Vintage Grumble

That is poo's. Car looks fucking spot on tho, I likey very muchy.

Mmmmmm tempted. Would prolly be more comfy than the bike seat im useing.

eh no way. thats choice dont happen to know if he did anything to the engine? Nah, he didnt do anything to the motor, mind you I think its changed hands a few times since. He used to buy write offs and rebuild them, so he would have just done the rebuild/panel/paint and put the wheels on it.

Nice, I know this car, guy I worked with rebuild it (bout 10 years ago?) I went for a spin in it once, was pissed I couldnt drive it propper due to being to tall/fat. Any plans for it wheel wise?

Got this slut running tonight, well got half of it running ....... Fired up, sounded chur, then I realised one side wasnt going, shut it down and noticed the coupling half had split. They are made out of shitty porous steel, and it was bored to its max dia, so I think I will make a solid steel link, that should work I guess? Was encouraging that the motor ran so well tho, hopefully they will both run that well.

Spent all day working on this (first time at home/not in work time) got a little bit done, Got a carb from the local mower shop, have no idea what its off or what size motor its for, I think it may be a bit small, but will soon see if it runs the motors, Got the frame all tac'ed together, will braze/gas weld all the parts you can see/over the mig to give it that vintage look, Also welded the manifold, is a bit half arsed, but adds to the look I guess, Slapped some paint on it, will mess it up a bit later to age it a bit, Will clean the carb up soon, slap some exhaust pipes on the motors and see if it runs, hopefully in the next few days. Also ordered some new tires, they are a fair bit wider than the ones on the rims now, should make it look less bike like.

Put a rota in it!

Got a little bit more done, machined up spacers for the seat springs, cut up the original seat frame and bent it round a bit, Also bored the coupling halfs, cut the cranks down, and machined the front off the one way clutch, so its now just a funny looking nut to hold the flywheel on. Also bolted the motors down to some 30x10 flat bar, will be reinforced once attached to the frame. Will make up some sort of shroud to go between the two motors, to cover the coupling and make it look more like one motor, Slapped it into the frame for a nose, its sticking out one side a fair way because the bikes to close to the wall. The motor will sit a fair bit further forword than this, as the frame is a little slumped, the front uprite will be more vertical/closer to the front wheel. Will take the pull starter off and make up a crank handle, to make it look less mower like, Next thing to do is get carb, make manifold, and see how it runs. Will tac the frame togeather soon too.

Soooooooooo, been pissing around with this now and then, mostly at work, as my shed is full of crap. Aint done a lot, but that will change, should get a lot of things done very soon, some stuff I have done is, Sorted the basic shape of the frame Added a few pipes and taped it together Got the smallest Jaw coupling we sell in (its in that blurry ass pic some where) to join the motors. Father in law will be doing a bit of machining on this and a few other parts for me in the next few days. Also sorted out the seat today. Will have the frame spotted together very soon. Will pop down to the local mower shop tomorrow for a chat about carbs.

Thats a good looking wagon that is.

7 rib is the best block, not sure if they came with small port heads, is possible as that block dont have the external oil drain that the later 7 ribs have. The blue top/big ports are said to be a bit smoother/better reving as they have a smaller crank and con rods/lighter internals. I really cant remember all the different combos as my memory is so shit

Im not sure where the oil drain would feed from? Some ppl do feed them from the cam covers. There would have been a steel pipe along the side of the block, that went from water pump to heater core, and then from the core back into that block on the back of the head, but it looks like your one has had the pipe replaced with a rubber hose? If it was in a race car, they prolly didnt use a heater core. Also, the block seems to be a 7 rib (rather than a 3) so is the stronger block. The sump has been made bigger also, not sure what it would have been in, as cross member on most 4age powered cars would go through that added on section? ^ that shows std sump, rwd alt mount, and std water inlet thing.

The drain in the small ports is into the block, no 4age drains into the sump like that, that set up is home made, will be to stop the head flooding with oil at high revs, was a big prob in the early motors. And yeh, def not a 4age dizzy. Also that looks like a blue top ECU. Not sure why it would have 2x water temp sensors and a fan switch? (unless the had 2x water temp gauges?) Is there still a sensor on the back of the head in the little block that feeds the heater core?

Kinky.

^ Yes, fo sho.

Cant really visualize anything but red or gold now? Considered a dark metallic grey/charcoal, rather than black?

CV's never need repair, just refilling IMO, have run an ae92 with two balls missing out of a CV, was A OK. Clean, regrease, and WALK AWAY! As for bushes, get alloy stock, go to feek's, produce alloy replacements, fit, become a man.

Thanks for that, but it def has a hydraulic tensioner, as I already have all the parts. Im currently going through the NZ/OZ altezza club site to see if I can find the info I need, but im starting to think i'll just do it and see what happens, if all those spannerz watsons out there can do it, a fucking ace mechanic like myself should be able to figure it out ok

^ Aint done that, yet. Well didnt get this done as Whakatane toyota suck, the parts guy only works every second sat or some shit, so couldnt get any info from them, went in today, and they dont have any info any way, so that was neat, all the mechanic could tell we was "theres something weird about how you fit the tensioner, but I cant remember what" and the book that shows how to fit every cam belt in the world dont list 1gfe's, so im still at a lost on torque settings and whats weird about the tensioner

This thread is an emotional rollercoaster.

I got a complete kit, lost an RB motor to a reused tensioner once, so I always get new ones. I hit up Waimaks, they have one of those books that shows how to fit timing belts on diff motors at his workshop, should have 1gfe in it/all the info I need. Cheers for the input tho.

Hello, I hope to do timing belt and water pump on altezza this weekend, was just hoping someone might be able to help me with the bolt torque settings, and if there is anything odd I need to know about said procedure? Local toyota parts guy is a bit slack, but will try him if I have to, cant find info on the net. First one ive done with hydraulic tensioner, this sets the tension im guessing, so you dont have to put said amount of tension on belt at said point to get so many mm of movement? (silly Q I know, but best to check) Any help would be rippa. Cheers.

Web site rules.

And if you need to turn tightly, clutch pop!

Gawd thats heen-arse.