forced

I'll quite happily admit that I know nothing of Evo TDO5s however all this "big" and "small" shit originated on american forums. Anyone with clues knows that american forums are usually wrong when it comes to JDM stuff. Steve

What do you need vacuum for? The brakes? The brake booster has a valve in it to hold the vac. All you need to do is blip the throttle a couple of times. Slowing down with the throttle closed will also give good vac. A lot of Diesels are 24V, you'll need a 12V one. The load on the motor is proportional to the current the alternator is supplying. A 35 amp alternator will put the same load on your motor as a 100 amp alternator if the battery is fully charged, it's in the same car and so long as you're not trying to suck out a rediculously large load like sounds (mentioned) or lights. Steve

You just need holes drilling of the right size,in the right place, then fit new ones. I think it's a job for the engine reconditioner, at least that's how I'd do it. Steve

Does it have an alarm? Steve

Ahhh , they are very hard to see. If you pull the crank out, the top halves of the main bearings have 3 holes in them. the middle one is the feed. Some of the other holes feed the squirters, depending on position, from memory. Steve

Definately all TT blocks have squirters from the factory. There's always the possibility that the motor could have been rebuilt in the past using an N/A block. Steve

There's plenty of books out there, you just need to go to a tech book shop or library. Just very little on google as it's more a place for sheep. Yet again you've got yourself confused. The conversions that failed were half arsed jobs by cowboy mechanics who didn't know what they were doing. You've confused yourself with the problems caused by using unleaded petrol/LPG/CNG on older motors that didn't have hardened valve seats (nothing to do with the stems). The original fix was to use morays upper cylinder lubricant or similar (there's a special setup for LPG/CNG). The modern fix is to use hardened valve seats. Anything that is reliable on unleaded petrol will also be reliable on LPG. Steve

Last one I bought was $8 from pick a part.That included the connector & end of the loom. Stock factory parts FTW. Personally I wouldn't go near MSD stuff, it's too old, too expensive, too big, too unreliable & outdated. Steve

Still use your coil, an igniter is just another name for an electronic ignition amplifier. So the points drive the igniter and the igniter drives the coil.There's only a small current through the points then and generally the igniter has the dwell extension built into it so you get a bettter spark even at high revs. Once you've got one of those then it's easier to fit a rev limiter if needed. Another thing to be aware of is that when points wear and need resetting, the gap gets smaller rather than bigger because it's the rubbing block that actually wears down, not the points themselves. Steve

As above but if you run 12v all the time to an 8v coil it will run too hot too and be more likely to burn out if you left the ignition on with the motor not running. If you're rewiring the car, i'd have thought it a lot easier to start with a stock loom rather than doing it from scratch. If you had a haynes manual or similar then you'd have the wiring diagram. A nice easy upgrade would be to use an igniter from a later model car (to give a better spark) along with a balast resistor which would be best bought from a place like pick a part. Steve

It's so that while cranking the coil gets 12V direct from the starter. Once running the coil gets a lower voltage from the ballast resistor. Steve

It's all about putting lots of thought and planning into it and doing your homework properly. Working how much you're going to spend and working out how many $$ each HP is costing. There's usually a cheap easy way around every problem it's just that the cheap easy ways don't get "pushed" as nobody makes money out of it. I do all my shopping at pick a part. Anyway after my negative comments..... don't forget to dyno it first, put it up on here for us to see........ then dyno it afterwards. Then I'll be happy to accept that I'm wrong. Steve

