Bling

Yeah got mine back from them today, dropped it off Friday, it stewed over the long weekend with the cleaner. Only had the rust zapped as money running low lol. Came up good though, just need to clear the pipes and give it a lick of paint. Replacing the hoses with Continental stuff from Blackwoods. That's a good price for all that work! Saw it on the bench while I was having a yarn.

You realise no one is ever going to plate and tag a Wolseley right? Yeah that's why they didn't look too hard. They only do it to desirable cars.

Just get good at masking and save the hassle I masked mine up and it came up fine, just spent my time making sure the tape was perfect, and also thin stuff.

What did the van do with the seats disconnected?

Didn't get to the brakes today, got busy with the "rear end". Anyway, made this as I found my hose stash. Tube is a tight fit and given it shouldn't really be under any pressure due to open end i'm hoping it doesn't leak. Will bleed it in car and just rag underneath it.

Ah bugger, that's less than ideal.

Got it back yet? Tempted to get mine done, but wondering what it cost / timeframe?

Also interested to know that one. I've done it many times in the past in cars that are well worn in, never had a problem.

I think i'll go with a combo of jizzing fluid all over my bench, then putting it in under vacuum bleed. I still need to fabricate some brackets, but i'm being optimistic at getting the master in tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips gents.

Thanks for that, will chuck it in and try with bleeder first. A good plan A, and leaves a plan B as you say. Really don't want brake fluid everywhere as it's a tight spot to try clean up.

Haven't started with a dry system before, was just going off what was recommended. Something about having "fun" getting the air out when not bench bled. I have a vacuum bleeder, would that negate the need to bench bleed do you think?

Yeah watched a youtube video where they used some kit with fittings and hose to do that. I have bugger all bits lying around to achieve that. Seemed like a good method though as could do it in car. Wonder what pick-a-fart might have. Thanks its on the potential plans list.

Bench bleeding a master cylinder, what do I need to have in the ports for it to work? Plastic plugs (not threaded just dust things) that come with the unit or will there be shitloads of pressure when pumping it. Keen to get on to this tomorrow so just seeing if I need to plug it properly or not.

Seems safe enough to work with, lol... GHS Classification: H272 May intensify fire; oxidiser. H300 Fatal if swallowed. H310 Fatal in contact with skin. H314 Causes severe skin burns and eye damage. H330 Fatal if inhaled. H334 May cause allergy or asthma symptoms or breathing difficulties if inhaled.

Was minimum fee of $50inc

Six months since last update, feels like a year... Spent the last four months with a new member in the family so car time has suffered accordingly. Will keep it brief with a few pics. Have been working my arse off the last week or so to get the car back together. Lots to still do, but I finally have a window of time to get things done, so I have to get it done. Last update ended with lack of clearance between strut and wheel. It was the locking nut to be exact. I spent a long time working out spacer requirements and longer wheel studs needed etc. Problem with spacers is that it shifts the wheel closer to the guard, which I can't afford to do, so I had to come up with another solution. I worked out a design and showed cert man and got the green light. Had a word with Anton @ajg193 and he did a proper drawing of it. He then set about filling his garage with aluminium swarf and made me the parts. I then had them anodised as per @mjrstar's recommendation. The whole design was focused around moving the locking ring further up the strut as due to being angled inward, this would provide the clearance needed without shifting the wheel with spacers. Bottom section has internal thread to match the shock body, Anton did a great job. Installed Gave the rear 1/4 frames another lick of paint or two where the trims will be, to offer a bit more protection. Removed all of the sticky shit off the frame and windows and glued them back in. Then it was time to start putting the interior back in with the new belts. Previous to that though, I spent give or take a day installing all the moving windows in the car, aligning the doors and then adjusting the windows till they operated correctly. I've got them pretty good, but I just don't have the time to get them perfect right now. If they even can be given the seals are all poo and the panels don't line up due to a hit. Happy with the end result though, even if it's not close to waterproof lol. Thursday: Friday Saturday That's where I am at for now. Some up and coming jobs: Install brake master cylinder, make brackets for front hoses, diddle with the handbrake cables, eyecrometer the alignment, organise windscreen install, fit plastics / door cards up front blah blah, too many other things. Thanks for playing.

