Bling

Is 45 threads too many then?

Cool man, keen to see yours.

I've always just had new circuits put in for my welder / compressor. You know what's what then, for not much (relative to welder price etc) cost.

Also worth keeping in mind your whole shed might be run off the one circuit. So if you plan on running lamps, radio etc while laying down phat 10mm beads, it could be worthwhile having a dedicated 15A plug on it's own circuit. No worries then. If people want things welded, they just have to bring them to you. A good idea to make up a short 15A extension lead, so you can move the welder anywhere in shed. I think mine is about 4m, means my welder can be at the garage door if need be. I wouldn't buy a welder from overseas, false economy if buying purely on price. How much is shipping going to be if you need it repaired, lots. Handy if your local shop can repair the unit / get spares. If you don't have any welder shops in town though that won't be an option.

I feel mislead, where is the lego themed fabric?

Looks like new, nice work. Did they have to pop the screen to paint it?

Have always just gone new discs, not badly priced and you know they'll last aaaaages. That and you don't need to have the car down for more than a Sunday arvo. Can only imagine that when they are near minimum thickness (after a skim) they'd heat up pretty quick as mentioned. Which would surely impact braking performance, mo heat mo problems.

I have a pair from Repco, they drop to ~$220ish on special for a pair (semi often so if you're not in a hurry). Haven't used them a huge amount yet as I can't even move my car... But they jack the car up fine and seem to move alright even on garage carpet (talking 1 ton vehicle mind you). I'd link you but their site is down, here is the aussie site: https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/mechpro/mechpro-vehicle-positioning-jacks-mpvpj2/p/A9691482 Those trademe ones look alright too, they don't even have a hydraulic ram, so less to go wrong perhaps? Dunno

Seems legit if it doesn't reflect the sun into other drivers' eyes etc.

2012 Transit custom, a few niggles such as trip meter resetting each day. Radio stopped working last week so I did some digging. It runs dual batteries and I've found that one runs accessories and the other is starter battery. Both are joined while starting, so using both. Finally got around to removing drivers seat to get to them. One is on 8-9v, so that solves that question. However, for now I have just swapped them around. Radio working again as accessories now running off the good battery. Can anyone see an issue with just rolling like this for now? Will do my homework on battery replacement. But my theory is that it will run fine as it's only during starting the now did battery is used. I just want some sounds till I get new batteries. Lost radio a couple of weeks ago. It has a stupidly overbuilt starter, will having less start up power do any damage to said starter?

Is it a camry? That was the first youtube video that came up with I looked up that gearbag. Funnily enough a transmission fluid check/change video. Looks like a job to have someone else do lol.

Another good burger, more sharns and as usual people turning up in new old cars. OS life.

Are we talking full on race spec, or could it potentially pass a WOF? Just driving to get a WOF, officer.

Great info, will check those products when on pc thanks. Was actually looking at the Teroson wax earlier as I have a local spray store that sells it.

Sweet sounds like a plan, epoxy and i'll look into cavity wax options. Cheers.

What do people paint into the backside of panels to protect from rust? On roof for example on underside where door frames meet roof. Bottoms of doors on inside etc Clean then epoxy primer going to be a good solution? I'm brushing everything, so anywhere I can't physically brush i'll likely zinc spray. But where I can brush, i'm thinking epoxy will offer better protection. But not sure if other products are better suited for that job.

If the underseal is solid as fuck, i'd probably 2 pot the lot, then underseal it all. Would want to be sure moisture can't get in from behind mind you. Don't want it rusting from the inside out.

Whip it out and see if serviceable? I didn't find mine too bad to do, circlips and swearing, sorted. Had a tiny build up of dirt, once cleaned, balanced perfectly.

Proportioning valve jizzed up perhaps. Have had that twice before.

Any reason you didn't just stretch out the frame, like you do hose? Looks like a sweet project though!

Oh yeah and something i've done on the "big chobs" is cut out a smaller section, and replace that, even if the edge is rusty. Then cut slightly into the new repair, and extend the hole to remove more of the rusty area. If that makes sense. Rinse and repeat. Means that on areas where getting the original shape back might be hard, it's easy. As you're only replacing small bits at a time, while the cars shape doesn't change as the previous repair holds it together. I've had to do this quite a bit, as doing it in one piece would be near impossible to recreate the original section as it was. tl;dr: don't always try replace a whole area in one hit, small bites works well.

All of the rust repairs i've done on current car are rusty lap joints. So I would lean towards butt joint as there is nowhere for water to get in. Butt join is more work, as fitment has to be pretty close. But i'd consider it a better method. Everyone is going to have different strokes though. Whatever you do, coat it all to stop moisture getting to it again. And as someone mentioned, if wanting long term fix, you'll need to cut more out till there isn't rust on the edge of the patch. Cut it out till you have good solid metal to work with.

I seem to recall @Truenotch mounting a small one under his race car seat, or something similar. Might not be him though... /Ling out

People pay good money to get lock like that glad it's sort, probably an original part do you think?

Put a T in the line and put half the fluid back into the tank?