Bling

Center of wheel clears the factory hub, so it's located with the tapered wheel nuts. Spacer is absolute last resort, would sooner buy different offset wheels to be honest. Will likely just need to buy tyres and see how clearance goes. My memory sucks, it does have a ring, but it doesn't contact the mag wheel, so in my head I worked on the theory of it not having one. Pic of hub

Is it possible to fit a wheel spacer, say 5mm, to a car that doesn't have a locating ring on the hub? Can the spacer just be fixed to the wheel, with a flange that matches that of the wheel center hole, for centering purposes? Or can a spacer just not be used in this application. Talking about front axle, where tyre to strut clearance is tight, but not contacting. Just not sure how much clearance is acceptable. 1,2,5mm? TIA

Yeah wasn't sure which would be harsher.

Could you polish it off with an aggressive compound?

Looks like a blast! Much jelly.

Word of warning for those travelling the Akaroa way home. Some weird as blue fog the whole way to CHCH.

So that means it will go through a WOF no worries? I imagined cert is all good, but i'd have thought fail a WOF because chop chop? Glad to see things coming together again, new intake pipe looks sweet. Pretty handy having the tools and skills to weld everything, no matter the material / fabrication required.

Brain fart then haha, yeah I can only remember one to two cars per person. Last one I saw on Insta was Eterna Forgot about Sigma and have Mirage and Eterna locked in to memory.

Two extremes of ground clearance. Sigma is cooler, plus I'm keen to see it in the flesh, so yeah...

Good question, i'll be cruising a good 100mm buffer above that, just in case.

Yeah mine is a different setup, calipers with holes that bolt into plates. Quite different to narrowing threads. Was just an example that some things are worth checking with certy certy man.

Have you talked to a certifier about any of your stuff? Not being a dick, but that is the sort of question they would appreciate being asked, as there isn't a one size fits all answer to many questions. For example, my certifier has mentioned extra threads in areas you can't even get a single one with your brake setup. Another certifier has said it's not required. So probably a good idea to get a certifier onboard, if you want to save redoing stuff later. I thought I had seen something about it on their forum, but can't see it now.

Two pack is king, no doubt. However one pack is still better than nothing. I've used zinc it on all sorts of shit where I CBF dealing with 2 pack. Small brackets / a gate frame. Seems to stand up fine, even when outside in the sun all year. I have a bunch of bare metal areas on car i'm collecting up to do with epoxy primer. If you already have a tin of it, go nuts I say. If you don't, then epoxy probably not that much different price wise. Unless the underseal is falling off mine, i'm not touching it. I'll patch areas that are bare and hope the factory stuff lasts another 35 years.

@- i5oogt - Is it Port Hills Rd NPD? Maybe Dyers Rd just isn't on their site yet.

Next meet: MAR 15 (2020 for Joker) Details Welcome to our third meet of the year!!! We are meeting at NPD Port Hills Road at 11.30am. We will depart around 12.00pm to drive over to the Wheatsheaf tavern. **They have bar snacks and menu food on offer. If you indicate that you are coming, could you please state below if you would like off the menu as they will need more staff on to accommodate.** Be prepared for some epic new sharns or just meet some new people. Look forward to seeing you all there!! Registering interest for food off the menu

That's a fair way the gas would have to travel to get to the water jacket surely? Wouldn't it create bubbles in the coolant that should blow the coolant out into the overflow? Does it just take a tiny nick and she's all over?

For sure, there is a big market for AE86 gear, so could be worth a look there. https://technotoytuning.com/toyota/ae86/trd-short-stroke-shocks-ae86-corolla-adjustable-damping Just one example, you'd have to look up specs for those and compare to what length is needed etc. And nothing that works well is going to be all that cheap. Budget will play a big part in options. If going cert you can get adjustable length and dampening shocks. Just spendy as, does the trick though*. *I haven't driven on mine

Might struggle to go soft enough as the hilux is probably spec'd for twice the weight or something silly? If it's only the rear that is the problem, i'm sure you'd be able to source some from a car of similar size. /beaten

3AU one on it's way from Japan, cheers. About the same price as that one in Aussie, sans o-rings, but I have those so not an issue. Only reason it didn't occur to me to check with them first was that all of cooling system parts I asked for were NLA. So I ended up getting waterpump and all hoses etc from RockAuto.

15mm left is barely a piece of rubber lol. To keep that height though and not bottom out it's stiffer springs for sure. If going the cert road too for turbo, you'll want to do a bit of homework on what to put in it. Droop, compression and bumpstop requirements, it's a Rubriks cube. Where does one source bumpstops, is there a good place in NZ?

The previously mentioned companies didn't have any? They might have leads on someone that does at least.

Sweet good to know. I figure some form of protection has to be better than none. So just thought i'd see what you're banging on.

Cheers, the cheapest option I've seen so far, hadn't come across that though had just been looking up part numbers. Don't worry about trying to measure yours, it will be a nightmare to do. Thanks though. Will try Toyota, they may have some old stock in some obscure storage. 4AGE could well be the same. Problem I have now, is that I understand why the inside of the top outlet is so rough, part of the tube may still be stuck in it. So i'll take that off the car again and tidy it up. If I can't get it clean enough for an o-ring i'll need to come up with another solution. Which is where I may end up back at two short pipes and a clamped rubber hose. Just have to find some alloy pipe of appropriate diameter.

Hmm could be an option. I didn't think it would even be available to be honest as the waterpump itself is NLA via Toyota along with the radiator hoses. Hadn't looked up that part photo to be honest as the pipe I "had" (now chopped) looked complete, but way too short. But going by that photo, both ends have rusted completely off and no longer exist. Seems like the pipe just floats in between the two sections too as it doesn't look long enough to bottom out. Guess the o-rings mean that is legit. Just not convinced my housing is in good enough condition to seal to an o-ring. Will look on the web to see about sourcing a pipe. Edit: seems like a hard part to track down, at least from someone that will ship direct and not for $100 shipping. Maybe just using the longer tube I made and some hylomar blue will do the trick. Or I could try and grove my pipe to fit the o-rings. Will look into this.

Yeah it's a bit shit. Here is the setup, so i'm guessing most people just replace the front half. Which I would have done, but figured a whole new unit would be better. Can see the pipe there with the o-rings. Could be due to buying off RockAuto and the 4AC being slightly different somehow. Pretty sure the part numbers will have matched otherwise I wouldn't have grabbed it. But anyway, I think i'll try source some pipe and hose as it would mean I have allowance to work with. I've already fucked around linishing down a pipe, cutting it in half and adding 5mm to it by way of welding. But a bit of rubber hose will be a better solution I think.