brocky41

Lower the better - spesh when diesel - if your runnung smaller tyres (which you will because slam) a 3.5 / 7 will help to bring the revs down and also bring speedo down (for example if doing 100kph on GPS, speedo would say 80. iin this example you would be travel 80kms on the odo to 100kms actually travelled, meaning less diesels kms to buy). I know its cheating but for exactly the same wagon as a petrol, you pay $100 roughly less in your rego, Y? you ask, because diesel and thats shit because you pay for kms on top of that. So by running the speedo slower you still have a speedo that works but you make the difference in rego $$ back. Sorry to ramble - i did this in my r30 wagon and ran large tyres also - but i know yuoll want the small tyre look lol

Should swap over no probs. Are the coil overs welded to the original type strut or do they look like S13 coilovers etc

Twin derbys?? Then give Pete carbs lol This project is full of much awesomeness

Ive heard/ seen what running over 15psi does to these - snaps the old crank, which i though was odd as guys use the lD28 crank in L petrols to help get up to L31. But then realised diesel and the explosion rather than ignition from a petrol must be a bit harder on the crank. Ive also heard from alot of guys is to run the thing with a hairdryer (turbo) strapped to it and run around 8psi without touching the pump. Will run all day ery day boosting away. I like yowzers last post, i too was on the thought of voldo more fuel and air until i got talking to guys that have played with these for years, i think it eventually needs more fuel with higher boost but from non turbo to first time turbo on, you should be fine. I think the best thing to do is get a diesel turbo of like a Bounty, Bighorn, 1kzte etc that has similar capacity as they boost up alot earlier than the L20et turbo most run. Another point is dont try to mod up an L20ET exhaust manifold to suit - not only are the stud holes wrong the port matching is way off, and they usually fry up number 6 due to heat build up. J-Pipe is the word on the standard manifold . Im building one for the 240C wagon atm. Sorry if waffling / already knew this stuff, hope its of some help.

Sorry is 4.1 atm

I do have one for sale if u so want

Ca43 is an interesting diff code, normally would be he or hf43 etc. If it turns out it's h190 I have a 4.1 but you'll probably want a 3.9 or 3.7. I'll do a bit of hunting for you

Such a sweet wagon, wish my 230 was on the road by now. You've got a solid entry to wagoneers me thinks. Also find out what ratio the diff is, chassis plate should tell, you may need to drop ratio if you're "small tiring" her, to keep your revs and diesel kms down.

I think you'll find BNT should do the headlights too

looking good dude - wheels awesome - sorry i cant help with the Centre console parts atm.

Just thought id start a thread on dads new ride - Still has his KE25 and is now looking for a Tidy KE35 as well. Wants the complete set he reckons lol Some of you Hawkes Boes might have seen it at the Meanee Swap meet in the car park. Ill try get him to go to one of your meet ups in HB next time one comes up. Heres some Pics, i think shes pretty tidy - hes having some of the interior redone at the moment. The mags are for his KE25 (running sarlet front hubs etc) and he wants some minilights for this - 14x7 and a little bit of low (like at least 50mm lol) Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Hi guys, Dereged car with cert - is cert still valid if re vinning and no more mods are done etc

You know you need a V4 Pete - Cool project by the way. Ill let you know when we need to carve a track into the paddock out back lol

Sounds like your slave cylinder is either the short one of the two you can get or you need a longer rod, easy enough to makeup. You'll love the better drivability and economy with the manual conversion. Just remembered also the release bearing carrier may be wrong (ie short and long) which changes the engagement point of the fork. Alot of a series guys have this issue

Shot yea, do it Greg

the last 260c screen I took out just used a heat gun to heat up the sealant - its not as good as the new screen sealants are and just hold a small amount of pressure against it - feet etc like you would when removing a rubbered one. only took me and another person about 15 minutes to remove both screens

Just fixed up the thread a little bit - hope to have a few more updates soon.

