Bling

Next meet: MAR 15 (2020 for Joker) Details Welcome to our third meet of the year!!! We are meeting at NPD Port Hills Road at 11.30am. We will depart around 12.00pm to drive over to the Wheatsheaf tavern. **They have bar snacks and menu food on offer. If you indicate that you are coming, could you please state below if you would like off the menu as they will need more staff on to accommodate.** Be prepared for some epic new sharns or just meet some new people. Look forward to seeing you all there!! Registering interest for food off the menu

That's a fair way the gas would have to travel to get to the water jacket surely? Wouldn't it create bubbles in the coolant that should blow the coolant out into the overflow? Does it just take a tiny nick and she's all over?

For sure, there is a big market for AE86 gear, so could be worth a look there. https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86/trd-short-stroke-shocks-ae86-corolla-adjustable-damping Just one example, you'd have to look up specs for those and compare to what length is needed etc. And nothing that works well is going to be all that cheap. Budget will play a big part in options. If going cert you can get adjustable length and dampening shocks. Just spendy as, does the trick though*. *I haven't driven on mine

Might struggle to go soft enough as the hilux is probably spec'd for twice the weight or something silly? If it's only the rear that is the problem, i'm sure you'd be able to source some from a car of similar size. /beaten

3AU one on it's way from Japan, cheers. About the same price as that one in Aussie, sans o-rings, but I have those so not an issue. Only reason it didn't occur to me to check with them first was that all of cooling system parts I asked for were NLA. So I ended up getting waterpump and all hoses etc from RockAuto.

15mm left is barely a piece of rubber lol. To keep that height though and not bottom out it's stiffer springs for sure. If going the cert road too for turbo, you'll want to do a bit of homework on what to put in it. Droop, compression and bumpstop requirements, it's a Rubriks cube. Where does one source bumpstops, is there a good place in NZ?

The previously mentioned companies didn't have any? They might have leads on someone that does at least.

Sweet good to know. I figure some form of protection has to be better than none. So just thought i'd see what you're banging on.

Cheers, the cheapest option I've seen so far, hadn't come across that though had just been looking up part numbers. Don't worry about trying to measure yours, it will be a nightmare to do. Thanks though. Will try Toyota, they may have some old stock in some obscure storage. 4AGE could well be the same. Problem I have now, is that I understand why the inside of the top outlet is so rough, part of the tube may still be stuck in it. So i'll take that off the car again and tidy it up. If I can't get it clean enough for an o-ring i'll need to come up with another solution. Which is where I may end up back at two short pipes and a clamped rubber hose. Just have to find some alloy pipe of appropriate diameter.

Hmm could be an option. I didn't think it would even be available to be honest as the waterpump itself is NLA via Toyota along with the radiator hoses. Hadn't looked up that part photo to be honest as the pipe I "had" (now chopped) looked complete, but way too short. But going by that photo, both ends have rusted completely off and no longer exist. Seems like the pipe just floats in between the two sections too as it doesn't look long enough to bottom out. Guess the o-rings mean that is legit. Just not convinced my housing is in good enough condition to seal to an o-ring. Will look on the web to see about sourcing a pipe. Edit: seems like a hard part to track down, at least from someone that will ship direct and not for $100 shipping. Maybe just using the longer tube I made and some hylomar blue will do the trick. Or I could try and grove my pipe to fit the o-rings. Will look into this.

Yeah it's a bit shit. Here is the setup, so i'm guessing most people just replace the front half. Which I would have done, but figured a whole new unit would be better. Can see the pipe there with the o-rings. Could be due to buying off RockAuto and the 4AC being slightly different somehow. Pretty sure the part numbers will have matched otherwise I wouldn't have grabbed it. But anyway, I think i'll try source some pipe and hose as it would mean I have allowance to work with. I've already fucked around linishing down a pipe, cutting it in half and adding 5mm to it by way of welding. But a bit of rubber hose will be a better solution I think.

