slipsittin

MMM maybe I might get mine done in auckland again too. Peter at TRT is a top guy but so busy doing bigger stuff hes hard to get smaller stuff done. Its alright if you can leave it with him cause he will do a top job (they know how to charge for it also). I have heard the guy at ATL is a good bugger though and his welding and finish on the shafts are up there with the best. But the driveshafts breaking in the middle are something I have heard about before and thats why I asked. Corey

Have you had much done by ATL?? I have seen some poor workmanship from there. Not on my own car, but thats why I ask. Its to easy for someone to blame a place and give them a bad rep. Car looks rad man. If you have any guard tyre clearance problems let me know and I will come over with the Guard roller and help sort it. I did FLAWLES's ones and he seemed pretty happy with the result. Corey

Is it possible to go one piece Jase?? It's a personal opinion but I have had a lot of 2 piece ones fail Corey

vvega had both theory and practical to back it up DICK just as do I. It has been done but to do it to this engine will snap the valves as the head of the valve will snap off with the extra shutting force. It sounds like you need to know more about particular things instead of missleading people and costing them money and time by not giving them all the information. Corey

If the theory doesn't work , then it's wrong. With a turbo motor, the average pressure in the intake manifold is very close to the average pressure in the exhaust manifold, therefore it will act in a very similar way to a N/A motor cam wise (pressure differential). Steve This is going to be another arguement but the exhaut gas temperature kills the pressures being the same due to the expansion of the burnt gases trying to escape alot faster than the cold gases on the intake are trying to get in. This is why the trim on a turbo is more important to get right than the compressor side when going for bigger revs. Corey

This will snap his valves Steve, they aren't the strongest material as far as british cars are concerned. Also if the spring tension is unknown or destoy the cam and lifters also. Its a good practice to do this if you can get the spring tension checked with the washers all being the same size and as Steve said not coil binding. The point is with the increase in valve spring pressure, it seats the valve tighter (increases seat pressure as Steve says correctly) and therefore holds the valve shut tighter at compression and shuts them faster during the overlap increasing the engines efficiency. Corey

+1 for bike carbs eg: Side draughts on heavily modified 4k i built 10 years ago 100hp at flywheel and reved hard to 8500rpm leathal in the wet... Bike carbs 135hp and reved to 11000rpm in a split second and was leathal in the dry and rediculous in the wet (no other modifications or adjustments made). I had the flat slide type with butterflies also. I was told the flat slide ones are better. Corey

Hey Chris its not possible to link them together as one opens the opposite way without using inderpendent cables. I will look in my Webber book to see which way is best to have them mounted as if one is mounted the opposite way it will lean out the cylinders it is feeding when cornering one way and flood the other (please note: not fun having 2 cylinders of a 4 cylinder trying to rev higher than the others then flooding and bending conrods.) we had a similar set up on an escort at Pukekohe years ago and destroyed a 1500 big time. Corey

+1

Thats quite a fast road cam Donna. That should be pretty torquey on the mid range also. Corey

Take them to a reconditioner and get them profiled to see if they are different from standard or just have different numbers, and if they are ground are they ok or poked. There is no point in putting in something thats more fucked than the thing you pull out for the time and effort involved to do the job. Corey

I thought Autometer bosted about glycerine filled guages a while back being their thing??? Maybe I was watching the cooking chanel Its sticky shit I know that much when one breaks. Corey

Yeah I know but it isn't the cams fault its the "I need more fuel to carry on or I'm just going to suck air and piss you off" in front of your mates deal We don't want to put in stuff that will cause the smart arse remarks and get the topic locked do we. Did you check out the Valiant I put up in the trademe auctions Mackaz? Corey

The fuel pump couldn't keep up with the cam? Get some sleep man your rambling Corey

You can't disconnect the accerator pump!! It smoothes the engine through the cross over between the idle jets and the main jets. If removed it will make your problem worse. Corey

Rally style cams are not turbo friendly as Brock-Lee said from my experience due to the overlap and valve lift being to big when force feeding the air you need less of both. Also I would spin the gear and drill a series of holes and tap them or machine an eccentric dowel like we used to fit to all the older engines when we were to cheap to buy or make adjustable wheels. We used to have all the engines we built marked the same way with number punches to easily change it. eg: A was advanced, B was retarded, C was centre lined etc. The window idea is a bloody good one also. It would be better if you could make the cover 2 piece. A guy used to do that for the crossflows and Toyotas we built. Corey

I think that covered Torana/Sunbird also didn't it? Corey

It sounds like you are going down the right track. Without burning your eyebrows off take off the aircleaner top and look down the carb while its running, blip open the throttle ( quickly open it and shut it again) and look at the accelerator pump nozzle (where the fuel squirts out). If you notice the fuel squirts out before or after the miss try tensioning or untensioning the pump spring till you get it better. With overhauling the carb you might find it is getting a bigger shot of fuel then it was before. Corey

Instead of turbo why not do compounding superchargers? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 476667.htm Could be out of control

Cheers man I didn't get a good scope through it when I first posted it. Anymore please say. Corey

Yours is electronic (i.e. no points) isn't it? They are shit hot like they are mate. No need to upgrade. I use one on my Ford race car but with the vacuum advance removed I didn't know the model T was coming back UJ, Good to see Ford have left the chassis development in good hands this time Corey

You may have sorted your problem if the diaphram is letting it creep back.this will cause it to prematurely retard the timing. Grab another dizzy and check the advance unit then if it seems to hold swap the units. Corey You got a minter by the looks though.

you could try teeing into your distributor line to see if the vacume advance/retard has a blown diaphram on either side. That would also give symptoms like these. Lastly have you tried another set of leads and plugs (if you have a spare engine) Corey

On trademe there is a guy who makes them to your requirements, but you could ask on here cause there are some bloody talented machinists on here that may be able to help. Your centre hole maybe an issue I'm not sure. Corey

I would try adaptor plates or redrilling the hubs to suit the stud pattern you want. It's easier to buy the wheels then redrill too