Vintage Grumble

Did it fall out? ......... Im hoping for Atlantic 4age!?

Well, got this suka going on Friday night, got WOF and Reg on sat, weathers been shit, but have been for a few blasts. For a detuned "road" version, seems to go pretty good, am happy with the power while I learn, will no doubt want more in the future. Only down side I have found so far is it eats gas like a slut, 11L tank got me 110km, thats half on road, half off. Will be a bit of a pain now its premix, and will have to make a carrier to hold a gas container if I go for an adventure in the bush. Other thing you nice ppl might be able to tell me, is what mix of water/antifreeze are you ment to run in these?. Also will have to check that its not running lean. New seat and front shock covers have made it look a fair bit more modern, but have left the sweet KDX stickers on, so you know its 90's. This is what it looks like now: Mate of mine is going to help me make some sweet graphics for it, to cover number boards n shit, will get onto that soon. Cheers.

Make car look like that for real. AAAA++++

Im not sure if your ment to do them all at once or not? My front cog and chain was super rooted, but the back looks fine, so left it. The shock boots were like $40 for the pair, I think the brand was "gators" or summin? The factory purple ones are $110 each or some shit!?! Yeh, im getting my seat redone, as it was worn to shit, and purple, is going to be that fancy grippy black shit, seat will prolly hold me up tho, as dude takes ages to do anything.

I had wondered if you had to do anything when changing to premix, any set rule as to how much bigger you should go? I was thinking of taking the guts out of the tune pipe (they have sound deadning in there) ment to be a mean pipe after being gutted, and would have to re-jet after doing that also. Cos this is the "SR" / road version its got extra sound deadning and a smaller carb, so a bit down on power then the std one, so am keen to free it up a bit.

Getting close, got the info I needed today, so motor can go back togeather, should be going by the weekend!!!!11!!!!!1 Some pics! Moments after getting it, Being a jap spec bike it had this behind/under the seat Hole in tank had been fixed with hot glue, was shit, so ripped all the oiling gear off, made a plate to cover oil pump hole Got a new chain through work, and a front sprocket/gaskets/front shock boot things in black from Kawasaki No more purple! Took snork out of air box, ment to help a bit KIPS bizo all back togeather Motor should be back in frame tomorrow, CHUR.

Not to mention the instant crap your pants back wheel action when ya give it a fistfull Yeh, I was looking at a KLX, but was a bit pricey for me, plus after riding Jonny B's (Waimaks on here) RMX250 a few times, I decided 2 stroke was the only way, is amazing how much power they make for such a lil motor. Got most of the parts on Sat, a few bits were wrong, as its jap import, some bits are diff to the ones that came out here, but got what I need to put it back togeather, just waiting on parts dude to find out torque setting for head n shit. Will post some top notch cell ph pics later. Churs.

Yeh, im looking foward to having a blast with a working power valve, should be chur. Dont have much money to spend on it tho, so will remain pretty std for the time being. Old dude that was gonna buy my YB has pulled out, is going to borrow a bike to get legal, cunt, so if anyone is interested: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =265749373 $900.00 and shes all yours.

Got me a KDX220, is still road legal, has a WOF, reg on hold. Nothing better then a two stroke enduro on the road! Rebuilding motor at the moment, as it had a gumed up power valve. Doing a few other minor things to it, will slap up some pic's soon, this is what it looked like when I got's it's: Much to some ppls horror I am de-purpleing it, as I hate purple, so will soon be all green white and black! I would also like to take this opportunity to say good bye to this little fella, the gosh darn best motorbike i've ever owned, sad to see it go, but I got piss all money, and piss all shed space, so It had to go to make way for the KDX. Sold it to an old dude with a Harley, and no licence, so is gonna use it to get legal. This is my first MX/Enduro bike, so have a bit to learn about maintaining it and riding it properly, but should be fun!

I had a car that clipped gears pretty bad, an old dude told me to mix 50/50 normal gear oil and ATF, and shit me, it worked, stopped clipping straight away, lasted for about a year (20000ish km) before it started clipping again, but if your rings are completly pee-row it prolly wont do jack.

