Frosty

He means the piston rings. here's how to check if you actually have a problem other than a small oil leak because you are using the wrong cap. Start the engine and take the filler cap of, place a bit of paper over the hole and see how much it moves. If it bounces up and down more than 1mm or so your problem is larger than the wrong cap. If you haven't got enough room for the right cap ether block the vent holes in the cap you are using or find a cap that does the job that hasn't got a vent system in it or cut down the filler pipe enough so you can fit the right cap and run the hose to a catch can.

That would be your problem . Wrong cap. The 2Lt Cortina uses the cap as the vent with a hose running to the air cleaner.

The fuel reg might be getting stuck in the full open position every now and again or the fuel return line my be partially blocked causing an over fueling. It could also be a faulty injector getting stuck open or not closing fully. coldturkey could be onto something with his spark related comments to that could be sending unburnt or partially burnt fuel out the back.

KT-140 and YX-70 use the same regulator, some are solid state and far more reliable. The later RWD Starlets may use them to but I'm not as familiar with then. I have used the early rectangle plug ones to by swapping over the plug, just hook up the new plug but matching where they go in the regulator, The colors don't match but you will be able to see where each wire goes by taking of the cover on the regulators underside. If the reg is the older contact type you may be able to clean up the contacts in it under the top (black) cover and get it working again or you could take it to an auto sparky so he can set it back to working settings. The solenoids and contacts can go out of calibration or get burnt over time. The older cars with a generator actually had an adjustable reg on them that you set your self with screws to set the on and of points dependent on the voltage of the battery while the engine was running.

That black box that's attached to that plug is the regulator, that is far more likely to be your problem. If the Alternator was faulty the idiot light would be on or the system would be over charging.

Is the breather piping hooked up? nzed is correct, this is most likely caused by pressure in the crankcase caused by a burnt out piston, meaning your engine is buggered. But I have seen a head gasket blow into an oil gallery cause this to which is at least repairable without rebuilding the whole engine.

Far more likely the external regulator is buggered. Unplug it rather than the battery and see if the battery is flat in the morning. Should be on the left hand side just behind the battery, round plug on the TT-140's if my memory serves me.

Needs injection and a turbo. LOL But seriously it's sweet I would roll it just the way it is and still be in full PINE. Your possible pic is sweet to but I'm not sure about keeping the front disc, I can see a twin leading shoe with slots between the cooling fins on the front like the old race Norton's ran. I know this is a strange question but is W650 a one up one down piston arrangement (the Honda CB350 was like this) or the more normal both pistons moving up and down together?

If you read my first post you would have had the firing order! You are trying to make an injected engine run well with a carb. Without everything hooked up like idle control (if this is open by default it could be why you are running lean) and spark retard not to mention 20psi from a EFI pump instead of 6psi or so there is no way you will ever get it right. I'm surprised it runs at all. 1600 Avenger push rod is a very different from the 2T-G 1600 DOHC. You can get 2T-G twin side draft manifolds to suit twin choke Minkuni's / Webber's or Delorto's and twin SU type single chokes as well, I think there's also a duel twin choke down draft set up like the 3K uses available to if you look hard enough.

Every one else seems to be telling you "don't waste your time" In reality there's realty only two things that cause inlet back fires to that degree. 1, Spark plug leads round the wrong way. To check, Take dizzy cap of and check where no 1 is. That will be 1 or 4 depending on the position of the cam. Next turn over the engine to check which way the shaft turns. Use the 1342 firing order based on that. 2, An inlet valve is hanging open. To eliminate this as a cause do a compression test, if 1 cylinder is low you've found your problem. Ohh and fix that fuel leak before you hurt your self.

R100 has a Mazda Eunos V6 with supercharger & Yoeddynz has just finished putting a na version into his Viva, add an after market ecu and you would have an awesome little car. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38396-fs-mazda-eunos-800-supercharged-v6/ //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/28896-yoeddynzs-1968-viva-now-has-a-mazda-v6-lurking-in-engine-bay/

Sounds like a capacitor has been fitted to smooth out the power for a stereo or RT. I know the old Alpines used a little black box on the power feeds that had a capacitor and a line filter to suppress electrical noise from the Alternator/Ignition. Caps can hold a charge for ages and a LED doesn't take much power to run for a couple of seconds.

Electric windows in Toyota's use a 2 wire setup for the motivators(winders). + & - are hooked up one way to go up and the other way round for down & each switch will have a total of 6 wires running to it (shit loads more in the drivers door if the master switch is there). This means that the whole loom & switch set are required to make it work & I doubt it will be included in the basic loom. If you can do without the master switch set (in the console or the drivers door depending on model, if it has one at all in a car so old) and all the wiring is still in the doors you will get them going by running a + & - wire into each door and hooking them up in the right place on the switch. Without a wiring diagram or viewing what's there I can't be much more help. P.S. if your windows are a pain now and the winders are in good order replacing them with electric ones will only make it worse, my suggestion is check and replace if called for the felts/rubbers in the Baily channels (the guide slots the windows run in) and check their alignment and adjustment before you do anything (The lower part of the Baily channels in Toyota's are known for rusting out at the point where the lower and upper sections slot together in the door). If you can PM me for my e-mail and sort a copy of the electric window wiring diagram I will be able to tell what color the wires should be in each door for the hook up.

