Bling

I'm talking about paying them to scan it, which is cheap as. A lot cheaper than buying a big money scanner to have on the shelf.

Can get car scanned at Super Cheap Auto, your results may vary.

House finish came up really nice! Hate to say it, but the mis-matching of timber levels on the steps makes me sad. Though they may be temporary, if so no worries. I'm a stickler for details though and it gave me a mad twitch. Good job either way.

Will do my best to turn up in something modern and yuck.

https://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicles/warrants-and-certificates/entry-certification/#approved-testing-stations If it has black plates you want to keep, read the first page of this thread.

Also have an old as fook record vice, wouldn't use it to squash things though, I own hammers.

Yeah basically. If the underside of a house is enclosed like that you need to have 1m either side of the cylinders sealed. It's different when things are open and closed. Once closed up, it's considered part of the building, and so any openings into said building need to be sealed behind the cylinders and 1m each side. I guess the theory is the gas is mixed with a lot of air by the time it gets that distance and so is less of a problem. Council will pull up air gaps in bricks within 1m of cylinders. Just rules being rules etc. After install, gas supplier can also pick up on things (quite common) and refuse to supply more gas until fixed.

I used to think that, i'm not convinced now. I think they have improved over time like everything else.

And that's fine, just pointing out it's a cheap welder and you're operating it at near it's claimed capacity. I wouldn't use gasless to start with, but 99% of my welding is on sub 4mm. 4mm is probably in perfect conditions.

I'm waiting for the government buy back scheme. Given how many cars kill people each year I'm surprised it hasn't happened yet.

Chamberlains in CHCH can probably make them, worth a call anyway.

How the likes of "Rightcar" and ANCAP are allowed to exist in their current states I don't know. The whole rating system is garbage and isn't close to accurate when it comes to actual safety. Boils my piss. One example, there will be MANY. https://rightcar.govt.nz/detail?q=g52790 Zero stars. Has better occupant safety than this: I picked this van as I used to have one as a work vehicle. https://rightcar.govt.nz/detail?q=g52248 Which is 5 stars. Basically if you don't tick all their boxes, most of which do not relate to your survivability in a crash, we'll give you zero stars. Over time we'll add new boxes that old vehicles that aren't retested don't need to meet. So an old 5 star rating lasts forever and can be less safe than a zero star vehicle (which is safe) released today. What a joke.

Max is 4mm for that unit and it's dirt cheap, what miracles were you after?

Overkill, i'd do 5,000km / 12 months minimum. If the engine is in good nick, then 10,000km / 12 months. /beaten

That's criminal! My old work van was previous shape to what you have, was 2.4L manual and i'd get 400km or so to a tank. Loaded up with tools. I think they are just turds really. Made zero difference how I drove it, just a turd on the fuel. I'd even test with a tank driving like a nana and a tank driving like I stole it (still stupidly slow) and the fuel economy was the same. I used to have a 2L (3SGE) 4WD auto RAV4 and it would use 45L ish for 350km. So add some weight and the fuel economy is about the same. edit More modern 2.4L auto (CVT) Corolla in the fleet uses half the fuel and would be twice as fast as the RAV4, not a problem. With the price of fuel, if you do big mileage, could even be worth selling it to buy something better on fuel. Previous work van was a 2012ish Transit diesel, so much faster and would net 9km/L fully loaded. 80L tank meant 750km or so between fills, bliss.

What did you put in it? I've got one on the bench I have nothing to lose with.

I'd probably epoxy glue the edges then pull the post back in to position. Plate over the area with something and epoxy that too for extra strength. Don't want to waste a perfectly good battery!

Could be worse (and will be one day), could be the list of outright banned modifications.

I had temporary steps / pallets at my place as I think by rights, smooth side up decking doesn't meet "slip factor" for code. Could be wrong mind, but wasn't an issue I was willing to deal with. Pretty sure up here the driveway just needs to be formed.

^That. Could always make use of that space to the side? Seems a lot less work and hassle than installing a different booster. Even if you do that, master is still going to boil alive since there is no space to fit suitable shielding and still be clear when engine moves as Clint said. Hard to say though as there is limited context for space from the photo.

You'd want to be sure of the inside condition of the tanks. Saw one on youtube that did a fair bit of damage when it let go in someones garage. I don't leave my compressor full anymore

Pretty sure it's more about the driveshaft hitting the ground and digging in. Obviously don't want it knocking around under the floor either, but in case of the van it's main job is to stop the pole vault i'd say.

Doco says ETRTO for the information, has a bunch of purchasable standards like here by the looks. The free ones look pretty technical!

Same as before, but if you get a note from mum the tyre manufacturer should be all good?

New car is coming along nicely