Cars looking chur. Video is also chur. Did you use those suction cups you can get off trademe? If so, they any good? I just remembered I failed you super hard, sorry I forgot to price up bearing

Looks so sweet already, amazing what good wheel fitment will do for a car. I want new wheels.

My silver top did this for about 3 months, never found out what it was, and then one day it started running sweet, never happened again. Two guys I know have had a similar problem (both with silver tops tho) both turned out to be ECU, they have shit diodes or something in them, common for them to leak their slime out, and cause weird faults.

Depends what you intend to do with it, IMO: Big port blue top = super easy to slap in a RWD, has good low down grunt, but lowest power out put of the 4ages. not good to turbo because of light internals. Small port red top = best NA motor to do up if you get the one with the smaller con rods, and if you get the one with the big con rods (same as a ZE) its great to turbo because its strong as shit and has MAP sensor. Silver top = they are cheap, strong, good NA, and also make a good turbo motor, but have AFM rather than MAP, but you would need an after market ecu any how, so not a prob. Black top = best standard motor, but pricey, and the con rods are tiny, so not good to turbo, or for high power NA. Super charged = Best motor to turbo. Thats a general sort of over view, but I kinda think silver top is the best all rounder and bang for buck.

As requested by Jeff, ^Someone painted old wheels while on the car?

If ya get stuck, let me know, I work for a bearing distributor, IKO/INA/Torrington/McGill all have huge ranges of imp spherical bushes.

Posting pics for Jeff: 10 inch rim on back, looks about rite, Local powder coaters only had two shades of gold? Crunchy gold works tho, Gotta have the dish depth shot, We shouldnt have to use flares either, if needs be, can just add a thin ribbon of steel to the guards to cover the wheels.

I'm not a huge fan of flares, but it seems a pity to not use the 10 inch wide rims on the back, and to cut down a set of the 9 inch rims, its like getting a wang reduction? I reckon this thing looks ok with flares: Also, this car was fucking horrid to ride in before he sorted the suspension out, and it is his daily driver, so to go much lower would make it cuntish again, it still scraps on everything, and the sump is pretty much the lowest point, would be a lot of cost and work involved in slamming it, only to make it near on undriveable (fuck i sould like a sensible old man)

The camber plates on the front are already maxed out, due to size of top plate hole. The 9 inch rims on the back fit perfect, its the front track thats a little wider, and theres not enuf meat in the gaurd to pump it out to cover. 8 inch rim would be the go on the front. Its hard to tell a man he needs less dish tho ....

Here's some pic's I took of the wheel's on the front, I think it's going to need flare's, Our plan was to flip the guard lip out, so we could bolt the flare's on lower, to help fill up the gap between the guard and tire, because lowering it much more would make the car a total cunt.

Well, got car back from the panel beater, they did a decentish job, and only took them 6 days. Right door was to f'ed to fix, so took down back up door, they took the rust out of that, but now have to take car back for them to blend it in. Have started the sand down. Also found a dude to come paint it in my shed, so once sandings done, will convert shed into shit house spray booth. Doing the paint at home should save me $1500, which is good, as i just purchased this off trademe, Good ol TRD 2 way LSD!!! Will rebuild it with my 4.6 CW&P, new bearings and seals, slap it in, and yay! After the OS track day I realised how crazily huge the difference in handling is without a LSD, not only was powering out of corners wobbly/slippery and gay, but also when braking hard it was shit loads more unstable. Also did a Gymkhana in it and it sucked, couldnt get the rear sliding, and booting it just made it understeer like a slut. So LSD = Good.

Something that came to mind, if you pull an axel out, will it go back in?

That's cheating, that's what that is.

Sounds pretty chur, doing a mean job on the clean up also. I wish I had more hands, so I could give it 4 thumbs up.

Ive been for a ride in one of them, ended in going sideways down the road at aboout 120kmh (slowing down from an off the clock mish) and getting hit in the LH side by a camry, I was in the passenger seat, luckly for me it hit the front guard, sent us spining down the road, camry went up a bank and rolled, slid down the road on its roof. Ahh I have fond memories of CRX's. But yeh, fast little suckers, but they can get a bit of a wiggle on in the rear under heavy braking. Good luck.