Manufacturers are very good at designing everything and all modifications are a compromise at best, more often than not a modification will make your car run worse in many ways. Going back into history a bit, cars had single carbies. The main problem with say one carb and 6 cylinders is that you don't get an equal amount of both fuel and air into each cylinder, some cylinders run rich while others run lean. Also a single carby is quite restrictive air wise. So the likes of bike carbs and say weber DCOEs, the main advantage is that they give plenty of air but also give exactly the same AFR to each cylinder. Port EFI is a lot better than a carby as the fuel is injected straight into the port.There's also less intake restriction than a carby, afterall a carby needs some sort of restriction to suck out the fuel. The computer used on a 4G63 needs an AFM which of course needs to be mounted on a plenum, the AFM itsself causes a very minimal restriction to the intake but the AFM is the most accurate way of measuring air, which gives perfect drivability without flat spots, stalling, leanouts and also gives good power and good mpg. So, you could probably get it working with the likes of a megasquirt but you'd need a clean vacuum signal. The problem with individual throttle bodies is that they only flow for about 30% of the time so give very strong pulses as opposed to a single throttle body which will almost flow constantly. 4 throttle bodies won't really give any difference to restriction than a single large one. To get a clean vacuum signal you need some sort of vacuum reservoir, which is another compromise between getting a clean signal and getting a signal which can change quickly.Of course you could smooth the signal electrically. If you don't get a clean vac signal it willl be very hard to tune and a pig to drive, thirsty too. As for alpha N, that's only good as a failsafe for when the AFM craps out. If you're going to modify something you at least want it to be better rather than worse. No point in driving something that guzzles the gas either. Another way of looking at it is to look at the factory high performance N/A motors and see what they do. Sure bikes use individual T/Bs probably really because there's no room for a plenum. Mitsi's top of the line N/A motors use a single T/B & map sensor. It just seems to me like it's a another way of spending lots of money for no or minimal return. How about LPG? (just to be different) Cheaper than petrol, cleaner burning, oil doesn't get dirty so quick,the motor will last nearly for ever, higher octane AND you can get more power out of it if you build the motor right. No computer needed either. Maybe nobody's into it because there's nobody to follow. Steve

I guess it depends whether you just want it to look pretty , or actually run well. Realistically it'll run like a POS compared to the stock setup. Steve

I'd have thought the best thing to do would be to disconnect your amp, charge the battery, then see if it's still playing up. Rather than trying to measure current which is a bit tricky at the best of times, put the voltmeter on the disconnected battery after it's been sitting for a couple of hours,after charging, reconnect the battery while monitoring the voltage, it will drop a bit. Then reconnect the amp and see how much further it drops. Current draw from the battery is proportional to the voltage drop. Ideally there should be close to no extra voltage drop when the amp is reconnected. Steve

That way you can't go wrong. Steve

Maybe as an attempt to make the sump fit. The sump bolts to the block at the sides, the main seal at the back and the oil pump at the front. Steve

Hey, just read your post on 3SI. You haven't yet figured out that the 2 sumps are totally different & not interchangable? Same goes for oil & waterpumps. Steve

Or jack it up by the centre of the diff, see if it's still on a lean. Jack it up by the centre of the front crossmenber.... see if it's still on a lean. Steve

Missing hoses will probably mean the boost controller got taken out. So it's probably been thrashed as all turbo cars are. How did the old plugs look? oil on the threads? Overboost will cause detonation which in turn will make it run over rich. Chances are the oxy sensor will be faulty as well also making it run over rich. Plugs should last nearly for ever so long as the motor is good. If the plugs actually NEED changing , it will be because the motor is sick. Steve

Mitsi 6G72 are 91.1mm, got lots in my garage. Only mine are for a 4 valve head. Pajero 3.0, V3000 etc are a 2 valve head and same size but don't have any. Do you want the compression height measuring? Steve

It's only the TT blocks that have the squirters. Funnily enough though the 4 cyl mivec blocks DO have them. Steve

What I meant with the manifolds was that if the manifolds themselves will fit between the strut towers, all you need is a flange and pipe, the turbos could be mounted anywhere...... like on top of the cam covers with the oil draining straight into the cover. You're going to be tight on space at best. Then build your intake manifold around the space that's left. Just another useless suggestion. Something else I forgot, the 30M block doesn't have the oil squirters that the GTO TT block has. I don't know if that's important or not. Maybe find out one day.They can be put in though. Steve

You should think of a head as like a giant block of rubber with big holes in it. When there's pressure in the combustion chamber, it lifts slightly,depending on how strong it is , or isn't, unsealing itsself, then seals again. Measure it all you like, it will always be flat. The thinner the face,the bigger the holes, the more it lifts. Just like a Hillman Hunter alloy head. Steve

Hmmmmm. Also , that photo, can't remember which page, the TT motor with the head off. From the photo it didn't look like there were any valve reliefs in the pistons? must be just the photo. For your exhaust manifolds, if you could get a pair of the cast rear TT manifolds, you could mount the turbos on them, via adaptors if needed or even some other turbos via adaptors. Far easier and far more reliable than building manifolds from scratch. Flanges aren't a problem any more. Steve