KKtrips

No you don't semeny trees like that...

Yeah I could go LS1 but then I need to buy all those little things like brackets and mounts again which ain't cheap. Not to mention recert and the cost of buying and carbying an LS

Was waiting for that. Took longer than I though to be honest. Lol

Balls deep in his missus no doubt. Haha

Because rowing through gears > slushbox... And I can pretend I'm this guy.

The motor I have is a bit of an oil burner - it does the job adequately so no real reason to swap it - however see below for a bit more explanation. It's a 304 - the late model version of the 308 - yup staying carby. Hemi dreams will be saved for my 55 gasser wags one day... The motor I have picked up in particular is a VT Commodore 304 that's the last of the aussie built V8's. I got it now cos it's a hard to find motor cos only the first series 1 VT's had the 304, after that they went to the LS1. The VT is different from every other 304/308 because it is factory roller cam, 4 bolt mains and is already clearanced for 355 stroker crank. It's closest relative is the 304 Walkinshaw motor from the VL - but they are as rare as hens teeth and apparently 10K for a complete one. I've been told that the heads apparently flow 400hp from the factory. So if I really want to get carried away I could snap up a 355 stroker kit and chuck that in. But the line needs to be drawn somewhere. Who knows though I may end up putting this motor to the back of the shed while I save up for a stroker kit and monster Rawb cam - jam that in and then proceed to blow multiple gearboxes. Hahah.

Yes please loan sounds good if you prefer that - PM me account details and I'll pay for a courier to me. I will buy it if you have no use for it though.

Hah - not likely man - I'm still paying for it till mid July. Anyone driving down for my birthday that wants to bring it down for me? Haha (Geoff has offered to bring down for me but he is coming down in June and it won't be paid for by then)

Yes very interested...

Bought a lowish mileage one of these today. Going to buy a carby manifold and stick with good old analogue fuel and spark, The motor in particular that I have bought is a VT Commodore 304 that's the last of the aussie built V8's. I got it now cos it's a hard to find motor as only the first series 1 VT's had the 304, after that they went to the 350 LS1. The VT is different from every other 304/308 because it is factory roller cam, 4 bolt mains and is already clearanced for 355 stroker crank. It's closest relative is the 304 Walkinshaw motor from the VL - but they are as rare as hens teeth and apparently 10K for a complete one. I've been told that the heads apparently flow 400hp from the factory. So if I really want to get carried away I could snap up a 355 stroker kit and chuck that in. But the line needs to be drawn somewhere. Who knows though I may end up putting this motor to the back of the shed while I save up for a stroker kit and monster Rawb cam - jam that in and then proceed to blow multiple gearboxes. Hahah.

What night is this gunna be next weekend? I'm going to suggest Saturday?

Keen providing the weather ain't whack. I'm voting for somewhere we can have a roaring bonfire.

Get some brand new decent cast iron beauties complete for about US$700 a pair (same as what JB has) http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-152123/overview/ and a rebuild kit for $350 http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/fem-csmhp761-300/overview/

Choice. I knew the next time I'm going out of town will be your place for Gang Summit so knew it was in safe hands. I booked a room with old Bill for Friday and Saturday nights of Gang summit too.

The 304 block is basically the same externally as the 308 so anything that is 308 will fit the block. The heads are different, therefore the manifolds are different. I think I have a set of the HQ 308 mounts that bolt to the block - courtesy of Kamahl - you just need to buy the rubbers. Sump should be relatively easy to find - just make sure you get the oil pickup too. Note - spend the extra $100 and buy a rubber sump gasket (as opposed to $25 odd for the cork one) It should save yourself a whole lot of fucking around. If you don't want to go 304 then sell me the heads.

As my build thread was chocka with dead links I thought a clean-up was kinda necessary - got rid of 3 pages of waffle and reinstated some dead links. I now present to you the edited up highlights in chronological order. Discussion Thread - K-Trips 1982 VH Holden Commodore Wagon

You pay $600 for cert or has the price gone up as touted last year?

Seeing as you already have a hydraulic clutch pedal box then rather then fucking around fitting a cable type then use what you have and find a concentric clutch slave that will fit. I believe a lot of jokers use a Mondeo clutch slave as they quite versatile. Then you just need to cut holes in the bellhousing, one for the line in and also one for the bleed line out.

I have VN/VR finned V8 callipers and rotors. Not sure if they are any different to V6 callipers of the same era. They bolted straight onto my 4 cylinder struts and a 14"wheel would not fit on - not even close. Picture of my front brakes compared to the 4cyl originals.

Apparently, though I haven't tried it, fitting a booster and master from a VT Commo is a good improvement. They bolt on with only one brake line requiring a minor rebend by hand to fit. I shall be fitting one in this years off season I reckon.

They do a stuff called Neutra Rust there according to their website. http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/item.php?id=6435

Do you want Brunox in particular? You get a really good rust converter called Jenolite from most body shops but try Total Body Shop in the Hutt.

Tom and Neal are correct about the brake sizes under 14" and 15" wheels. I have the finned callipers under mine. HQ V8 brakes are completely different and dont even bother down that path. If you are resolute about running 14's then pesevere and find the correct v8 early Commodore brakes, even if you need to get them out of Aussie. I have non power steer in mine and the steering is not tooo bad. If I run the tyres at the recommended 38psi its light enough but I prefer 32psi so it is a little heavy in parking situations. I also run the 6 cylinder pedal and it works fine and is light enough to operate. I do have to run a few washers under the plastic adjuster at the bellhousing end but it works perfectly fine. I'll let you know in a few years time how it is once I've adjusted the clutch a few times and see if it runs out of adjustment. haha

Nope - but I had to when going from 4 to 6. Not sure what modifications would have been made to for an LD28 though - it may not even be a 202/308 x-member in your car Jon. I believe that early Commys did run 14" rims on the V8's too but I'm not sure if the brakes were any different to 6 cylinder. I expect they will be hard to find in NZ if they are different.

Make sure the diff is a wagon one. The shock mounts are different to a sedan. If you are running stock wheels then diff width wise it will be fine but if you are running a bit wider than stock then it will rub on the guards. Also if you run stock 14" wheels and want to run V8 brakes on the front then check they fit under your 14's. I have VP V8 front brakes (bolt onto stock struts) but they do not fit under stock VB/VC/VH 14" wheels. If you have any questions then I'm pretty confident I can help with most aspects - providing I can remember. haha.