Bling

Shrinker/stretcher is great. I remember doing the gutters on my boot and it made the job a breeze. I also have a 3in1 300mm folder/cutter/roller. Handy kit but mainly just used for pissing around than the rust repairs. The brake works ok for folding repair panels though. I got the bottom of my doors profile made by local shop as they were quite long. I supplied material and instructions and I think it was 50 bucks for labour charge.

I don't have this one, so bit of a Ling post, but it looks to have the same adjustment knobs as my now quite old BOC MagMate 180 (long NLA so can't recommend that one). Not badly priced either, haven't tried it but three year warranty seems decent and based on my current rig would be happy to go BOC again. https://www.boc.co.nz/shop/en/nz/mig-flux-cored-welding/mig-mag-welders/boc-smootharc-mig-180-lcd-welder-boc180miglcd-p#product1

How exactly are you mixing it? lol I was doing most of mine in the middle of summer (mid 20's I guess) and would probably get at least 15 minutes before it started to go off properly. So I would say ratio was off or maybe not mixed enough? Even early stages of mine going off it was nice enough to apply. So to not even get one part done sounds way too fast. If I had primer left i'd often do another coat, so my going off time might be off a little, was a while ago now. I'd have a bunch of areas around the car ready to go and just do laps till it was all done.

It primer (anything) goes off too quick the ratio is probably wrong. Are you using measuring cups?

Go with Spencers prep just above. So with his prep, I just rolled measuring cups from the paint store, nice and easy for getting the ratio right. I wear more PPE than most due to other health issues (makes you appreciate what you have a lot more), so used a 3M full face mask (got it pretty cheap somewhere I forget right now) with organic filters. Bag the filters up when not being used as they work X amount of time then stop working. The stuff is smells potent and I sure knew when it wasn't sealing 100% right. I would prep a few areas at once so that what I mixed up was used up.

I used that epoxy primer brushed on the hardtop, no issues so far, but then it only sees proper moisture once a year on average so can't comment on it's longevity. None of my poor quality 1k top coat has fallen off though. If you were local i'd give you what's left of my small 1L tin, but shipping that is a ballache / not economical.

Is it the RCA causing this clash? I had to have mine machined down as the LCA was hitting my brake rotor (couldn't even bolt the LCA to the strut, I was spewing). So the LCA got a massage and the reduced in size RCA helped too. I can't remember how close the rack was as rotor was my biggest hurdle at the time. Didn't have to shorten it by much and headaches were gone.

Yeah that's why I question how much needs to be powered, you wouldn't want to draw much off it. Battery out of car with BMS will be the way to go. I wouldn't try and run my 16kW heatpump, but it would be able to run fridge / gas hot water / internet and maybe a TV. That keeps those indoors happy enough. Like I say, never tried it as power is reliable thankfully. But have seen it done a bit by those overseas with lackluster power supply.

What do you need to power? Haven't done it myself but from what i've seen, if the car is "on" you can run an inverter off the 12V battery and it's charged by the main battery. If I got a bunch of power cuts i'd likely be doing that myself for critical appliances.

On mine the threaded sleeve is steel because it's the shock itself. The nuts are aluminum. I had custom ones made in 6061 but the stock ones were 6061 too. Cert man was happy with that.

Thread here with a few of the posts, was only going off memory but I think conversion is covered here

I'm hoping he will chime in when he's done sniffing his lawn. I feel like he replaced the seals but can't remember now. edit: looks like it was the o-rings, I guess because old and why not.

I think @Spencer has commented about this in the past.

How old is the car for no one to have alignment specs

Been one of those days, so I won't make it tonight. Will work out how many mitsi turned up by the number of cancelled flights later.

Not biased at all, but there is more to gasfitting than jamming some pipes together and bubble testing it. Plenty of people think they are smart enough to do it though and they end up killing (innocent to the install) people. It just doesn't make the news. Not directed at anyone, but generally people who say they can do it because it's easy are the ones who should not be touching it. It applies to all trades really, every diddle-fingers think they are smarter with zero education. Ignorance is bliss till a kid suffocates in your DIY'd shower install. As you say too, too many imbeciles out there really.

Plenty of reasons why it's work that needs to be done by a licensed person. I'm too lazy to write it all out though.

9KG install still requires gasfitter fee, $25+GST for that piece of advice, cheers.

Mine ends in 500 as it was a balance between not paying before I had to and not wanting to get pulled over with my pants down with less ODO than sticker.

Best idea so far. Time to buy a cheap EV, run a cord to it and motor around for free* *RUC not included.

I used rattle cans top coat because I can't spray properly, never cared about finish and it lives inside so not worried. Yeah agreed it's pretty shit, but I did what I could with the budget I had. If doing small areas just mix up small amount of epoxy primer. At least that's what I did, most of it was hidden eventually so I made some pretty small amounts (measuring cups from proper paintshop make this easy) to do small repairs as I finished them. I had halfmask with organic filters (sealed when not being used, they don't last forever) for even just brushing the stuff on. You know it's good if it puts hairs on your hairs on your chest just getting a small sniff.

If you can get it to work sweet. If not, 10/100Mb 4/5 port switches are sub $20+post, probably cheaper 2nd hand. Something like that should do the trick and is dumb so will just do as it's told.

A little confused as to how this layout actually is, bridges here, wired there. If the ISP box is already providing all devices with IP addresses, i'd let it do that job. Just try and get the Netgear to be dumb and just use it for it's connectivity. Turning it into basically a WAP with switch for wired devices. My understanding, which is the same as yours is that the Netgear will pretty much have it's own private network that devices on it are unaware of the rest of the network. See what options you have with the Netgear anyway and go from there. My home setup is quite different, I have ISP router handling the IP's and have the wireless on that turned off. Then I have a mesh wifi thing connected to my network which runs the wireless, with one more mesh device plugged in elsewhere to boost wifi. Do each device just does the one job and it seems to run great.

Yeah you'd want to disable the routing on the Netgear and tell it to just be dumb. Every device is probably different but it might allow being setup as an AP. My wireless mesh is run as AP only as it can do routing, but ISP router can do that so seemed less stress to me to only have one router trying to be boss. I guess you could set the ISP router as AP and run the Netgear as the router, but that might be creating more headaches than it solves. Not really ideal since the Netgear relies on wireless to connect to the rest of the network aswell.

Yeah looks to be the case then, paint looks thick as, so whipping it off that part of the center that won't be visible, could be all you need to do. I would be tempted to have no paint on the flange that fits to rear of inner barrel and the return that is causing the clearance issues. Saw these which are similar era by the looks with only slight design differences. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing/4853945095?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwuG1BhCnARIsAFWBUC0ey2XLFidDU0pY56Iwuv_DYYCF0py1gH76ZMmubAAmX1dZoQ-SKOEaAhFTEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds