Bling

Yeah so it wasn't that sound after all... pwned. 10 months since I cut sections out of the doors, not much has changed there. Not really sure where the time has gone. Had the radiator recored with auto trans cooler removed. Had the heater core remade, reusing a couple of parts, but new core at least. A bunch more coin spent on new parts has chipped away at savings. Still chasing a few bits, and getting pissed around by people on facebook going back on deals. Shortened time frame due to next years addition (kids fred) means I need to properly pull finger on this. Dropped the diff into undercar service centre a while back, had them freshen it all up with new cylinders, shoes and skimmed drums. So that is waiting to go back in currently. Have some rust to sort in rear wheel arch, so will do that while diff is out due to bonus space. Not sure how to fix it though, so i've been putting it off. Battling a few other issues too, but will cover those in later updates. Anyway, some pics for fred. Those following along on Insta will have seen many of these. I removed the whole heater system, stripped it all down and cleaned it out. 38 years worth of grime wasn't pleasant. Had the heater core sorted at that point. Most of AC system has been removed for paint work, i've left all of the inside parts installed though so can easily put the engine bay parts back if wanted. Heater core and replacement brake master cylinder. Master was pretty gummed up so rather that fart around with it, I got a new one. Recored radiator, another thing off the list. Amazing how fast money goes down the hole. Gave the booster a good clean up too and paint job. Tested it before doing that though, seems to be functioning as it should. As it sits now, minus the diff. Space is limited to the point I need to be a contortionist to get to passenger side, which the guard needs fixing. Yay. Aiming for another update in a couple of weeks. Weather / motivation dependent.

Those spacers and extended ball joints are pretty lol. All of the flex, scary stuff!

Try the Facebook pages for old toyotas based in NZ, quite a few around, someone might have one lying around you can use the parts from to make a good one.

Could you cut a leg off each support, leaving just the top flat section? Seems like it would be strong enough unless you're loading up huge pots.

Yeah unless they like the idea of a padded cell spec track car... At least the killmat doesn't look like you're a frequent flyer at craft stores.

VTNZ would always be a crap shoot, even with a stock car. I didn't realise NZTA would block access to the photos. So any progress towards allowing inspectors / new purchasers from actually checking vehicle setup vs what it was certed as would be a plus IMO.

You may have already tried this, but you might be able to sweet talk the LVVTA to provide you the photos / some documentation to keep in the glovebox. Worth asking anyway. KKtrips would know.

Could run some 200x50 from the gate concrete foundation, to the house. Then pay a student to come in and dig out the ground level to suit, backfill with at least some base course and then pave it up. Job I was at this week had pavers all out of level, so i'd want to do what I could to avoid that. Dug up dirt can be filled in either side of the new parking area to bring the level up a bit. Just thoughts. That carport looks well built for sure, dressed timber FTW.

Quicker to scan a QR code than read and enter a VIN (accurately) into anything. Can understand why they are considering it. Must be a decent number of certs voided the next day / that afternoon due to modifications after the fact.

Just because you don't know how technology works, doesn't mean it doesn't work.

Yeah would be pretty easily doable with a QR code. They just direct you to a website link, so that link can be the cars detail page on the LVVTA site or something I imagine.

Yeah basically needs to pass the brake test they use. Would totally depend on the car too, some would barely pass, potentially even fail that test with OG brakes, others will ace it.

For the cost of the ebay box and the work required to make it actually comply here. I'd think you could get a box fabricated locally that would be miles better in every way. Or modify something that is already here, to suit. Can't be that hard to knock up a cube, with a sealed lid and a vent to outside. Can incorporate the fixings required into it. Rather than having to secure a plastic box. 2c.

If it works, sweet. If it doesn't, good luck getting any service from them. Going by the feedback. So long as you're happy getting what you pay for, it might meet your expectations. Otherwise you may regret not spending more and getting a longer locally supported warranty. 2c.

No idea on pricing, but could give these guys a call to see if they have anything out back. https://yellow.co.nz/y/undercar-service-hornby

I have no idea. I source parts for cars they never got via cross referencing part numbers. If you can get part numbers it's worth a shot.

Nothing on Rockauto?

Does the bottom half of the car still exist or has it become one with the earth? That is a monumental project right there.

Can use YouShop for UK stuff, as they'll likely not send direct.

Nice save there!

From VIRM Look into different diff heads? Would at least keep the hub odo accurate, speedo / odo would be out though. Unless you get that calibrated too. /earmuffs when on the open road, sorted.

Would need to be a pretty fat washer to work, but in theory it's still a solid solution if the taper etc is up to scratch.

NaN

Big ol turn out tonight, nice work chaps / chapettes.

Sounds like they aren't the right ones? Are they just selling one part for a bunch of different models? Someone else can comment on the washer question, above my pay grade.