Bling

Sell bricks, buy old wetback, ???? Profit warm vines

I failed hard to get my jobs done so didn't make it. Perfect day for a cruise too! Hope the turnout was good, the feed was good and the beersies were cold for those partaking.

Just sell them and buy equally low key wheels that are the right width? I just don't see any way that would work and be even remotely legal. Probably a cheaper exercise too, even if that is ignored. Should be able to work out the offset you need based on what you have now and the extra inboard width you are wanting.

I'd start the design by looking at the deck building guides on Bunnos / M10 / ITM websites. They often include the building code sections relating to beam sizes for spans and spacings etc. 2.8m is a fair span, especially if you are piling your junk up there. Adding that extra post on the 2.8m length and one against shed wall, with a double beam between them could cut down on timber needed. 150x50 would probably be decent for 1.4m spans with the loading. Like I say though, the guides have the code that will be super handy for working it out.

How do you know? But seriously, i'm surprised there are only three. Unless that was just three for your year / factory lol.

That exhaust makes mine look like I stacked dimes on it.

https://www.tasart.co.nz/shop/hobby-craft/special-effects/krylon-glitter-blast/ Not sure on the spray gun method, but they glitter all those sweet whips so it must be a thing.

What a waste of time that stop start is.

Modern cars including a Swift? Impressive if so, didn't think they'd care enough to let grandma check her engine stats.

I had similar problems with my compressor, although its a big unit it had the most pathetic valve on the bottom that gummed up really fast. Replaced with elbow and 1/2" gas ball valve, ear muffs on job to drain that now. As for the coating, i'd be surprised if it did anything but fall to bits and clog your valve. Even when they do fuel tanks after acid dipping I think it's not THAT reliable. I just leave mine empty with valve open when not in use and hope for the best.

I paid just under a hundy for test with co2 fill. So in that ballpark, but more for the gas in your case.

Yeah +1 for 0.6mm wire. You can weld some pretty thick stuff with it in a pinch. But for panel work, it's perfect. I've even gone as far with 0.6mm wire as to repair a table for someone which had reo bar as legs. Sure it wasn't ideal, but it welded the 12mm bars together more than well enough. Obviously for that job thicker wire would be easier. But for panel work 0.6mm is the go for sure. Have used it for 0.5mm sheet, 2mm brackets, thicker box sections, no worries. 99% of my welding is on just shy of 1mm sheet.

We can agree to disagree. What length / spec springs do you have in the starlet? Project photos don't work now for me to look. But I assume you don't have keeper springs if you have the most suitable springs. I can't remember if FA ones are 150mm or 200mm (the normal ones MRP supply). How did you determine platform height if adjusting it is such a no no? Pretty sure you would have used the platform to provide some of the height setting for your car. The whole point of adjustable platform is that you can have the springs setup as needed, then move change the car height independently. Multiple ways to lower a car, none of which make the other obsolete. If you don't want to make use of the platform adjustment, you wouldn't buy suspension with it one would assume. To me the body adjustable platform is just another lever you can pull to get the required results.

Yeah you can set any suspension up wrong or right though. With either method. If you have a suitable main spring and keeper setup, I don't see the harm in moving that up and down to change height. Not an expert and no plans to be one. When you can't get off the shelf options for a platform though, you have to come up with your own solution. Sometimes buying a few pairs of springs, likely custom made, isn't suitable for the wallet.

I'm intrigued as to what you are driving with this setup. Is it legit balloon tyres or just a poor choice of wrong offset wheels?

Yeah cylinder size / type will depend on usage as well. I had my owner cylinder (6.8kg)tested in the last couple of years and filled with CO2 for ~$100 all up. No plans to start any rusty projects in the future so it will likely need another test at next fill. No rental to worry about makes it pretty cheaper motoring welding.

Nice and flat for orbital sander to whip it off. If going chemical make sure it won't react with the cladding which I assume is aluminum.

Why shouldn't you be adjusting the height by moving the whole body? Seems like the logical way to me. Spring perch is only useful to setting preload and the likes.

If matching existing the code will be pointless really, you should have started with that info lol. As for getting paint made, not terrible expensive no. Pay a bit more for them to fart around mixing the paint to match what you have though. They have to mix it, test it and dry it, change the mix a bit, rinse and repeat. So take them the fuel filler door and see what they say. I don't recall exact pricing, but it wasn't bad. I was just doing small areas so cheapest option for me was to get a tin of paint made, might have been 1L. Then have the put it in some spray cans. Rather than buying the paint in colour matched spray cans. Same result but they said cheaper (at my local anyway) to do it that way. Not a painter, but you'll never get it bang on, so will need to blend it into the other panels if wanting a good job. I didn't care about my car so just painted it without that worry. I still have paint left over for future repairs too. So best value is probably getting more paint made than you need. Then you have the option to get more put into spray cans if going that way. If using a proper sprayer obviously don't have to worry about that step. Oh and my paint was just basic bitch stuff, single stage so not sure on 2k base + clear pricing, but wouldn't surprise me if still reasonable.

Maybe try that road first then. They will know what is and isn't in their system. When I got paint made they could use the paint code or match off my car. No point getting it made off the code unless doing a full respray, due to years of fading. No idea what you need it for so that's all I can add really.

Any decent automotive paint shop can match off something you have, fuel door etc. Has your local paint shop said they can't knock something up for that colour?

I always used sheet that was treated in some form (zinc) as my repairs took months / years. Was mostly new gas fire panels because free. Could sit around in the garage and not deteriorate, unlike my untreated stuff. Can't go too far wrong really, just stay away from galv stuff and remove coatings where you are welding.

It's empty at the moment so that won't be helping things, probably less than half a tank of fuel. So half of the problem will probably be gone by the time I add a spare wheel, jack etc, fill the fuel tank (haven't dared yet as no fuel close to home). I do have a sub and was considering putting a floor in it to help secure that. With a lid to get to spare wheel. I'm not too worried about the adding of weight from a performance point of view, because it doesn't have performance. I need to actually source a spare wheel as I don't have one. Other than the Hoshino wheels on it now. I'll do my homework on the droop rules / regs in the meantime. But yeah adding sounds I have sitting here would help the situation, if it came to it.

https://www.autorepairsdirect.com.au/blog/differences-between-epoxy-primer-and-self-etch-primer-for-bare-metal Pretty sure this threads consensus is epoxy primer the world.

Would probably need an example. But often things bubbling up, started corroding on the other side of the panel. If it's 100% just on the front side of a panel, then what i've done is wirewheel, then metal prep with an acid product to get in the pits, then clean, clean, clean, then epoxy prime.