WOW i havnt updated this in a long time since FEB 2009 whooppps - will have to catch the thread up when i can but anyway..... Well i got a few things done today and one was slotting the FJ20et in the space where the CA18 was. Stocked it actualy fits in the hole as they just dont in a 1200. Looks to clear all the major stuff although its sitting on the crosmember so will need some scolloping (mmmm scollops) Clears up some much needed room in the shed now too lol - ive been going through all my stuff and there is lots to get rid of - parts for cars i dont even own now lol. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/24645-brocky41s-1978-datsun-120y-aka-tufdat/?hl=tufdat

POST UPDATE FROM NZDATSUN 25 APRIL 2012 Well after a mammoth weekend on the Y, i think shes ready for the Southern Cruise Started on Thursday night prepping the new gearbox with the Genuine seals and Gasket from Scott @ Cockram Nissan. Got all that sorted then realised the Clutch was gone. Took all the parts off including the flywheel in the hope someone could do something on a Friday for me Rang Tony @ Clutch Systems in town said to send it round and he would sort it. I sent it on a one hour courier from work and no shit, within 2 hours Tony rang and said it was all done - Flywheel grind aswell. Went in at lunch time and he had a standard type plate, usually for a diesel engine and a Heavy Duty pressure plate with release bearing already pressed onto the carrier ready to go. What a GC, he didnt charge me for the Flywheel grind or the pressing of the release bearing either - highly recommend them for your clutch stuff, Tony really knows his stuff. Was super stoked so got the clutch fork etc back into the box on Friday night and also took the front struts out. Saturday arvo - had to re lower the engine down by unbolting the crossmember to get the box to go back in and to reach the bolts - bolted the flywheel and clutch in with the help of john and his torque wrench - had the box up on jack under the car - getting dark by now - couldnt get the dam thing to line up to get in the hole, it was jamming on the splines. Little did i know, thrashing around with the box that the jack had slipped out from under it and when i went to take a rest the box slipped out out and landed on me - the little out piece in about the middle of the box got me square in the chest. I was already out of energy in the arms (not that super fit aye) and i couldn't move it of me. Luckily when i yelled out John and Lisa came running out (so did Millie the cat) and i crawled out from under it. Not the nicest of feelings getting crushed - wont be doing that in a hurry as its still pretty sore. John and I trucked on and had the bottom pieces removed from the new front shocks (forgot Brendan had the originals machined to suit as they have a stupid spacer on the bottom and you cant screw them into the strut tube. And also got the new wheel bearings fitted to the new discs (1 piece hub and rotor) So that was the end of Saturday - but i still had alot to get done. Sunday - up bright and early, all be it very sore - i got the front shocks fitted to the struts with the new discs and pads. When fitting back to car realized i had had the struts round the wrong way this whole time - and a quick Google search revealed the calipers go on the back of the disc not the front (thanks R31 House). Swapped all that shizz round got it all bolted in. New rear shocks bolted up aswell (thanks John -SKDMRX- for modding those too, what a GC). Time to have another go at the Gearbox - using different point with the jack it went up at the correct angle and 'bobs your uncle' straight in. Got everything else like the cross-members and drive-shaft back in - remade the manifold flange gasket (third time lucky i hope) Went to bleed the clutch up and the dam thing wouldnt (i know your frustration datochriswagon, and after alot of cursing and a thrown hammer at a rusty 260c guard it finally started to bleed up and then proceeded to self bleed the rest of its travel : - finally fired her up at about 5pm. Took for a test drive - Gearbox quiet - tick No Exhaust leaks - tick Brakes bedded in and all ok - tick Suspension tight (stiff as in the back now) - tick Hooray, finally got it all sorted - there's a few other things to do when i get back from the Southern Cruise like the diff and drive shaft joint but ran out of time to get it done. Hopefully everything holds together on the cruise - i don't want to do another gearbox for a while - definitely widening the tunnel as much as pos on the 1200 to make removal etc easy. The left over boxes - have been collecting this over the last year. Did the wheel alignment tonight - just needs a clean (got a few cobwebs to blow out literally). John and i have had a clean up in the shed too

