flyingbrick

Hi mate. Yeah I'm using a turbo 350. I'll let you know how I get on with it thanks! My glovebox lid is OK... Its the plastic bin and side bits that are all one piece and smashed into many. I was pulling on a piece of ducting behind it...slipped and thumped the panel with my palm.. Unbelievably I have blocked drain tubes but ZERO rust in that lower panel. I think because I have no air system drawing from that chamber under the windscreen now MAYBE I should fab up a panel to block off that chamber completely.. I can always put the grille back in but it seems like the easiest way to achieve zero leaks Or rust in that area. Do cars NEED ventilation other than the windows?

B&T provided a new UJ for the rear. Fark it was hard getting the old caps out. Ended up cutting the cross out with a grinder then finally got things moving with a pretty big hammer. So now the driveshaft is in! I'm not totally convinced that the driveshaft is not slightly too long but will find out when I drop it back onto its wheels. With weight off the rear wheels and the uj unbolted the shaft slides into the gearbox about 3mm.. I think that will all disappear pretty quck....but no idea how much there should be. Can always slide the motor and box forward slightly if needed ( I need to loosen off the bolts and rotate/shim the motor slightly to level up the headers with the ground.. The bad news is that I destroyed my Lower passenger side dash/glove box.

With regards to the front wheels poking further than the rears. No. No no no no

I think it has to be something in the alarm loom shorting... Can you have a visual over all the joints? I doubt its ignition barrel as that doesn't have anything to do with indicators. There has to be wires chafing or something

Iv had a browse through the legislation and I can't see any concrete measurements just lots about how much load they should take. I'm mounting seats that do not use standard fixing points. The previous owner has got the bolts going g through ugly bits of flatbar under the floor. I'd like to replace these with a square plate for each bolt and tack them (and the nut) under the floor. Is there a size I should make these plates so that they go through cert without questions. Minimum thickness?

Clint (possibly the most accessible and user-friendly cert guy for anyone in the Waikato) has picked up from the images that my shackles need crush tubes. I thought it was odd that the factory bolts didn't have crush tubes (the front spring bush DOES) and its just dawned on me that the factory studs have a stepped shank that bottoms out on the outer shackle plate. I paid fuck all attention to the older rusty bolts so really owe the guy a beer!

I am extremely happy as a test fit of my driveshaft has proven that it is the correct length and has definitely been modified previously. No I just need a single UJ FOR the diff end. I managed to find some UJ U bolts at a mates on the diff I gave him(that's saved me 60 bucks) And blew this weeks budget at SCA getting seam sealer, radiator cap and some other random bits. Look what was in the tray..should polish up nice. Oh and where the fuck is my 3 jaw puller.

Lol. I have to be speedy before motivation runs out. Most bennificial thing is having you guys to lend advice and time! Navnav do you want these aluminium calipers?

Hopefully people like watching constant updates like these. I ripped out the last of the heater ducting and then gave the interior a good vacuum. The amount of shit in the ducting and stuck behind the vents was silly- they must have had shit flying out of them all the time I then took back anything that looked slightly rusty and gave it a coat of rust kill. Would have done more but damn that stuff smells! I jacked the thing up and dropped out the factory (I think) fuel tank and inspected the electric pump installed by previous owner to make sure its not an efi pump or anything silly.. Then started removing the other set of shackles and installing new nolethane bushes. Unfortunately the new bolts are just a litttttle bit bigger than the holes in the other shackle plates and the drillbit I need is the one I don't have here...doh. I also dragged out the driveshaft and realised I'm missing a few little but important pieces. The driveshaft has a fresh weld on one end so hopefully has been purpose built to fit this! Oh and painted this.. Please see WTB thread if you have anything sitting around HQ related.

Going to smear some body adhesive round the seam on both sides then that's done

Nah that's Neal/threeonthetree

Good friend of mine drew/vk327 took my old fucked shackles home last weekend and just sent me these pics to show the finished items. Pretty cool because new ones are $150

Thankfully the water marks in the passenger side foot well WERE from the heater core leaking. Since I have a compact heater/blower assembly I made for the Gemini I decided to biff it all and start again rather than cleaning up and replacing the core. Good choice because the plastic blower housing in the firewall was glued down and came off in about 10 pieces. I made the patch out of part of a Gemini bonnet that a mate swaged for me months back. Its getting a bit late to make noise so I'll grind the paint off the firewall and weld this over the holes tomorrow. Loving this project!

Looking closely at that Manx I can see that over isolation from the sand/tarmac/dirt is not currently an issue.

The whole cutting pipe thing is exactly how I did mine Unfortunately I have to pay for materials at work (Lol) and the four I made are already spoken for. But if you don't mind paying a small fee I can cut anyone else a hoop or two. The pipe I'm using is 4" ID and 1/4" wall. Pm me

So glad the compressor didn't sell

Haha, it becomes a bit of a game. The guys at work used to be impressed when I'd show them liters per 100km in the v8 coon. They'd all be like IMPOSSIBLE MY V6 DRINKS THAT MUCH blabla but if you watch the realtime readout and drive to suit its quite easy

Yeah still got her Dave. Basically can't go any further until I finish the LS. BUT reality is that if I finish that motor it won't be going into the gem..it will go into this because its just so much easier and so much less upgrading to do. There were a few areas of the gem that worried me and which were very difficult to rectify (skinny spindles, weak front arms, etc) plus tbh I'm dead fucking tired of hearing how ugly she is. Mostly the nearly complete lack of aftermarket support bugs me. My cousin reckons he will buy the gem shell (next weekend I think) to use as a skid car with v8 but who knows And.. Additionally.. The gem has sat there idle because of lack of $$$ while I played musical employment and had no access to sweet homer tools.

Give us the deets so we know where to go!

Do you think it has slots in it? Rare spares 92006009BUMPER BAR STONESHIELD WB COMMERCIAL (FRONT)NZ$145.13

Oh its one long piece... I seeee. I wonder what the hell its called

Hey man! Yeah they seem to be a love hate thing. Unfortunately they don't have as much support as the other models. Anyone have a pic of the panel that sits directly under the grille?

Another item ticked off the list. An hour of grinding and zapping with new mig welder (old, swapped it for my tig) and a borrowed bottle of gas from work and the floor is patched and shifter fitted. I made up a bracket with tapped holes for the shifter to bolt down to and then zapped that to the patch. I should have experimented with power and feed BEFORE attempting patch but it is what it is. The floor had quite a big hole from a previous manual conversion (guessing) Also here's a few pics of the radiator fans and shroud in their final shape. All mounting brackets have been cut off and clearances for pipes cut. Might file up the shitty bits.....but probably wont. Renovator tools rule.

Hahaha. Well its not the one in the photo.. You can have the old one. Its not THAT bad.. But it is bad.