the chassis? If tray I'd say all good, cutting off chassis probably worth avoiding. Custom trays are all the rage.

If you modify something, check the LVVTA handbook (free download on their site) to see what areas cover said modification. Make sure it complies. Rinse and repeat on everything. Since every car is modified differently, the checklist would be pages long and most wouldn't apply to your car so not going to happen.

Ahhhh FFS, i'll set an alarm for the next one and not rely on durp brain to remember.

Could be easier to just fix them to the wheels. Would at least give really good fitment to the hub ring. I went down a similar path, but due to thickness it was going to be a pain to machine them to suit. I ended up moving what the wheel was too close to on the strut. Not sure if you're too close to something or just wanting a certain fitment.

Could just go with normal speaker box connections then? Nice and tidy and not bad time wise for connecting. You'll spend more time clutching your back after lifting the sub box out. I assume they would be fine with car vibrations. Sub (haven't checked rating specs), they tend to have holes in the studs so you can fire a bare wire in and tighten it up. Can't see in this photo if the case or not. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/speaker-box-terminals-with-banana-sockets/p/PT3006 6x9's https://www.jaycar.co.nz/2-way-push-connection-speaker-terminals/p/PT3000 or https://www.jaycar.co.nz/4-way-push-connection-speaker-terminal/p/PT3002

Speakers should be easy as not much power, something like this? For that factory look. https://www.jaycar.co.nz/automotive-4-way-plugsocket-250-series/p/PP2066 This could be ideal to cover all 6 wires though. Just plug in as needed, lol