POST FROM NZDATSUN 04 September 2011 So the Y spat the dummy at the supermarket - died just going into a park - had to get towed by "Broke" home with the 620 using a small tie down which snapped once (terribly embarrassing in traffic) Blew a 2nd VL commy (2nd hand) fuel pump so had to fit up the surge tank iv had for ages. Got a new External Pump and Lift pump from work - all Airtek items - The Vl one is the one listed for Vectras and some Alfa's too. Decided to filter the fuel from the tank, then into the lift pump, up to fill the Surge tank. I have then mounted a Subaru filter (that i had the bracket for of the WRX STI i wrecked out) to filter the fuel from the surge before the External pump. This will hopefully help keep the pumps in good shape for alot longer. (still running a filter before the engine so TRIPLE FILTERS - what does it mean!!) Wired it all up and took it for a strop - has never run better. And also both pumps are very quiet - normally the lift/facet pumps are noisy but these are not - cant here running when car is idling even without back seat. heres the pics

POST FROM NZDATSUN FEB 04 2011 Havent updated for a while - got a few pics after another failed WOF (man this thing just dont go straight through) ive got some work to do. Rust (again) small patch inner rear sill and firewall (again) should be easy fix this time Indicator light covered by Tacho - (wiring RH light to LH switch so dont have to move Tacho Drag link Ball Joints Exhaust - Wof man said its only just over what it came out factory with a in his eye - 1x resonator will fix. Tyres - Got 35,000-40,000 kms out of the AD07 Yokos - Now have 195/50r15 Bridgestone RE11's (thanks Chris) - time for EXTREME GRIP. Drag link out Bottom arms and ball joints off - will give everthing a new lick of paint before going back in. All the new bits ive been collecting - Ball Joints - wide option - which this al :thumbsup: ready had. Inner tie rods - may as well do these as the outers were replaced not that long ago Drag Link - rebuilt by HBI in Sockburn - 3 day turnaround - and they are tapped. Front springs are getting another coil off to stop the shock being on max extended length all time - will slightly lower the front to :thumbsup: and have got new bearings to use in the tophats as the old ones were poked and missing balls etc. Am also putting in strut cusions or "bumpstops" as is recomended factory for R31 shocks and will help keep the dirt etc out (they come with rubber cover) and extend shock life.

POST FROM NZDATSUN 25 JULY 2010 - UPDATE We went for a drive out over the port hills yesterday and got a few pics These ones are my Fav

So the WOF ran out and i smashed a rear taillight so yet again time to get some work done on this thing. Its so cheap to run - but with high kms it works out about the same as a petrol, cos i have to keep replacing stuff but hey its rare and it gets a few looks lol so out with the old Uploaded with ImageShack.us and have brought some new (over the last 2 months)... Lower Control Arms (with ball joints)- actually loose in the mount they were so worn - should have been picked up at last warrant naughty VINZ Outer Tie Rod Ends ($5+each at appco) Castor rod bushes - these were so haddit the rod had worn right through the steel sleeve Sway bar mount bushes Swaybar Link Rod bushes and washers Driveshaft Centre Bearing Just got to wait on the new Rotors and pads aswell as Front Wheel Bearings. Ive so far done one tie rod end and bolted up the new Arms - Just got the new ball joint splitter today as the fork was hopeless. I also parted out a Hatch wagon - that was originally L20et but had had a diesel in it. Scored all the interior which is the red seat you can see in the first pic

POST FROM NZDATSUN - 22nd JUNE 2010 Well as you guys probably all know this thing blew a water line (heater) on the back of the engine after two weeks of being here. just thought id update you a bit. Engine and box are out - thought it would be a good time to hit the leaking sump, front and rear main seals and to change all the water hoses etc so i don't run into the same problem. Also the box was on the way out so throwing the spare in which is hopefully better. Also replacing exhaust gaskets as they let go on the big trip down too. :baseballbat: :baseballbat: Dan also came round and rid the engine of all "not necessary" water hoses, pipes and vacuum lines. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: Front struts have been out, again, and I've spruced them up with a lick of paint etc. :thumbsup: Also decided to fix the rust in the firewall which came about due to the "panelshop" replacing the rust with "liquid steel" instead of REAL steel. And filling up the holes in the floor from cutting the gearstick hole to big.

Man that's sweet the gold on mustard looks awesome - well done