Put the waterpump on engine today, turns out the metal bypass pipe is too short as the original waterpump potentially had a metal step or something (long since rusted away). Found a bit of galv pipe, and extended it, banged it all together and will see how it seals tomorrow. What a nightmare. I have a feeling it's 1-2mm too short and not putting big pressure on the o-rings that fit down the recesses. Replacing the whole pump is biting me in the arse. If that doesn't work I may just epoxy some stubs in and put a rubber hose between the points. Only just thought of that right now... fuck. So mad right now. Cars.

Looks good man, quite a bit of work involved in that! What product you converting the rust with down the pillars?

Sweet thanks for the info team. Will grab some rubber grease and hylomar blue tomorrow.

Would you replace camshaft and crank seals if they look perfectly fine? Recall some seals can be a bitch and actually start leaking after being replaced. I have all the seals in the kit, but worth asking.

Water pump tech question: (3AU) What is the go to with sealing them. It came with a bunch of gaskets which is fine, I assume just slap those on as is. But it also has an o-ring that sits against the block, with no obvious slot to hold it in place. Is tossing that to the side and just liquid gasketing the water pump to the block going to work? I also have a bypass pipe which has two o-rings that fit inside cut outs. Should I goo the o-rings and fit the pipe in, or just run o-rings? New bypass pipe will be NLA, like most other bits were, so it's all RockAuto supplied. So I have sanded all the corrosion off the pipe and it's actually solid, so not too worried about getting a new bit of pipe. With the gasket goo, do you put it on and tighten it all the way home or leave it a while before tightening it all the way? N00b questions I know, but giving it a go because can't move car and what could possibly go wrong? I never bothered doing it on other car, just had mechanic do it as it was so much easier. He no longer mechanics, so here we are. Cambelt is after this, and it didn't come with a tension spring to attach to the tensioner, so will have to find one of those. Apart from that, RockAuto supplied to rest. Couldn't work out why the pump wouldn't come off. Factory manual only shows replacing the front half of the pump, doh. Looks like just the front half is typically replaced. Which makes sense as mother of god, disconnecting the pipe under the headers, from the back of the waterpump is a nightmare for an amateur. That connection has some wierdo metalish gasket with a rib on it. Is it all good to goo the lot or nah? It's in far from new condition, so i'll be prepping the surfaces as best I can. Just not sure if it's like exhaust gaskets where gooing them can be better than just using gaskets alone. Any help is welcomed, chur.

Probably not to be honest

Yeah could well be actually, i'm willing to take the chance when it's $90 cheaper with shipping. If it breaks, we fix it, with have the technology. Sheepers can probably fab one up to put them both to shame anyway.

You have me convinced, can get them for $55 delivered here https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/tools-repair-kits/meters-testers/listing-2536401264.htm?rsqid=ce804657b5744d91b11083a2d3c0e32a-001 haven't used it so not a recommendation as such. Same price as AliExpress without the super long current wait. Posting incase Sheepers wants one / doesn't have one. Sounds like a right cnut of a problem, hope you suss it soon!

Just because you can legally cut and shut a towbar, doesn't mean you should

Depends what you use it for. Bike rack, maybe it would be ok. Proper towing, sounds like a bad idea. Would be better off getting one made for your car IMO. 2c

Next meet this Sunday, phone playing up so can't copy paste the info.

Is that supposed to be the shaft diameter? Can't caliper it? Failing that you can probably cross reference the genuine part numbers on one of those ToyoDIY.com sites with the frame number / details. Odd they would have different options as the engine weight difference would be marginal really. Unless they are confusing superstrut options or sway bar diameter lol.

Double check junkmail, I have a feeling I had one email end up there from the store.

Ah I see, I didn't notice the hubs had already been machined, that's a bummer! Currently going though similar brake related issues with LCA and bump steer problems to resolve. Good times.