Bling

@datlow I'd rock Teddies 100%. Will be interesting to see what changes. Camber would be a good one to see some more allowance for. I think they dropped a nuke on what was allowed, due to some people just taking the piss with camber. A more gentle approach could have worked I'm sure. But I wouldn't have a clue where to start with writing that up. If the rules change so that my new rims don't comply I'm selling up and off knitting. Was just checking the limitations for 14's were as bad as I remembered.

Legend, saved it this time haha.

Anyone got a current source for the wheel / tyre stuff? LVVTA site seems down for the information and most other links are dead. I knew I should have saved it!

They perhaps limit numbers so the reserve has a chance to survive all the leaked oil. If I didn't have to deal with extra traffic on the road to Akaroa I would have popped over for a look. /lazy

Rather than a welding class, get someone to show you how to do the basics. Welding in panels isn't too hard. Not sure what area you are in, but i'm sure someone will be willing to show you the ropes. Happy to lend a hand in that regard, i'm not panel work master though. Being able to buy panels is quite the luxury!

Sell it and make it someone elses problem. Looks pretty fucked to me. But i'm used to dealing with tin can thickness rust, not whole chassis encased in rust spec stuff.

Seems a bit vague? Wiper blades? Engine?

Getting it TIG'd on will for sure be the best way to go. Just throwing ideas around like there is no tomorrow. Out of interest though, would TIG put less heat in than MIG if just doing spots?

How does that bracket work? Could use flat bar combined with the bolts on the front. Or clamps off here https://www.anzor.co.nz/tube-pipe-fittings

Don't think the Wednesday ones are on anymore.

Thanks. Lots of good information in this here thread that's for sure. All seems to lead towards it being a worthwhile upgrade in my case.

That's some complicated formula! Will be different pads / calipers, so thankfully I don't need to work that out. The heat side of things will be massive, 200mm solid disc vs 276mm vented disc, no more fade.

That looks cool, be good to see it when all welded up. With the cutting, have you considered one of the metal cut off blades you can get? Would need to turn the wheel a bit more to stop heat build up, but the disc would last longer and stays at full size. Like this: https://www.mitre10.co.nz/shop/lenox-lenox-metalmax-cutoff-wheel-dg-125mmx22-2mmx1-3mm-white/p/306860 I run a 4" blade and haven't had to change a blade since installing it. A lot less dust created too. As mentioned though, can get heat build up if you leave it in one spot (blade itself doesn't seem to get hot). Move it around a bit and it would work well though.

Will be a combination of bigger brakes and decent tyres in this case. No ABS to be seen. The rotor sizing just had me a intrigued, due to conflicting info on the web. A bit of money to invest, so I just wanted to see what sort of improvements I might see if I went that direction.

So would that mean that for a car to come to a stop, it requires X force, acting on Y distance of rotor? So the larger the rotor, the less rotations required to stop the vehicle, thus shorter stopping distance. All other factors remaining constant. That does make sense, but I hadn't thought about it in that way.

Yeah valid point on the locking up. Looking at rotors between 262mm and 276mm. Correct on the brake fade. I get it currently on current car, but that could be partly fixed if I replaced the whole lot with new OE parts. It doesn't get driven hard, so not going to splash out to find out. The above rotor sizes are aimed at 14" and 15" wheels. I won't be putting 14" wheels on the car, so would be looking at the 276mm rotors. Weight is a good point, I will try find docs online for rotor weights. Query was more about the theory of bigger rotors alone making a difference to the braking performance. Most articles online don't even mention the extra 'leverage' provided by larger rotors. They just say, nah won't actually decrease braking distance. Generalised. Keen to know if that is correct or they are just lazy. edit: 276 vs 262 = 700g difference, approx.

So if it's acting in that way, how does it improve the braking? Purely from the leverage point of view, does it mean it will in fact stop quicker now, as the force provided by the pads on the rotor has increased, due to the leverage. I mean I get that it's not having to work as hard to get the same braking performance. So does that mean that with the same force applied by the brakes, they will pull up faster? This all may seem dumb, but i'm just trying to get my head around the whole situation. Obviously if i'm spending money on bigger brakes, I want it to be a worthwhile upgrade. So i'm figuring, less brake fade, and more force applied to the rotors via greater leverage = decreased stopping distance. Yeah / nah? End result will be four piston vs single piston, and fast street pads, on much larger, now vented rotors. I'm just looking at the theory behind it, to see what improvements purely just increased rotor size provide. Just an interesting topic I thought, that i'd like to comprehend rather than just throwing money at things and not fully understanding how each part affects performance. Tyres will be up to the task, so interest is purely from the brake side of things.

Brake theory query. One of those "pop into head" ideas. Current discs are ~200mm diameter (hilarious). Looking at potential ~270mm rotors for an upgrade (ignoring caliper upgrade for this theory). Will the braking performance be improved purely by way of the brakes now clamping the rotor further from the center of the hub? The upgraded calipers are sized to match factory booster and that sort of thing. Lots of articles basically say that bigger brakes don't necessarily offer better braking performance. Except for the reduced fade with constant braking down a hill etc. I'm just thinking that if you're clamping the disc further out, it will brake easier, as in will be able to slow it quicker as it's applying more force by way of clamping location. But I have literally no idea beyond that theory. So engineers / mechanics, school me up on the forces involved, and whether or not i'm barking up the wrong tree with this idea.

Any reason to just not put the plate in a spot like this? Worked fine on my trailer, only had to bend it back up a couple of times. Due to my own stupidity.

https://www.facebook.com/oldschoolconz/

Doh, didn't see this one on here or Facebook, or at least Facebook didn't tell me. Next time.

They'd probably accept garden hose going by the trailers I see on the road. Perhaps just sleeve it in some electrical duct so it can't rub?

Yeah I saw the round bits on the trademe setup, just figured the proper fitlering would go elsewhere or as mentioned air compressor needs to be in clear air. I guess you don't need filters at mask with positive air. You'd just want the inlet supply well filtered. Wouldn't want any moisture or oil residue from airlines etc.

Were the cartridges legit 3M? Price is good! Where is the air filtered on the positive air setup? Do you need to put the compressor outside so it's drawing fresh air, rather than filtering it?

Whats a proper air fed setup worth all up? Must be the the 000's? Makes a 3M full face kit with a workshop fan seem cheap as chips.