I prefer castles so have a split pin assortment in stock. /Ling

Thanks for the info. Will stick with the current setup up in that case. If the underside of the parcel tray was flush i'd put in the required plates, but it's not close to being flush so easier option is to just leave as is. If I get time I may template it and see what the seatbelt shop have in stock.

Great thanks for clarifying that, one less thing to sort. I'll get some proper anchorage plates to replace what is in there currently though as I'm not 100% happy with current setup. Just good to know it's not something that will need to be to current specs. Cheers.

From what I have read (which could be a wrong interpretation, hence asking the pros in here) the following documents and come up with my thoughts. Due to being retrofit previous to 1 January 1991, the anchorages must comply with 2.3 below, but not with an approved vehicle standard. So my theory is so long as it meets 2.3 requirements, it should be ok. Vehicle falls within table 2.2 https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/rules/seatbelts-and-seatbelt-anchorages-2002/#table22 https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/rules/seatbelts-and-seatbelt-anchorages-2002/#416a Retrofitted seatbelt anchorages that are not required to comply with approved vehicle standards 4.1(6) A seatbelt anchorage that is retrofitted must comply with 2.3, but does not have to comply with an approved vehicle standard if it is retrofitted in a motor vehicle: (a) before 1 January 1991, and the vehicle is one to which Table 2.2 applies; or (b) before 1 April 2002, and the vehicle is one to which Table 2.1 applies. https://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/rules/seatbelts-and-seatbelt-anchorages-2002/#23 2.3 General safety requirements for seatbelt anchorages 2.3(1) A seatbelt anchorage and its mounting location: (a) must be of a strength appropriate to both the motor vehicle and the attached seatbelt; and (b) must be structurally sound and free of corrosion; and (c) must not be damaged or distorted. 2.3(2) When a seatbelt or part of a seatbelt is integral to a seat, the seat and the seat anchorages must be compatible in strength with the seatbelt or with that part of the seatbelt attached to the seat, as appropriate. 2.3(3) In assessing whether 2.3(1) is complied with, a person in section 5 may take into account evidence that the seatbelt anchorage is within the motor vehicle manufacturer’s operating limits. 2.3(4) In assessing whether 2.3(2) is complied with, a person in section 5 may take into account evidence that a seat or seat anchorage is within the motor vehicle manufacturer’s or component manufacturer’s operating limits, including the type of seatbelt for which it was originally designed.

I don't have a ticket handy for the cert car, but carjam says 14-Sep-1990. The car that I can check the actual ticket on says 1/89 and carjam says 25-jan 1989, so i'll assume the carjam dates are correct for now. Can try find an old ticket for the other car if needed though.

Have hopefully a quick on regarding rear seatbelts. Car in question will be going through cert. When imported it was fitted with static diagonal belts in rear. As per the requirements of the time to have at least static diagonal belts. These were bolted into parcel shelf with rectangular plates. It will have passed compliance I imagine with this as it will have been required on entry due to date of import. Have been reading the seatbelt anchorage standard, which seems to have come around post compliance of said vehicle. Will going for a cert trigger a requirement to meet the standard? I have two vehicles that had the seatbelts retrofitted in the same manner and have no problems come WOF time. Just wondering if I'm going to need to do anything to get through cert or not. Both cars must have gone through compliance fine as factory they come.with lap belts and no allowance for diagonals. This work must be done on entry at the time. Cheers for any help on this.

I don't have that one, but it looks to have all sorts of adjustability. Mine has a similar level of adjustability and I just wang the voltage / wirespeed / amps on whatever gets me a decent result. I never weld car panels at the lowest setting anyway as usually tack, tack, tack. If you plan to run beads on thin steel the lower settings might be needed. Wouldn't surprise me if it came with the 0.6mm roller / can probably order one if not.

What primer are you using? Does presol remove any of the shit on there?

Chassis probably just becomes the spring lol.