forced

Insufficient timing advance will make it run too hot. Steve

You will . Someone in welly is building one. Might be 2 years away though. Steve

How about quad turbos? 2 primary and 2 secondary? Steve

Better to just use a pair of small turbos in parallel, like the V6 VR4. Steve

Over advanced ignition timing will cause that. Steve

By making the pump run at full voltage all the time you'll be returning more fuel back to the tank. That means probably over running the FPR and return line probably making the fuel pressure higher at idle than it should be. In turn it will run richer at idle increasing fuel consumption and upsetting drivability. Put it into the "rangi mods" classification. It might be OK though but is it worth the hassle? Steve

I think you mean "lean out" First step is always to check plugs. Steve

I'm in the middle of doing mine at the moment too except I don't have a mig, I'm using oxy acetylene. All the "experts" say you can't do it that way , so that's the way I'm doing it.Well that's because I've got oxy acetylene So long as your patch is a perfect fit, you do small tacks, let them cool, hammer & dolly them, do more tacks, repeat, repeat, you don't get distortion. That's on flat panels.Curved panels aren't a prob. It's just really slow.Eventually you'll end up with a continuous weld. A mig is supposedly so much easier but I've never used one. Where's VVV whan he's needed?

Reliability. Loose your oil, it's all over..... maybe. I wouldn't bother, for that very reason. Steve

Mechanics are only good for brakes and clutches. Auto sparkies are trained on EFI. Well to be fair, there's good ones and bad ones like everything else. If you've got low pressure electric pump and carbie, the reg goes in line before the carbie, different from doing it EFI. Steve

Those flexi hoses block up inside, they swell holding the brakes on. There'll be one going to each front brake and maybe a single one feeding the rear pair. Steve

If your plugs are fouled due to running too rich then it will fire when your foot is off the gas better than when foot is on the gas because less voltage is required. When it misfires, the tach jumps, due to excessive back emf in the primary coil winding. It's like everything else, cause and effect. Fuel problems sometimes look like ignition problems. Have you checked the plugs again? 1 and 4 will be running off one choke, 2 and 3 off the other, maybe they're not jetted the same or a blocked air bleed or similar? Steve

"ran sweet" is easily measured by MPG on the road. Any car that is tuned "right" has good MPG.Longevity and drivability are also good measures, plenty of link EFId cars have bad drivability. It is also easily measured by lap times. A 1.26 on Manfield isn't too bad for a road car with crap brakes and crap handling. EFI is over rated, in fact the VERY best way to run a turbo car is with LPG but that's way over the top of most peoples heads because you don't even need a computer for it.. I could even explain why too but couldn't be bothered. I must have missed that part on "the worlds fastest indian" where he tuned it with his wideband. Maybe I should watch it again.Maybe he just tuned it by checking the plugs? Hey did you hear the joke about the Irishman who wanted to re invent the wheel. He made a digital one, 8 bit. It's fully programmable, far superior to the obsolete analogue one. It's got 8 flat spots and 8 corners every time it rotates although the bumps are programmable in size. They're smoothed out by fitting a tyre. Version 2.1A is under development at the moment, it uses twice the microprocessor power and is 16 bit, still fully programmable and lots of features unavailable in the analogue wheel.Most of the features you'll never use nor will you ever think were possible. Once everybody has upgraded there'll be version 3.2B which has 32 bit ability. Yes 32 flatspots and 32 corners...... Still not 100% perfect but getting closer to it. Of course the digital wheel will interface perfectly with other digital wheels and can be used in things like gearboxes without the tyre of course ,unfortunately it's not all that good for interfacing with the road. The main advantage is for the manufacturer as they can be made in China for 1 cent each on a slice of silicon wafer. So what was wrong with the analogue wheel in the first place? probably just needed upgraded bearings and a bit more air in the tyre. What? did I hear somebody say "arsehole"? Steve

And I've built 2 carby turbo V8s (same car) that ran sweet, with dizzy,used as everyday driver for 11 years. Which carby turbo did you build fred? Steve

dude if you read the post instead of your one line magic hes looking at a solder yourself ecu sold over the internet. Theres no salesmean for these things there for the diy guy who's trying to save some coin. Hey dude.....anyone who's done a carby turbo conversion knows. The original question was...... is it worth it...... the answer in no. If you want to save some coin AND make it run well, stick with the original setup and mod it a bit. Steve

In a suck through system, the biggest cause of restriction is at the carby.(in fact the carby can be sized to give effective boost control without needing a wastegate) That's before the turbo, So, if it's putting out 30PSI, it's doing extremely well. Steve

Don't know where you got that from? Maybe some shark trying to make a sale on an ECU? Steve

I'm sure the stock ignition can make sufficient reliable HP, more than what the bottom end can handle. Steve

The non existant filter is to stop the crap from the tank getting through to the carby and blocking it up. Steve

You don't buy electrical swithes from a car shop. You buy them from an electrical shop. Jaycar have them, and as above, electrical wholesaler. I put a $5 one in the Zephyr back in 1982. It probably still works, maybe find out soon. Steve

The magnetic pickup (hall effect) has a slight fixed delay to it. The rise time in the coil also causes a slight fixed delay. The higher the voltage before current flows, the more delay. So at low rpms, only a small fraction of a degree. Higher rpms, more degrees more voltage, more degrees. As for coming right at the top end, I'll pass on that, too hard. Steve

You realise that with your setup the HT will never exceed 2 to 3 Kv. With that there's a possibility that your timing light might not be triggering properly. In a "real" motor the HT will go up to maybe 25Kv under load. I'd be doing a comparison with a "stock " cortina dizzy. Steve

Pajero 3.5 FTW. Lower Hutt Whangarei return 20 hours with empty trailer leaving, full trailer with car returning.Plenty of torque.Auto trans makes it a lot easier too. For sale too. Steve

If it's overfuelling, then it's the carb. Modding the ignition is just a bandaid allowing fouled plugs to fire a bit better. Steve

Mr Mitsubishi painted my intercoolers black in the factory. Mr Mitsubishi knows what he's doing. Steve