From your description the regulator in the alt is about to fail but read the rest and have a fiddle, I could be wrong. The older I get the more that seems to happen. As far as I know the fuse/breaker for the Mark 2 is load sensitive to make it blow not a bi metal one which means they don't go on & of but just stop going all together on one side, they run a left and right circuit with both a relay and a fuse for each side. Because it is affecting the whole system (indicated buy the dash lights also dimming, that circuit is independent from the main lights) would send me looking at things that can affect the whole system. Try a volt meter across the battery with the lights on and of checking how much it changes and fluctuates under load. Then do the same thing at the alt. (one probe on the main wire out and the other on the body of the alt). A small difference in the readings (less than 1 volt) between the battery and the ones from alt would mean the alt is the problem. A larger difference would mean the wiring is at fault, if this is the case check the earths for the headlights and the engine to body one also. Couple of other things to check is the relays and the fuses for the headlights (corrosion builds up over time causing problems) give the connections a clean up with some sand paper. From memory the LX-70 series run a vacuum pump on the back of the alt which has oil running through it and I have seen these leak forcing oil into the alt with some very strange effects. A load test of the alt could prove helpful as well. Start the car and turn the lights on full, then disconnect the earth side of the battery. The lights will dim a little and you will see a drop on the volt meter , 14volts is a normal reading within a volt or so and it should stay close to that with the battery disconnected, a big drop/dimming means the alt is getting worn out. Another easy check is to turn on the lights with the engine of, if it still does the dimming thing even when the engine is of its the wiring.

Bloodly wireless key board!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The wire color that is on both fast and slow is the power wire. Other wire on slow is the slow wire to the wiper motor, same for the fast one. Next Wiper motor. Grab battery, multi meter and the wiper motor. Again check for earth on the motor with the multi meter on ohms with one probe on a metal section of the wiper motor and the other probe on the wires at the plug. one should be a very low resistance. Most likley Black. Use that wire as the neg (- or earth) to the battery. Conect the remaining 3 wires one at a time to the + (positive) on the batery. One will make the wiper go slow, one fast and the last will make it go for a very short time then stop or it will do nothing. Slow goes to slow on the switch (pink I think). Fast goes to fast on the switch (green I think). The other one is the return function and goes to + switched (power when the ignition is on, white?) Sorry I took so long, missed the last few posts while in the Naki with the olds.

Wipers. Crab a battery, multi meter, the wiper motor and the switch. Start with the switch. Set the multi meter to ohms, (funny looking upside down u thing) Set the switch to slow. Check which two wires are showing a very low resistance and note the colors. Set the switch to high. Check which two wires are showing a very low resistance and note the colors.

All the normal stuff will work. Increased Compression by Shaving the head $40 + gaskets, aim for around 9.8 to 10 Compression ratio for carb. Reground cam with increased duration and lift $150ish + gaskets, a new cam chain and adjuster would be a good idea. oversized exhaust and headers. About $300 depending on brands and availability. Better carburation, Cortina 32/36 Weber would be a good option and adapers are available, $50ish second hand + jetting + $45 for an adapter. if you need a manual choke the Escort version of the same carb from the 1600 Sport would be the one. Stay away from the 36/36 from the V6 as both barrels open at the same time making them much harder to tune. Keep the cam mods in line with the factory redline when you do the cam or a set of double valve springs and a bottom end balance will be needed. Aim for a 40 to 50% increase to maintain reliability. Cams with duration over 260deg will give you that nice lumpy idle but can have a very negitive effect on bottom end power. Lighten the flywheel, it will improve how responsive the engine is, again be carefull how far you go as it can have negitive effects in the way power is delivered $100ish. Bumping the comprestion may require a hone and rering to avoid a smoking engine afterwards. Do a wet and dry compression test before you do much, there is no point doing a heap of mods on an almost dead engine. Back when I was a young chap about 3 decades ago it was common to see the early Coronas & HiLuxs that had these engines with aftermarket bits from the states on them, some if these may still be floating around, one that jumps to mind was a twin side draft inlet set up to use a pair of SU's from a MGB. Good luck

1GGE has no knock sensors but the mounting points are there (2 needed in the block under he inlet), 1GGTE and 1GGZE do. 1GGE +T will struggle to run well with a stock 1GGTE ECU and you will need to run the knock sensors, compression will cause the ign to retard to far it will run flat and fail to produce much more power than the 1GGE did stock even with an over sized intercooler. best bet will be to install a set of 1GGTE or 1GGZE pistons and rods, rest of the engine uses very similar parts other than the head gasket. 1GGE gasket WILL NOT TAKE BOOST they just blow and yes I have tried this in a GA60 Celica I owned yeas ago. Still have a few bits for a gen 2 1GGTE floating around (engine loom, complete inlet manifold, injectors, TPS, knock sensors, reproduction steel carbon head gasket) and I think "SAM" has a set of pistons he got off me with a 1GGZE I sold him. Good luck. If you are running an early 1GGE the recirc system may not be compatible with the later stuff. don't forget the fuel pump and a larger radiator might be required to.

Don't limit your connection search to the earth side, check the main battery lead to the starter as well (can get oil contamination and or corrosion at the crimps) and try fitting relays to the coil and starter. Relays sorted all sorts of similar issues on my old Toyota and it was a pretty cheap fix. About $50 + some crimp on fittings.

When I did mine a huge amount of $ was spent in development and head work. What we found was the total flat top pistons hurt the hp more than small valves did. A shallow elliptical bowl with the deepest point towards the spark plug side in the top of the piston with the head shaved to get the compression right improved output way more than the big valves did. Sort of a wedge / hemi combo when the head is done as well. We even offset bored the valve guide holes to get as big as possible valves in and I have seen some that plugged them and re-bored them to create an angled valve to get straighter ports. The shape and shaft size of the valves can make a difference to. I used some that where almost flat on the port side and had a tapered shaft. Frigin expensive little suckers but made an extra 5 hp with just that mod. True race motors also use a very narrow valve seat that is unsuitable for a road engine and that helps output as well. Valve grinds required about twice a season. Reductions in the piston and con rod weight by using forged bits also saw some surprising increases in hp. Most of the work I did was in the combustion chamber once the head had the flow required in an attempt to get a clean fast burn throughout the chamber, that's something that takes time and money, about 10 sets of pistons and 20 heads where consumed to achieve the wanted results and a dedicated team behind you.

20 years ago I was getting 160hp ATW with an A3 11-1 and twin 45's on Av Gas from a 1600. Had a shit load of other goodies in there to but that's for reliability not more hp. Surly some one must have reached 200ATW with a 8 valve NA stroker combo. Does a 50hp shot of NOS count or is that cheating? LOL.

Carbies or EFI? The use of "48mm throttle bodies" could indicate ether, approximate compression ratio you expect will help to. Tuned headers, Inlet? Other head mods? 10-1, headers, flow work, carb around 170hp ATW. 11-1, headers, flow work, EFI around 190hp ATW. More with a good combo assuming pump gas is used? Please correct me if I'm wrong. Will be one angry engine and you will be getting very close to the limits of the block, keep up the good work. I do have a couple of comments which you might want to look into. Not sure the L20 crank will be up to the 9500RPM the 272 will allow. I hope those "Flat top pistons" aren't 1300 ones. They will fly apart, Forged will be needed. You will need to spend up large on flow work to get enough for the increased demands this combo will create, could be time to think Lotus head. With that much lift you are going to punish the valve train big time and a bit more than pocketing the pistons may be required. I think you will also have to recess the valve springs to let the valve open that far not mentioning retainers, followers, push rods etc none of which will live much past 7K if stock. An oil cooler will be needed and dry sump could be an option to maintain reliability at this level of tune. Don't expect it to last very long, you will be lucky to get a season of racing. A3, A4, 254 or 262 might be a better option if you plan to use such an animal on the street, the 272 is a very big cam and will have nothing under 4K on the rev counter and I do mean nothing. It's not called the "Ultimate" for no reason.

TT132 draglink measurements. Long center to center = 585mm, Box end taper small side = 12.5mm, floating end = 12.5mm. Tie rod center to center = 488mm, drivers side = 12.5, passengers side = 12.5mm. Inner tie rod thread position 100mm to 150mm from taper center with 14x1.5mm thread and 12.5mm small end taper. Left and Right threads available. Outer tie rod thread position 40mm to 85mm from taper center with 14x1.5mm thread and 12.5mm small end taper. Left and Right threads available. Have included the rod end sizes as well just in case they might fit the MS51 draglink and tie rod assembly. They are available new. You might be able to run corona inner and crown outer rod end? Drop arm taper size will dictate which link will work I suppose. I know this sounds really stupid but a lot of the GM product use 1/2" (12.4mm) and 9/16" (14mm) tapers on their rod ends. A link out of an old Holden might work to. HR would be very close to the same track and uses a very similar suspension and steering design to the Crown. The early Crown front end was an almost exact copy of the 1950's and 60's compact Chevs. The front shocks are in fact the same numbers in most after market catalogs, rears to for that matter. I used HQ ones in my RT87. Worth a look?

HiLux or Corona/Carina Wagon KT/KA147? Early Corona up to the 130 series or Cressida 50 60 series? All worth waving a tape measure at. Have a 130 Corona one here if you would like the measurements?

Man I love these old Crown coupes. Wow those carbs are a thing of beauty. Re your bump steer issue. Use the MS51 center link (it matches the existing inner LCA bolt points) but everything else MS65. It will put all the geometry back right. It worked on my Anglia when I did a 315 disc conversion. Allowed me to redrill the crossmember to get the caster right then added the 315 center link to get the two sets of centers to match. End result no bump steer.